: Link material and sizes


Canyonmann
01-01-2009, 10:27 PM
I appriciate the guidence and don't want to do this over or wish I had done it different.

LINKS
If aluminum (very sexy). I like the colors but I'm afraid they would look worse once all scratched up. I guess you could rattle can them. I believe aluminum is more flexy but hard to repair on the trail. Surprisingly reasonable price compared to DOM. Poly Performance makes some nice ones! I would have to be very exact on length cuz you can't just chop off the end of a piece of steel. How do I mock up the length?
How about size? Does it matter (joke)? 2.0 bottom links 1.75, upper front and, 1.50 upper rear.

I don't know about chromoly. Spidertrax makes one for about 150$ a piece, not to bad. I quess DOM is about less tham 1/2 the cost. Does anyone have experience with these spidertrax links or chromoly?

I guess DOM is the old standard, easy to get and use, but its hard for me to price compare because I have not decided on tube size or thickness. I know it's not as flexy or strong as aluminum or chromoly and I don't really thinks it's much cheaper. I know some use sleeved or double tubes, but this isn't as strong as just buying that thickness of tube to start with. So why sleeve if it isn't cheaper or stronger. Would all the tubes need to be the same size? These would easily be touched up with a can but not as cool guy.

Skrewball
01-02-2009, 06:54 AM
i'll tell you what i am running. i am using 21/4x3/8 wall DOM for the lowers and 2x1/4 wall uppers. using the currie Johnny joints(the larger size i don't remember exactly)

Nordic1
01-02-2009, 10:30 AM
If you are worried about how it will 'look' after its been wheeled on, let me sugjest your surf some other offroad website :flipoff2:

Aluminium is cool... But a PITA because you will have to get the links made in a machine shop

Chromoly is cool but don't bother... Chromoly is just as strong as DOM unless you heat treat if after you've welded/threaded the ends on.

Majority of us here use DOM.

I have used and will use again 2x.250 DOM.... Its VERY strong and not that expensive.

But if you have a heavy rig, lots of HP, or plan to drive like an allstar, use thicker walled tubing than .250

l&tcustomsllc
01-02-2009, 02:41 PM
couldnt get any DOM shipped in time for our project but i am using 2X2 .250 wall square tubing. turned out to be cheaper than DOM and they had it in stock so that is what i am using, how ever if you dont like the square look then they wouldnt work.

tmorgan4
01-02-2009, 05:40 PM
couldnt get any DOM shipped in time for our project but i am using 2X2 .250 wall square tubing. turned out to be cheaper than DOM and they had it in stock so that is what i am using, how ever if you dont like the square look then they wouldnt work.

I got my 2"x.250 DOM at CO Iron and Metal and it was in stock. Sounds like you've figured it out already but check there if you haven't. They're kind of pricey at about $15/foot but unless you're buying sticks of it you probably won't find it a ton cheaper.

Nordic1
01-02-2009, 05:49 PM
couldnt get any DOM shipped in time for our project but i am using 2X2 .250 wall square tubing. turned out to be cheaper than DOM and they had it in stock so that is what i am using, how ever if you dont like the square look then they wouldnt work.

2x2x.250 is good stuff... It is seamed and not quite as strong as DOM but still a very usable material

Canyonmann
01-02-2009, 07:19 PM
Thanks for all the input.

I think i'll just order up the 2" .25 wall DOM. Sounds like this would be the easiest and most cost effective. Maybe after I have had chance to test and make sure everthing works well I can order up some cool stuff that saves wieght.

I'm not going to apologize for careing about how my jeep looks or for maintaining it.

This is a little bit of a sore spot for me because I built hot rods all my life an knew many who would not even drive them. I hated cleaning and waxing all the time Id rather use it. I cant wait to scratch it, but i will try my best to keep it a sharp looking rig. Form is never more important than fuction.

Im going to start a thread under general and see how others feel about needing to drive a beet up peice o crap.

Never Monday
01-02-2009, 07:27 PM
2x2x.250 is good stuff... It is seamed and not quite as strong as DOM but still a very usable material

bent that too

TNRanger
01-02-2009, 07:38 PM
or plan to drive like an allstar

I fit in this category... maybe the heavy pig rig too... 2" .375 DOM lowers and the rears look like bananas. I got a weak 5.0 but definitely the all-star attitude.
It definitely varies with link lenth as well. My rear lowers(bent) are about 48" long.

white 99 tj
01-03-2009, 06:33 AM
I'm using 2" and 1 3/4" 1026 DOM.
I got mine FREE from work.
The directional boring rods that Ditch Witch uses are 1026 DOM with Chromolly threaded ends welded on.

Every boring crew has a few bent or broken ones on the trailer. They usually break at the weld area.
A case of beer or a carton of smokes is pretty cheep for 10' of 2" 1/4" wall 1026 DOM.