: Tube doors/winch bumper pics...
Wheelie_Pete 08-16-2002, 12:04 AM Last few weeks worth of projects. We're building my winch bumper tied into my dropped front spring hanger to give it protection as well as work as a ramp for rocks. ;D
My tube doors are done. I may add loops and diamond plate to the bottom bar for looks and to keep crap from falling out. But that's a winter project...
I've got close-ups of my hinge pin quick release. If you manage to cut your hinges and then force out the stock pin without fawking up the brash bushing, then you can use a 5/16 pin perfectly. My passanger's door hinges worked out this way and it works awesome! My driver's door's brass bushings in both hinges cracked when we tried to pull the stock pin so we had to drill them out and use a slightly larger bolt with the head ground down. any way, enjoy the pics. (To get the old factory pin out without a fuss, cut it in half as it sits in the hinge, then take a cold chisel and start tapping around the edge of the top of the pin. This should start to pry the pin upwards, then, when you clear the swege marks on the pin you can just pull it out. Repeat for the bottom half.)
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/wheelie_pete/Winch%20Bumper/Side01.JPG
We'll build the upper hoops off of the exsiting structure when I get a winch on there and see how it all fits.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/wheelie_pete/Winch%20Bumper/Top01.JPG
The trianglular gusset will help rocks ramp and not take out the spring hanger.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/wheelie_pete/Winch%20Bumper/Gusset01.JPG
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/wheelie_pete/Tube%20Doors/Doors01.JPG
Wheelie_Pete 08-16-2002, 12:05 AM Just two little tabs with a pin through them to keep the door closed. I have a little piece of rubber in there to keep it from rattling.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/wheelie_pete/Tube%20Doors/Latch01JPG.jpg
A perfect 5/16" pin in the factory brass bushings. This works so well I can hardly believe it. The pin is upside down because there isn't enough room to drop it down through the top due to the shape of the door's edge. A sharp eye will notice that the lower bolt head on the door's half of the hinge is ground down. This is so you can clear the pin's shoulder by the bolt. It had to be done to get a straight up shot for the pin. The tolerances are pretty close.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/wheelie_pete/Tube%20Doors/Pin02.JPG
Bones 08-16-2002, 04:24 AM Nice work! I like the tube doors. Gives me some ideas for winter as well. I need to make my other set of doors quick release and want to try to do the same thing you did on the passenger side. I used a 7/16 pin on my current doors and I must have tweeked them removing the stock pin. They're kind of a PITA to get installed solo since I bashed both fenders, etc.
Raptor 08-16-2002, 07:25 AM Hmmm.....Look like you sorta bunged up you're aproach angle.
Can it go higher and tuck in a little more ( the winch bumper I mean ). It's one of the reasons I'm getting rid of my ARB. The axle is 2+" forward and w/37's it's almost vertical ( angle ) except for the bumper. Just a thought.
B
Wheelie_Pete 08-16-2002, 08:17 AM Actually, we looked at that really hard. We wanted to get the winch as low as possible without sacrificing too much approach. Those are 33's in the picture and we will be moving the axle foraward another inch to inch and a half and putting 37's on there so that should re-gain a lot of the angle. We wanted to make sure the approach angle wasn't going to be figured by the spring hangers. In other words, we didn't want to hit the spring hanger first. We ran the bumper out just far enough to get the winch plate to fit.
Raptor 08-16-2002, 08:35 AM Right on.
Those doors rock:)
Originally posted by Wheelie_Pete
Actually, we looked at that really hard. We wanted to get the winch as low as possible without sacrificing too much approach.
I am considering the same delima - the 3" body lift makes it awkward to mount a winch low enough to transfer weight to the frame correctly, while still mounting a winch and bumper so that it still "looks right".
desertPOS 08-16-2002, 11:45 AM Originally posted by Raptor
Those doors rock:)
second that;) you should start production on those things and sell 'em for cheap;)
Jim Johnson 08-16-2002, 05:23 PM doors look great, Bumper looks small - are you going to extend out any widerm or leave it narrow? Show a pic with winch mounted when you can..
Wheelie_Pete 08-16-2002, 11:35 PM Here's some ideas of what we are shooting for on the bumper. I'm working overtime this weekend so I can build up some $$ to get a winch (have to pass that large a purchase by the spouse, but overtime is my gravy ;)
The way we make our tube doors is easy, but each door only fit's the rig it was made for (hinge placement etc.. I think it would be really hard to make a "bolt on" door the way we have it with the hinge pins. I'm pretty sure that's why AOR has you take the bolts out of your door and bolt their tube doors on. Then you don't have to worry about lining up the hinges cause the bolt plates have slotted holes in the doors. We're thinking about it though. One of these days I'll spring for a JD bender. Those doors are made out of pipe, bent up with a harbor freight special. Ditto on the bumper. (notice the flat spot on the 90 degree bends.) Nature of the beast, but hey, run what ya brung...right?
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/yabbse/attachments/UpperIdea.jpg
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/yabbse/attachments/SideIdea.jpg
Wheelie_Pete 08-16-2002, 11:44 PM Pic of my tube door functioning. Does make it easy to lean out and see what's going on. We don't open them to get in and out, we just "Duke's Of Hazard" our way in and out. It's actually quite easy, comfortable and fast. Course, I'm not really huge either...
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/yabbse/attachments/P-Elim03a.jpg
By the way, for anyone that's interested, the "Z" bend in the top bar of the door is 40 pumps per bend on the harbor freight pipe bender. That gets the upper portion in your hinge, and the lower portion lined up with your striker bar on the cab.
I only have a 2" body lift that I am probably going to leave in place because #1 I have NO rust (thank you Oregon) and #2 I love the way it makes working under/around the engine and tranny so much eaiser. I have courted the idea of cutting it down to maybe 1.5", but it seems to be fine and has survived wheeling well. Keeps the drivetrain lift possibility alive also.
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