Finally after more than a year of removing, restoring, and rebuilding parts I'm nearing tte completion of the frame off resto on my Bj40.

Next week the body comes of again to go to the sandblaster. So hopefully it will be the last time I'll have a rolling frame without the body on it ( at least for some years).

What i've already done:

-Frame sandblasted, and painted with POR- 15.
-Removed the badly rusted rear bumper and rear X-member and replaced it with homemade parts.
-New U bolts, shackles and shackle bolts
-Shackle reversal (didn't flip the spring, redrilled the second leaf and flipped that to keep the military wrap on the spring hanger.)
-Reinforced the front frame horns with 5mm plating (0.2")
-Body was sandblasted, and rear bed, door sill, quarter panels, rocker panels, ... was replaced with new sheet metal.
-Installed front discs and rebuild the knuckles.
- And lot's off other small stuff i've fixed or replaced.
- J60 power steering will be installed before the body comes back on.
- body will be sandblasted again and treated to prevent rust and then painted

So my question is what have I forgotten?? Don't wan't to put the body back on and then realize that i've forgotten something!!

Inspect tranny, T-case, clutch...
Relocate the T-case vent higher with a pipe in the upper engine bay,

Relocate the nasty exhaust pipe all the way INSIDE the frame.
I mean : between the rails, not inside the boxing :flipoff2:

Only know very little about engine/tranny,... mechanics, so I'm not able to inspect all that stuff myself.
And I'm planning to upgrade to a newer, more powerfull toy diesel engine soon so I'm not gonna put money in rebuilding the engine/tranny. It should be fine since the whole engine was rebuilt couple of years ago (said the previous owner, don't know if it's the truth). And I put in a new clutch about 1500km before i started the frame off resto.

What is a t case vent, and where do I find it?? (i know I'm stupid :flipoff2: )

What diameter tube should i use for an exhaust? Can i just bend some exhaust pipe and make it go straight to the rear with some cheap aftermarket muffler? Or will this have some effect on the (little as it is) performance of my B engine?? Should i be worried if the exhaust comes close to the fuel tank??

If you are going all the way, replace all the brake and fuel lines. At lease flush them to make sure there are not any "funk" in them.

Keep the faith!!! I just wheeled mine last month after a year and half of build up.

Show us some pics.

Mmmh, do mean you're upgrading the tranny, too ?
Be careful if you want to go 5 speed, this one is 4" longer or so, you'd have clearance issues with the crossmember, and the cab floor.

Anyway, an inspection costs nothing, and can prevent some very bad surprises later. Just unbolt the doors, and check for wear on the gears, the dog teethed clutches, play at the shafts etc. etc. If you don't spot anything obvious, you're probably safe. If you have some concerns and cannot do a diagnosis, just post a picture of what you're concerned with. Pretty much all the prts are esily spottable without taking the boxes apart.
Did you notice something wrong with your levels ? The t-case oil could be draining to the tranny, in which case you'd need to replace the seal inbetween. I'd do it anyways since it's a common annoying problem, and while you don't have the body in your way, should be dead simple.

The t-case vent is the little breather on top of the top plate, which lets the t-case breathe when pressure grows, so that you don't blow your seals. If you're planning on sinking your cruiser deep in water or mud, it's better if the breather is out of water's way, so that water doesn't get in, or mud doesn't stuff it.
Doing the same with the axles is probably a good idea, but it can still be done after the body is on...

As far as the exhaust goes, you don't need to go bigger than your manifold dia.. A bigger dia. manifold may improve prefs. slightly, but the exhaust pipe itself is not much restrictive... until it's bent flat between frame and rocks...
I don't remember what the stock routing is, but I figure you could avoid getting too close to the tank. The really important thing is it mustn't pass under the frame anymore. I don't really think you need something else than the stock muffler...

Bye,

Originally posted by warpdriv
If you are going all the way, replace all the brake and fuel lines. At lease flush them to make sure there are not any "funk" in them.

Keep the faith!!! I just wheeled mine last month after a year and half of build up.

Show us some pics.

I'm planning on making new feul and brake lines, my 4x4 dealer gor the tools for making these new lines and i can use them for free.

Attached a pic of how it looks now.

Originally posted by stupid frnch jackass [/i]
"Mmmh, do mean you're upgrading the tranny, too ?
Be careful if you want to go 5 speed, this one is 4" longer or so, you'd have clearance issues with the crossmember, and the cab floor."
Haven't really looked into this, I don't know wich engine will bolt up to my tranny, got any info on this??


"Anyway, an inspection costs nothing, and can prevent some very bad surprises later. Just unbolt the doors, and check for wear on the gears, the dog teethed clutches, play at the shafts etc. etc. If you don't spot anything obvious, you're probably safe. If you have some concerns and cannot do a diagnosis, just post a picture of what you're concerned with. Pretty much all the prts are esily spottable without taking the boxes apart.
Did you notice something wrong with your levels ? The t-case oil could be draining to the tranny, in which case you'd need to replace the seal inbetween. I'd do it anyways since it's a common annoying problem, and while you don't have the body in your way, should be dead simple."
Haven't checked my levels :-), but will change all the fluids before the engine goes back in to the frame, and I probably will change the seal too.

"The t-case vent is the little breather on top of the top plate, which lets the t-case breathe when pressure grows, so that you don't blow your seals. If you're planning on sinking your cruiser deep in water or mud, it's better if the breather is out of water's way, so that water doesn't get in, or mud doesn't stuff it.
Doing the same with the axles is probably a good idea, but it can still be done after the body is on..."
Will do this, is it as simple as just taking the cap of and attaching a rubber line to it and routing it into the engine compartiment?

"As far as the exhaust goes, you don't need to go bigger than your manifold dia.. A bigger dia. manifold may improve prefs. slightly, but the exhaust pipe itself is not much restrictive... until it's bent flat between frame and rocks...
I don't remember what the stock routing is, but I figure you could avoid getting too close to the tank. The really important thing is it mustn't pass under the frame anymore. I don't really think you need something else than the stock muffler..."
I don't have a bender so i was planning on making the exhaust straight, I'll see how it works out once i put the engine back in.

Haven't really looked into this, I don't know wich engine will bolt up to my tranny, got any info on this??


Any B series should bolt right on. I have a small doubt though for the 13BT, which might have a different clutch. Right now I'm thinking about cannibalizing the BJ42 I'm buying, and swap in the 3.4 3B in my BJ40. I'll add a turbo at the same time :rolleyes:


Will do this, is it as simple as just taking the cap of and attaching a rubber line to it and routing it into the engine compartiment?


Yep. It's probably a good idea to put the small cap at the end of the pipe, so that dust/water definately not goes in.


I don't have a bender so i was planning on making the exhaust straight, I'll see how it works out once i put the engine back in.

You can buy some flexible exhaust pipe, and form it the way you want. After a few thermic cycles, it won't be flexible anymore, anyway you don't need it to be still flexible either.

Good luck, and keep us up-to-date plz.

Bye,