: D110 suspension lift
Hi guy's I'm looking for your help.
I've just got an old 1988 D110 and want to stick a 4", or there abouts, lift on the old girl so I can fit some bigger tyres (33's sound about right) and improve articulation.
I've lifted my Discovery so am aware of prop issues etc that you get (destroyed 2 props now :laughing:) and the handling is fun.
My main problem is finding a supplier (preferably uk based) that makes coil springs for that lift. The only option I have found here is to use +2" springs with 2" spacers. If I have to go that route I will and if I do what size dampers/shocks would you recommend to improve articulation? Would +4"shocks sound about right or do I need longer?
Also my D110 is the County model (5 door etc) and has anti-roll bars (sway bars?) front and rear. I'd like to keep them on for on road and have them quick release when I get to the muddy stuff. Has anyone ever made a quick release system for these or am I going to have to try design something myself?
Thanks for any help or advice you can give or point me at.
Zef.
Dave_Lucas 01-04-2009, 06:06 PM I've just got an old 1988 D110 and want to stick a 4", or there abouts, lift on the old girl so I can fit some bigger tyres (33's sound about right)
Why would you have to lift it that much to fit a 33" tyre :confused:
I bet it would look funny with that much lift and a 33" tyre :laughing:
DiscoDino 01-04-2009, 07:51 PM Hey Zef,
On my 2002 D90 TD5, I simply installed the 10mm utherane bushings above my stock springs and am currently running 285/75 R 16 BFG ATs (measuring 33 x 10.5). with the stock anti-roll bars, there was no rubbing...
With the age, weight and type of tire you'd be fitting in the UK (for mud I assume), you can probably get away with stock HD or +1" springs with some trimming to the black "eyebrows"...the less the lift, the less the strain on the whole drivetrain (seems you know that first hand)
Micka 01-04-2009, 10:48 PM :eek:
I had a 110 with a 4" lift and 37" tyres.
For 33" tyres you only need to do as DiscoDino suggested. Trimming the flares around the wheel arches does wonders for fitting bigger rubber.
My current Rover - 87 RRC - is sitting on 37s with a 3" lift and 1.5" body lift using Lovells shocks and springs.
Thanks for the advice guys. :)
I forgot that Defenders come with bigger tyres and more clearance than Disco's as standard. With the info you all gave me, and as I want to improve clearance and the break over angle, then i'll have to start by rethinking my tyre choice first.
4" lift and 37's must have looked awesome and would sure give it a mean look :evil:
It's certainly given me food for thought.
Thanks. :D
Slunnie 01-05-2009, 05:05 AM If you keep cutting, 37's will also go on to Countys with a 2" lift.
This is CAL415's
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/qserv/County/stockton-beach-15.jpg
hoggyn 01-05-2009, 05:51 AM If you are thinking about fitting castor correcting front suspension arms then this (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=738603) is worth reading first. It might save you some grief!
And here (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=36190)
landroversforever 01-05-2009, 08:31 AM i certainly wouldnt bother with more than a 2" lift for 33s, tyres will look lost in the arches.
fridgefreezer 01-05-2009, 01:08 PM I at least one guy running 35" with zero lift and massive flex on a D90, 33" should go on with no mods at all.
BTW 37's also fit with no lift, if you have Volvos :flipoff2:
http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/gallery/eddie_random/eddie_slab.jpg
Keith Armstrong 01-05-2009, 01:35 PM In Hull!?!?
My daughter was at University there for a semester....I have nothing intelligent to add....but to second the references on caster correction!!
pendy 01-05-2009, 04:57 PM Consider the tire itself will lift the truck 2" over stock and just do a 1" to 2" lift-
:smokin:
OK Coming up with a plan thanks to your advice.
I'm going to look for some 35" tyres and a 2" lift which should give me the clearance I want and shouldn't cause too many transmission nightmares......I hope. :)
hoggyn I'd never heard of those arms breaking. Seems like they've updated the design somewhat since then. I did see these things, what do you think? http://www.rdseng.co.uk/Radius%20arms.htm I thought they looked a bit on the flimsy side myself but then I tend to over engineer things myself (my relocation cones could survive a direct nuclear strike :laughing: ) :shaking:
Pendy I think that's what I'm going to do. I can always go higher if I need to. Need to remember to walk before I run sometimes.
OK so assuming 35's and a 2" lift what would the recommendation be for shocks/dampers to give max articulation? I'm thinking of what length and do I raise or lower the mounts?
Am I right in thinking that if I raise the mounts I can fit shocks with more travel (droop) and they won't get smashed when the wheel comes up? :confused:
Slunnie 01-06-2009, 12:22 AM I'd just stay with the factory radius arms. If your really that unhappy with the castor then slot the swivel balls and correct it. If it vibrates then fit a DC to the front output on the transfer but its not a big lift. With 35's you can still break stuff, even Maxidrive etc axles. If you're going to give it some then also look at the rear lower links which fold up a fair bit.
Your thinking is correct.
fridgefreezer 01-06-2009, 11:16 AM I did see these things, what do you think? http://www.rdseng.co.uk/Radius%20arms.htm I thought they looked a bit on the flimsy side myself
Personally I think they look wank, stock arms are strong, cheap, and work fine.
Higher shock mounts will allow you to stick longer travel shocks in, there are good ways and bad ways of raising shock mounts though.
Lift does not equal more articulation, in fact many lift giving springs are less compliant than stock. The most flexible truck I know has zero lift.
Have a read here (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12063) and here (http://www.lr90.shacknet.nu/lr90/calculator.aspx).
hoggyn 01-06-2009, 03:41 PM I agree with Fridge and Slunnie. Keep the stock arms and, if you have to, use compensating swivels. Paddocks sell them.
I haven't got a Defender, but I am currently building up an early Range Rover, which isn't too dissimilar. Ultimately, I want to run 35" tyres and I'd rather not lift it at all if I can get away with it. I'll probably get slated, but I also want to try and keep the load leveller too - or something similar. I'm a bit concerned that some modifications aimed at producing massive articulation also adversly affect tarmac roadholding to an unaceptable (to me) degree. Given a recent tragic event in the UK, it would not be helpful to me or the 4x4 community to have a major 'off' in a modified Rover. I'd love to see an MOT tester's face if I turned up with pull down winches for the axles :D
Yes, those tubular arms look naff and they probably are naff. Are they the company that was offering tubular chassis frames with the torsional rigidity of a wet fart?
fridgefreezer 01-07-2009, 04:08 AM Yes, those tubular arms look naff and they probably are naff. Are they the company that was offering tubular chassis frames with the torsional rigidity of a wet fart?
I think that was Protection & performance or some other roll cage manufacturer. RDS are certainly responsible for some utter abortions that the UK magazines have gone all moist over:
http://www.rdseng.co.uk/images/front.jpg
"Yes, we can bolt stupid tyres to your standard Rover axles and do a rough arse body lift like no-one else" :shaking: Amazingly in the article on their Range Rover the guy claimed he hadn't broken any driveline components, I can only assume he's not actually ever had it in low box.
The tart's handbag 90 has been for sale at my local LR specialist for about £16k for ages, I think on behalf of a customer who bought it from RDS, god knows why or what possible use it could have.
EDIT: Just to add, here's Nige's 90 - 34" Simex, no lift, and out-twists all of the extreme suspension kits (although this photo isn't great, it's got lots to give):
http://www.fuddymuckers.co.uk/gallery/kittygrip/nige_slab_test.JPG
Michele 01-08-2009, 01:01 AM 36" TSLs with no lift.
:D
http://usera.ImageCave.com/Michele/36 002.jpg
http://usera.ImageCave.com/Michele/36 003.jpg
fridgefreezer 01-08-2009, 05:42 PM Now that looks sweet, and makes me want to post this:
http://juracid.co.uk/gallery/forum/lift_sm.png
I think there's a lesson for us all here :D
uninformed 01-08-2009, 09:51 PM 36" TSLs with no lift.
:D
http://usera.ImageCave.com/Michele/36 002.jpg
http://usera.ImageCave.com/Michele/36 003.jpg
are they Q78's?
Serg
Michele 01-09-2009, 12:38 AM G'day Serg,
no in the end I went for TSL 36" 13-16.
Hey I might even make a motivational poster of myself :grinpimp:
cumminsrover 01-09-2009, 02:01 AM Now that looks sweet, and makes me want to post this:
http://juracid.co.uk/gallery/forum/lift_sm.png
I think there's a lesson for us all here :D
I was in Florida last month and I saw a bunch of crazy contraptions like that going into and coming out of the Everglades. One of them was a truck with a truck on top of it and all of the seats were on top of the top truck. Apparently they call it a "Swamp Buggy". I like the "speed holes" in the lower bumper and various other bits.
I'm glad that this thread is actually giving Zef good advice - not that I am contributing anything much.....
Petersen's had a tyre fitment guide a few years back and I think it said for Defenders 33's were stockable, 35's with a 2" lift, and 37's with 4" and minor trimming. This fits exactly with everyone else's advice.
Patrick
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