just was thinkin instead of forkin out lots of cash to porkbelly this look to be a less expensive alternative
http://store.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/tci-861700.jpg $80.00
OR this you do your own wiring
http://store.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sbr-ll.jpg $40.00 both from summit

explane to me what it does........ i can't figure it out by looking at it..........:flipoff2:

Electric line lockers an alternative to the $300. kit from Porkbelly eng. install it into your brake line flip a switch after the brake has been depressed ..... instant e-brake

the bottom solenoid is the same one pork barrel uses.....i've got them on my truck.....i think that's one of the best mod's i've made....especially if you're not geared extremely low.....gave me a lot more confidence on steep climbs to be able to start and stop with ease.....just have to be careful not to leave them on over night.....they'll pretty much kill a battery in 12-24 hours

This is what I have on my truck, it doesn't need elec. so it won't drain your battery!http://www.jcwhitney.com/images/imagecache/I2184.gif

just wondering, can you set these up to just work on the rear brakes?

also, where can you get one of those manual ones, my ebrake straight sucks and i would like to be able to use that floorboard area for other things. thanks

I got mine from JC Whitney. I know that place blows, but that one is the best brand and they had it cheaper than anyone else.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jhtml?CATID=14754&BQ=jcw2

Yes you hook them up into one set of brakes. Front or Rear. You push the brakes then push in on the button and it's locked. Push the brakes again and it unlocks.

What did you do, run a brakeline into the cab of the truck? Just curious how you set yours up. I've heard good things about that JC Whitney set-up

This does make a good "trail E-brake" , but be very careful. This will NOT pass as a true E-brake as it does need to be a complete seperate system, and has to generally be a mechanical system.

So long and short of it. Don't remove your existing e-brake if you intend to sell your truck, or if you have annual inspections.

This system will not work well if you do loose a brake line.

This system will work well as skid braked on the rear end.

Are the threads on those things set up to match the Suzuki brake line fittings? Do they come in defferent threads for different applications?
How do the electric ones unlock, just hit the brake as well?

What about a drivetrain lock using the electric motor off the back of a BW1350 (ranger) t-case. Have a metal extension coming off the t-case output, with a slot that the electric motor can drive its umm thing into. Forget that it's locked, whack the go-pedal, and kiss your t-case goodbye.

This is an awesome ebrake!!! Ive been running it for quite a while now and love it!!!

http://spidertrax.com/brakes_ebr1.jpg

Shane,

Is that the Spidertrax kit or someone elses?!?!? How much?? Do you know what caliper is used?? I could build the rest....

TIA

Originally posted by billj
Shane,

Is that the Spidertrax kit or someone elses?!?!? How much?? Do you know what caliper is used?? I could build the rest....

TIA

Yeah it is the spidertrax kit...about 200 bucks.....Not sure what caliper it is....It is a manual one that hooks into your stick ebrake cable! I have been very very hard on this thing, including bending the rotor once, and it is still working like a champ!!! Worth every penny! Quality product!

Originally posted by RudeZuk


Yeah it is the spidertrax kit...about 200 bucks.....Not sure what caliper it is....It is a manual one that hooks into your stick ebrake cable! I have been very very hard on this thing, including bending the rotor once, and it is still working like a champ!!! Worth every penny! Quality product!


I´m sure that it´s worth every penny. Only problem is that I don´t earn in pennies, but in centavos...:p

Anyone know what caliper they use?? I heard somewhere that it´s actually from a bicycle setup........

It is a Wilwood mechanical spot caliper.
http://www.wilwood.com/products/calipers/msc/index.asp
I think they only cost about $60, not sure on the exact $$ figure.

Originally posted by SamuraiChris
It is a Wilwood mechanical spot caliper.
http://www.wilwood.com/products/calipers/msc/index.asp
I think they only cost about $60, not sure on the exact $$ figure.

So that is 60 bucks....a disk if probably about the same, and then you spend a couple of days fabbing some mounts hoping that it will work with your ebrake cable????

Originally posted by RudeZuk


So that is 60 bucks....a disk if probably about the same, and then you spend a couple of days fabbing some mounts hoping that it will work with your ebrake cable????


Now Shane, don´t get your shite all in a bunch!!!:flipoff2:

I would agree that the Spidertrax kit is not a bad deal for the quality and the price. However, you have to realize that not everyone lives with a Visa card and an 800 telephone number at their disposal. There´s a lotta planet outside the 04 walls of the good old US of A where everything´s just not so easy...:flipoff2:

For me to obtain a Spidertrax kit, for example...

1) Contact Spidertrax (simple, so far so good).
2) Contact an import/export agent in Miami to find out his surcharge for receiving and arranging dispach of said e-brake to Brasil.
3) Expect around 02 weeks to get everything straightened out.
4) Wait around 06 weeks for the fawking boat to arrive.
5) Hope that the customs guys are not on strike. If not, then wait 02 more weeks for clearance, together with the privledge to paÿ 60% of the SHIPPED value (that´s merchandise + dispach + shipping costs all together). If the customs guys are in a bad mood, then the wait is who knows how long...

OK, so now were talking 08 weeks at best from order to receipt, combined with around 200% of the original material cost. See now why it´s worth it to build my own?!?!?

You don´t even WANNA know what I had to do to get the 35" Swampers..........

Fawker........... :D

way I see it, that disc/ rotor whatever is nothing special, go to any steel shop and buy an 8" round piece of stainless and you're covered there, so $60 caliper, $3 rotor, $10 for other mounting brackets and stuff, and wallah, $73 t-case mounted e-brake.
Maybe I'll do it after I finish the YJ springs, and the shackle reverse, and the Yota axles, and the front locker, adn the Power steering, and the tubed rear............. yeah, e-brake is pretty low on the priority list.
Chris

ive never liked how that ebrake disc hangs down below the tcase, isnt it a rock magnet? Or in my case, something to get caught on when i drive over fallen trees in the trail.

The porkbelly kit comes with two line locks and all the brake lines prebent for a bolt in intstall, so its not that over priced when you figure they would like to get a small profit added on for their trouble.

Just a reminder for those who have to get inspected, having a linelock for your only ebrake is illegal in most states.

Well said Billj......I can understand why you would want to build up as much as you can yourself......glad to be on this side of the border!

As far as a rock magnet goes.....Ive wheeled hard for almost a year now, and SOR weekend was the first time that i was able to actually hit the disk hanging down!

My problem with these line locks.

They are not redundant. If the hydraulics take a shit, you are dead meat. with the stock e-brake, you still have brakes.

I have recently heard of the master cyclinder failing on 2 different Jap based cars at highway speed. Yes, both channels failed at once. That has to wake you up!

I have also heard a number of stories from 4x4 folks about loosing a front brake line becuase it was rubbing against something, not to mention the number I have seen ripped out after a hard roll or endo.

I suggest a mechanical system as a backup!

And yes, the Samurai rear brakes can work very well. They are easy to service, so if your e-brake is not working, spend an hour and fix them! Probably will not cost you anything either, maybe some pads. :rolleyes:

-Wayne

The stock rear brakes dont work as an ebrake once you change your axles.....

Originally posted by rotozuk
My problem with these line locks.

They are not redundant. If the hydraulics take a shit, you are dead meat. with the stock e-brake, you still have brakes.

I have recently heard of the master cyclinder failing on 2 different Jap based cars at highway speed. Yes, both channels failed at once. That has to wake you up!

I have also heard a number of stories from 4x4 folks about loosing a front brake line becuase it was rubbing against something, not to mention the number I have seen ripped out after a hard roll or endo.

I suggest a mechanical system as a backup!

And yes, the Samurai rear brakes can work very well. They are easy to service, so if your e-brake is not working, spend an hour and fix them! Probably will not cost you anything either, maybe some pads. :rolleyes:

-Wayne

Down shift comes to mind

Hey Billj..... Hmmmm... disc brake calipers you can find in Brazil...
How about a Honda nighthawk 750 front mechanical caliper..(or any motorcycle front mechanical caliper)
The Wilwood one is 100% exactly identical to the Airheart mechanical caliper I use...... Search out Airheart or Hayes....both companies make mehanical spot calipers
These are used as parking brakes on airport equipment quite often (like the tugs that pull luggage carts)

Originally posted by CRO
Hey Billj..... Hmmmm... disc brake calipers you can find in Brazil...
How about a Honda nighthawk 750 front mechanical caliper..(or any motorcycle front mechanical caliper)
The Wilwood one is 100% exactly identical to the Airheart mechanical caliper I use...... Search out Airheart or Hayes....both companies make mehanical spot calipers
These are used as parking brakes on airport equipment quite often (like the tugs that pull luggage carts)


I´ve been searching for a mechanical caliper from a motorcycle for a few months now, to no avail.......

In any event, thanks for the leads on Airheart and Hayes. I´ll check those names out....

A lotta guys you those mechanical spot calipers on go-carts and things around here. Is there any carting in your area Bill?
Ken

Originally posted by Slowzuki
A lotta guys you those mechanical spot calipers on go-carts and things around here. Is there any carting in your area Bill?
Ken

Lotsa karts, but they all use fawking hydro systems...:(

Originally posted by CRO
How about a Honda nighthawk 750 front mechanical caliper..(or any motorcycle front mechanical caliper)


:confused: Chris, unless i'm somehow reading this wrong (a distinct possibility:D )..........even the very first production disc braked motorcycle (Honda CB750-4) had a hydraulic caliper, I thought. it had a short section of hard pipe leading from the caliper up the fork where it then switched to a rubber line all the way up to the master cylinder.

i've been riding for over 25 years and have never personally come across a mechanically actuated caliper/front disc brake, let alone a relatively "modern" model like a Nighthawk 750 ???


cool! have you got any detailed specs or anything? i would really like to see this, as you've got me very curious now.:)

The nighthawk was a lead I got from a wheeling buddy of mine... I couldn't find one either but apparently there are mechanical front discs out there.....
I KNOW that the honda oddesy has a mechanical caliper..( I actually have one) but the bracketry to hook it up to my Dana 20 would have been just too *rig a jig* to make it practical... the Airheart was way easier to mount.

Look into a mechanical brake of a snowmobile the old ones are all mechanical:D

ahhh. cool, i used to have an Odyssey waaaaaaay long ago too -1977 *blush* but i can barely remember anything about it other than it was a blast!:p

and ya Rockrat, i googled as soon as i left the thread and discovered Snowmobile mechanical calipers too! go figure! have done my fair share of riding those but never woulda thought about their braking systems, really!:cool: another possible venue to explore. i desperately want to swap out my drums for rear discs but still have a passable E-brake system for Inspection time too.

:thinkingcapon::rasta:

Ya Im going to pick a snmobile brake up and design a bracket the hole E-brake thread was not to say, this is the way but only an alternative to the Porkbelly price I would think for $80.00 ya get 2 solenoids and Im sure there is not one guy out there that doesnt have some wire and a switch layin in there garage ok $20.00 more for some brake line and some metric adapters just seemed to me to be an inexpensive alternative. anyone interested in the xtra calipers and brackets to do rear disk let me no $50.00 +s/h and you can have whats comin off of my front

we have a driveline e-brake - Jess

Originally posted by onetoncv
we have a driveline e-brake - Jess
'

Jess will you make this for a toy????

If so how much? Also make this for a V6 auto 4runner?

PM me if you need too..

i heard something about those hydro-locks eat up rubber brake hoses really quick because of the pressure...i don't think i wanna know what that would do to longer brake hose then...but definitely cool for short term use on the trail.
-justin

Myth thats all they are is a basic door you apply the pressure and flip the switch to close the door

Hey BillJ, how about Subaru front calipers? You MUST have Subies in Brazil, they are cheap and 4x4 so ya' gotta have 'em - or I think Saabs had the same thing - mechanical e-brakes on the front discs. Now you have caliper, matching disc, you just need mounts, you might be able to find a way to use part of knuckle as a caliper mount to the t-case even. I seem to recall this(Suby brakes) has been done already, using Sam rotors in the back, kind of a disc brake conversion with e-brake included already. I also know the Lincoln Continental used a rear discs with a mechanical cable to the caliper. There are other Fords using a little bitty crappy drum brake inside the "hat" of the disc - not recommended by me, but they would satisfy a legal requirment perhaps. Expeditions with this system I have worked on won't hold against the tranny in D at idle, it rolls away with the ebrake fully applied. I can't imagine this design holding on a hill. I like the Subaru setup myself, once you learn the trickes for rebuilding them they are pretty reliable. You could also find some for the later model vented calipers, which might have the room needed to fit your Dana 30 front rotors you have in back - perhaps in conjuction with the brakes you have, perhaps replacing them entirely.

Erik