How much did your setup cost? Post up pics of your setup too if you have them.

Does anyone know which forklifts (make & model) have 4 port orbital valves with a 7.5 CI rating? I don't have $400 for a new one, so I need to find a used one that will work with my stock pump and 2.5x8 cylinder. :grinpimp:

I have an eaton char-lynn valve and the numbers on the sticker say
C/N:211-1010-002
S/N:070926ABU0058
P/N:211-1010-002
The Top where The Lines Go - RP LT 7F14
The Bottom Says - 12741 WF 11
I hope this helps

-1 KRC Al pump with an E flow valve $200
-1 PSC unmodded P-pump $130
-Homebrew 2gal reservoir with leftover remote filter mount and weld in NPT and JIC bungs and a vented cap $30
-Orbital from POS, 7.6cu/in/rev, load reaction, short steering shaft, mounting plate, anti-kickback valve $500
-2-1/2" x 8" DE ram with a 1-1/2" shaft $190
-Clevices from POS $80
-4 QA1 XM 3/4x3/4 rod ends $100
-3ft of 1-3/8" .375 wall DOM $40
-Twin pump mounting plate shot on a CNC plas $75
-Derale cooler with fan (ebay, NIB) $75
-Hose, field service fittings, unions, pushlok fittings, crimp fittings, sight tube tubing, etc. $400

It's all rough and as I recall, still alot. If I didn't love my steering so much now I'd probably shoot myself in the foot.

Total: $1820 :(

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-26.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link06-22.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c299/bggrnchevy/Album%202/Link05-7.jpg

I built the steering on this ranger:
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x100/bluetoy4x4/Tellico/nickspics029.jpg

Saginaw "hamcan res" pump. (for Econoline van) $50
2x8 TSC ram $70
2 wire hose and field service fittings $100
Big Summit racing cooler $40
Used Danfoss 6.0in^3/rev valve $150
Short column, valve mount, 2 3/4x3/4 rod ends, ps pump fitting to #6JIC from POS. $125
DOM for tierod and 3/4 steel for ram mount $25

Right at $600. Works awesome. Drives pretty good on the street too:flipoff2:

I bought my used Char-Lynn orbital valve from a member on here for $150
I got my 2X8 Ram from tractor supply for $70
Had my hoses made for around $65
I Am using my stock pump with no cooler. I made the tabs and mounts out of scrap iron that I had lying around. Im running this set-up on my K5 with detriot locked rockwells, and 49" v-treads and it works great. Sorry, no pics.........

Used Char-lynn orbital off of Ebay (9.7 cu in) - $115 Here is the valve...http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008120716293430&item=9-1882&catname=hydraulic
2.5" X 8" ram, hoses, and fittings from Surplus Center - $130
Rebuilt P-pump (drilled out the high pressure fitting) - $40ish
1.5" OD X 0.25" wall DOM - $35
1 ton TREs (borrowed a buddy's reamer for the knuckles)- $40
Tubing adapters - $22
Tabs (had the machine shop drill the 1" holes, but I cut them out)- $15
Had O'Reilly's crimp on a new fitting on my stock high pressure hose - $5
Stop for ram from Tractor Supply - $8
Made my own orbital mount out of some scrap - freebie
Got a forklift column for free. Welded the input from my old steering box to it so it would accept my steering shaft. - freebie

That's $410 for everything listed. I still need to add a bigger reservoir, filter, and cooler down the road. I have about 3.5 turns lock to lock. I can turn 39.5" Iroks on dry pavement, welded spiders, hubs locked in, with one finger. Here are some pics...

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i38/mustanger302/1%20Ton%20Swap/HPIM0710.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i38/mustanger302/1%20Ton%20Swap/HPIM0711.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i38/mustanger302/Harlan%20November%202008/n1048655879_30222764_632.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i38/mustanger302/Harlan%20November%202008/n1048655879_30222766_1384.jpg

I got my valve from a hyster h 50 forklift..There is a yard in ga by the atlanta motor speedway in clayton county that sells em for 100 cash..

Rough cost was
valve $100
-6 female to female swivel fittings X4 $25
Hydro hoses and fittings from northern tool $110
Return line filter housing and filter $20
Home brew tank $13 (new filler cap, used old npt unions for fittings welded to the tank. Made tank from scrap angle iron and 4" wide flat stock 1/8 thick.
2" 8" cylinder from TSC $75
Home brew mounts for cylinder from 1" thick ar300 plate steel and 2x3 tubing $free

Works great and never has overheated fluid..Ive driven it on the street and in heavy NYC traffic through midtown at rush hour and back from queens to brooklyn for a week.

I later built a new tie rod from 2 1/2" .250 wall hrew tubing.I used solid steel shaft from a industrial conveyor that we had lying around at work in the ends.I drilled the holes to tap in the ends of the stock tie rod offset a little to the edge..tapped in the 2" tie rod stubs so i could reuse the stock tie rods..I cant find a pic but it works like a champ.I bent the old one hitting a rock pretty hard on a hillclimb.

My next upgrade when i swap in the 60 is to get a double ended ram. sorry its a dodge in the chevy forum.

one more

second pic you can see the big fat tie rod a little..

Good thread. Before I went to full hydro, my steering was always breaking. I used cheap hydro assist rams that would bind and sloppy saginaw boxes that would constantly break ears. I spent dozens of hours researching full hydro and decided I wanted to save up for something that actually works. That is not to say that homebrew systems can't work well- I just don't have connections to forklift and tractor parts here locally. So I ended up using mostly "brand name" components, because when I tried to piece each part of it together, it ended up being more expensive. I searched and searched and it seems like unless you know somebody, it's harder to buy the field-serviceable 90 degree fittings cheaper than PSC sells them. I built my system with trail repair in mind, which added to the costs of hoses, fittings, and I now also carry an entire spare pump.

If I had to do it again, I would spend the time to locate an orbital dealer to find a better price on a steering valve. I did go through a PSC dealer on this board that saved me about 15% off the retail costs that are posted on the PSC items below. Here are the rough costs of the parts.

PSC 7.5 c.i. orbital- $330
Steering column and orbital bracket- $70
Field serviceable single wire hose and fittings- $100 from PSC
2.5" 8" throw PSC cylinder with mounting hardware- $300ish
"BIG" clevis kit- $100 from PSC
Tie rod and heim kit with misalignment spacers- $100 from PSC
High steer arms with chromoly stud kit- $186 from KOZ offroad
Appleton reservoir from Station- $155
P.O.S. TC pump from Station- $235
Spare Summit TC pump with AN fittings- $170
28" hg 3/4" ID Suction line- $10 from Discount hydraulic hose
~15 feet of spare double wire hose- $20 from Discount hydraulic hose
-10 AN female thread to 3/4" barb instant hose fittings- $8 from Clearwater Hydraulics in Idaho
Amsoil Synthetic Tractor Transmission Fluid- $8/quart from 4x4oil

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/atlzj/Jeep/cylinder2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/atlzj/Harlan%20Thanksgiving/CamLD3.jpg

I know it's a Ford axle but the rear is Chevy, does that count? :D The system is probably the best offroad steering I have ever driven. Spooled with drive flanges, I can turn 40" LTBs on pavement at idle with my pinky, and at speed there is no lag or wandering. The only problem I've had was small issue with my p/s pump, which Station was very helpful with. I know you are looking for cheap, so maybe this doesn't help you. But take a good look at Seanzy's setup especially. It likes to spit clevis pins, but otherwise works well.

Mine is the homemade jobber and it works great. I got my orbital valve off of a old Gleaner G combine. Any of the old combines will have this style valve. I got my brother one off of a old new holand combine and it was identical. It gave me about 3 1/2 turns lock to lock. I have more $ in the hoses than any thing else. I got my cylinder from Atwoods and use my stock GM pump. I am turning 38.5x15x16.5 boggers on a welded Dana 60 and it works great. Before I went hydro I could barley turn my wheeles with it be welded. Best mod I have ever done and probably have about $200 total in it.

Rockstopmer Ram etc.: 450$
Orbital valve etc.: 350$
Heim Joints: 70$

Works beautifully and runs down the road great...

It likes to spit clevis pins...

Touche old chap. You gotta be more "Pacific" though...It likes to spit out hitch pins.:flipoff2:

just going off the top of my head....

orbital from local guy - $40
modified stock PS pump via redneck ram website - $free
2" x 10" ram, surpluscenter.com - $80
lines, surpluscenter.com - $32
"steering column" surpluscenter.com - $40 (they've gone up since then)
fittings, surpluscenter.com & summitracing.com - $25
ATF - $5
i made the orbital and ram mounts myself - $free

basically... just over $200 for everything.

http://www.jaxracing.com/chris/s10build/mini_dsc02199_173.jpg

http://www.jaxracing.com/chris/s10build/mini-DSC02291.JPG

i'm doing a new truck and it looks like i'm going to come in around $160, but i traded a transmission with a cracked case for the orbital & steering column... so however you want to count that.

this is a good thread, im hoping to put full hydro on my jeep this summer, might not happen depends on how much money i am able to make this summer.

http://www.myjeepsite.com/file/pic/gallery/2226.jpg
http://www.myjeepsite.com/file/pic/gallery/2227.jpg
http://www.myjeepsite.com/file/pic/gallery/2228.jpg
http://www.myjeepsite.com/file/pic/gallery/2229.jpg

$700 system

PSC 9.5 CI vavle
2.5x8 Surplus center Eaton ram
PSC hose kit
PSC mount
PSC colum (3/4 30spline)
2 shanks from Northern tool

Now If I can figure out where to mount the Huge cylinder, I could start the pluming. :D

http://www.myjeepsite.com/file/pic/gallery/2227.jpg



That's effin awesome!:smokin: What's the tow rating on it?:D

hahaha. Too bad I don't coils up front, I could of used that setup. Now I've gotta come up with somthing else. lol

First I got to say that drawbar welded to the spring perch is probably the coolest mount I've seen yet for the TSC/Tie-rod type cylinder I've seen yet. Great idea!

I call Station at POS and asked him to spec my steering valve. Sean doesn't do single ended cylinder systems, so I did not get my cylinder from POS. I told him I wanted no more than 3 turns lock to lock, and he spec'd the valve (~$300), sold me the short column ($70), valve mount bracket ($10), and an external shock valve ($30).

I then purchased from PolyPerformance a PSC single ended 2.0x8x1.125 cylinder ($150), and their hose kit ($70), and hardware kit ($80)

I spent another $50 at the local hydraulic shop on fittings I needed, all field serviceable.

My high steer arms I made myself from a CAD drawing found right here in PBB.

The tie rod is 1.25OD and 3/8 wall thickness, with CRS ends turned on a lathe and threaded to 3/4-16 for the rod ends. Rod ends I got from a friend with connections (free).

I also purchased two universals for my steering shaft ($60)

Now that I add all the numbers up ($850)... damn! I got's some cash in the steering! Didn't really put it all together like that since it was spread over about 6 months gathering parts....:flipoff2:

The cylinder mount is made of 2x6x.250 rectagle box tubing, with a 1x3x5 piece of CRS cantilevered off the top of the box tubing. Turned out well I think.

Here are mock-up pics:

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/noface812/DSC01034.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/noface812/DSC01050.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/noface812/DSC01048.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/noface812/DSC01030.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/noface812/DSC01036.jpg

I don't have any pics handy of the final valve mount, as it has changed since the addition of the shorty headers due to interference issues, but it looks a lot the same as some already pictured...

I do run this from a stock ham can saginaw pump. I'm going to fab an external tank piped into the top of the pump for added oil capacity. And I run the Amsoil tractor fluid as well. So far, so good.

With the cylinder I selected, and the valve from Station, I get about 3 turns to lock one way, and about 2.5 turns the other. Perfect for me. And it's fast too!

Overall this setup works great. Best damn money I've spent on the rig besides the D60 front. Easy steering, even with a flanged and welded 60.

went the full PSC route. didn't want to skimp on steering and wanted a company who would back up their product.

got it during one of their X-mas specials 2 years ago. works great (drive flanges and 42s)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/1TFROT/1%20ton%20build/Picture141.jpg

nice that will give me a few good ideals

Here is a pic of the filter assembly I used (forgot in earlier post).

I got this from surpluscenter.com for $13

Filter is installed on return line FROM valve TO the pump reservoir.

I feel it's important to have a filter on these systems since the tolerances inside the steering valves are so tight. Any dirt in your system is only going to reduce the life of the valve.

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/noface812/filter.jpg

^^^X2. I'm runnig the cheap set up every one else has already posted. So, my valve is the most expensive thing in the system. I run a return line filter to protect it.

Here is a pic of the filter assembly I used (forgot in earlier post).

I got this from surpluscenter.com for $13

Filter is installed on return line FROM valve TO the pump reservoir.

I feel it's important to have a filter on these systems since the tolerances inside the steering valves are so tight. Any dirt in your system is only going to reduce the life of the valve.

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/noface812/filter.jpg
Is it necessary to run an inline filter in a full hyro setup? Psc does not included it in thier "full kit", but niether is the cooler but they do mention one is needed.

I feel its necessary. For $15 + shipping, can you afford to NOT install one?

I run a filter on my system just to get a little more fluid capacity into the system. It also keeps the gunk out :)

So how many of your orbitals are load reactive? Those that aren't, does it bother you?

load reactive... as in return to center?

I think you'll find that 98% of us out there aren't using them...

no big deal, and works great. Takes a little getting used to, but what we use them for it's hardly noticeable. Just my opinion anyway.

Almost done... I can't freaking wait! I just hope the ram doesn't hit the engine cross member.

http://www.myjeepsite.com/file/pic/gallery/2255.jpg

The mount came out pretty good. *the mount will be tied in with the spring plate later on*

http://www.myjeepsite.com/file/pic/gallery/2256.jpg

The mount for the tierod is still being worked.

dude, you went to some extremes to get that cylinder mounted up higher than the springs yet you got it tied into the drag link in the stock location??? WTF? And I believe I can see a high steer arm on the pass side? Again, WTF? :(

That shit looks like it will rip off.:evil:
You need to tie it into some thing.

X2

can you not read? *the mount will be tied in with the spring plate later on*


The steering arm is still under construction. It will be used, if the current setup fails.

What it all boils down to, is do you figure you would rather spend the money and not have to chase parts, or keep the money in check and do some running around to get all the correct fittings and such you will need.

I don't have the time to run everything down, so I went with the PSC setup. Those guys are super great to talk to about what you need. I also hear good things about Station, but I never could get his website to work to do some research on what he offered so I never called him up.

Almost done... I can't freaking wait! I just hope the ram doesn't hit the engine cross member.

http://www.myjeepsite.com/file/pic/gallery/2255.jpg

The mount came out pretty good. *the mount will be tied in with the spring plate later on*

The mount for the tierod is still being worked.

:shaking::barf: dude, that looks awful, I realize its not done, but hopefully you got something better

Almost done... I can't freaking wait! I just hope the ram doesn't hit the engine cross member.

http://www.myjeepsite.com/file/pic/gallery/2255.jpg

The mount came out pretty good. *the mount will be tied in with the spring plate later on*

http://www.myjeepsite.com/file/pic/gallery/2256.jpg

The mount for the tierod is still being worked.


What was wrong with your original setup? I'm not bashing, but I think it looked alot beter that this.

not to be criticial but the mount on the drag link will have way to much leverage on the link and will bend it , not to mention how much movement it will have being that far from the link , looks like your close enough to try it so have someone steer it slowly and watch the link , you'll see what I'm talking about.

The cylinder is so freaking big.. I don't have any other way to mount it. I gonna try it and if doesn't work out, I'll buy a smaller ram (PSC). I tried to fit the ram behind the tie rod and in front of the axle tube (it hit when turning to the right). :mad3:

You guys were right, the mount failed. Back to the drawing board.

Add + $285 for PSC 2.5 ram and mounting kit.

The high dollar setups are all well and good, but we have had long lasting luck and reliabilty on monster trucks turning 66" tires using stock (a little harder to turn at idle) to slightly modified (a lot easier) GM pumps with an 8" throw by 2" bore cyl. and Char- Lynn unit from a forklift (used). Most broken parts are the cast pieces after lot's of thrashing and homemade mounts. Some trucks are using more expensive pumps, but it seems to be a personal preference.:grinpimp:

You guys were right, the mount failed. Back to the drawing board.

Add + $285 for PSC 2.5 ram and mounting kit.

I thought you were bracing it :flipoff2:


:blackrolleyes:

.

It broke before I could tie it into the spring plate. It didn't pass the driveway test. :barf:

So much for going cheap... $275 later I have steering again.

http://www.myjeepsite.com/file/pic/gallery/2265.jpg
Now I just gotta extend the rez

whats up with peple useing trailer hitches?

much much better. You'll like this sooooo much more.

I still gotta ask why you didn't use your high steer arms and get that drag link ABOVE the springs?

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/noface812/DSC01024.jpg

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn263/noface812/DSC01036.jpg

I didn't use the histeer arm because I didn't want all the steering stress on one knuckle. IMO A TRE is easier to repair than a broken knuckle.

Good thread - keep the setups coming. don't let this thread die.

Where is everybody getting these 12spline shafts that go into the orbital so that you can connect it to the stock steering? Look for something cheap found them like 66 plus shipping.

i probably got just over 2k in to mine. hell the line and fittings were close to 600 bucks by them selfs (every thing costs more up here)but i can run mine at -60 and still flex the lines and not break hoses.
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i130/subranger2002/DSCF0002.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i130/subranger2002/DSC00926.jpg
http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i130/subranger2002/DSC00909.jpg

thats a fancy set up . . . is the tie rod staying where it is?

Is it better to mount to the tie rod or steering arm? sounds like its a matter of opinion.
also If u mount the cylinder parallel with the tierod it should (does it) minimize the twist thats seems to happen on alot of these set ups?

ill be doing this on my truck soon.

Here's mine. PSC system. 2.5x8 SE ram. There are more pics in my build thread of how I set up the ram mounts.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392789&d=1222293571

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392787&d=1222293571

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392788&d=1222293571

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392792&d=1222294609

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392793&d=1222294609

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392794&d=1222294609

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392795&d=1222294609

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=392796&d=1222294680

thats a fancy set up . . . is the tie rod staying where it is?

Is it better to mount to the tie rod or steering arm? sounds like its a matter of opinion.
also If u mount the cylinder parallel with the tierod it should (does it) minimize the twist thats seems to happen on alot of these set ups?

ill be doing this on my truck soon.

the cylinder should always be mounted as close to parallel to the drag link to minimize the cylinders side load force on the link.

Up high, or down low both work the same, lower probably being the stronger position since this is where the knuckles are engineered to be steered from. High steer arms obviously get the drag link and other equipment out of the way of rocks and other obstacles. It's up to you how you mount it.