Picked up this "blank slate" Mauser to turn into a .338 Federal.

Like most of the Yugo Mausers, this one is a large ring short action or intermediate action. Short action because its shorter than a standard 98 pattern Mauser (7-5/8" between the action screws instead of 7-13/16"). Its also called an intermediate length because its longer than a "true" short action. Because of the length, one might run into some trouble turning one of these Mausers into .30-06 or other long action round.

The ideal length round for this action would be a 8x57, 7x57, 6.5x55, 257 Roberts or any other Mauser based wildcat. Short action rounds will also work well, especially if longer, low drag bullets that will push OAL beyond spec are in the plans.

Below you can see the mismatched hand guard, the action, and the Yugo sitting next to my bull-barreled .308 Mauser 98.

Cool.. Whats scoop on the bull barrel .308?

The scope is a Burris Fullfield 30 3-9x40.

I started on my action wrench today. If you are too lazy to make your own, you can buy one. (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=719310)

I machined a recess into the lower "jaw" to fit around the recoil lug. This step wasn't all that necessary, but I figured I might as well. This way, the upper "jaw" has full contact on the top of the receiver. All it needs now is a big handle and a wider aluminum shim.

Any sources out there for Mauser actions? Think I want to build one this year..

When I was looking for one, I couldnt find one cheaper than a complete Yugo. AIM is out of the yugo's now, but JG sales has some as well as some Czech VZ-24s which is are full length 98s. Otherwise, browse gunbroker.

I made a set of wood blocks like these (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=248002) by drilling a 15/16" hole in a chunk of oak and then cutting it in half. I put the barrel between the blocks and put it in the shop press and smashed it until I could feel a good bit of resistance pumping the handle. (I wrapped some electrical tape around the barrel for grip too). The action came free without too much trouble. I didn't have my camera with me, otherwise I would have taken some pictures of the setup.

Next, I drilled and tapped it for the scope mount. I used a one piece Leupold mount. (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=575356) I like the looks of the two-piece mounts a little better, and they make it easier to load, but the one piece mounts are so much easier to align and square. I picked up one of these. (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=293476) It includes a good drill bit and a US made tap, both of which cut smoothly and cleanly.

BTW: Sarco, Inc. has some Mauser 98 actions for $97.50

Also, when lining up the mount, avoid drilling the middle hole through the locking lug.

Well, I think I am caving to peer pressure. 7mm-08 has been deemed "too mundane" for the time and effort that is going into this rifle. Also, since I already have a .308 Mauser, I am not really gaining anything in going to 7mm-08. Therefore, I have decided on a different round....... .338 Federal.

For those who do not know, its a .308 necked up. It gives 7mm Mag energy in a short action round and I can make the brass easily by sizing 308 brass.

I'm most likely going with a Shaw barrel on this.

looks cool

I installed a new bolt handle that will clear the scope. I used one of these: http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=123939 that I cut to fit and welded to the leftover "stub" from the original bolt handle that I cut off.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=414150&stc=1&d=1231614110

I had to cut a notch into the receiver for the new bolt handle. I wanted to keep the handle as close to the bolt body as possible in order to maximize scope clearance.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=414151&stc=1&d=1231614110

Another angle:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=414152&stc=1&d=1231614110

Bolt closed:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=414153&stc=1&d=1231614110

Bolt open:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=414154&stc=1&d=1231614110

Nice work on the handle.

Did you do anything to minimize the heat when welding? I have been thinking about doing the same on my Mauser build but the book I have says the receiver should be reheat treated after welding on it. Even with using heat paste or other method to keep the heat down.

Or is it really not a big deal?

If you weld on the receiver, yes, you will ruin the case hardening. On the bolt, with a wet rag you are far enough from the "critical" locking lugs and will most likely be fine.

If you weld on the receiver, yes, you will ruin the case hardening. On the bolt, with a wet rag you are far enough from the "critical" locking lugs and will most likely be fine.

Cool! Looks like I can tackle that then. That notch you cut would act as kind of a safety lug as well as being low profile. Good idea

why .338 instead of .270 or a 'small' caliber?

looks good, btw. I need to find a welder so I can do gunfuckery, instead of my ancient arc welder...

why .338 instead of .270 or a 'small' caliber?

looks good, btw. I need to find a welder so I can do gunfuckery, instead of my ancient arc welder...

As I said before, I already have a .308 mauser, so I'm going bigger and badder. 270 or any 30-06 based cartridge is really too long for this action, so that is a contributing factor.

That is sexy. my next bolt gun will be based on the 98 action. Is that a houge stock on the .308? that .338 federal sounds hot, if its comparable with 7mm magnum it will do well, and the heavier bullet will help you down range.

The .338 Federal isnt the most popular cartridge, probably because until recently, it was found primarily in $1000 Kimber 84M's. The cheapest factory rifle even now is a $600 Tikka.

Im betting things like this: http://www.dpmsinc.com/firearms/firearm.aspx?id=50 will boost the popularity though.

The stock is a choate. I chose it because its very light weight and it was easy to inlet for the bull barrel. The Choate has its own mag built in, so the heavy 98 stuff isnt used, which makes it even lighter.

Got a bit more done over the weekend.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=417401&stc=1&d=1232935167

I added an FN-style bolt shroud. (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=575813) and a Bold trigger with a side safety. (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=329361)

The bolt shroud gives it a clean, low-profile look. The only modification I had to make was making clearance for the new safety, which can be seen below.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=417402&stc=1&d=1232935167

I ordered my stock. I ordered a cascade classic from Richard's Micro-fit: http://www.rifle-stocks.com/cascade_classic.htm

They are one of only a few places that makes stocks for the intermediate large-ring mausers. I chose brown/brown laminate, which is currently on sale. The lady on the phone said a couple weeks :smokin:

I got my stock yesterday.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=420432&stc=1&d=1234032227

Looks really good, I like the way this thing is going! I wish I could do work like that. I hate the stock, goofy safety on my m96 and would like to ditch it, as well as going with a smoother, lighter pull trigger.

oh man that stock looks nice. how much work do you have to do to finish it out?
the last stock i did the guy said minimal fitting requierd, yeah right.
i had about 20 hours into it till i was happy

The stock is far from finished, I have about 6 hours in it now, and several to go, but I knew that ahead of time. The only thing I regret is not having Richard's install the recoil pad for me :shaking:

I had to open the action inlet in front of the receiver a bit, open up the trigger guard a little, cut the bolt notch, cut cut the safety notch, and install the recoil pad. I still have to sand the entire thing (its rough cut) and round the forend and put sling studs in. I can't finish it until my barrel is installed to make sure the channel is correct either.

Here is how it sits now:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=420511&stc=1&d=1234068013

I test fitted the scope with some 30mm Burris rings from Midway. Cheek wield is perfect and the bolt handle clearance is perfect :smokin:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=420512&stc=1&d=1234068013

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=436726&stc=1&d=1239927447

My barrel finally came in!! I had them long chamber it so I didn't have to buy a reamer. I ended up taking .005" off of the breech and the shoulder.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=436727&stc=1&d=1239927447

Here you can see the action wrench in use and my barrel vise setup, which are maple blocks in a shop press.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=436728&stc=1&d=1239927447

The checking the headspace with a no-go gage:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=436729&stc=1&d=1239927447

I had to open up the barrel channel in the stock a little to get it to fit. I just bedded the front recoil lug area and the rear tang area and I am waiting for it to cure. I'll pull it apart tomorrow evening and see how it looks.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=436730&stc=1&d=1239927447

from post 12 down, all i see is red x's

they work for me

Looks pretty good. Are you going to true the bolt fact and locking lugs?

Looks pretty good. Are you going to true the bolt fact and locking lugs?

No. If I was going to do it, the time to do it is before it is headspaced.

No. If I was going to do it, the time to do it is before it is headspaced.

Wasn't quite sure if you had permanently put the barrel in yet or not. I

For some extra bling, I put a Talley barrel band on for a front sling mount.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=438368&stc=1&d=1240765836

The barrel band mount does two things: it looks badass and makes the rifle slung lower when carried over the shoulder. Installation is a simple sweat-on.

I finished the metal with Lauer manganese phosphate and oiled it. The wood got some "English Chestnut" stain and several coats of linseed oil, followed by a couple coats of Dem-Bart gun stock wax.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=438369&stc=1&d=1240765836

I don't know about everywhere else, but its windy here. I still had to try it out, This is the best of the day: 5 shots, 100 yds.

It looks great. Nice job :beer: