So I have a chance to pick up a lathe, but its spindle bore is 1.25.

I am also looking at the grizzle gunsmith lathe which is 1-5/8
http://grizzly.com/products/Gunsmith-s-Bench-Top-Lathe-with-Stand/G4003G

Which one should I choose?

oh SRP made a small profit this year, looking at getting a lathe by the end of the year

1-1/4" bore would be the absolute minimum for working on rifle barrels through the headstock. if it has a long enough bed, there is a lot of work that can be done between centers though. i think through the headstock with a 4 jaw chuck and spider on the backside is the easiest for barrel work. if you are working on shorter barrels, you may have to work between centers either way since the headstock will be longer than the barrel.

i hear good things about the grizzly.

Oh yeah, I will be using it to make supressors also.

Get as big as you can afford, my 1 3/8 spindle bore is a bit limiting when it comes to designing form 1 goodies.

However nowhere near as limiting as waiting on my damn form 1....

We are talking old south bend for 1k versus the new griz for 3k.
I just hate the thought of getting the smaller one and realizing quickly its not going to work.

I need to pull out the brownells and see what the majpr diameter is on most barrel blanks.

We are talking old south bend for 1k versus the new griz for 3k.
I just hate the thought of getting the smaller one and realizing quickly its not going to work.

not necessarily for gun work but i use every bit of my 1-1/2" spindle bore often and have wished i had larger several times.

We are talking old south bend for 1k versus the new griz for 3k.
I just hate the thought of getting the smaller one and realizing quickly its not going to work.

Just get the big one and start cranking out $100 suppressors for us. :D:D

What ^^ guy said. You'll probably want something along the lines of 2.25"

Go with the southbend.

and somehow, I'm tihnking the 'small profit' was nice. :smokin:

What are you plans once you get the lathe? What services will you be offering?

Go with the southbend.

and somehow, I'm tihnking the 'small profit' was nice. :smokin:

Remember I started the year with a bunch of debt, which I have managed to pay off.
I also got smart and all of the 'demo' items I am moving from inventory to business expense.
I can just barely afford a 3k lathe, it would get purchased with a no interest for the next 18 months CC I have.

What are you plans once you get the lathe? What services will you be offering?

Same as now, threading muzzle ends for brakes and stuff.

Start doing my own suppressors.

Get into barrel profiling maybe. Take a 223 or 311 blank and make barrels for AK kits with cut barrels. Make some 308 based ARs also. DPMS stripped uppers and stuff are currently easier to get then complete rifles.

I am staying AK/AR/FAL, not going to be doing custom bolt guns or anything.

Same as now, threading muzzle ends for brakes and stuff.

Start doing my own suppressors.

Get into barrel profiling maybe. Take a 223 or 311 blank and make barrels for AK kits with cut barrels. Make some 308 based ARs also. DPMS stripped uppers and stuff are currently easier to get then complete rifles.

I am staying AK/AR/FAL, not going to be doing custom bolt guns or anything.

I will be moving into Pete's garage, free room and board for full time work.

Then, it's AWN!


BTW, get the largest spindle you can. I would look hard in the 3k range, you should be able to find 2+" spindle easily. SB and Logans are nice for the price, I'd much prefer them to a Grizzly.

Then, it's AWN!


BTW, get the largest spindle you can. I would look hard in the 3k range, you should be able to find 2+" spindle easily. SB and Logans are nice for the price, I'd much prefer them to a Grizzly.


i'd much rather have an unworn out american machine than an unworn out chinese machine. i couldn't find an unworn out american machine with the work envelope i needed and i could afford. i ended up going with a new chinese machine and so far it has done everything i have asked of it. instead of chasing parts to repair an old machine like i had been used to, i cleaned the cosmoline off, leveled it and started making things on the new chinese machine.

There are a number of quality builders I would recommend, Logans, Southbend, warner Swasey, Leblonds, Hardinge etc, but as stated, if they are worn out, they are junk. Check the ways for wear, and for slop or backlash in the saddle. Most machines will have adjustable gibbs, so if the wear is even, it can be adjusted out. If worn exessively in one spot, then they are much more on the junk side.

Mine is 2" through. Often find myself wanting a 2.5" and Sometimes 3 and 4"! I imagine that is the way it goes. The bigger the better, you'll probaby always find a use for a bit larger.

EDIT, do either of the lathes come with taper attachment? Might be handy for barrel work.

I am staying AK/AR/FAL, not going to be doing custom bolt guns or anything.

Makes sense to me, the website is called Evil-Black-Rifles.com :D

i appreciate the quality of Southbend and the like.
For the life of my I can not find a 2" bore for 3k.
I have read some reviews of the Griz and so far they are positive.

its 12x36 with a 1-5/8 bore.
6" 3-Jaw chuck with two sets of jaws
8" 4-Jaw chuck with reversible jaws
10" face plate
Steady rest with roller tips
Follow rest with roller tips
Tool box
Quick change tool post with one tool holder
2 MT#3 dead centers (1 carbide tipped)
1 MT#3 live center
Set of six change gears
1/2" chuck w/ MT#3 arbor
Removable gap bed allows turnings up to 17" in diameter
Nine spindle speeds - ranging from 70 to 1,400 RPM
Easy to use lever controls
Hardened and ground cast iron bed
Cuts 4-112 Standard TPI and .2-4.5 Metric
Full length splash guard
On/off reverse switch on carriage
Halogen work light
Ball bearing steady/follow rests
Outboard end support screws
Socket for tailstock lock
Cast iron stand with extended base
Cast aluminum gear cover
D1-5 spindle nose (6 pin)
Motor 2 HP, 220V, single-phase, 9 Amps, 60 Hz, 1725 RPM
Swing over bed 12"
Swing over gap 17 1/2"
Swing over cross slide 7"
Distance between centers 36"
Bed width 7-1/4"
Spindle bore 1-5/8"
Spindle nose taper MT#5
Spindle nose D1-5 Camlock
Cross slide travel 6-1/4"
Compound travel 3-1/4"
Tailstock barrel taper MT#3
Tailstock barrel travel 4"
Number of speeds 9
Range of speeds 70, 200, 220, 270, 360, 600, 800, 1000, 1400 RPM
Height w/o stand 23"
Height w/ stand 54-1/2"
Length w/ stand 61"
Width of stand 26"
Approximate shipping weight 1500 lbs.


The 3k price includes shipping.

As far as I can tell all I need are some cutting tools and I can go to work.

The ability to buy this and not actually pay for it imediately, and no interest is also a positive.

I guess what I am really asking here, is there a better Lathe I can get for under 3k?

Oh and this is for my house, 220v single phase is a requirement

I guess what I am really asking here, is there a better Lathe I can get for under 3k?

Oh and this is for my house, 220v single phase is a requirement

FYI, my mill is three phase, running on single phase (static converter). I used to fear three-phase, till I set one up... it was cake. :)

Static converters don't work for everything, but as long as you can no-load start a lathe, and it's a manual machine (CNC's often won't run on converters) you're probably OK.

I guess what I am really asking here, is there a better Lathe I can get for under 3k?


as far as new, i honestly don't think so. if you search around and know what you are looking for you may be able to find some old american iron that isn't worn out. most the old american lathes i was looking at had 1-3/8" or smaller spindle bore and that wouldn't work for me. others had the bed worn out so the carriage felt decent near the head stock but got tight or locked up toward the tailstock. the cross and compound were also loose/tight throughout the travel.

i don't think there is anyone who would prefer a chinese machine to an american machine of the same size provided the american machine is not worn out. if you have a machinist friend that would be willing to go with you to check out used lathes it would probably be a big help keeping you from buying junk.

if you have a machinist friend that would be willing to go with you to check out used lathes it would probably be a big help keeping you from buying junk.

Scott actually located the 1k one for me :D

I am just leary of the 1.25 bore. And yeah I do kinda like the get it now, pay it later :)

Find a few more bucks...
http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/951648251.html

Machinery selection on CL sucks... one good sized machine (this one) and a bunch of dinky overpriced ones. Gotta go northeast (Ohio area) to get good deals on machinery. :(

Find a few more bucks...
http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/951648251.html

Machinery selection on CL sucks... one good sized machine (this one) and a bunch of dinky overpriced ones. Gotta go northeast (Ohio area) to get good deals on machinery. :(


http://www.lathes.co.uk/okuma/


That lathe would rock.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/okuma/

That lathe would rock.

That one's not far from what I'd consider the ideal 4x shop lathe, and is about as close as I've ever seen in an actual production machine. The only way I know of to get closer is what a buddy of mine did once upon a time: took a big lathe and cut it down to a shorter bed length. I don't have $5.5k burning a hole in my pocket, though, or I'd be on it myself, and my little 13x40 would be on CL in the morning. :laughing:

No kidding, that's one hell of a machine.

Whats the bore size on your 13x40/ :laughing:

Seriously though, how hard would it be to shorten a lathe bed?

Whats the bore size on your 13x40/ :laughing:

Seriously though, how hard would it be to shorten a lathe bed?

My 13x40 is 1.5" bore.

I could park that 21x59 uncut in my shop if I got mine out. But my 13x40 isn't worth enough to get me far-enough towards $5.5k, to get me there, unless I really lowballed (like, offensively so) the Okuma seller.

Well, first you need the biggest mofawking band saw you've ever seen....

Find a few more bucks...
http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/951648251.html


3k to 5.5k is too big of a jump.

Well, first you need the biggest mofawking band saw you've ever seen....

Portaband :smokin:

Portaband :smokin:

how in the fuck are you gonna get a square cut across a 13x40 lathe bed with a fucking portaband? :homer: :laughing:




best way would be a plasma w/ training wheels and a guide :grinpimp:

My buddy used a torch, out past the tailstock where the cut doesn't need to be square.

If you'd have to cut down a 13x40 to fit... your garage is too small for machinery. :laughing: The machine is only 2.5x7 feet.

My buddy used a torch, out past the tailstock where the cut doesn't need to be square.

If you'd have to cut down a 13x40 to fit... your garage is too small for machinery. :laughing: The machine is only 2.5x7 feet.

Not your lathe.

Was more of a general question. I was thinking I want 36" between centers but this is 50". Set the tail stock and just lopp off the rest with a torch.

But I was worried baout heat warp

Not your lathe.

Was more of a general question. I was thinking I want 36" between centers but this is 50". Set the tail stock and just lopp off the rest with a torch.

But I was worried baout heat warp

I didn't figure you'd need to cut something the size of mine down... I'd hope not, anyway. More commenting towards PT Ranger, who picked up on that a portaband isn't even going to cut up a little lathe like mine effectively.

Heat warp could be a problem with a torch; the one my buddy cut down was something absolutely ungawdly mofawking huge (I think he said 50" swing, something like a 20' bed) that they cut down to about six feet of bed. IIRC, he noted that they built a whole new extra "leg" under the bed next to where they cut it, and they didn't really stress over how much damage they'd do to the last foot or so of the bed, because of the grossly immense size of what they were working with.

Edit: I wouldn't bother cutting a foot off of anything machinery-wise... just not worth the hassle/risk. Honestly, any less than about eight feet needing cut-off, I'd just find a different place to park it, and call it good enough, 'cause cutting down a lathe can't be fun, safe, or easy.

"'cause cutting down a lathe can't be fun, safe, or easy."

Please don't do this. Just get a smaller one. Check out the auction sites and wait.

Missed this stuff two days ago


http://www.thebranfordgroup.com/DNN3/Auction/gdri.aspx

19" LeBlond up tomorrow


http://www.coloradoauctionguide.com/Auctioneer/mark/Auction/1222464435

Oh and this is for my house, 220v single phase is a requirement

FYI, my mill is three phase, running on single phase (static converter). I used to fear three-phase, till I set one up... it was cake. :)

Static converters don't work for everything, but as long as you can no-load start a lathe, and it's a manual machine (CNC's often won't run on converters) you're probably OK.


X2 Pete - do not be afraid of the 3 phase. I run my 3 phase mill and my 3 phase lathe on VFD's (variable frequency device) and they work great!! Unlike a static or rotary convertor, the VFD is 90 something percent efficient. And if you don't have a variable speed machine, you can make it one by varying the frequency on the VFD. They are a bit pricey, but with the deals you can get on 3 phase machinary, it's an easier pill to swallow.

The other option would be to replace the motor with a single phase unit.

FWIW - I picked up a 16 X 54 Hendey lathe with 3 jaw and 4 haw chucks, collet set and tooling for $2000. It's a monster, but it'll do pretty much anything I want it to. The motor is 5 HP and the VFD to run it was ~$600. It's a nice solid chunk of American craftsmanship and quality.

:bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

Lathe arrives on Friday. :D

:bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

Lathe arrives on Friday. :D

You go with the Grizzly, or something else entirely?

Inquiring minds and all... :laughing:

Oh, your other stuff should be done either Friday or Monday, BTW.

:bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

Lathe arrives on Friday. :D

now get an enco and msc catalogues and be prepared to spend as much as twice what you did on the lathe for tooling:D

I went with the grizz. 6 months no payments from Grizz was too hard to pass up.
I have 1/3 of the money already just on my CC points and at the current rate will have it all paid off before the 6 months are up.
I got it before the end of this year and according to KAA it will count as a biz expense for this year.
i know I could probably find something in good condition and used if I waited, but getting it this year is important. SRP is a side business, so low profit is a good thing ;)

now get an enco and msc catalogues and be prepared to spend as much as twice what you did on the lathe for tooling:D

has 3-jaw, 4-jaw, roller toipped follower, roller tipped center support, qd tool post, tail stock, I ordered hand full of cutting bits, LH, RH, inside, outside thread, etc, etc. I have all the measuring tools.
I have two old shotout garbage FALs to practice on.
I have a 50amp 220v already in the garage and a 50' 2 gauge extension cord that I use for the AC, welders, etc.
So all I need to do is to get the oil for the gear box, and a stove cord from Lowes and I should be good to go.

:D

I went with the grizz. 6 months no payments from Grizz was too hard to pass up.
I have 1/3 of the money already just on my CC points and at the current rate will have it all paid off before the 6 months are up.
I got it before the end of this year and according to KAA it will count as a biz expense for this year.
i know I could probably find something in good condition and used if I waited, but getting it this year is important. SRP is a side business, so low profit is a good thing ;)

With the CC points and the no-interest, that sounds like a good call. May you continue to make a pittance for many years to come. ;)

We are talking old south bend for 1k versus the new griz for 3k.
I just hate the thought of getting the smaller one and realizing quickly its not going to work.

I need to pull out the brownells and see what the majpr diameter is on most barrel blanks.

And thats exactly what will happen. While I love my lathe, I need / want the Grizz :smokin:

has 3-jaw, 4-jaw, roller toipped follower, roller tipped center support, qd tool post, tail stock, I ordered hand full of cutting bits, LH, RH, inside, outside thread, etc, etc. I have all the measuring tools.
I have two old shotout garbage FALs to practice on.
I have a 50amp 220v already in the garage and a 50' 2 gauge extension cord that I use for the AC, welders, etc.
So all I need to do is to get the oil for the gear box, and a stove cord from Lowes and I should be good to go.

:D


You will still find yourself "needing" this or that and if you're like me, placing an order a week with Enco just to get everything that you "need".

Well they ended up not delivering on Friday but called yesterday and set up an appoint ment for this morning.

Which means they dropped it off at 5pm tonight. :(

Well at least its all here.

Never realized what a steep driveway I have until I tried to pull the thing into the garage. Folks that have been here have seen it. Just bareley two car lengths long, and about a 4-5' climb over that length.

I dissasembled the shipping crate in the road. Lift the lathe off the pallet with my engine hoiste.
Have a electric winch for the new rover I am building. Chained it down to the garage floor, attached a battery and pulled the engine hoiste w/lathe up into the garage.

I bet coming over the crest into the garage was fun :flipoff2:

FYI, my mill is three phase, running on single phase (static converter). I used to fear three-phase, till I set one up... it was cake. :)

Static converters don't work for everything, but as long as you can no-load start a lathe, and it's a manual machine (CNC's often won't run on converters) you're probably OK.

If you buy a really nice converter you can :D

If you buy a really nice converter you can :D

Or a really old CNC... :laughing:

(my mill is CNC, running on a static converter)

I've never had to deal with one of the "really nice converters", but I've heard good things about everything but the pricetag, which is a little frightening.

Or a really old CNC... :laughing:

(my mill is CNC, running on a static converter)

I've never had to deal with one of the "really nice converters", but I've heard good things about everything but the pricetag, which is a little frightening.

The pricetag is like a kick in the nuts twice a day

I bet coming over the crest into the garage was fun :flipoff2:

My hoiste is a 6 wheeler. Folding legs, so there are 4 under the 'crane' and then one out on each leg. Its close to bottoming out on the crest, but it made it no problem.

Luckily I moved SWMBOs car before doing the pull. Guess my driveway also slopes a little towards the neighbors house, so the thing swung like a pendulum in that direction.

I have to stop on the way home from work tonight and pick up some concrete inserts and bolts.

I am thinking I should try and level the base before dropping the unit on top and leveling that. Its not too bad, but the garage floor definately slopes towards the door. I am sure this was by 'design', spill something and it slowly runs out into the driveway.
But side to side its pretty level.

My hoiste is a 6 wheeler. Folding legs, so there are 4 under the 'crane' and then one out on each leg. Its close to bottoming out on the crest, but it made it no problem.

Luckily I moved SWMBOs car before doing the pull. Guess my driveway also slopes a little towards the neighbors house, so the thing swung like a pendulum in that direction.

I have to stop on the way home from work tonight and pick up some concrete inserts and bolts.

I am thinking I should try and level the base before dropping the unit on top and leveling that. Its not too bad, but the garage floor definately slopes towards the door. I am sure this was by 'design', spill something and it slowly runs out into the driveway.
But side to side its pretty level.


if you want to do really precision work, you definatly want the bed of the lathe level in every direction to ensure it is not twisted. i don't mean with a level you buy at home depot either. it needs to be a precision machinist level that has .0005" per foot or better sensitivity.



how was your lathe packaged? was it protected good enough? i read on another forum that it took someone three tries to get a lathe from grizzly that was not beat to hell in shipping.

you'll have fun with the new machine. be careful around it though. it can hurt you.

oh, make absolutely 100% sure you remove the chuck key from the chuck every single time:D

I do have a bunch of books, and will be using a machinest level, not a framing level. Should I try and level the bases? Or just the lathe on top of them?
Everything I have read talks about shims between lathe and base to level, but no mention of what to use. Do I need to find some very thin sheet metal or just use some 3x5 cards?


Yeah, luckily I have made the mistake on my sherline. It can hurt you, but not going to tear your arm off.

I am almost thinking about having a big check list hanging on the wall over the lathe.

As far as I can tell everything is good. The sheet metal peace that goes between the stands wasn't wrapped very well and its scratched in spots.
The base/stand/support pieces weigh 75kilo and 90kilo respectively. Not sure what that is in pounds, but its fucking heavy.
They were on their own seperate pallet and this pallet got placed ontop of the lathe box.
The lathe box was a complete 2x4 frame, that was then sheathed in 1/4" plywood. The stand pallet broke through this, but the cross pieces of the actual box frame prevented it from going into the lathe.
So it wasn't what I would call a good pack job, but looks like it survived.

oh, make absolutely 100% sure you remove the chuck key from the chuck every single time:D

I'm really bad about this, and every time a real machinist sees it (I'm getting better, I have an actual specific home for the chuck key, on pegboard, right behind the lathe) I get lectured for it. Bad habits die hard... don't let them start.

I do have a bunch of books, and will be using a machinest level, not a framing level. Should I try and level the bases? Or just the lathe on top of them?
Everything I have read talks about shims between lathe and base to level, but no mention of what to use. Do I need to find some very thin sheet metal or just use some 3x5 cards?




since the base is separate from the machine now, i'd start out by leveling the base with a regular level. when you put the weight of the machine on it more than likely it will change a bit. at this point, i'd use shim stock between the base and machine to level it perfect. my machine has adjustable feet on the stand and i was able to adjust it perfect that way. it sounds like yours is going to be bolted to the floor so the shim stock is going to be your best bet. i would use actual metal shims, not 3x5 cards as they will probably decompose with coolant or oil. i don't know if you can buy shim stock at hardware stores or auto parts stores but i know you can get it from enco or any of the other industrial suppliers.

I'm really bad about this, and every time a real machinist sees it (I'm getting better, I have an actual specific home for the chuck key, on pegboard, right behind the lathe) I get lectured for it. Bad habits die hard... don't let them start.

i left the key in one time and turned on the machine. it was real close to being real bad. the key came out violently and went between a friend and me. if it hit one of us in the head it would be a trip to the hospital or morgue.

I like the idea of tool hangers on the wall behind the lathe. Little outlines of the tools. So with a glance I can tell if some thing is missing.

Shim stock, enco. Got it.

Get the shim kit. Look like a horseshoe with a tab. They come in many increments...

I like the idea of tool hangers on the wall behind the lathe. Little outlines of the tools. So with a glance I can tell if some thing is missing.

Thats a good idea, seams like most of the lathes I have worked on the head stock becomes a catch-all for tools and materials.

I hate to be the one who brings up safety again but when you put your tools on the wall behind the lathe, be very careful reaching over the spindle. My buddies brother in law is in the final stages of recovery after his glove got caught in a drill press chuck and broke his arm in three places.

Luke

My buddies brother in law is in the final stages of recovery after his glove got caught in a drill press chuck and broke his arm in three places.

Luke

thats why I do NOT wear gloves when operating a press/mill/lathe. It also makes you use a hook to remove cuttings instead of your hand.

thats why I do NOT wear gloves when operating a press/mill/lathe. It also makes you use a hook to remove cuttings instead of your hand.

x2

Our old machinist here at work had his fingertip sewn back on because he tried to hold a piece with a glove to keep it for shaking :shaking:

thats why I do NOT wear gloves when operating a press/mill/lathe. It also makes you use a hook to remove cuttings instead of your hand.

I was always told not to wear gloves when using the above equipment. I never have and have some people stare in wonder when I tell them the same thing.

I can't stand to work in gloves; (another "I know it's bad, but...") I can't even comfortably wear gloves while welding (unless it's TIG, in which case, I Michael Jackson it). I'm a bumbling fumbling retard in gloves--can't pick anything up, have zero fine control, can't feel what I'm doing, takes me five times as long to do stuff... just drives me nuts.

Get the shim kit. Look like a horseshoe with a tab. They come in many increments...

Cool thanks

Thats a good idea, seams like most of the lathes I have worked on the head stock becomes a catch-all for tools and materials.

I hate to be the one who brings up safety again but when you put your tools on the wall behind the lathe, be very careful reaching over the spindle. My buddies brother in law is in the final stages of recovery after his glove got caught in a drill press chuck and broke his arm in three places.

Luke

Good point. Lathe is in a corner, so I will do the peg board on the wall at the tail stock

More questions:

The instructions talk about actually bolting the machine base down to the floor. I was planning on getting some of those expanding inserts and just drill my slab, but I have also been looking at the machine base pads or feet. Big rubber discs 3-4" in diameter and are set up so that you can level the base. The ones I was looking at have a load capacity of 1000lbs each so thats not an issue. The machine base is cast iron.
I have two concernes with using them, one is that even with some big fender washers, its still a small area of the base carring the load and the cast base might crack, and the lathe might tip over.
Are these valid concerns?

Concerning threading. Any good online how to info you can recomend?
I understand the procedure from reading some books I think but dam if I can get it working. Or should I just line everything up and then turn the lathe by hand?
What happened last night is that no matter how hard I tried to engage the half nut right when the thread gauge was lined up correct I would get it just a little different each time. So each deeper pass I would cut off the threads I had made on the previous pass :mad:
For the three people waiting on barrels from me, don't worry I am not practicing on your stuff ;)

I will say, that with the exception of the actual threads, finsihing the end to the correct major diameter, the proper length and shoulder dimensions, its all coming out correct.
I am using the thread specs from silencertalk

My other thought is to make just one pass with the single point and then finish them by hand with a die.

The reason I don't want to cut them with a die flat out is because doing it on the lathe ensures that they are correct to the bore.

keep a die away from your barrel threads:p
here is what i do. i am self taught so it may be wrong/different from what others do:D

for an external thread:

*i set my compound at 30* (handle toward the right so it is feeding in to the left)
*set threading tool to center line of part
*double check you have the gear box set correct for your tpi
*turn the lathe spindle on the slowest speed (mine is 70 rpm)
*touch off the part with your threading tool (i always first back off a ways and feed into the part to make sure all backlash is gone)
*set the cross feed and compound dial rings to zero
*back off the cross feed and move the saddle to the right of the part to be threaded
*move the cross feed back to zero
*advance the compound a few thousandths
*apply some good dark sulfurized cutting oil to the part with an acid brush or wash bottle
*wait for the proper thread dial number to come up and engage the half nut (i have to do it fast and forcefully to make sure it engages at the correct time)
*at the end of the thread simultaneously disengage the half nut and back out the cross feed (this does take some coordination but gets easier with time)
*move the saddle back to the right side of the threaded part and move the cross feed back to zero
*stop the spindle and double check with a leaf type thread gauge that you are at the correct tpi
*restart the spindle
*advance the compound a few more thousandths
*apply more cutting oil
*engage half nut when the proper number comes up again
*simultaneously disengage the half nut and back out the cross feed
*move the saddle back to the right and the cross feed back to zero
*repeat until the proper thread depth is reached.

when i get down to the last few thousandths i will feed with the cross feed to clean up the back side of the thread. if i am starting from scratch i will use the three wire method of measuring the thread. if i have something i am threading it for, i will use that item as the thread gauge if it needs a snug fit.

For the three people waiting on barrels from me, don't worry I am not practicing on your stuff ;)




For a minute there I was begining to wonder if I might end up with a SBR after all :eek:

BTW, are you actually practicing on a barrel, or just raw material? If you need some round bar to practice on, let me know. I've got a bunch of scrap here at work and might be able to get you something

300sniper, try your compound at 29 degrees, and a little more rpm. And though I hate the smell, this cutting oil is awesome: MolyD. Molybdenum disulfide.

Some good info here:
http://www.blackstar-barrels.com/body_gunsmithing_tips%20(082204).html

Trust me, this is awesome for steel and ss. Don't use on aluminum, it can stain.

And this is the shiznit for aluminum

300sniper, try your compound at 29 degrees, and a little more rpm. And though I hate the smell, this cutting oil is awesome: MolyD. Molybdenum disulfide.

Some good info here:
http://www.blackstar-barrels.com/body_gunsmithing_tips%20(082204).html


i always wondered why some people recommended 29-1/2* and it just now clicked in my head why. i guess this is still cleaning up the back side of the thread as it is cutting the front. so you think 29* would be better than 29-1/2?

i think i have enough coordination to try speeding up my rpm. next time i am down at the shop i'll give it a try. just about everything i do is threaded up to a shoulder and still makes me nervous. what speed do you thread at on a manual lathe?

Great info guys. Thanks

I'm a hack ! But I've got a lot of heart. lol

Trust me, this is awesome for steel and ss. Don't use on aluminum, it can stain.


I hate the smell also but man is that stuff like magic in a bottle!!

I actually prefer tap magic aluminum

http://www.tapmagic.com/TMaluminum.htm

I actually am doing 300s method, with a 29* angle.
70rpm, 28tpi
My problem is engaging the half nut at the right point. Just need more practice.

I am using an old POS FAL barrel to practice on.

If you're going up to a shoulder, run it upside down, and backwards, from the shoulder out. No worries :) I would relieve the thread at the shoulder too. As far as rpm, the faster (to a point) the better. For a manual, obviously you can only go as fast as your reflexes allow. 29 or 29 1/2, it serves the same purpose, and your thread won't care.

I actually prefer tap magic aluminum

http://www.tapmagic.com/TMaluminum.htm

Then you havn't tried A-9. :flipoff2:

If you're going up to a shoulder, run it upside down, and backwards, from the shoulder out. No worries :) I would relieve the thread at the shoulder too. As far as rpm, the faster (to a point) the better. For a manual, obviously you can only go as fast as your reflexes allow. 29 or 29 1/2, it serves the same purpose, and your thread won't care.


with my style threading inserts, i'd have to use my internal threading tool right side up but on the back side of the part so i could get to the shoulder.

i have read debates about running the threading tool upside down and the lifting effects on the jibs. this may have just been machinists debating just to debate like we do about sch40 pipe vs. hrew though. what are your thoughts on that?

On most used machines, they've spent their whole lives in forward, pushing down. So sometime in reverese, lifting up, these machines are tighter than they normally are. I was working on an older machine, and no matter what else I did, I was getting chatter in a groove. My last ditch effort was to flip and run upside downn. Worked like a charm. In Poland and eastern europe, that is the standard way, and we are "upside down and backwards". Regardless, in difficult situations, you got to use your noodle to problem solve. Believe me, that is mild compared to some rigging I've done.

I have read about running the lathe backwards, feed out, and bit facing down. Seems like a good idea.

I am still playing with it, didn't really have time to try again last night.

i did get to blend in a muzzle brake though on a bbl GZ had turned for me.
The brakes are made over size. I had to set back the shoulder just a tad, so that when tightened down the ports were correct. Then turned the brake until it was a perfect match to the bbl. Very, very tight seem between the brake and barrel. This one is getting duracoated and I doubt it will be seen when I am done.

So for my first paying job on the full size lathe I am pretty happy.

I have a 1.25 dia .30 1:10 twist blank staring at me. I need to get the threading down pat, but this is for FAL HB precision rifle I am working up.

Oh and for anyone interested in the CMMG carbine piston conversion kits, I have a way to make them work with midlength gas system using a reworked FAl gas piston.

I also have this stack of DOM and boxes of sten and suomi kits. I do not have a demo letter yet, but I can do all the SBR and silencer type stuff I want.
I think I am about to cross into a new line of gunfawkery. :evil:

i did get to blend in a muzzle brake though on a bbl GZ had turned for me.
The brakes are made over size. I had to set back the shoulder just a tad, so that when tightened down the ports were correct. Then turned the brake until it was a perfect match to the bbl. Very, very tight seem between the brake and barrel. This one is getting duracoated and I doubt it will be seen when I am done.


That one sounds SWEET! How bout some pics? :flipoff2:

That one sounds SWEET! How bout some pics? :flipoff2:

Duracoating today. Will snap a pic of the final product.

This will have to suffice. 1.25"x36" I should just thread, chamber and mount as is to the FAL. Dam thing weighs 11lbs according to my postal scale

http://www.evilblackrifleshop.com/images/builds/barrel.jpg

Oh and for anyone interested in the CMMG carbine piston conversion kits, I have a way to make them work with midlength gas system using a reworked FAl gas piston.

Prove it:flipoff2:

This will have to suffice. 1.25"x36" I should just thread, chamber and mount as is to the FAL. Dam thing weighs 11lbs according to my postal scale

http://www.evilblackrifleshop.com/images/builds/barrel.jpg

you are going to use a truck axle for a fal barrel?:flipoff2:

I keep hoping to see a picture of my barrel :(

I keep hoping to see a picture of my barrel :(

I am still learning...trust me you don't want me threading yet.
Keep trying this week and hopefully soon

I will have my own lathe soon. I'll be back in business by then end of the month.

I am still learning...trust me you don't want me threading yet.
Keep trying this week and hopefully soon

Sounds good

Duracoating today. Will snap a pic of the final product.

This will have to suffice. 1.25"x36" I should just thread, chamber and mount as is to the FAL. Dam thing weighs 11lbs according to my postal scale

http://www.evilblackrifleshop.com/images/builds/barrel.jpg

"bitchin"

:grinpimp: This will make a killer brush gun :laughing: :flipoff2:

Hey Pete think you might be able to whip this up for me? Stock AK gas piston shortened to 2.25" For my 9mm AK, this one kinda works but to shorten it I cut the end off, drilled a hole in it, stuck it on the remaining stub and welded in place. The hole in the middle of the piston head is slightly off center and I think it is causing some binding. A regular, take off piston will work, I dont need a US one.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/AK%20build/39e3015b.jpg

Sorry to drag this back from the past. I find my self in a similar situation. Would like to get my hands on a lathe before the end of the tax year. Now that you have used this one for a year would you recommend it?

Yes.
Obviously I am not a production type shop. So its working perfect for me.
The only thing it doesn't have that would make threading easier is the ability to sping the head stock the opposite direction.
70rpm has been great for doing threads.
I have gotten good at setting up the 4-jaw

Thank you. Do you see any advantage to http://precisionmatthews.com/PM1236Lathe.html over the grizzly? Does the coolant system really come into play for misc gun smith work? Also, the Matthews one specifically list the ability to turn tapers does the grizzly one do that out the box, or is there an add on fixture that allows it to?

Foot brake and coolant system are nice additions.
You definitely want the coolant doing chambers.
The Grizz does do tapers.
1.5" spindle bore is pretty good for barrel work.
Slightly lower RPM is good. I have never used my 1400rpm, not sure if the higher speeds on this one mean much. But slow is good for threading.
18 speeds, mine is 9
4-way tool post - mine is 2
Looks like it my be easy to change the feed rates.
Price Includes shipping, not to AK, but for anyone else looking.

I just have never heard of the company. If it's reliable I say thats a better deal then the grizzly.
And if I was shopping for one today I would research thecompany and probably buy this versus the grizz.

:eek: $3k for a benchtop lathe? Are auctions that rare for y'all that you can't find a nice condition 24" Leblond or Mori for that much?

I wish mine had coolant. I wouldn't put DRO on a non production lathe. If I was I'd spring for a Newal though.
Ill be buying a new ( bigger ) machine in the next year or so. Right now I'm
shopping for a mill

:eek: $3k for a benchtop lathe? Are auctions that rare for y'all that you can't find a nice condition 24" Leblond or Mori for that much?

I looked and wasn't able to find much. THis was an end of year, tax related purchase for me. Had to order it by 12/31
I also got 6 months no paymnets, no interest.

But yeah if I could have found something in the same price range I would have grabbed it no problem.

Right now I'm
shopping for a mill


Same

Thank you. Do you see any advantage to http://precisionmatthews.com/PM1236Lathe.html over the grizzly? Does the coolant system really come into play for misc gun smith work? Also, the Matthews one specifically list the ability to turn tapers does the grizzly one do that out the box, or is there an add on fixture that allows it to?

i don't see it listed on the link you provided but the 13x40 pm lathe looks like the taper attachment is included. that could be handy but i wouldn't spend much extra for it unless i had a specific need. short tapers can be done on any lathe by using the compound. i have had my lathe for a couple years now and have never even bothered filling the coolant reservoir. it makes enough mess by just manually applying cutting oil. i think you would be spending more time mopping the shop floor with flood coolant on an open manual machine than you would be making chips.

the 13x40 precision matthews lathe has some really nice features and a decent price. if i were to start over again today and buy an import, i'd get this one and include a dro: http://precisionmatthews.com/PM1330-1340Lathe.html

:eek: $3k for a benchtop lathe? Are auctions that rare for y'all that you can't find a nice condition 24" Leblond or Mori for that much?

I have been looking all year, been to all the major (and most minor) auctions hasn't been a single one all year. I really don't want to buy one from a lower-48 auction without inspecting it. I am trying to purchase on this tax year, so I am basically out of time. The craigslist ones seem to be way over priced.

the 13x40 precision matthews lathe has some really nice features and a decent price. if i were to start over again today and buy an import, i'd get this one and include a dro: http://precisionmatthews.com/PM1330-1340Lathe.html

I am buying a machine to learn on so my knowledge base is non-existent. Would it be possible for you to expand on which features stick out to you on the 13x40? It is $800 more and my inexperienced eye can only find a few small differences.

Shape

Why ? Link ?

i have had my lathe for a couple years now and have never even bothered filling the coolant reservoir. it makes enough mess by just manually applying cutting oil. i think you would be spending more time mopping the shop floor with flood coolant on an open manual machine than you would be making chips.


I use coolant on the machines at work. One less thing to do with my hands if its intricate or heavy work. I'd love it at home.
I also would like better choices when it comes to insert tooling. My tool post has a 5/8" opening. I'd like to be able to use TP2000 and such

I use coolant anytime it is available...just makes things easier to work with...

Why ? Link ?


Teach me to post while on the phone

"same"

Teach me to post while on the phone

"same"

:laughing: