I recently aquired front and rear D60s, for free:flipoff2:
The front however is a rare (or so I am told) left side low pinion centersection.
Is this axle worth the time to install, or should I hold out for a high pinion model?
Current set up is 90 YJ, rear 12 bolt, front D44- high pinion, Warn shafts, high steer, lockers, etc....:rolleyes:
I don't normally get it awn that hard (usually one run through the sluice a year, and wheeling trips about once a month), but if I install 60s, and I now have an Atlas to try out, It will be AWN in a big way.
Just concerned that low pinion 60 front might cause some issues.

You should give it to me :flipoff2: I would run a low pinion 60 front.

I knew the first thing I would get was somebody telling me it is worthless, and they would volunteer to get rid of it for me:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

IMO.....ANY drivers side 60 is worth it. Especially for your price ;) And myu offer still stands....I got dibs cause I was first :p :flipoff2: (nice score BTW)

Do you plan on cutting it down? If you do then cut some or add some to the spring pad on the punkin to turn it up an extra 10* or so and then it wont be so low pinion. If you don't cut it down then it would still be just fine as it is. Do you have a hi pinion 30 now?

How long is your front shaft? Like 3 feet? I don't think a HP is needed, yeah it would be nice, but run the LP, if you're cutting it, turn it up, if not, run it as is, it's still a 60, so unless its a stupid closed knuckle, run it.

Sorry to get off-topic, but I just talked to a kid a week ago that bought a clean Kaiser M-715, with no engine or trans but everything else, to take out the stupid closed knuckle 60 and put in his Chevy pickup so he would quit breaking the u-joints in his Corp 10-bolt with his 39.5 Boggers. I had seen the Kaiser and was going to buy it but then it was gone, turns out this dork torched out the spring hangers to get the axles out and hauled the rest out to be crushed, and yes, I checked, it has already been crushed. I had a very hard time not knocking his teeth through the back of his head, I would have given him the stock axles If I had bought the Kaiser for the $1500 he paid for it. ARGH! GRRRR! Great, now I'm all mad again.

HP is a bonus to a D60 but 1480 is why you buy one :D

It would be worth sumthin' if it was an open knuckle 35 spline disk braked 60.....my gues is it's not.

Only low pinion drivers side 60's I've seen have been closed knuckle drum breaks with little weeny shafts.

The whole deal on these axles is this.
I have a freind who buys vehicles at dealer auctions, we fix them up and sell them for considerably more than he paid for them.
A couple weeks ago, he came across a Ford 4x4 van. Dana 60s front and rear, new 460(24,000 on it) , C6, NP205, and the high capacity(like 46 gallon) fuel tank. Auction price was only $500:eek: The body is all rusted out, but mechanically the thing is sound, the engine just purrs.
The engine, tranny and fuel tank are all going into his 79 F350, and I get the axles for free!

I have to cough up enough dough for lockers, gears, perches and hi steer arms. This will probably be my winter project.

Originally posted by FordPowr
It would be worth sumthin' if it was an open knuckle 35 spline disk braked 60.....my gues is it's not.

Only low pinion drivers side 60's I've seen have been closed knuckle drum breaks with little weeny shafts.

Open knuckle and disk brakes!

Originally posted by Robert


Open knuckle and disk brakes!

If so, yep it's worth it. Like stated above
1480

it is worth it put them in and donate your old stuff to me .........no really.......:D

Originally posted by misfitcj
it is worth it put them in and donate your old stuff to me .........no really.......:D

Yeah, you get your shit for free, so that means that you gotta pass your current shit to somebody else, namely... me. :smokin:

Sorry misfitcj, I was the 2nd to ask dude, that means I get the hook-up. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by 4Bangler
How long is your front shaft? Like 3 feet? I don't think a HP is needed, yeah it would be nice, but run the LP, if you're cutting it, turn it up, if not, run it as is, it's still a 60, so unless its a stupid closed knuckle, run it.

Sorry to get off-topic, but I just talked to a kid a week ago that bought a clean Kaiser M-715, with no engine or trans but everything else, to take out the stupid closed knuckle 60 and put in his Chevy pickup so he would quit breaking the u-joints in his Corp 10-bolt with his 39.5 Boggers. I had seen the Kaiser and was going to buy it but then it was gone, turns out this dork torched out the spring hangers to get the axles out and hauled the rest out to be crushed, and yes, I checked, it has already been crushed. I had a very hard time not knocking his teeth through the back of his head, I would have given him the stock axles If I had bought the Kaiser for the $1500 he paid for it. ARGH! GRRRR! Great, now I'm all mad again.

so your sayin he had a M715 crushed? beat the shit outa him:mad:

Originally posted by Brad


so your sayin he had a M715 crushed? beat the shit outa him:mad:
Oh he definitly needs a beating:mad:



As far as my old axles, I plan to sell them off to raise funds for the new lockers, rims and tires. I have already had people try to buy them from me right on the trail!!

I am not normally one to dredge up old stuff, but I was curious about something.

As far as ring and pinion strength goes, how much of a difference in strength is there between a HPD44 and a LPD60?

Now before you jump to shouting out D60, the D44 is running 4.10, and the 60 will be running 4.88 or lower (maybe 5.38), making the 60 pinion pretty weak, especially in a front axle application.
I am still going to go with the D60 no matter what, I just thought this was an interesting question.

I have a HP 60 so this might not apply. My 5.13s were HUGE!

Originally posted by Robert
I am not normally one to dredge up old stuff, but I was curious about something.

As far as ring and pinion strength goes, how much of a difference in strength is there between a HPD44 and a LPD60?

Now before you jump to shouting out D60, the D44 is running 4.10, and the 60 will be running 4.88 or lower (maybe 5.38), making the 60 pinion pretty weak, especially in a front axle application.
I am still going to go with the D60 no matter what, I just thought this was an interesting question.

Std 60 stuff is huge too..you won't break the R&P...your 30 spline outers will go first.

Unless you are running 40" tires or larger, I wouldn't worry about the ring and pinion on a 60. The main concern is the ujoints and the hubs. The ujoints are much larger on the 60 than the 44. Most of the carnage you'll see on a front axle on the trail is ujoints or hubs not ring and pinion, or even axles (except when the joint fails). Therefore I would view the 60 as a upgrade to the hp 44.

Ben

I know the difference in U-Joints is what makes a front D60 so much better.

But, what if all else is equal, but the ring and pinion?

A reverse cut R&P is about 25% stronger than a standard cut R&P of the same size and ratio, when used in a front axle.

As you go lower in gear ratios, the pinion gear loses teeth and as such becomes weaker.

With those two statements made, how close are the two gear sets in question in strength? I am sure the 60 still beats out the 44, but this is something that has been eating away at my mind for several days.