i just put in a new box thinkin it would solve my problem of going full lock to lock but it didn't, and also it wants to go more passenger than driver (and yes i did centered the box before i made my drag link) so i'm thinkin that maybe if i put on a longer pitman arm that might solve that little problem i'm having ANY THOUGHTS ?

A longer pitman arm should not affect turns side-to-side.
if the box was centered, and pitman was installed correctly,
# of turns from center should be the same in each direction.
sorry for this question, but were the wheels pointed straight
ahead when you measured for link?

yep the wheels were straight and the PA is keyed so there is no mistake there, and i was also thinkin about shorting up my high steer arm?

can you post pics of setup?

Was the weight of the truck on the axle when you measured?
Is it lifted?
Is the steering wheel straight?
Need more info.

do it again, no matter how much you try the first time will inevitably wrong, i have gone through this a few time.

Is it factory gm style push-pull steering or crossover?
As previously posted...more info or pics needed.

Check to make sure your steering box bolts are tight, that the frame isn't cracked, and that the spring u bolts and bushings are all tight and not worn out or loose.

one or more of the above problems can cause the problems you are having.

Whats the length of the pitman arm(center of sector shaft to center of TRE)?
Whats the length of your high steer arm(center of kingpin/balljoint to center of TRE)?

Un-equal turning left to right is usually an alignment issue. Not turning steering stop to steering stop is usually a mis-match of length of pitman arm to steering arm.

what kind of lift etc. Alot of times if you have longer shackles in the front the play in the bushings will affect steering alot

You guys might just be too used to people doing things right the first time:flipoff2:
I've seen this exact same thing about 50 times. Happens when a guy puts on some lift springs he picked up for 20 bucks and doesn't have the rest of the kit with it.
Get a dropped pitman arm or new steering arm(the one on the axle,looks like a horseshoe,held down with three big bolts) that is raised up instead of the factory downward angle. Truth be told, i'm guilty of this same thing. ONCE.
but regardless of what everyone says, it has worked.

He has to use crossover with a SAS. The stock steering box, 2wd or 4wd won't let you use push pull.

I'll bet your issue is your pitman arm is indexed incorrectly.

How about a little more info on the truck? What axle is it? D44 or D60?

I changed from a front/back steering to crossover steering on my 90 Chevy pickup with no issues after centering the steering box.

i think i might have solved my problem the (no name) high steer arm i got only had one hole to hook up the drag link and i think it is to long so what i'm goin to do is drill another hole in it so it lines up with the stock tie rod location because it's bout an inch or so off from the tie rod i think but i'm goin to double check tomarow night when i go out to my shop

He has to use crossover with a SAS. The stock steering box, 2wd or 4wd won't let you use push pull.

I'll bet your issue is your pitman arm is indexed incorrectly.


X2, I don't think length of hi-steer arm would affect one
direction more than the other. Too long of an arm would
limit the range, but be equal, side-to-side.
( wouldn't it?? ) :confused:

do you have an aftermarket steering stabilizer? i had one on my old suburban it slipped some how while i was driving and stoped me from turning to the right exept for a few inches. just something to check out.

Are the steering stops on the knuckles hitting earlier on one side than the other?

while were on this topic, im doing a sas on my 94 Chevy with the problem of not hit lock to lock. does anyone know what's the longest pitman their is? meaning center of sector shaft to center of heim (heim in my case)? cause my high steer arm was made to long and I need a longer pitman arm to make up the difference. right now im using a dodge piman arm. Or any other ideas to help with my problem? thanks Kyle

p.s sorry to steal the tread

rather then start a new thread, ill bring this one back up. i did a sas on my 96 this weekend and the same problem with it not going to lock. i used a yj pitman arm and reamed it out to fit the 1 ton TRE. with the steering wheel at full lock im a good inch or inch and a half from the steering stops on the knuckles. i would also like to know what pitman arms are most common. if all else fails, ill make a shorter arm for the knuckle but that seems to me that it would be harder to steer. maybe not?

the jeep arm is shorter than stock = not enough stroke to lock 2 lock the knuckles.

i get thats the problem but what arm is the correct lenght, i read were a late 70s ford arm is around 7" but dont know if it will spline onto my gm box. any input?

yes they will, i have the van arm, but the splines are not clocked the same, the superlift 150 are will work if you have a taller lift.