I have an 02 TJ with a 5.5 rela kit on it. Problem is that even with my AA SYE and double cardon driveshaft, I'm still breaking the the top pivot point in the driveshaft. I've put 1" spacers under my belly pan to try to lessen the angle, but this is only a short term fix. Also my links are as far out as they can be without hitting my plastic gas tank skid. Even if I take off that gas tank skid it only gains me maybe 1/2" clearence. I don't really want to spend the $1500 a get a tom woods 80* shaft. Waht else could I do??

Thanks

Dkx

fuel cell?

Have a picture of your shaft and angles? Sounds odd that a standard SYE on a 5.5" lift is having problems.

did you set your pinion angle???? i have a RE 4.5, and mines only @ 13 deg?

Im with oldjeep, .... A TON of RE5.5 kits out there, a TON of AA SYE's... and not many people taking out shafts on a regular basis...

Post up some pics,

I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. The driveshaft is in line with the pinion, but the angle to the tc is pretty sharp. I'm thinking I don't have enough angle in the driveshaft maybe?

Sounds to me like you need to adjust your pinion angle. I used to run this same set-up and had no problems like the ones you are having.

would a engin mount lift help like the one from brown dog? This would tip the back of your tcase towards you pinion right?

http://browndogindustries.com/

Dave

would a engin mount lift help like the one from brown dog? This would tip the back of your tcase towards you pinion right?

http://browndogindustries.com/

Dave

It would help in that it will change the angle of your tcase (lift the front up and lower the rear).
We could still use a pic of your drive line angles though.

Less lift...more cutting :D.

I have an 02 TJ with a 5.5 rela kit on it. Problem is that even with my AA SYE and double cardon driveshaft, I'm still breaking the the top pivot point in the driveshaft. I've put 1" spacers under my belly pan to try to lessen the angle, but this is only a short term fix. Also my links are as far out as they can be without hitting my plastic gas tank skid. Even if I take off that gas tank skid it only gains me maybe 1/2" clearence. I don't really want to spend the $1500 a get a tom woods 80* shaft. Waht else could I do??

Thanks

Dkx

I have this same setup and this is what happened with less than a thousand miles on after the lift.
http://i42.tinypic.com/21lvihs.jpg
http://i41.tinypic.com/2nksyz5.jpg

Looks to me like your pinion angle is a little too much, but it's hard to tell from that angle. When I set mine on my YJ I had the Privelage of being able to bolt up the rear end and NOT Weld on the spring pearches until I had everything Just right.

Now keeping that in mind I had a 2.5 / AX-5 and I had taken a Cherokee front driveshaft and cut it down to the length I needed. Then 3K ago I swapped a 4.0 / AX-15 in the 95 YJ and took a grinder to the weld on the drive shaft and then took a sawzall and cut it again and rewelded it. Not a single problem with it not even a noticeable vibration.

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc313/fa_ranger/Jeep%20work/Jeep040.jpg

Extreme pinion angle is a result of the lift and short distance between the transfercase and axle on the TJ. Looks like the set up that Alfred W. has on his YJ results in a drive shaft that is 25% longer, which will result in a less extreme pinion agnle also.

Extreme pinion angle is a result of the lift and short distance between the transfercase and axle on the TJ. Looks like the set up that Alfred W. has on his YJ results in a drive shaft that is 25% longer, which will result in a less extreme pinion agnle also.

Well excuse me, I just use a straight edge to see that your pinion was pointing up past the yolk for his SYE MY BAD.
I was using that photo to show a correct line to the SYE Yolk. Personally I'd bring HIS pinion angle Down about half an inch give or take an 1/8 or 1/4.
Have to check it in person to be sure.

See the webbing on the side of your center chunk. Clamp a piece of angle Iron to it. That webbing is about at center line of your diff's yolk.

Now my example was taken with the 2.5 and AX-5 installed. Like I said (and you missed reading) I installed the 4.0/AX-15 in and my angle is still good after cutting down my shaft 2" in a driveway and welding it back. I have no vibes or problems. The reason being I'm just fucking lucky.

It has nothing to do with being an ASE certified Auto Mechanic since 1978 or owning the factory service manual for a 1995 YJ/Cherokee, that gives a couple of good drawings of the principals of driveline angles. There is some other hyrogliphics people tell me are words and math formulas.

Well excuse me, I just use a straight edge to see that your pinion was pointing up past the yolk for his SYE MY BAD.
I was using that photo to show a correct line to the SYE Yolk. Personally I'd bring HIS pinion angle Down about half an inch give or take an 1/8 or 1/4.
Have to check it in person to be sure.

See the webbing on the side of your center chunk. Clamp a piece of angle Iron to it. That webbing is about at center line of your diff's yolk.

Now my example was taken with the 2.5 and AX-5 installed. Like I said (and you missed reading) I installed the 4.0/AX-15 in and my angle is still good after cutting down my shaft 2" in a driveway and welding it back. I have no vibes or problems. The reason being I'm just fucking lucky.

It has nothing to do with being an ASE certified Auto Mechanic since 1978 or owning the factory service manual for a 1995 YJ/Cherokee, that gives a couple of good drawings of the principals of driveline angles. There is some other hyrogliphics people tell me are words and math formulas.


Didn't miss it, didnt feel the need to have to restate that you had a 2.5 and ax-5. I also didn't mention you have a YJ and not a TJ. I'm by no means a ASE certified Auto Mechanic and have just enough mechanical experiance to really mess things up, but I must be missing something because I didn't see a picture of the original posters driveline. How do you know he should lower it?

Also, since your a ASE certified Auto Mechanic and have been since 1978 can you explain how you bring HIS pinion "angle" Down and have units of inches? Isn't an angle measured in degrees?
It also seems that lowering the pinion will increase the angle between his driveline and his SYE? Seems like it would make it worse.:confused:

And isn't there a differance in how the pinion might be set up due to the leaf springs on a yj and the Long Arm kit on the TJ?

please explain.
Thanks

Didn't miss it, didnt feel the need to have to restate that you had a 2.5 and ax-5. But you missed the fact I had cut my driveshaft down and adding 3 inches to the SYE with the AX-15. Making my angle greater. And I have a 4.0 I also didn't mention you have a YJ and not a TJ. I'm by no means a ASE certified Auto Mechanic and have just enough mechanical experiance to really mess things up, but I must be missing something because I didn't see a picture of the original posters driveline. How do you know he should lower it? I was talking about YOUR PHOTO AND YOUR DRIVELINE ANGLE. But you go ahead and agrue I'm wrong, since your's blew out at 1,000 miles Also, since your a ASE certified Auto Mechanic and have been since 1978 can you explain how you bring HIS pinion "angle" Down and have units of inches? Isn't an angle measured in degrees? Now how Praytell am I going to measure the degress from a Photo take at an Obliqic angle?It also seems that lowering the pinion will increase the angle between his driveline and his SYE? Seems like it would make it worse.:confused:

And isn't there a differance in how the pinion might be set up due to the leaf springs on a yj and the Long Arm kit on the TJ?

please explain.
Thanks

No there isn't any differance. A drive shaft does not care what its in. even in a semi truck or boat the U- joint speed must be the same.


The angle at your SYE is a down Angle, the angle at your pinion should be an UP angle they should be the same. Forget the 3rd U joint in the center of your H-link.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc313/fa_ranger/Jeep%20work/driveshaft.jpg
But in the Photo above (you posted) I see a pinion yolk that is pointing up above the SYE. Now that is making the driveshaft a U shape no matter how slightly it is doing it by. THAT is gernading your H yolk. Good starting point before checking angles is to have your pinion center pointing at the bottem of your SYE shaft. I used an edge of paper against the computer screen. To see your angle.
I'm not the best at explaining this but I am trying.

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc313/fa_ranger/Jeep%20work/wrongangle.jpg


Here is a photo I took after I cut a couple of inches off my drive shaft. Same pinion angle. But your 25% longer driveshaft is gone. And it is a 4.5 inch lift extreme duty rubicon express.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc313/fa_ranger/Jeep%20work/P7080008.jpg

Now not to kick you in the balls but I didn't measure anything I eyeballed it. When I installed the SYE with the 2.5 knowing I was going to do the 4.0 swap. but like I said get a 2 foot piece of small angle and clamp it to your diff's webbing. You have a little room to play with BUT Jay your out of the play zone.

I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. The driveshaft is in line with the pinion, but the angle to the tc is pretty sharp. I'm thinking I don't have enough angle in the driveshaft maybe?

Well without pictures how can we tell. Phone cam pictures will work.

ok ok... who set this up? i was runnin a 8" LA kit and only a SYE and standard cv shaft with no issues. i think you have the pinion angle way off or something... i also had a tummy tucker and no drops? :eek: