synds9
08-14-2002, 10:01 PM
I'm THINKING about getting a 94-99 (?) Dodge Ram 1500 4x4shortbed. Can anyone tell me what front and rear axle comes on these vehicles, about the engine (i want the v8 of course), and is it leaf sprung or coiled up front? I'm moving soon and won't have the tools/funds/etc to be tinkering with my bronco all the time when I need it to take me to school and such. I need any information you can provide me with such as stock axle spline count.. detailed shit like that.. all of the weak points and strong points, what transfer case did it come with? is the 5 speed a nv4500? well thanks for the help. (dodge forum is rather inactive
:confused: )
Ramstein
08-14-2002, 11:08 PM
Originally posted by teknalee
I'm THINKING about getting a 94-99 (?) Dodge Ram 1500 4x4shortbed. Can anyone tell me what front and rear axle comes on these vehicles, about the engine (i want the v8 of course), and is it leaf sprung or coiled up front? I'm moving soon and won't have the tools/funds/etc to be tinkering with my bronco all the time when I need it to take me to school and such. I need any information you can provide me with such as stock axle spline count.. detailed shit like that.. all of the weak points and strong points, what transfer case did it come with? is the 5 speed a nv4500? well thanks for the help. (dodge forum is rather inactive
:confused: )
I had a 95 with 5.2 litter/5 speed. I now have a 98 5.9 litter/auto.
4x4 short bed 1500 Sport.
Front axle is a Dana 44
Rear axle is a Chrysler 9.25"
Engines are 5.2 liter and 5.9 liter. my 5.2 was a gutless gas pig even with the 5 speed manual. 5.9 is the only way to go.
Coils up front.
T-case is a NP231
Allthough its a solid axle front end, Its the weakest part of the truck. I broke a shaft and guess what? the whole front hub, rotor and caliper assembly fell off on the trip home (at highway speed). I didnt think it through when I pulled the stub axle for the trip home and later came to find that its a semi floater front end. WTF! Pulling the stub leaves only the bolt tabs on the caliper holding everything together.
I swapped in a 60.
the 9.25" rear end is a c-clip but I have yet to break a shaft and have no complaints with it.
The 231 is a fairly stout case once you swap out the output shaft and fixed yolk conversion. I got mine from JB Conversions.
All said, the truck has taken A LOT of abuse and its held up great (aside from the front end missha). 90k miles and still running strong. Ive replaced or modified just about every major component on the truck so if you get to that point, look me up and I can save you a few steps.
GRMhick
08-14-2002, 11:20 PM
Hey, ramstein, have you ever broken any steering parts? I always thought that was the weak link, i just snapped the allignment link in 2 on saturday in my 96. Wasent even pushing it to the point that i may put a dent in it. And do you have any clue what it would take to put a Ford dana 60 in the truck? I dont want to pay for a custom built dana 60 when mine breaks. And how exactally is it a semi floater? Could i leave the the stub shaft in it, and make it still work when i break?
BTW, my advice to you, is to buy a cummins ram, I regret going gas to this day, but i still love my truck. And also, i think the 89-93 cummins rams are the strongest.. i plan on buying one as a tow rig when my 96 gets to me.
Garrett
synds9
08-14-2002, 11:30 PM
hmm good points.. once again it's just a thought.. but yea the idea to go with the 1500 was it's size.. didn't kow the 5.9 came in the 1500.. thanks for the info... im starting to lean more towards to toughing it out and putting up with the EB though :D
Ramstein
08-14-2002, 11:57 PM
Originally posted by Hick
Hey, ramstein, have you ever broken any steering parts? I always thought that was the weak link, i just snapped the allignment link in 2 on saturday in my 96. Wasent even pushing it to the point that i may put a dent in it. And do you have any clue what it would take to put a Ford dana 60 in the truck? I dont want to pay for a custom built dana 60 when mine breaks. And how exactally is it a semi floater? Could i leave the the stub shaft in it, and make it still work when i break?
BTW, my advice to you, is to buy a cummins ram, I regret going gas to this day, but i still love my truck. And also, i think the 89-93 cummins rams are the strongest.. i plan on buying one as a tow rig when my 96 gets to me.
Garrett
I never had a problem with the steering parts but when I swapped out the front end, I soon there after went to a custom long travel 4 link set up with swayaway coilovers and a cross over hi steer type set up.
swapping in a ford 60 is gonna be too narrow (by about 4" if I remeber right) so custom is really the only way to go. at least retubing and longer shafts.
The problem is if you break a front shaft at the joint, you cant pull the long side and still drive without dumping out all your diff oil. Best bet is carry a spare. Or cut the ears of the stub and put it back in. I had to use a tie down strap to keep the long side in place so it didnt collide with the "spinning" hub.
GRMhick
08-15-2002, 12:12 AM
Go figure. What about putting in a dodge dana 60? I know f-350 knuckles bolt up from the ball joints out. Then i could keep the Cad i actually like. So how far off is a dodge dana 60 from bolting up to a 1/2 ton?
I have the 5.9L (only available in an auto) in my 2001. Its a gutless pig too. If you want to believe otherwise check out www.dodgetrucks.org They will straighten you out. (greatest engine ever if you read DTO BBS) My 9.25" I locked with a No-Slip, works nice. I have been working real hard to get some aftermarket axle shafts (for the Dana 44) but the availabilty is limited. The '99 and up recieved a front axle upgrade (still a Dana 44 but stronger parts) including twin piston brakes. The steeering still sucks, I replaced my tie-rod with a rockstomper rock rod. so far so good. Ball joints, drag links and TREs die all the time but the BR2500 front axle should virtually bolt in (8 lug wheels though)