Finally got started on the YJ spring swap. Gonna be mounting the front spring with the shackle to the rear. Here's some pics of what I've got so far.
http://home.off-road.com/~reilly/frameext1.jpg
http://home.off-road.com/~reilly/frameext2.jpg
http://home.off-road.com/~reilly/frameext5.jpg

:eek:

I think you want to rethink where your going with that design. If you mount the front of the springs that high they are going to slope like crazy by the time they get to the shackle, and its going to give you serious caster problems, not to mention a real beotch of a d-shaft angle.

I came out inline with the frame, which is a slight downhill. While it initially looks like your losing a lot of approach angle it comes out fine, and all of the steering and dshaft geometry is right on the money.

Like this....http://www.sonic.net/jkwaters/images/extplate_small.jpg

Which is fine once you mount the meats!

i concur mr. fish :D

i'd box the spring hangers too.

I know what you mean about the angle, that was a consideration, I've given this alot of thought and looked at your design many times. I made mine shorter and higher though, I'm not looking for as much lift height, I'd rather cut the fenders,
As for the castor, I am going to bolt up the Toyota axle and see how it works, if need be I will redo the spring perches to tilt it back to spec some.
That's not the finished product either, I am going to box the hangers from the front like poppy said, then I am going to notch the middle of the bumper down an inch or so and add a winch plate similar to yours. Some side braces will be addes as well.
Fish, What'd you do for your shackle up front? Did you use the factory spring hanger or make a new one? I'm thinking a heep XJ shackle might fit in the factory hanger and fit the YJ spring, haven't gotten at one with the tape yet though. Thanks for the feedback.
Chris

I agree with scwa and poppy I did similar to yours but I went parrelel to the ground its about 5/8 cut back on top as far as your spring hanger use a cj rear hanger and weld or bolt it to where the stock front /rear mount was and use a 4" on center shackle

I used a cj hanger in the back, mounted to where the old stock tabs were before I ground them off.

The setup I have doesnt give a bunch of lift....my rig is a virtual low-rider for a sami on 35s. My rear fenders are cut, and I got rid of the front fenders all together.

You need the length of the extension to keep the tires off of the firewall at full compression. I moved my axle forward an additional 1.5 inches and chopped and beat the tub and they still kiss.

The final setup looks a lot better when the rig is all together....and approach isnt really a problem, and itll only get better with bigger rubber....but I got where out these first!

You need the length of the extension to keep the tires off of the firewall at full compression. I moved my axle forward an additional 1.5 inches and chopped and beat the tub and they still kiss.

When you say you moved axle forwars 1.5", are you talking 1.5" over stock?
I am already 1" forward and project that the axle will fall about 3" forward from the stock location when I put it in. If the firewall doesn't clear then well that's his problem and he can take it up with Mr. Sawzall.
Seems like alot of you guys use the CJ hanger in the rear, why? just cuz it's easier then finding a shackle to work with the factory tabs? Or does it tuck the mount up higher tighter to the frame?
AZrockcrawler , are you listening? what shackle did you use?
Forgot to mention; I'm gonna be sticking with the 33" T-birds for awhile.

My extension moves the axle 2.5 inches forward, and then I moved it another 1.5 inches, for a total of 4 inches.

The cj hanger lets you tuck it up tighter. If you use the bolt hole in the tabs your going to have to use a short shackle (which wont take advantage of your new flexy springs)or have your stuff hang way down (which will cost you clearance and make your already sloping springs even worse).

The sawsall isnt going to fix your problem unless you cut off the whole firewall. All of my seams are beat flat, the corner is gone, and its been massaged with the BFH.

I'm trying to save you some misery from someone who has BTDT...but feel free to procede...but I told ya' so!

Originally posted by SamuraiChris


When you say you moved axle forwars 1.5", are you talking 1.5" over stock?
I am already 1" forward and project that the axle will fall about 3" forward from the stock location when I put it in. If the firewall doesn't clear then well that's his problem and he can take it up with Mr. Sawzall.
Seems like alot of you guys use the CJ hanger in the rear, why? just cuz it's easier then finding a shackle to work with the factory tabs? Or does it tuck the mount up higher tighter to the frame?
AZrockcrawler , are you listening? what shackle did you use?
Forgot to mention; I'm gonna be sticking with the 33" T-birds for awhile.

I welded a CJ spring hanger on after seeing how nice it works. My shackle is a pair of plates, roughly 4" hole to hole. Whatever you do, you can't rotate the spring perches, so be sure your pinion is up high enough so the front driveshaft doesn't bind. Also, you have to move the front spring mount several inches forward to keep that front tire out of the footwell. I moved mine twice and it still just hits the firewall with my bumpstops compressed.

Here's a shot with a 4.75" frame extension:
http://www.azrockcrawler.com/_images/2001/5-01frontyj/dscn3482.jpg


When I tubed the front we moved the springs forward another inch or so. The CJ hanger is nice because it keeps your shackle tucked closer to the frame. The CSC kits used a Chevy truck shackle along with plates that bolts to the stock shackle hanger. This setup hangs down low and can get caught on rocks much easier.

if I may..

some pics

The front extension (aka, CSC style)

http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/zuk/front-axle-2.jpg

The rear shackle

http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/zuk/front-axle-8.jpg

hope that helps some..

I agree too:D Scw I sent you an e-mail

Originally posted by tdavis
if I may..

The rear shackle

http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/zuk/front-axle-8.jpg

hope that helps some..

I still dopn't think anyone should copy this rear design. It hangs way down, and I think tDavis is going to be fighting some bad angles really soon. (I hope it works out for him..)

Samuraichris - On my front suspension, I have a 9" frame extension, and my spring mount is out about 10.5", under the bumper. I am running Toyota leafs that are the same length as the YJ springs, but not sure about the center bolt placement between the different springs. For my toyota packs, I needed the front spring mount, and the rear shackle hanger the same distance from the ground. Otherwise my castor angle would be killed. Looking at your front end, I'd think this would place the rear hanger somewhere inside the frame. (which can be done.)

I should point out that I am running 37" tires, and a Toyota housing. So my axle is moved forward an additional 7" or so.. There are not many sawzall mods you can make to your firewall as your clutch pedal does hit the floor.

You can hit the WWW button below to see some pictures.

-Wayne

Thats why I didnt copy that rear shackle set-up...it is goofy.

I'd be curious to see how those yota springs work, I've thought about them too and have a set stashed in the garage.

Originally posted by scwafish
I'd be curious to see how those yota springs work, I've thought about them too and have a set stashed in the garage.

So far I do not like them. They do not have much flex, and I'm guessing the ride quality might suck also. I might be able to pull a leaf out of them without trouble. We shall see, I still have a lot of building to do.

For now it was an easy install, I will probably change the front suspension after I have the thing running for a while. On the plus side, they are deisnged for a spring over, and should have ZERO spring wrap problems. My old suspension with M/L wrapped pretty bad.

-Wayne

p.s. Shaved the rear axle this weekend. Turned out pretty nice too. :)

Originally posted by scwafish
I used a cj hanger in the back, mounted to where the old stock tabs were before I ground them off.

The setup I have doesnt give a bunch of lift....my rig is a virtual low-rider for a sami on 35s. My rear fenders are cut, and I got rid of the front fenders all together.

You need the length of the extension to keep the tires off of the firewall at full compression. I moved my axle forward an additional 1.5 inches and chopped and beat the tub and they still kiss.

The final setup looks a lot better when the rig is all together....and approach isnt really a problem, and itll only get better with bigger rubber....but I got where out these first!


Mister Fish, can we see some up close of the cj spring hangers? are we talking like the ones that are usually in the front if a 76up CJ? and are shaped like a "p"?

thanks!

Originally posted by kestrel



Mister Fish, can we see some up close of the cj spring hangers? are we talking like the ones that are usually in the front if a 76up CJ? and are shaped like a "p"?

thanks!


Yes it is a "P" and they are from the rear of 76 and up CJ-7's

I'd think this would place the rear hanger somewhere inside the frame. (which can be done.)

Rotozuk, I looked at your site. Did you wind up using the shackle mount inside the frame? How'd that work out for you? I don't understand how it would work since all you had was a steel rod with no bushing, wouldn't the shackle not move once it was all bolted in tight. Looks like you never used it.
http://home.off-road.com/~reilly/frameshackle.jpg

Anyone else put there upper shackle mount in the frame? How'd you do it n how'd it work?

Originally posted by SamuraiChris


Rotozuk, I looked at your site. Did you wind up using the shackle mount inside the frame? How'd that work out for you? I don't understand how it would work since all you had was a steel rod with no bushing, wouldn't the shackle not move once it was all bolted in tight. Looks like you never used it.
http://home.off-road.com/~reilly/frameshackle.jpg

Anyone else put there upper shackle mount in the frame? How'd you do it n how'd it work?

That is correct, i did not end up using it as I needed to move my axle further forward once I decided to run the larger tires. At that stage of the project I was having trouble with the neighbors, so was simply throwing the front end together so I could move the project. I ended up replacing it all.

If you look at an 85 or earlier Toyota mini-truck (4x4) you will see how Toyota does a shackle mount through the frame. It can be done, but you will need to make a large enough hole to support a bushing.

-wayne