hey everybody

well im not seriously looking into it, but over the summer, id *like* to get my hands on a set of dana 60s, and begin toying with them. im just finishing my 8.8/44 build this week, so im looking forward to wheeling it. but just looking at options down the road ( you know you do it too) im thinking 1 tons. well i was looking at 60s on ebay, and for sets they ususally come out to be around a grand. now rears i can handle pretty cheap, since its pretty much just leaf perches, and gears. but the front is what i cant seem to figure out. i bought the TNT truss/mount system for my 44 last year. it came out to be around 400 for EVERY option. i mean uca mounts, lcas, trackbars, coil mounts, and truss. now i was looking at it for the 60 and it all added up to be around 600.

so i started looking at ballistic fab and they make a pretty cool LCA/link/shock mount for a very reasonable price. now its just figuring out what to do about the upper. im running a 3 link, so i only need 1 upper on the pumpkin. so do most people simply weld a mount right to the cast, or build a truss and go to that.


i mean i know building 60s would be expensive...but were talking almost double my 8.8/44 build here. i guess if i actually do build tons, ill just pick em up and take a year or 2 to build em.

on a side note. is there anyway to make 60s 6X5.5

thanks

assuming you run a ford 60. Run your one upper on the passanger side and make a mount right of the axle tube. Then you can build your track bar mount right with it. Same thing I did on mine.

so i started looking at ballistic fab and they make a pretty cool LCA/link/shock mount for a very reasonable price. now its just figuring out what to do about the upper.

I offered Jeff My truss to use as a template for a 78-78 Ford d60 but he didnt have time to draw it up.

They do now make a d60 truss and a 14 bolt truss.
That is tall for a front applicaiton.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/newbrackets/60truss.jpg

you could just do a tower for the one upper on the passenger side and do a 3link
Or make a truss out of some 2X6
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_000_0006_965.jpg
http://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/files/thumbs/t_000_0010_181.jpg

The mounts are the least expensive part of a front D60. I didn't even figure them in to my build. You won't know what's going to work until you lay that front housing under your rig and start to see where things are going to fit.

there is a cheaper way
but if you get caught you will prbly go to jail:flipoff2:

The mounts are the least expensive part of a front D60. I didn't even figure them in to my build. You won't know what's going to work until you lay that front housing under your rig and start to see where things are going to fit.

agreed. I fabbed all of my mounts for the cost of the steel and some welding wire. (hint, a can of progresso soup has the same radius as the D60 axle tube :flipoff2: )

The biggest challenge is fitting the trackbar, tie rod, drivers side coil and mount all in a very small space. A lot of folks think that I did coilovers on my front end because of the bling, shock control and travel. It's really just because I couldn't get the coils to fit.

I home built my 60 with and ARB and stock ford outers and still have every bit of $3k into. Wheel that D44 for a couple of years and have fun before planning the next step.

2 --3 1/4 steel hole saws $30
steel $30
so $60 for all my brackets , upper link
coil perches ..ect.. on my 60
and a set of rear spring pads :D:D:D

dana 60 $700
14 bolt $100
calipers for the 60 $75
brake lines $60
4: 11 gears --free used
stock lock outs 60
master install kit 80
1330 conversion joint 40
u bolt straps 7

add in another 100 for fluids turning rotor ect

bout 1300 rolin...

hows that for cheap

and I sold my 44,s for 1200:flipoff2:
I ran a narrowed 44 and loved it!!..but the trend seems to be just to run fullzise

it seems like not a lot of folks narrow theirs , crap mu buddy with a Toyota is going wider on his stock stuff, and I think its works fine, I would love to narrow my 60 but the work is huge pain , just the knuckle removal and installation seems to be a nightmare with specs and tolerances, from what I understand you only have about 20 second sto get that thing on after ya heat it up, not to mention I have seen 100lb presses used to get the trimmed axle tube inside the C out ..

2 --3 1/4 steel hole saws $30
steel $30
so $60 for all my brackets , upper link
coil perches ..ect.. on my 60
and a set of rear spring pads :D:D:D

dana 60 $700
14 bolt $100
calipers for the 60 $75
brake lines $60
4: 11 gears --free used
stock lock outs 60
master install kit 80
1330 conversion joint 40
u bolt straps 7

add in another 100 for fluids turning rotor ect

bout 1300 rolin...

hows that for cheap

and I sold my 44,s for 1200:flipoff2:

Ford HP D60 = $250 (no need to regear)
Steel truss/links = $50 + (scrap from the shop)
rotors/pads = $70
1330 joint = $40
Brake lines = free
Fluids = have 5 gallons just sitting in the shop
locker = 15 welding rods

Ford D70 = $45
disc brake conversion = $200
steel truss/link = some more scrap from the shop

$655 for both axles. I win :flipoff2:

i would just shop around. I am going to run my junk the way it is until I have everything all together and ready to go in. I still have $2000 in suspension and $1600 in wheels and tires so I have been taking my time finding the good deals on all the parts and axles. My 44 and 9" are built and I have 36" SX on beadlocks so I can make a good amount of money back but I dont want to have my rig on jack stands for a year. I would just say be smart a take your time, it will save you a lot of $$$ on parts and Advil.

Ford HP D60 = $250 (no need to regear)
Steel truss/links = $50 + (scrap from the shop)
rotors/pads = $70
1330 joint = $40
Brake lines = free
Fluids = have 5 gallons just sitting in the shop
locker = 15 welding rods

Ford D70 = $45
disc brake conversion = $200
steel truss/link = some more scrap from the shop

$655 for both axles. I win :flipoff2:

i would just shop around. I am going to run my junk the way it is until I have everything all together and ready to go in. I still have $2000 in suspension and $1600 in wheels and tires so I have been taking my time finding the good deals on all the parts and axles. My 44 and 9" are built and I have 36" SX on beadlocks so I can make a good amount of money back but I dont want to have my rig on jack stands for a year. I would just say be smart a take your time, it will save you a lot of $$$ on parts and Advil.

what year is yours??

I got a 89 ford

sorry xjcrawler I gotta call bull shit on the rotors and pads for 70$--NEW?

but I do believe the dana 60 for 250.........IN PA....:laughing:

but on the west coast you I DARE YA TO FIND ONE at that price..nice job on the dana 70..my 14 bolt still needs the disc conversion..

also ya gotta add in high steer arms to mine ..(for my setup anyway--i could have done it without it but..)
I used my old linkage but if ya dont have that stuff then the price jumps prolly 200 more..

then theres casue and effect ..goint to one tons means 8 lug shit my lug nuts cost $2 each by32 --thats friggin 70 plus tax travel time etc..

and prolly another 2-3K in wheels and tires

I got 39,s for 400
and h1 recenter/rockrings for 500..
but as stated above Im a SHOPPER..:flipoff2:

what year is yours??

I got a 89 ford

sorry xjcrawler I gotta call bull shit on the rotors and pads for 70$--NEW?



Sorry ment to say the rotors are getting turned down. Pads are only like $35. No need for new rotors when a friend has a rotor machine.

The 60 i got was a 89 ford too. A friend got it in jersey and ended up finding a really good deal on Mogs so he is giving the 60 to me.


Oh and Ashman. That truss you made looks very clean. Any pictures of the finished product?

Sorry ment to say the rotors are getting turned down. Pads are only like $35. No need for new rotors when a friend has a rotor machine.

The 60 i got was a 89 ford too. A friend got it in jersey and ended up finding a really good deal on Mogs so he is giving the 60 to me.


Oh and Ashman. That truss you made looks very clean. Any pictures of the finished product?Ok that I can see ..those rotors are spensive new

but even in PA that is a steal on a D 60

Yep, I couldn't afford 1 tons. So I just jumped to 2.5t.

yep rockwells. the only option.

Ford HP D60 = $250 (no need to regear)
Steel truss/links = $50 + (scrap from the shop)
rotors/pads = $70
1330 joint = $40
Brake lines = free
Fluids = have 5 gallons just sitting in the shop
locker = 15 welding rods

Ford D70 = $45
disc brake conversion = $200
steel truss/link = some more scrap from the shop

$655 for both axles. I win :flipoff2:


Rockwells (real high pinion) = 1,000 F&2 rears (no need to regear)
Truss = ya right
rotors and pads = 1,000$ bling wilwood's from overson
1330 joints < 1410 joints thanks
Brake lines = free also
fluids = free
Lockers = welded F&R


Total into Rockwells... $2,000
Sold my 44's for........ $1,600
Sold 2nd rear for........$250
$150 for both axles. I win :flipoff2:

1ton < 2.5ton

Rockwells (real high pinion) = 1,000 F&2 rears (no need to regear)
Truss = ya right
rotors and pads = 1,000$ bling wilwood's from overson
1330 joints < 1410 joints thanks
Brake lines = free also
fluids = free
Lockers = welded F&R


Total into Rockwells... $2,000
Sold my 44's for........ $1,600
Sold 2nd rear for........$250
$150 for both axles. I win :flipoff2:

1ton < 2.5ton

I dig rockwells:shaking: but the issue is 60's

nice vids on the sig...I wanna wheel with you guys:D

Rockwells (real high pinion) = 1,000 F&2 rears (no need to regear)
Truss = ya right
rotors and pads = 1,000$ bling wilwood's from overson
1330 joints < 1410 joints thanks
Brake lines = free also
fluids = free
Lockers = welded F&R


Total into Rockwells... $2,000
Sold my 44's for........ $1,600
Sold 2nd rear for........$250
$150 for both axles. I win :flipoff2:

1ton < 2.5ton


How do the 2.5's do in the whoops ?

like boat anchors. :)

I was originally going to do a 609, Pick up a spidertrax housing and I had found a broken HP60 for $200, the only thing good were the knuckles/shafts/brakes. The biggest expense was going to be the hi9 geared to match my rear 9".

haha...now yall have me looking at rockwells

on a little more serious note, i fully intend on running the set up ive got for a while. if i hvae no problems with it, ill probably stick with it. and if i only end up popping a shaft or 2 i might just put alloys and longfields in it and call it good.

heck, even on the east coast i cant find a very good price on them. hopefully ill find something parting out a truck and they dont know the value of the axles or something. the local junk yards wanted between 7-800 for 8.8s, so im not even going to bother with asking about a 60

haha...now yall have me looking at rockwells

on a little more serious note, i fully intend on running the set up ive got for a while. if i hvae no problems with it, ill probably stick with it. and if i only end up popping a shaft or 2 i might just put alloys and longfields in it and call it good.

heck, even on the east coast i cant find a very good price on them. hopefully ill find something parting out a truck and they dont know the value of the axles or something. the local junk yards wanted between 7-800 for 8.8s, so im not even going to bother with asking about a 60


this board and craigslist ..I know folks who have driven hundreds of miles to pickup axles

The deals are out there..take your time and dont give up. I picked up a late 80s ford dana 60 for 50$$ a few months back belive it or not. Up here in new england they can still be found real cheap if you look around abit.

the local junk yards wanted between 7-800 for 8.8s, so im not even going to bother with asking about a 60

Holy sheet. Your looking in the wrong spots. Check out pull-a-part or car-part.com.

Ryan

How do the 2.5's do in the whoops ?

Not as good as IFS but then again I'm a rockcrawler not :rainbow:

on a little more serious note, i fully intend on running the set up ive got for a while. if i hvae no problems with it, ill probably stick with it. and if i only end up popping a shaft or 2 i might just put alloys and longfields in it and call it good.


Stock shafts in the D44?

If you don't break the shit out of those you aren't doing anything. :flipoff2:

Chromo shafts and joints should be assumed on a D44 build.

this board and craigslist ..I know folks who have driven hundreds of miles to pickup axles

Me. I drove for 8 hours to get my rockwells.

yep rockwells. the only option.
How's that doin on the trail, by the way?