I like to try the oddball mods just to see if they work. Any input would be great.I want to swap axle tubes and related parts side to side on a hp d44 to make it into a pass. side drop by removeing the axle tubes at the housing and reinstalling them opposite the way they are now and swapping outer knuckles ect. so the brakes and steering arms face correctly so it can be put under my 88 ramcharger with a203/205 doubler set up. I know a d60 from a dodge is a better swap but I have the diff and like a chalange. I have the skills, tools, ect. to do the job ,I just want to know if anyone has done this before, any problem areas or serious drawbacks? Im not looking to get flamed on just some honest input.

it can be done, take your time. when you rush it, you'll fawk it up. take lots of measurements before you start so the axle shafts will fit when your done too.

wow i wish i had that much time on my hands :flipoff2:

wow i wish i had that much time on my hands :flipoff2:
It,s not that I have that much time on my hands I do this for a living! I have a machine shop and have built more thn 10 rear stear d60,s I also build long travel drive shafts and narrow rears for drag cars and people that want full size difs without the wide width of a full size d60 or 14 bolt chevy. my current job is a 92 4 runner with all chevy d-train 203/205 doubler 5.38s sm465 and vortec V6 with a intercooled paxton. just one of the perks of living in humboldt! people have MONEY to blow on things like this.

It will be hard to get the D44 to live with a doubler and any decent motor. I have the 203/205 in my EB with a warmed up 351w and even with chromo's I have to be easy running a 35" Bogger.

It is not that bad. I built 2 a few years ago & they are still living pushing 37's.

Passenger side is easy. Just cut it down to the correct length & install C. The drivers side was a bit tougher. I used a plasma to cut out the welds & welded a cap on the end of the tube. Then I took a bar& slid the HP housing over it & used the housing like a slide hammer- ( think of pounding in fence posts). I had the passenger tube out in about half an hour. When you install the new tube make sure you machine it for the inner axle seal.

- One perk of being a High School teacher is having full access to the shop:D.

I retubed one side and cut down the other, seemed to make more sense since both were getting narrowed.

It is not that bad. I built 2 a few years ago & they are still living pushing 37's.

Passenger side is easy. Just cut it down to the correct length & install C. The drivers side was a bit tougher. I used a plasma to cut out the welds & welded a cap on the end of the tube. Then I took a bar& slid the HP housing over it & used the housing like a slide hammer- ( think of pounding in fence posts). I had the passenger tube out in about half an hour. When you install the new tube make sure you machine it for the inner axle seal.

- One perk of being a High School teacher is having full access to the shop:D.
Thanks for the input with out a flame job!I like the fence post annalagy. what I was originaly thinking was to mill out the spot welds at the center section and pulling the tubes out turning them down a bit to fit back into the center section and rewelding them. I have a fixture that is a 1.25 solid cromo round bar threaded on both ends with caps machined to fit the openings the axle come out at the c,s to keep everything perfectly true then swaping short and long side axles outters and related parts. this way the inner seals will not be a problem to put back in.I can also adj. caster and pinion angle at the same time. this is how I do my rear steers and narrow jobs, I,ve just never tried it on a front axle. tell me what you think of this method.Its nice to here from someone with some positive input.I,ll let you know how it works. as a teacher I hope some kids pick up on your skills. As soon as I,m done with the 4 runner with all chevy d train 4.3 with intercooled paxton. sm 465 203/205 d70r d60 f 5.38,s 4linked f and r boat sided ect on 37,sand the customer wants it dove tailed Idon,t think that is gona happen on a runner too much cuttin. and yes it,s a trailer rider to get to the wheelin but lifes a bitch. my buddy is a fire fighter out of willits so maybey I,l see you on the trail. peace from humboldt!

I have found the plug welds to be harder than a whore's heart. (that is why I gave up & used plasma)

If you have an alignment bar you might consider cutting the drivers side off a few inches from the diff, sleeve it and weld up your new tube.

One of the HP housings I narrowed was from an early 70's ford with kingpins. We used a chevy D44 for the tubes and it worked perfect.


Let me know how it turns out.

I have found the plug welds to be harder than a whore's heart. (that is why I gave up & used plasma)

If you have an alignment bar you might consider cutting the drivers side off a few inches from the diff, sleeve it and weld up your new tube.

One of the HP housings I narrowed was from an early 70's ford with kingpins. We used a chevy D44 for the tubes and it worked perfect.


Let me know how it turns out.
We must know some of the same whores! I have a vertical mill and tungsten carbide cutting heads but they are too exspensive to exspirement with I like the sleeve idea, it will get the job done and keep the seal surfaces intact and I,m sure the jig will work just as well to hold the outer c,s perfectly square and the sleeved tube at the same time. thanks again for the input ,I,ll send pics when its done. I want to get my own down pat before I start selling them. the hpd44 I,m starting with is a 77 1/2 8lug from a F250 if it makes any differance.

You should only have to completely retube one side.

You should only have to completely retube one side.
I was trying to avoid having to do any welding at the outer c,s as this it a very high stress area. It is alot stronger to do the welding at the center section I,m aware the plug welds are hard but between a plasma cutter and vetical mill I managed to get the tubes out and turned down and pressed back in I,ve tripple messured my axle shafts and they are perfect on the short side and 1/8 to long on the long side. After cristmas I will machine the extra off clean the splines up and set the pinion angle and caster with a howe gauge made for setting up stock cars , when I,m sure its all correct I,ll weld it all up its tacked now, and have it checked for straitness so far it,s been a lot easeyer than anyone seemed to think.and several people have stood in my shop and tyied to figure out what the hell kind or diff it is,when I tell them I just get a funny look out of them.