I've been tossing around the Idea of using the Coil spring suspension setup from a pre 73 GM 2 wheel drives but replacing the coils with airbags and putting the link arms on top of the axle and building a longer stouter track bar and beefing up/Replacing the link arms I'm looking for a fairly flexy suspension thats load adjustable ( and ride height )

Cole Quineel , the former edititor of Petersons did this (minus airbags )when he converted a 64 chevy half ton 2-wheel to a 3/4 ton 4-wheel

has any one else done this?? any problems with my idea? I know alot of people would say "why bother just 4-link it " but a 4 link is just a little beyond my skill level at this time and a Little more money than I want to invest in this rig

The rig is 76 chevy K20 crewcab , which will be getting CUCV axles ,44" boggers, TBI 454, SM465/NP203/NP205 doubler . that will be back halved with an exo/roof rack setup. 56" front springs on dropped hangers , and Liberal Sawzall work

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g190/yellowk20/116zn7.jpg


Ok Flame away at my ignorance

you have 2wd and 4wd suspension confused and 67-72 gen mixed with 73+ suspension.


not a horrible idea but you will be far better off just swaping the front leafs out for 52" and shackle flip in the rear.



edit: i just re read your post, WTF!! you have a well buit list but its not the pic you posted, and if you go from what you have listed to what your are trying to do you should be shot.

no no this is the truck I'm gonna build , Im want to use the arms from a 60-72 GM 2-wheeldrive THE REAR SUSPENSION ARMS

Also I'm back halving the truck and making the wheelbase shorter with zero overhang http://www.brotherstrucks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RCA72HD

again. dont bother. you will get better suspension out of leaf springs.


with 56" springs at each corner you will have over 50" of flex to use!!!!

i have 52" up front and 56" rear, i hve 46" -/+ of flex and i can get more if i changed my front axle shackle and lengthen the brakelines.

again. dont bother. you will get better suspension out of leaf springs.


yeah , but even if I ran reveresd 56" I'd still have over hang that I dont want

I might need to 4link but that whole Idea freaks me out . I can weld decent and have acces to all the tools but designing the links and making it work correctly is abit beyond me. I wanna build a duplicate of this Bedcage for my rig

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g190/yellowk20/suspension004a.jpg

you have 44"

with 56" springs you will have 85* angle with about 4" hang............



look, i am not trying to convince you that you must go leafs, it would be a hell of a lot easier and more functional if you did based on your current idea.

if you want to copy bgreens rig go for it, but youll notice that he doesnt run the susp you want, i wonder why............

I'm not new to leafs My old truck had 56" up front and 63" outback and flexed really well but It was a longbed reg cab .

The crewcab needs come help in the length department . also its gonna be a dual purpose rig for short trips and camping so I'd like to be able to adjust the suspension for load
it'll end up Full hydro steering and will be trailered ( believe it or not Alaska has some strict lift laws)

I'd like to pick brooks brain a bit more . I'm not anywhere near the capabilities of him but I want something better than leafs but don't think I could hack a 4-link

I dont wanna copy brooks rig I want a less extreme rig I just really like his bedcage and it fits what I want to do with my truck

build a 4link, it aint hard.
that being said, the trick with those old chevy radius arms is that they can flex and twist, so do not "beef them up".
the more you beef them up the less likely they are to flex enough to allow suspension roll/articulation.

build a 4link, it aint hard.
that being said, the trick with those old chevy radius arms is that they can flex and twist, so do not "beef them up".
the more you beef them up the less likely they are to flex enough to allow suspension roll/articulation.


ok well thats the kind of info I was wanting to hear about
Maybe I need to study up on 4-links

my main problem with 4-links is all the "heims" joints and Bracketry and trying to guess what my angles and all the other shit needs to be

ok well thats the kind of info I was wanting to hear about
Maybe I need to study up on 4-links

my main problem with 4-links is all the "heims" joints and Bracketry and trying to guess what my angles and all the other shit needs to be

Download Triaged's 4 link calculator and learn from some of the 4 link builds here.

For example.http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=437646

A 4 link will work much better than that truck arm suspension you posted and may end up saving you some money.

for once, I agree with Odin, use Triaged's calculator. it works. take the time to measure EVERYTHING from the vehicle while setting at desired ride height, with an axle on jackstands before you cut anything, or buy any parts/tube.

sure, you could use the trailing arms from an early truck. if you do, be aware that the numbers for antisquat for trailing arms means that the truck will LIFT the rear *(suspension will separate) on acceleration when the trailing arms are above the centerline of the axle. this doesnt help you.

the calculator is free. it saves you money. its a good idea.

thats what i got. I run leaf springs in the rear, and I am not unhappy, but my truck is a tad lighter.

air bags will let it articulate. they will not control body roll. thats a must, if you want to keep it on its wheels.

Ok truck arms out, Thanks for the input guys probaly gonna do a Quickie leafspring job to get it wheeling this summer gonna do a DIY shackle flip with reversed 56" and hope the spring wrap is livable .

In the mean time I'll study up on 4-links and start gathering parts (and find a House with a Garage to do it in)

Would I need a Sway bar to run Airbags???? if I 4-link I may just spring for Coilovers

sway bar no, track bar yes.

i belive this is the look your shotting for right :D
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb5/twoslo4five0/newwork-1.jpg

and yes thoose are 2.0s if anyone is wondering and yes im only running 800 lbs
of unsprung weight...im running 3/4 heims on the uppers and 7/8s on the lowers.king air shocks...my link material is 1 3/4 .250 wall...the truck is 120 in wheelbase with about 16 inches of the frame lost

i belive this is the look your shotting for right :D
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb5/twoslo4five0/newwork-1.jpg

and yes thoose are 2.0s if anyone is wondering and yes im only running 800 lbs
of unsprung weight...im running 3/4 heims on the uppers and 7/8s on the lowers.king air shocks...my link material is 1 3/4 .250 wall...the truck is 120 in wheelbase with about 16 inches of the frame lost



Yeah, more or less but I dont think I could get away with Airshocks I think I'll be to heavy . I'm looking to have the wheelbase of a Shortbed Crewcab but with little to no overhang My figuring is that my breakover is gonna gonna bring the suck so I need to make up for it in other places

you MIGHT be able to get away with air shocks if you run 2.5s but that drives up the cost alot...here is where i got mine from they seem to have the best prices around...no matter what link suspention u build your gonna need to figure your unsprung and sprung weight and be honest about it...its better to be over than under

downsouthmotorsports.com

I'm gonna be pushing 7500 pounds when its all fueled up and loaded down with a weeks worth of gear and 4 people So I think I'm gonna stick with Coilovers or airbags

Could a guy take an IFS torsion bar and build a swaybar?? or are they to stiff?