Ok, here goes... 1990 Ramcharger going up on 49" IROKs.
Plan is to move the rear axle rearward ~6" while opening up the fender well ~12" and move the front axle ~12" forward while flat fendering the front fenders. Goal is to build a 'general purpose' off road rig and keep the roof height at 8' or below but still allowing for a 'decent' amount of flex. The 1990 Ramcharger is 2wd & basically rust free from GA. 440/727/205 combo going in... at some point upgrading to a 3sp xfer. Standard locked D60/D70 full hydro steering combo. Other bells & whistles will fall into place after I get the suspension relocation brackets/crossmembers fabricated and the chassis rolling again.

http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/newRAMchargerTEARDOWNsmaller.JPG

HEy, Nice looking start. Are you planning on openening up the rear by removing the top?

I haven't thought that through yet... would make fabbing the cage easier when the time comes, but it's nice cover for my two boys for now. I actually started removing the top of my 85 charger via the rocks at Tellico years ago. 8-)
Would be nice to at least have quick-release removable rear side windows for the time being...

Good to see you got a thread started.
Looking forward to the progress.

Is it going to be that tall? Looks like you can lower it somewhat if your cutting fenders but Im guessing its a mud truck correct?
Are you going to upgrade your shafts to handle those tires?

I hope not... 8-) I know how much lift it took to make my 85 ramcharger comfortable on 40" tires. Trying to base my calculations off of that example and find the fine line between articulation and fender hacking...
Mud/trail truck more than anything else I guess... not the plethora of rocks around here like out west etc. D60 Stub shaft upgrade is high on the list... we'll see how everything else holds up.

Side note - anyone got the itch for a pile of 2wd ramcharger parts??? 8-)

http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/ramcharger2wdparts.JPG

Ok - onto the first fab session... extending the front frame rails a bit ~8". I had an old parking lot light pole lying around which is 4x4-3/16" wall square tubing... fits in the frame nice and snug. I can fab in a new crossmember under the radiator support for the front body mounts - and tie in the extensions out front. Should make a nice little flat spot for my hydraulic winch when complete. Anywho - my main concern is with the stength of what I'll add compared to the original frame strength right at the rear most tie in point under the hood. I'd rather the factory frame not decide to bend in this location. 8-) Any thoughts or concerns?

(square tubing is not cut to length yet obviously...)

http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/ramchargerfronttoredown.JPG

http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/ramchargerfrontframeextension.JPG

Similar plans here as far as moving the front axle forward. I fabbed this frame extension out of channel:

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/9838/0823081601asl2.jpg
http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/9407/0823081637aia8.jpg

When I get to the point that I've going to shift the axle forward, I'll be cutting the front crossmember out like you did and shifting the extension back in the frame to gain as much strength as I can from it, then box the frame back behind the engine crossmember and brace in the engine crossmember to the extension. The grille and radiator support will be modified to sink the Braden back inside a bit.

We did a similar setup on a Toyota Tacoma that we did a SAS on but used square tubing hammered into the stock sheetmetal frame rails and plug welded. It has held up real well at Tellico and a few other tough runs. We didn't brace it as much as I intended to on the Ramcharger due to the much lower weight.

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/7561/0620081936kw7.jpg

wow, this is gonna be a sweet build. u should check out ramchargecentral.com out if u havent already. cant wait to c this done gonna give me a good idea on where ur movin ur axles, iv been thinkin about doin that with my rc.

Would be nice to at least have quick-release removable rear side windows for the time being...

go to a boat top shop and have them make "soft" side windows that you can attach with snaps.

definitely have to watch this one - cool build. RC's rock :smokin:

- M2

Wow, this thing is gonna be cool, cant wait to see this take shape, good luck.

Yeah I gotta know about the axles. I'm assuming your gonna throw some chromo's under it atleast? I've seen big blocks and 44's snap 60's all day long with chromoly shafts in them. First time you turn the tires and romp on it....... :(

Good build though.

Sweet build hope to see lots of pics love pics . The Frame is my concern also my RC frame has cracked and broke so manny times but i have not reinforced it much but im runing rocks with 44 '' tires and leafs front and back with dodge 360 727 208.

I have about 10 ''- 11 '' of lift and im right under 8 ' tall . So what kinda axles will be hard to run 49'' and not brake unless its rockwells .

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/dodgecountryboy/104_0385.jpg

Sweet build hope to see lots of pics love pics . The Frame is my concern also my RC frame has cracked and broke so manny times but i have not reinforced it much but im runing rocks with 44 '' tires and leafs front and back with dodge 360 727 208.

I have about 10 ''- 11 '' of lift and im right under 8 ' tall . So what kinda axles will be hard to run 49'' and not brake unless its rockwells .

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y194/dodgecountryboy/104_0385.jpg

any more pics of ur rc?? it looks sweet

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/9407/0823081637aia8.jpg
The grille and radiator support will be modified to sink the BRADEN back inside a bit.



What is that?

Some sort of winch I assume but it has me very curious

Its a BRADEN winch :flipoff2:

Glad to see more RC's being built. Keep the updates coming. Mine's down for a trany rebuild right now.

What is that?

Some sort of winch I assume but it has me very curious


As Baja said, it is a Braden worm drive electric winch. Braden has made winches for many years. Most of the PTO winches on light duty military vehicles like the M37 and M715 series vehicles were built by Braden. My winch is only rated for 8k lbs, but that was back in the early 1960s and it will easily out pull today's winches rated for 15k lbs. They might be faster with planetary gears but nothing but a hydraulic or PTO will out pull these old worm drives.

As Baja said, it is a Braden worm drive electric winch. Braden has made winches for many years. Most of the PTO winches on light duty military vehicles like the M37 and M715 series vehicles were built by Braden. My winch is only rated for 8k lbs, but that was back in the early 1960s and it will easily out pull today's winches rated for 15k lbs. They might be faster with planetary gears but nothing but a hydraulic or PTO will out pull these old worm drives.


It made me wonder when I didnt see any hydraulic lines run into it (no cables either :flipoff2:) Are these inexpensive or rare by any chance?

The electric ones are pretty rare as most trucks ended up with commercial Ramsey or Warn electric winches. A Braden is an industrial grade winch like a Garwood or Tulsa. Braden winches are still made by the PACCAR Winch Division but the MU8 (mechanical PTO) and HU8 (hydraulic) 8k lbs winches are all that is available. The electric EU8, the great, great grandson of my winch, is no longer available though the HU8 and MU8 can be converted to electric. Prices can vary depending on the truck service company you are buying from but they are generally about twice as much as the popular commercial winches. I lucked out and got this one for $100 in a non-working condition and it took me 14 years to gather all the parts to rebuild it last summer.

Oh, and I do have a little bit of wire rope on it now but I need to buy a new 150' length:

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/2962/0829081628hl3.jpg

And to keep from completely hijacking Jopickens' thread, I have also thought about the removable rear windows. I had thought of just filling them with sheetmetal like a panel wagon and then perhaps putting in a common RV window that would open, but that's a lot of time and trouble. My thoughts on removable windows would be to put a track at the bottom for the glass to set in, cover the pinch weld with a common door weatherstrip available in bulk rolls, and have the glass drilled for strap cleats so that the glass could be set in the track at the bottom and then Velcro straps mounted to the inside ceiling could be fed through the cleats and tightened down to hold the top of the window tight against the seal. The only problem I have with the idea is the curve at the top of the window, which could cause some problems if the window doesn't fit just perfectly against the curve of the body as putting it in a bind would probably bust the glass when you hit a good bump.

What kind of suspension are you using? Im guessing leafs?

I haven't thought that through yet... would make fabbing the cage easier when the time comes, but it's nice cover for my two boys for now. I actually started removing the top of my 85 charger via the rocks at Tellico years ago. 8-)
Would be nice to at least have quick-release removable rear side windows for the time being...

I'm sure I'll see this beast on the road at some point in time.... clarksburg here...

Hey dook where in cburg ya at? Im just outside of there in shinnston.

Looks great, can't wait to see how things go for this build. Funny thing is that I'm about to start tearing in to my '89 2wd Ramcharger to make it into my wheeler. Not going to the extreme you are...yet, but will have to figure out some of the things your doing.

On mine, I'm going to start with just a D44 and the 9.25 axles with 35's. Shackle flip in the rear, parallel 4-link in front. Since the body is all rusty, going to cut a decent amount of it off. Hopefully for under $3k I can have it rolling 4x4 to "test and tune" till I get some 1tons for it, and build the doubler and the 4-link in the rear, and on and on. By the time it's "done" my wife will probably :mad3:.

Great start, I'll be watching this one for sure.

Ok ok... you guys got me. I've been perusing the rockwell pages at pirat4x4 for the last couple days. I now see how many things in my build would be actually simplified by using them. So... should I snag a couple of the axles out of the old army truck that was given to me years ago??? I have had it squirreled away for a flatbed hauling truck project that I'll probably never get to... It does appear a bit unique being single rear wheeled but might very well have the same WMS width as the dually trucks etc.
Honestly I've yet to really measure/spec out any of the drivetrain components. I'm making the assumption it's riding on the typical 2-1/2 ton rockwells. Can anyone help me identify it? Best I can tell It was once a military fire truck of some sorts... body tags on the compartments for hoses, pike poles, ladders etc. I do know it spent its last years (last road legal year was 1978 by the license plate still attached to the rear) as an explosive hauling vehicle on a local strip mine. I'll get some more detailed pics of it online and post a link to them. Anything/anywhere in particular on the truck I should be looking at/for to help?

Thanks again for all your feed-back and encouragement...

http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/armytruck.jpg

Go for it! Rockwells are the shit for big building! And as I recall you want to look at the axle tag for it to say Timken, or Rockwell on it... avoid it if it says Bendex. Those are the crap ball type axles that are super weak (in rockwell standards).
Keep up the good work and looking forward to the build!
Matt

toss em under there even if they are bendix joints a u-joint shaft will go right in there

toss em under there even if they are bendix joints a u-joint shaft will go right in there

most people i have talked to said the ball typ u joint is just as strong but that are a pain if you have to take them out and you need to keep the boots in good condtion and full of grease . but like the other guy said can replace them later with u joint style shafts .

i can send you some more pics of my set up if your doing springs .
and that truck being single rear wheel its the same as if its a dull wheel. how manny lugs are on the axles ?

Ok - time for some wheel fabrication chit-chat - will probably start a separate thread once I really get into them so others can more easily find that small 'part' of this truck build.

http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/20090113ramchargerwheelbuildstart/wheels.jpg

I started making wheels almost 4 years ago... yes I've had a one of my 49" iroks since February of 2004!
My plan was simple... I picked up nine 20" x 8" steel spare tire wheels from half-ton hemi dodge trucks with the 20" wheel package for $10 / wheel!

http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/20090113ramchargerwheelbuildstart/20x8dodgesteelwheel.jpg

Here is a pic of the 49" irok stuffed on the 8" wide wheel for fun...

http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/20090113ramchargerwheelbuildstart/20x8in49irok.jpg

I had intended on cutting off the outer lip of two wheels with the plasma cutter on my turn-table, knock the center out of one side, weld the two back together and end up with a 12-1/2" wide 20" wheel (~5-3/8" backspacing). Here is a shot of the prototype I threw together years ago...

http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/20090113ramchargerwheelbuildstart/two20x8cutandtackedtop.jpg
http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/20090113ramchargerwheelbuildstart/two20x8cutandtackedside.jpg

Lastly - cut the center (~9" diameter or so...) out of an old set of heavy duty 8 lug wheels I had lying around, measure three times 8-), cut the center to match out of the 20" x 12-1/2" 5 lug wheel, and weld in the 8 lug center.

http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/20090113ramchargerwheelbuildstart/old8lugheavydutywheel.jpg

Now I'm thinking, after reading various posts on here, I might as well make this a split-bolt-together-style-wheel and run a pvc insert for the double beadlock effect. Add some rim/wheel edge stiffners... and now since I'm going to run rockwells, cut out some 20" 6 lug rockwell centers to weld into these 20" wheel shells I can make so easily and cheaply.

One thing I'm having a hard time finding is the ~20" ID pvc inserts... which I assume some folks out there have made out of plastic pipe. I can't find any lying around... I do know that 20" water pipe can be had with a 20" ID and just over 1/2" thick wall... but around here it's $620 for a 20' joint of it which I'll only need ~4' long piece to do four wheels. I might just fabricate the 'gerbil' cage beadlock inserts out of 1/2" to 3/4" steel tube if I can't find the correct size pvc/plastic pipe/tube insert etc.

Second big question that I haven't been able to dig up much detail on... I know the hummer wheels use a large O ring to seal the wheel halves together. Do the custom split double beadlock wheels all use large O rings for sealing... or could you get away with siliconing the bolt flanges on each wheel half where they meet/bolt together and get that to seal? Or possibly just use two large O rings, one on the outside of the bolt circle and another O ring, slightly smaller in diameter, on the inside of the bolt circle - and do you think that would seal/stayput on the flat flange surface (which will probably be 3/8" plate, 2" wide, with 20-30 bolts / wheel etc.)?

Hope all that made sense...
Of course the easy thing to do is go buy a set of 20" double beadlock wheels... but what fun is that?

There is a thread on Alaska 4x4 network that details homemade double beadlocks,. Best thread I ever read.
One of his options was riveting together a piece of 1" thick rubber to the proper diameter. 12 bolts hummers use rubber inserts so the logic is sound.
I'll see if I can dig up the thread for you tonight, it's bootyfab at it's finest(not a cut at him, it's a :grinpimp: setup, and I'm jealous)

Yep, go with Bead Locks!

glad to see I'm not the only one in the area going big these days... I just picked up a set of 60s for my Yota... she'll be getting the 40+ inch tire treatment before summer.

Now im sad. My crew is only gonna be on 37s

any more progress on this?

Hey man I am looking forward to this build! I am also liking the front end and the tires! Would LOVE to have some of those on my truck one day......Can't wait to see more!

Anyways I have some questions for you.

I have a 1989 Dodge Ramcharger that is 2wd also. Has a 318, automatic (518trans I believe, has OD).

Anyways I am wanting to convert it to 4wd. Can get an axle and leaf springs mounts, etc. from the local Pull-A-Part. Would the conversion be hard? I am currently 16 but will get someone else to do the actual conversion for me.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

clark truck parts has the 20" heavy rubber inserts used on the military truck. there where around $25 each. they would work perfect for your application. as for the axles the u joints are the strongest, i have had all 3 styles and there clearly stronger. even the stock u joint will have a little trouble with the 49,s. looking forward to your progress.

Ok ok... you guys got me. I've been perusing the rockwell pages at pirat4x4 for the last couple days. I now see how many things in my build would be actually simplified by using them. So... should I snag a couple of the axles out of the old army truck that was given to me years ago??? I have had it squirreled away for a flatbed hauling truck project that I'll probably never get to... It does appear a bit unique being single rear wheeled but might very well have the same WMS width as the dually trucks etc.
Honestly I've yet to really measure/spec out any of the drivetrain components. I'm making the assumption it's riding on the typical 2-1/2 ton rockwells. Can anyone help me identify it? Best I can tell It was once a military fire truck of some sorts... body tags on the compartments for hoses, pike poles, ladders etc. I do know it spent its last years (last road legal year was 1978 by the license plate still attached to the rear) as an explosive hauling vehicle on a local strip mine. I'll get some more detailed pics of it online and post a link to them. Anything/anywhere in particular on the truck I should be looking at/for to help?

Thanks again for all your feed-back and encouragement...

http://www.ezpickens.com/josh/pirate4x4/armytruck.jpg

I would go on Steel Soldiers .com
and find out what that is. It maybe something a collector needs. at the very least trade it for a less rare truck

Hey man I am looking forward to this build! I am also liking the front end and the tires! Would LOVE to have some of those on my truck one day......Can't wait to see more!

Anyways I have some questions for you.

I have a 1989 Dodge Ramcharger that is 2wd also. Has a 318, automatic (518trans I believe, has OD).

Anyways I am wanting to convert it to 4wd. Can get an axle and leaf springs mounts, etc. from the local Pull-A-Part. Would the conversion be hard? I am currently 16 but will get someone else to do the actual conversion for me.

Any suggestions?

Thanks


I did basically the same thing back in 87. I took the running gear out from under a 74 PW, and installed it under a 77 2 wheel drive. The frame on the PW got fawked up in a wreck, and I couldn't find a 4X4 frame. The best I remember, all the holes were already in the frame, so it was just bolt everything on. The factory hangers are all rivited, but I opted to bolt them on. The cross member under the engine is different, and I think I had to trim it for some reason or other......its been a long time ago. LOL One other thing...I had to change the steering box, but I'm not sure if you will or not. The 4X4's in the '70's had a bracket the gear mounted on, while the 2X's bolted straight to the frame. You may only have to change the pitman arm? And last but not least...you will have to add the transfer case cross member/ skid plate. While this is very "doable" it might be cheaper for you to sell your current RC, and buy one that's already 4X4. I didn't notice where you are, but I have parts if you decide to convert.

Hey man I am looking forward to this build! I am also liking the front end and the tires! Would LOVE to have some of those on my truck one day......Can't wait to see more!

Anyways I have some questions for you.

I have a 1989 Dodge Ramcharger that is 2wd also. Has a 318, automatic (518trans I believe, has OD).

Anyways I am wanting to convert it to 4wd. Can get an axle and leaf springs mounts, etc. from the local Pull-A-Part. Would the conversion be hard? I am currently 16 but will get someone else to do the actual conversion for me.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Kinda funny, but I'm going through this right now as we speak. Same year and everything, well except for mine having the 727 without OD. I bought a set of axles from an '84 Dodge, and the transmission/TC and all the skid plates/X-member out of an '86 Ramcharger.

The motor mounts on the 2wd are mounted to the control arm mount/X-member for the front suspension, which is riveted to the frame. I used part of the original mounts and built a new engine crossmember. New holes will have to be drilled on the frame for the trans/tc crossmember to bolt to if you use the original 4x4 one. Also not 100% sure as this is where I'm at now, the tranny tunnel may have to be clearanced to get the TC into the position where it needs to be.

Another thing I've discovered, since it's 2wd, the front section of the frame is different, and is smaller between the rails in the front. Did not know this until I tried installing a set of 4x4 headers that came of the donor Ramcharger. Because of this you would have to make a front leaf spring mount, and probably one for the rear of the springs as well. I thought about using coil springs for the front, but then you run into the issue of the steering shaft getting in the way becuase of how low the steering box mounts to the frame. Because of that I'm going to be using coil-overs and 4 link in the front the rear is going to be a shackle flip for now. Eventually it'll be linked as well.

As PwrWagon said, it would be more cost effective to sell the current one for a 4x4, or find a 4x4 that needs work, and swap your TBI V8 and whatever else into it. I would have done the same thing, but I wanted a challenge, which is what I have now. Good luck if you attempt it.

I like projects and most people tell me I am crazy and to just buy a 4x4 RC but I won't. I have too much sentimental value into this one and would LOVE it if I had it 4x4 and I am sure my grandpa would also.

Anyways I am located in GA, right on the GA/SC border.

Gonna make my own thread for this though...Hate highjacking others.

OK OK OK - movement... not in the right direction, but movement - I'm taming the ramcharger project and making it street 'legal'. Using the 49" iroks on another ride... nabbed a set of 39.5 iroks and h2 wheels cheap. Here's a few shots w/the axles rolled under it. Front fenders have been opened up 8" towards the front and the d60 is sitting almost 4" forward from where it would have been if this RCharger was originally 4wd etc. Still need to trim the rear fenders rearward 6"-8" and fab up the suspension mounts etc.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger2/axlesunder1.JPGhttp://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger2/axlesunder2.JPG
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger2/axlesunder3.JPGhttp://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger2/axlesunder4.JPG

Josh

Thats super badass! VERY well done! The 39.5s look SLICK

Hi

I have got the identical Braden on a 79 GMC 35 crew 4x4 as the one on your dodge.
I wondered if you could pass some info down the line about where to get parts and or if you still think this is a good winch.

Thanx Imi

Similar plans here as far as moving the front axle forward. I fabbed this frame extension out of channel:

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/9838/0823081601asl2.jpg
http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/9407/0823081637aia8.jpg

When I get to the point that I've going to shift the axle forward, I'll be cutting the front crossmember out like you did and shifting the extension back in the frame to gain as much strength as I can from it, then box the frame back behind the engine crossmember and brace in the engine crossmember to the extension. The grille and radiator support will be modified to sink the Braden back inside a bit.

We did a similar setup on a Toyota Tacoma that we did a SAS on but used square tubing hammered into the stock sheetmetal frame rails and plug welded. It has held up real well at Tellico and a few other tough runs. We didn't brace it as much as I intended to on the Ramcharger due to the much lower weight.

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/7561/0620081936kw7.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger2/axlesunder4.JPG

I think your rear pinion angle is a bit steep... :p

Looks good, definitely a little more "practical", but good.

Hi

I have got the identical Braden on a 79 GMC 35 crew 4x4 as the one on your dodge.
I wondered if you could pass some info down the line about where to get parts and or if you still think this is a good winch.

Thanx Imi

PM sent.

Update's?

Nat

Ok a whole year without updates... It's been a blurrrrr... My apologies.
This '90 4wd fell in my lap as I was in the midst of converting the above '90 blue 2wd.
Needless to say the path of least resistance was taken.

Harrisburg PA fire chief vehicle... 92k on the odometer.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/saltychargersmall.jpg

Out with the corporates and in with the locked 60/70 combo etc.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/axlesout.jpg

Still need to ditch the 2" rear blocks and perform the shackle flip...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/mockedup.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/dodgepodge1stRide2wd_2.JPG

Post rear shackle flip - driveshaft modifications - crossover steering - fender trimming - etc. etc.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/ramchargerfairlystraight.jpg

More testing for additional trimming...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/ramchargerflex2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/ramchargerflex1.jpg

Strap spool and dents...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/rchargerbutt.jpg

Another year... lots more dents and a couple windshields later - front winch mount and carry position... hi-lift on the hood (yeah I'm officially hard core ha)

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/ramchargerfatlip.jpg


After a couple years of beating on it... Going under the plasma for 24" rear bob, dovetail front and rear, boat sides, hi-line flat fenders, subtle wheelbase stretch front and rear, full cage, hydro steering, 43" SXs on H1s, back to hopefully close to stock springs (get it as low as possible) vs. the current ~8" setup, etc. etc.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/ramchargerhatchcutoff.jpg

I'm still going to rockwell the blue Ramcharger and build a truck that isn't really very good at any terrain but will be a lot of fun for the boys... No one was interested in my old air force 6x6 fire truck. I have a local lead on a set of 53"s - wish they were more aggressive and 150lbs. lighter. 8-)

http://ezpickens.com/josh/stagger4x4/53sandnolift.gif

Little more progress... Going for the Gremlin/Pacer look... 8-) What you can't easily see is a 20" dove in the rear.
Hopefully after the 43s, slight front wheelbase stretch, tube fender edges, boatsides up to the lower body line, and the front end dove/hiline-flatfender treatment it won't look so Mork & Mindy... heh

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/rustyprogress%20(4).jpg

I like it but, is it just me or does it look like the rear axle needs to be pushed back?

LT.

Ok... obviously the rear fender opening gets trimmed out (farther forward) and a piece of tube frenched in along the edge where the outer and inner fenders meet when the boatsides go on... and the rear axle is moving rearward at least 2" - right now it still looks pretty silly... heh At least I'm getting the hardest part of this tranformation out of the way from the getgo... Confirming my distaste for bodywork...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/20120107whitedodgeramchargerdovetailbobbingpasshal fbackon/ramcharger3passhalfdone1.jpg

Hind sight I would have cut the pieces out so my vertical seam would have been back near/over the rear tailight area vs. lined up with the axle... It's obviously not for looks but I would like to stay a notch above the ghetto fab flames... :grinpimp:

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/20120107whitedodgeramchargerdovetailbobbingpasshal fbackon/ramcharger3passhalfdone3.jpg

10" worth of dove on each side will be the end result...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/20120107whitedodgeramchargerdovetailbobbingpasshal fbackon/ramcharger3passhalfdone4.jpg

Other side should go much quicker...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/20120107whitedodgeramchargerdovetailbobbingpasshal fbackon/ramcharger3passhalfdone5.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/20120107whitedodgeramchargerdovetailbobbingpasshal fbackon/ramcharger3passhalfdone6.jpg

Wee bit more progress...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/20120108whitedodgeramchargerdovetailbobbingdrivers halfgoingon/ramchargerbobdovereardriver1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/20120108whitedodgeramchargerdovetailbobbingdrivers halfgoingon/ramchargerbobdovereardriver2.jpg

Old variable speed turntable worked out quite nice for slicing up the ol H1s...

http://members.citynet.net/pickens/ramcharger3/20120116ramchargerprogressh1sand43s/ramchargerh1sand43s1.jpg

http://members.citynet.net/pickens/ramcharger3/20120116ramchargerprogressh1sand43s/ramchargerh1sand43s2.jpg

http://members.citynet.net/pickens/ramcharger3/20120116ramchargerprogressh1sand43s/ramchargerh1sand43s3.jpg

MMMMmmmmmm..... Butta!

http://members.citynet.net/pickens/ramcharger3/20120116ramchargerprogressh1sand43s/ramchargerh1sand43s4.jpg

Hello 43s on stock rear springs (flipped end for end moving the rear D70 backwards 4")!

http://members.citynet.net/pickens/ramcharger3/20120116ramchargerprogressh1sand43s/ramchargerh1sand43s5.jpg

http://members.citynet.net/pickens/ramcharger3/20120116ramchargerprogressh1sand43s/ramchargerh1sand43s6.jpg

http://members.citynet.net/pickens/ramcharger3/20120116ramchargerprogressh1sand43s/ramchargerh1sand43s7.jpg

NV241 clock ring to flatten the belly is in...

http://members.citynet.net/pickens/ramcharger3/nv241clockring.jpg

This thing is looking pretty cool. Kind of has a Pacer look to it. You should move the front axle forward 10".

ffd thanks for stopping by... I've read 'most' of your build thread over the years... 8-)
My quick and dirty thoughts were to run a stock rear 52" spring in the front in the proper orientation moving the front axle forward 4". Doing this at a minimum... as well as flat fendering the front to the upper body line like the rear and a 20" dove eventually. I'll french in 2" tube along the fender edges etc. I've honestly never seen anyone take the time to bob/dove the rear of a Rcharger and keep the top. I now know why... it's a major PIA!
It does have an interesting orb feel about it... reminding me of the mork & mindy egg everytime I step back to gander... heh

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/morkegg001.jpg

ffd thanks for stopping by... I've read 'most' of your build thread over the years... 8-)
My quick and dirty thoughts were to run a stock rear 52" spring in the front in the proper orientation moving the front axle forward 4". Doing this at a minimum... as well as flat fendering the front to the upper body line like the rear and a 20" dove eventually. I'll french in 2" tube along the fender edges etc. I've honestly never seen anyone take the time to bob/dove the rear of a Rcharger and keep the top. I now know why... it's a major PIA!
It does have an interesting orb feel about it... reminding me of the mork & mindy egg everytime I step back to gander... heh

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/morkegg001.jpg
Mork & Mindy - Season 1 episode 1: Pilot (part 1) - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bnwbwrOM6g)

Another wheel together and front springs swapped for factory rear 52s moving the front axle forward 4"... Sags as expected - time to add some projected ballast weight to the rear and figure out the springs... (obviously the front fenders have yet to be highlined and flattened...)

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/ramcharger3springsswapped.jpg

So you just used stock 52s what does the shackle look like hows the clearance with the cross member ?Im wana do the same with mine just haven't had time to do it yet. looks good streched

Looks like I'll be doing some trimming on the engine cross member yes... 8-)

Ok - it's back on all fours... Front suspension height is set... I love it. (stock rear 52" spring with the overload leaf removed - rear setup is the same) So nice to be able to reach into your engine compartment without getting on a stool or climbing up onto the bumper... 8-)
Rear is getting the springs moved under the frame to ~match the front spring width and add a few inches of height. It's currently a couple inches to the saggy in the rear... and there's more weight to add etc. etc.
Next on the list is to clock the xfer case up
- then build the four slider boxes
- french in the inboard spring mounts
- dial in the ride height & suspension
- refab rear driveshaft - then it'll be moving around again...
...after this - time to finish all the chop/cut crap... 8-)

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/ramcharger3on4tires.jpg

And an amateur pic of the future body lines...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/ramcharger3on4tirescutchop.jpg

Initial quick stab at slider boxes...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/sliders1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/sliders2.jpg

sweet build:smokin:. but to be honest i opened this tread a couple days ago and didnt like what i saw so i went on looking around the interwebz. but i clicked on it today a WOW that truck looks sexy strecthed. i guess i under estimated this build great job so far

lookin' good!

Im curious as to what your goin to do with the frame hangn out the back if ur keeping the leaf springs. I bobbed mine. I still have the leafs on it now they are only 6 inches pass the frake. Im lost on if i should four link it or jus leaf the leafs on it with the gaudy lookn frame hangn out pas the body

Im curious as to what your goin to do with the frame hangn out the back if ur keeping the leaf springs.

My initial calculations let me chop ~15" off the frame... That'll leave ~4" of spring/hanger sticking rearward past the 43" SXs etc.

Definitely a wicked build, here. can't wait to see more. :)

:beer: What do those 43s messure out to be by tape? Ground to top of tire. Been thinkin about a set of those but I dont know if their too small for rockwell gear ratio. Gotta change the thread title now with the 43 SXs unless your still planing on runnin some 49s, if so maybe send em this way!!

Unique, I dig it.

:beer: What do those 43s messure out to be by tape? Ground to top of tire. ********** Gotta change the thread title now with the 43 SXs unless your still planing on runnin some 49s, if so maybe send em this way!!

Well it appears to be about 40-1/4" ground to top of REAR tire with 15psi. The front is 39-3/4 - obviously having significantly more weight up there at the moment.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/43sxRear.jpg

And I tried to change the thread title months ago with apparently no luck... It does bother me a bit that it's misleading, any ideas?

And I tried to change the thread title months ago with apparently no luck... It does bother me a bit that it's misleading, any ideas?

You could get some 49s :flipoff2:

Serious though, don't let it bug you. No one really cares really it's more of the build quality, not so much tire size.

Ok leaf spring slider boxes are under way...

Took a few mins to throw together a jig in an attempt to make fairly straight cuts in the 1/4" with the plasma...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/sliderboxfabUHMWpoly1.jpg

Eh'..... fast... but will require some flap disk time etc.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/sliderboxfabUHMWpoly2.jpg

Top piece of UHMW is 'oil impregnated'... vs. the white slab on the bottom. Anyone know the diff. as far as pros/cons?

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/sliderboxfabUHMWpoly3.jpg

Well it looks like a 2" x 2.5" x 3/4" piece of UHMW poly is what the slider boxes are going to take... 3/4" diameter hole for the shoulder bolt. Cuts easy on a table saw. Will be interesting to see how well this stuff holds up. Everyone says it lasts years and years...

Well here goes the first one...

Jigged up for tacking...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/firstsliderboxtacked1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/firstsliderboxtacked2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/firstsliderboxtacked3.jpg

Tacked...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/firstsliderboxtacked4.jpg

And I have to do this how many more times ?!?!?!?!

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/firstsliderboxtacked5.jpg

Ok for all the experienced/trained/certified/whatever welders out there... Is there a trick to minimizing the pulling/warping when performing this type of weld? I try to only put down a couple inches at a time skipping around waiting for it to cool etc.
Regardless without clamping (and sometimes with) it can get out of control....
Thoughts? Thanks...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/firstsliderboxtacked6.jpg

Ok for all the experienced/trained/certified/whatever welders out there... Is there a trick to minimizing the pulling/warping when performing this type of weld? I try to only put down a couple inches at a time skipping around waiting for it to cool etc.
Regardless without clamping (and sometimes with) it can get out of control....
Thoughts? Thanks...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/firstsliderboxtacked6.jpg

Weld something between the two set the spacing and weld let it cool. Are you welding the inside too?

as far as the UHMW, the black is a much harder plastic than the white and will stand up to wear better

Whay he said or counter your welds or 45 your 2 pices so the weld gets good penatration twards the middle to reduce warping.

Weld something between the two set the spacing and weld let it cool. Are you welding the inside too?

Understood, it would be easy to tack in 2" spacers, good idea.
Yes on welding the inside - ~1" weld every 2". I did those first with the end tacks etc.
I'll clean those inside welds up with a grinder etc... if they protrude into the track area a small amount I can always put an 1/8" roundover bit in the router and radius the inside edge of the UHWM I suppose.

as far as the UHMW, the black is a much harder plastic than the white and will stand up to wear better

Gotcha - I have both... figured I'd give the 'oil impregnated' vs. a shot.

Whay he said or counter your welds or 45 your 2 pices so the weld gets good penatration twards the middle to reduce warping.

Thanks - yes, where the 1" welds are placed on the inside (towards the UHMW) I put a decent 45 on the 3/4" square stock with the 1" x 8" bench grinder wheel to get good penetration there since I didn't plan on completely welding that connection.

Hindsight - do you guys think if I weld the 3/4" solid square stock onto the 3.5" square tube BEFORE I cut the 7/8" by 10" slots it would be less likely to warp etc?
I might be able to use the welded on 3/4" solid stock as a guide for the plasma too now that I think of it......

Appreciate the quick tips fellas!
Josh

Good ideas listed above. Dont be afraid to tack shit down to your table/vice either. :D

Good ideas listed above. Dont be afraid to tack shit down to your table/vice either. :D

hahaha heard that... and I'm still laughing at your signature!

"The computer beat me at checkers once, but it was no match for me in kickboxing. "

Reminds me of a very good friend of mine... whom I met ~10 years or so ago. I'm a network admin by day and he is a dairy farmer. He was over to my previous house/garage one night watching me click away online searching for trail cams for him or something of the sort. He made a comment along the lines of my swift abilities to find what I was looking for etc. I asked him how much time he spends at a computer/online etc. His reply: "I can turn one on, I can turn one off... and I can smash it with a hammer."

Weld what you can and cut your holes last so that heat transfers evenly and isnt seperated by a space or weld and cool as you go if you have to cut your hole out damp rags work.

Wheres Dusty his weld look better than a row of 50¢ pieces haha

hahaha heard that... and I'm still laughing at your signature!

"The computer beat me at checkers once, but it was no match for me in kickboxing. "

Reminds me of a very good friend of mine... whom I met ~10 years or so ago. I'm a network admin by day and he is a dairy farmer. He was over to my previous house/garage one night watching me click away online searching for trail cams for him or something of the sort. He made a comment along the lines of my swift abilities to find what I was looking for etc. I asked him how much time he spends at a computer/online etc. His reply: "I can turn one on, I can turn one off... and I can smash it with a hammer."

Allllllllmost sig worthy. :D

Keep it up with the build. I need some inspiration for my own junk.

7 more to go...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/h1insertbandsaw.jpg

4 down 4 to go...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/h1insert4togo.jpg

I think we got sidetracked tonight... Who walked out with the 43s ???

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/isthisprogress.jpg

Hey man if you ever need an extra runflat i have 3 of them in preston county. Im on the jeep site also Ramajeep is my s/n over there

I got alot of stuff done on mine. Dovenose is all did up

I got alot of stuff done on mine. Dovenose is all did up

Hey it's lookin' good!

Last night we got 7 of the 8 mag inserts cut/chiseled/flapped and prepped... band saw blade broke on the last one right after I made the comment "last one, probably break a blade..." 8-)
We also eradicated all the factory rear suspension mounts & misc. non-needed mounts/things and are ready to move the springs under the frame and get the back end suspension buttoned up.

One slider box done... 3 to go.
Two rear fixed hanger mounts bolted to the frame - supporting brackets left to fab.
I'll finish another slider then mock up the rear springs, new axle mount pads, and slider boxes to see how the arse end is going to sit on the new fandangled suspension arrangement...
Rear spring width center/center is changing from factory outboarded springs @ 43" OC to under the frame mount springs @ ~35" OC - should help it flex a bit more in the rear...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/h1innershells.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/h1outershell.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/h1outershellpainted.jpg

'cause she said white is alright!

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/bettywhitepower.jpg

Yay or Ghey??? hahaha

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/h1paintedmountedwhiteblack1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/h1paintedmountedwhiteblack2.jpg

Looks cool. Might there be a TAD more trimming involved? That is a big shoe to fit. :D

This is awesome. Not to hijack but I'm building your original Ramcharger plan in 1:10 scale with the bobbed rear and everything.

I don't wanna thread jack you so I'll just post one pic but if you're interested I can give you a link to my build thread.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/rambuller84/RC%20stuff/IMG_6153.jpg

Just think how much lighter your truck would be with 'pop bottle' plastic body panels!? :D

I don't wanna thread jack you so I'll just post one pic but if you're interested I can give you a link to my build thread.


No worries my man! I'm so glad you did... that is awesome!! I tried to get one of those proline or procomp ramcharger bodies last fall but they quite producting them some time ago the fella on the phone told me. He even strolled through the warehouse for a bit to poke around and came up with nothing etc. etc.
Definitely post up the build thread!!! I have new inspiratioN! haha

Looks cool. Might there be a TAD more trimming involved? That is a big shoe to fit.
Haha. It's not setting right as is - in the middle of swapping on the slider boxes - plus the front fenders haven't been hi-lined yet. The rear fender openings are roughed in at best as well... Check on previous pages for a pic I paintchopped to show the boatsides and hi-line'd fenders etc.

No worries my man! I'm so glad you did... that is awesome!! I tried to get one of those proline or procomp ramcharger bodies last fall but they quite producting them some time ago the fella on the phone told me. He even strolled through the warehouse for a bit to poke around and came up with nothing etc. etc.
Definitely post up the build thread!!! I have new inspiratioN! haha

Thanks!! These Ramchargers are really hard to find now and about $60 if you do find one. :eek: Here's the build thread when ya get time to check it out. When I'm done it will have front and rear winches and run on 14.8V LiPo power.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/2-2-scale-rigs/365792-ramcharger-ttc-truggy.html

Keep up the good work on your build!

white on whites pimpin man! sheesh you didnt know? but seriously more updates :evil:

So I feel like we're over the hump and it's starting to go back together...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/goingbacktogether/1.jpg

Bumper isn't near finished... but would technically work as/is.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/goingbacktogether/2.jpg

D-ring mounts will be beveled & strapped w/ 3/8" - Gusset/brace will come up from three top outside edges of slider box and taper up to just underneath D-ring mounts/tabs.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/goingbacktogether/3.jpg

Rear is almost as low as it will be when complete - more weight will be added which will obviously settle it an additional inch or two...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/goingbacktogether/4.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/goingbacktogether/5.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/goingbacktogether/6.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/goingbacktogether/7.jpg

Sliders turned out HELLA NICE

Love the sliders, very interested to see how those work out for ya.

I'm probably missing something but it seems like now you have minimal uptravel before you max out the sliders? Looks like the block will go right off the rear of the slider?

Look a little closer.

Thanks fellas... yes it's hard to tell but the springs are only a few inches from flat at best when at ride height w/ typical cargo etc.
My methodology was to take a stiff wire and 'tie' it to each center bolt on one spring lying it along side the arc... then pull it straight to simulate the spring flattening out. Doesn't grow hardly an inch... then I left another half inch for 'miscalculation' lets call it. What I'm trying to say is that the center bolt on the rear of the spring in the slider box should never 'bottom out' (for lack of better words) and make contact with the rear of the slot.
I have a ride on the 18th of April - it'll be functional but far from done. 8-)

That rear mount/bumper brings the beef. I have seen the sliders before but am curious to see how they work.

nice pile of drive shafts

That rear mount/bumper brings the beef. I have seen the sliders before but am curious to see how they work.

I imagine they work pretty smooth but I would be concerned about the amount of droop you would lose due to not having a shackle. Leaf springs are reliable and can flex decently but one of their main points is droop and I would think a circle track style slider would defeat that.

That rear mount/bumper brings the beef. I have seen the sliders before but am curious to see how they work.

Ditto on this, I would be interested in seeing a video of the suspension cycling when it's done. Could be interesting...

Agree w/last two posts. I do believe you could achieve more total droop with a properly set up shackle. Half the fun is building something different. I will say pros of this system would be strength/presicion/fitment etc. - but the immediate con is the main leaf will be asked to take all the abuse. There is give in a shackle that is all but gone in a slider box with this much beef and tight tolerances. I'll carry a spare main leaf as well as an extra set of UHMW pucks & poly spring bushings. The slider boxes have been far more work than what I originally estimated. I often pondered mounting them at angles as well... but went flat for first shot simplicity. Nothing is welded to the frame - could be angled with front/rear bumper mods. Technically could be swapped out to a shackle setup with a rear bumper swap as well. Make one with shackles and switch it back and forth to keep people guessing... ha. Regardless, I'll post up all the nitty gritty of how well it does/doesn't work after the trip we're taking to Harlan KY 18th -> 22nd April.

*edit*
Yes - I would have been finished with a 3 or 4 link setup by now... 8-)

Figured out the front suspension/crossmember mount. Turns out I can just spin the factory crossmember 180 deg. to move the radiator core support rearward the 2" I was looking for. The factory design of it has the body mount holes ~2" off-center. 8-) This is required to get the fenders to line up when doving them inwards 10" on each side. Of course that is coupled with narrorwing the radiator support 20" and slightly 'rotating forward' the area containing the headlight bucket when welding it back together. My headlights will be a little cross-eyed... ha

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontcrossmember180spin1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontcrossmember180spin2.jpg

So I liked Mykals idea of setting the rear bumper down 2" to make it look less like I welded a piece of rectangular tubing to the arse end... I'm going to use that design technique in the front as well. In addition I'll bring the top down 2" in the center and the winch mount plate will be exactly level with that factory cross member - thus giving me the ability to tie them together with 4 bolts under the radiator crossmember.
Here's the first shot at chiseling up the stick of 3x8 1/4" wall rect. tube for the front bumper. It'll have 1-1/2" x 2" protruding solid bar stock for D ring mounts as well. Of course the slider boxes will be nestled under the outboard ends of the bumper like the rear - BUT they will be flush and not stick out 2-1/2" like the rear...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumper.jpg

Ok - rear suspension works... Threw it together for testing purposes - 3-4 more hrs. worth of things to do in the arse end etc.
~10" droop and 5" compression from ride height (which is going to be almost 3" of arch still in the spring we guess...)
Ordered a set of pro comp ES3000 shocks w/15" of travel... 336000 part number $38 a piece from 4wheelparts
Going from 27" shocks to 36"ers...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/rearsuspensiondroop.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/rearsuspensioncompression1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/rearsuspensioncompression2.jpg

any plans for leaf spring clamps?

I doubt it would flex as much (not that flex is everything) but would probably help keep the main leaf alive.

Also, plans for a traction bar? I wouldn't think those leafs would survive very long without one.

Looks good!

I cut the factory clamps off about 10 minutes before this pic. 8-)
It added about 4" of droop cutting them.
yes - plan to fab a traction bar(s) at some point after testing etc.
thanks...

I cut the factory clamps off about 10 minutes before this pic. 8-)
It added about 4" of droop cutting them.
yes - plan to fab a traction bar(s) at some point after testing etc.
thanks...

You are going to want to put those clamps back on. That main leaf WILL break, not IF. That is, if you are going to wheel it, and not be a RTI ramp champ:flipoff2:....Looks good though.

You are going to want to put those clamps back on. That main leaf WILL break, not IF.

Something like this.
http://www.bsfab.net/gallery.php?cmd=midsize&gallery=rear_suspension%2F&image=img_2405.jpg

Setting up the front slider boxes and fabbing up the front bumper today (which is 75% of the support for these boxes other than the outboard frame bracket that'll have wings running out etc.)

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontsliderboxsetup1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontsliderboxsetup2.jpg

Front spring rear brackets are complete and ready to go. 3 bolts up through the frame as well as 1/4" outside and 3/8" inside plate supports that capture the factory spring hangar cast bracket on each side that is riveted to the frame rail with a 7/8 bolt (cut the bushings out).

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontspringrearhangercomplete.jpg

It all bolts on... which is more work that simply welding it on. I figure when I trash this Ramchargers frame I could swap it over to another quite easily - or a dodge truck frame for that matter. Chop to length and drill a few 1/2" holes in strategic locations.

Should have the d60 swung back under it tomorrow and finally see how it's going to sit.

Thing is looking amazing. Been working on getting my 84 Pickup trail ready, and now have a few more ideas I may want to try. Keep us updated on your progress.

Woops... Just realized I forgot to post these intial front bumper/suspension mount pics as I was cutting up the 3x8 and tacking everything together...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumpertack1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumpertack2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumpertack3.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumpertack4.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumpertack5.jpg

Here's where I am now... took a bit to layout the winch mounting holes onto the 5/16" plate that ties back into the factory crossmember (which has the radiator support holes moved back 2" by spinning it 180 deg.) as well as tucking the roller fairlead tight up against it by drilling/tapping the winch itself along with a couple tabs on the front face of the bumper. I wanted it back in against the radiator support as tight as possible - which put the face of the winch flush with the front of the bumper.
Otherwise - should have it welded up before dawn etc.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumperprogress1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumperprogress2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumperprogress3.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumperprogress4.jpg

That front looks BEEF as hell! good lay out.

Any plans to box the front frame rails? With that strong of a bumper up front, anything you bump will transfer the hit to the frame and most likely bend it back at the engine crossmember.

I've thought about that quite a bit... Actually the grand scheme of things will be the cage coming through the firewall down to a poly mount right at the back of that front bumper on either side in attempts to eliminate (or at least prolong) what you describe. Kinda triangulate back etc. The front end will flex much more now without inner fenders - probably wont get new ones fabbed up anytime soon. I did notice, which I had looked at quite a bit back in the day, how much thicker the 3/4 & 1 ton frames are... My 87 d250 frame is 'almost' twice as thick at a quick glance... I also thought about swapping out the 3/4 ton front frame half back to under the doors somewhere if the ramcharger frame bites the dust... no research beyond a thought has gone into that tho. But all played a factor in when I decided to make everything 'bolt on' haha.
Any thoughts on the situation are greatly appreciated... Only because I have a 1 ton (which is stripped) and 3/4 (truck is actually running but of not much value) frames that are in A1 shape (back past the cabs anywho 8-) would I even ponder swapping out frame rails... I assume they are fairly identical (at least for the 3/4 ton as far as actual frame height) as a Ramcharger until they go past the front doors... where the truck frames rise quicker vs. the Rcharger frame staying flatter longer for obvious reasons. Know of any good comparison links over on RCC that lay out the differences between truck and Rcharger frames? I believe the w350 frame I have (which was actually an 89 chassis cab) has taller main rails.

I have no info beyond thoughts myself either but I know a ton of Blazer frames that have gone to scrap kinking at the firewall after a front hit. I'd run the cage the full length of the frame and call it a day, I'm sure that would lend enough additional support.

Good point, I wasn't aware that a full cage was in the plans. That should go a long way to reinforce the frame. No one wants to hit anything anyway but it would suck to have to start on a new frame if it got jacked up.

Front bumper ready to mount, HD tie-rod built & hydro steering tacked.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumperfront.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontbumperback.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/hydrosteeringtacked1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/hydrosteeringtacked2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/hydrosteeringtacked3.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/hydrosteeringtacked4.jpg

Back on it's feet as of last night... still tons to do. UPS lost my NWF black box on the 21st of March in New Stanton PA - this is the biggest hurdle I have right now getting the drivetrain done & the floor welded up... Next is the hydro setup & misc. eng. stuff, then dove the front. Then jump to the back and finish tailgate, roof bodywork, fuel cell, battery etc. etc.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/d60underfront.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/d60underside.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/d60underrear.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/d60clearance1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/d60clearance2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/d60hydrotabs.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/tierodhydrotabs.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontsliderbox.jpg

Well that sucks about the black box.
Hope that fugger shows up on my porch. :D

Just a little FYI, put some lock tight on the bolts holding on the diff cover. Mine would loosen up with the ram attached to it. If you run in the rocks often, do NOT put locktight on the bottom 3 bolts. They will get smashed up and you won't be able to get a hex head in them, therefore you will have a hard time getting them off on the trail, if the need to remove the diff cover ever arises.

AGNSho - good tip... I will do that. My first full hydro setup - it's going much smoother than I anticipated. Clearancing the eng. crossmember for the d60 - it was pretty tight. Giving it another 3" of headroom and rebracing it etc.

Dove has begun... got the 20" narrowing laid out on the radiator support - that's going to be easier than I thought. Shouldn't look toooo ghetto... 8-)

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/dove1pass.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/dove2pass.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/narrowradiatorsupport.jpg

Building the hydro bracket...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/hydrobracket1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/hydrobracket2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/hydrobracket3.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/hydrobracket4.jpg

Laying out the radiator support 22" chop...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/radsupport22inch1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/radsupport22inch2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/radsupport22inch3.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/radsupport22inch4.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/radsupport22inch5.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/radsupport22inch6.jpg

Getting closer on the radiator support... lot of clamping and riveting... didn't feeling like cleaning everything up for much welding. 8-)

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/radsupport1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/radsupport2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/radsupport3.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/radsupport4.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/radsupport5.jpg

Feels like we're gettin' somewhere now...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontdove1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontdove2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontdove3.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontdove4.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontdove5.jpg

You sir are Mr. :mr-t:

I've been gawking for a good time. So there, I said it. :)

Nice build, getting some ideas for my ride from your build.

Looks sweet, love the dove nose.

Are you planning on flipping the orbital 180º? Pretty sure it would be hard to bleed air out of lines that exit towards the ground.

Are you planning on flipping the orbital 180º?

yes - thanks for noticing... had it flipped to keep muck off it while fitting everything up etc.

jopickens. . . bravo sir ! Very informative and detailed build , and very cool fab work . I'm enjoying this thread a lot .
I've an 87 that's just begging to be chopped up , and this is the route I'd like to be able to go . Lots of interesting 'brain candy' to ponder .

Thanks for the pictures and info .

Updates... been so busy working on this pile I hadn't posted much lately...

Hydro steering is complete minus a couple 'just in case' clamps on the tank connection/feed to the pump.
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/hydrosteeringcomplete.jpg

Test fitting the black 'er... silver' box and thinking through the clocking about 45 times (complicated because you can clock it both on the black box and on the 3/4" spacer ring I needed - as well as keeping in play the slots in the mounting foot to keep it flat - to boot).
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/blackbox1.jpg

Checking the seal engagement... np241d version of the 241 has a long snout - hence the need for a spacer (or you could chop the femal input of the xfer case down...).
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/blackbox2.jpg

It's in there...
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/blackbox3.jpg

First step to achieving a flat belly is a flat crossmember I guess... Picked a piece out of the junk pile and hacked on some 6" C channel for a bit.
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/trannyxfercasexmember1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/trannyxfercasexmember2.jpg

Then one must tighten their belt a bit...
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/tummytuckhack.jpg

After you throw the 241 on your shoulder for the last time - finally remembering to put the gasket on it... The drivetrain lifting is complete.
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/flatdrivetrain1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/flatdrivetrain2.jpg

Still need to drill for the mount bolts etc.
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/flatdrivetrain3.jpg

Not sure how crazy I am about the big ol rectangular lights I found and threw at it... They'll do for now.
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/quadlights1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/quadlights2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/quadlights3.jpg

Nice aggressive looking stance on the front.
Man that box is a pretty bit of machining.

how come you went with a 241? i couldn't wait to ditch it in favor of a 205. ive got a 23 spline pass drop 205 sitting here.

That looks awesome!
I like the square lights, just not their location. You don't have a whole lot of places to go with them though.

Looks great! I want a black box to put infront of my Atlas.

how come you went with a 241? i couldn't wait to ditch it in favor of a 205. ive got a 23 spline pass drop 205 sitting here.

Agreed, the NP241 has a better low range but for me, that doesn't make up for the pure beef of the NP205, especially if you have a gear doubler in the mix. Make sure you keep that NP241 overfilled with it clocked like that or it won't keep the bearings lubed.

Nice aggressive looking stance on the front.
Man that box is a pretty bit of machining.

Kris at NWF really took care of me... first class bunch up there if you ask me.

how come you went with a 241? i couldn't wait to ditch it in favor of a 205. ive got a 23 spline pass drop 205 sitting here.

Thanks - I've got a pile of 205s... when I run through all my 241s I'll swich. 8-) Honestly tho... I may switch sooner than later... 7.4 : 1 is a bit steep... The 205 combo is a bit more friendly at 5.4 : 1
My guess is the tired ol 5.2 should tear too much up in the way of tranny/doubler/xfer - probably start snapping stub shafts on the 60 since I haven't upgraded them.
Should I get a wild hair and drop a 440 in it the 205 would definitely be part of that plan.

Agreed, the NP241 has a better low range but for me, that doesn't make up for the pure beef of the NP205, especially if you have a gear doubler in the mix. Make sure you keep that NP241 overfilled with it clocked like that or it won't keep the bearings lubed.

Thanks for the tip - when I took a break and sat down here a few mins ago I was actually going to start searching for 'how full' folks that run a 241 flat keep them. Thoughts on that? Till it pours out the factory fill plug that is now much higher in altitude? No high speed road driving for this guy... 8-)

Agreed, the NP241 has a better low range but for me, that doesn't make up for the pure beef of the NP205, especially if you have a gear doubler in the mix. Make sure you keep that NP241 overfilled with it clocked like that or it won't keep the bearings lubed.

one other thing is you get better gearing with a 205 and a crawl box you get
1.96 -1 2.72-1 5.33-1. with the 241 you get two gears 2.72-1 and 7.39-1

i havent broke a 241 but i have a feeling if i had a crawl box in front of one it
would go bye-bye very fast

Well... it's alive!
Over the fuel pump issues for the moment...
Ran it twice today for testing purposes without a front driveshaft. Quickly figured out a couple bump adjustments. Otherwise first impressions on full-hydro is that it drives like a tractor! HA First impressions on the black box... sweet! I thought 7.4 : 1 when it and the xfer were both in low range would be too slow... not the case with an auto. I can imagine it getting out of control with the deep first of an old granny 4spd or nv4500/5600 etc.
Anywho... front driveshaft is fabbed - building the crossmember for it now. It needed a carrier bearing to get around the tranny dipsick bumpout on the A518. I started out with a ~2005 CTD rear shaft with factory carrier bearing etc. Cut each end down and put 1410 yokes in them. I'm sure since I have the upper half of the shaft down @ 4 deg. and outboard @ 4 deg. it'll probably vibrate. I only use it in low speed situations so time will tell in a few hrs. when I first test it out. 8-)
Lots of other misc. items to finish up for the Harlan KY trip next Wed. - everything else I would like to build will be considered phase III.
Josh

Man I didnt know you had a thread on here. That is probably the best looking pinch on the front that I've seen on a Dodge. You've did a hell of a job.....but it does remind me of a Pacer. :D

Amazing enough my front driveshaft which I refab'd from a rear ~2005 CTD carrier bearing setup spins with no vibrations! Really... I still have a hole in the floor and can drive down the road with my hand on the carrier bearing support. haha
Anywho... probably last few pics I'll post before Harlan on Wed. due to the long list of wiring and detail work that needs completed.

Fabbin' rear shaft out of leftover pieces...
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/reardriveshaftfab.jpg

Kinky front shaft... 8-) (I hadn't zipped the slip shaft boot on before taking these pics FYI) I forget how LONG it was when I started... I believe at ride height after shortening both ends it's currently at 52"
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontdriveshaft.jpg

General underneath 1
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/under1.jpg

General underneath 2
http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/under2.jpg

On the filling of the transfer case, I'd fill it up to where both shafts are about half under the level. It may foam it a bit and puke some out the vent but that would be a good starting point. You go too low at the rear output and the pump won't be able to pick the fluid up.

Thanks - I'll double check it before we pull Wednesday.

Wiring is 95% complete... for this phase of the build anywho...

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/battbox1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/battbox2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/battbox3.jpg

Moving along HELLA fast. Don't you ever sleep?

QUOTE: Kris at NWF really took care of me... first class bunch up there if you ask me.

No shit to that! spoke with em about high steer arms and they were happy to answer all my questions.

Arms showed up Friday, these things are beefy and pretty.

http://ezpickens.com/josh/ramcharger3/frontdriveshaft.jpg

so, i happen to be trying to get setup for a front 2 piece driveshaft, but my understand was that you want the carrier bearing as close to the forward ujoint as possible.... seems like yours is hanging out there a ways.... is there any worry about torque on the joint area?

When you're running a slip yoke type setup like that there's no way around it.

I had my first 2pc front set up that way and broke it twice, I now have a normal slip lower portion.

ahhhh now i see there isn't a slip in the lower portion.... i see why it was done this way now.

makes sense as to why now.

Yeah I was using what I had... which was free minus my time shortening it and two $30 weld in 1410 yokes for 3.5" tube off ebay. 8-)

At ride height the front shaft is at ~15 deg. - it slips in and out, smoothly I guess one would say, as you bounce the suspension...
The rear shaft is at ~18 deg. @ ride height - probably less now that I'm partially loaded for a trip to Harlan later today... 8-)
Josh

now that I'm partially loaded for a trip to Harlan later today... 8-)
Josh

Hope the shakedown is smooth!

Harlan KY Black Mountain Off Road Park was great... drizzled off/on Saturday - kept us out of Lions Den and off Mason Jar unfortunately. Need to finish the boatsides, cage, belly skid, and exo-upper-rub-rails before those guys anywho. Otherwise it's extreme upper body damage to a full size rig in those forced tight/off camber spots. Regardless all 12 rigs in our group had a blast and we shook all the bugs out of the white Ramcharger. Hydro steering worked wonderful - still a tractor like feel at speed. Need some more spring all the way around. After it's full of gas, tools, parts, people, beer & snacks... I ended up with ~2" of uptravel vs. the desired 4-5. Bumps got a workout - but I took it easy on the chassis. Belly skid wasn't needed this past weekend, but would definitely be required on the two trails mentioned above. Removeable winders for the rear would have been a big plus. 8-)

Top of the mountain...
http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/topofmountain.jpg

Jeep and the Heap...
http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/friendsjeep.jpg

Checking something...
http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/checkingsomething.jpg

Bumbling along...
http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/bobblingalong.jpg

Ramming speed!
http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/tbone.jpg

What do you see under there? Rocks...
http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/seethatrock.jpg

Damnation trail I believe...
http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/damnation1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/damnation2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/damnation3.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/damnation4.jpg

Little waterfall...
http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/wf1.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/wf2.jpg

http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/wf3.jpg

Man that thing is ugly....i mean unique.

How did the sliders work? Any video? Looks like a fun trip.

real unique i love how low it is!

2012 Harlay KY Dodge Podge Waterfall Stagger4x4 HCOR trip - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QSIBYIOBTo#)

COOOOL!

So what did you think?

Anything you were impressed by? Or might do differently?

What did you think of your SLIDERS?

Looked Mighty Bad Ass from Here. :D

Looks good. I think you are going to want to get that cage in there asap.

I may have missed it, but what front locker are you running?

What yoke are you running on your 241. I cant seem to find anything different the the factort small one. Thanks for the help

Cool build! I am digging it. The driving Miss Daisy thing is cool to. Your homeboy in the back looks comfortable. :grinpimp:

http://ezpickens.com/josh/201204HarlanKY/wf2.jpg

Man I didnt know you had a thread on here. That is probably the best looking pinch on the front that I've seen on a Dodge. You've did a hell of a job.....but it does remind me of a Pacer. :D



I was leaning a bit towards a Gremlin :D

Looks unique climbing around in the pictures , very tough . I like it :smokin:

When you're running a slip yoke type setup like that there's no way around it. I had my first 2pc front set up that way and broke it twice, I now have a normal slip lower portion.

Update on that crazy front shaft I made... here's the skinny.
4wd w/o the hubs locked in - no vibes at any speed. Shaft seems to be happy spinning free...
2wd w/the hubs locked in - no vibes at any speed. Shaft, again, seems to be happy being spun by the front axle.
4wd w/the hubs locked in - generally no vibes minus going uphill??? Obviously different than the first two examples your transmitting torque through the shaft turning the front axle/tires etc.
When your travelling at, say, 10+mph going uphill you get what I would call an annoying vibration right near the carrier bearing.
Anywho - I'll have to do some more experimenting to give you guys better info. but it is actually is doing what I expected it to... vibrate. haha With the black box it's so easy to pop into 2wd low range and run around I probably will never mess with that front driveshaft until it fails... which will more than likely be the rubber surrounding the carrier bearing blah blah blah

How did the sliders work? Any video? Looks like a fun trip.

You know... they appeared to work great. It feels VERY solid at all points of suspension travel... I didn't notice any wheel hop either. Of course that may be due to the 170hp limitation of the 318. haha
I can't remember clearly if my previous shackle setup had side/side slop while wheelin' harder/more technical trails... but I never put it to the test like I did this setup the first weekend out either.
Regardless - I don't have any complaints yet - put it thatta way. :)

looks good. I think you are going to want to get that cage in there asap.

yes...

I may have missed it, but what front locker are you running?

I'm still running the lock-rights I put in the D60/70 13 years ago... I always said when they went I'd spool the 70 and put an ox-locker in the 60 - but, knock on wood, they still clickity click like when they were new! It's really only a matter of time... but in my relatively low hp situation they have seemed to survive just fine. The 43SXs at 4psi will probably eventually do them in. That or the stock 30spln 60 stubs up front I'm still running... 8-)

What yoke are you running on your 241. I cant seem to find anything different the the factort small one. Thanks for the help

If memory serves me right... when I went to 1410 yokes on the np241 I sourced them from the rear outputs of a couple of my 205s. For instance an 89-93 dodge 3/4 or 1 ton cummins diesel had 1410 ujoints in the rear driveshaft. When you put that yoke in your np241 tho... you have to go to a seal with a larger ID for the thicker yoke blah blah. I have that part # somewhere if you need it. Wait... walk across the shop - Napa 21061 (Chicago Rawhide Seal the box states). I also have written on a note in this box National Seal part # 473204 (must have purchased a national seal from Advance Auto Parts for this application as well at one point) - FYI.

Ahh i c. I was thinkn a 205 but wasnt 100% sure on spline count and diameter. Im running the stocker up on the t case and a 1350 on the 14 bolt end. Thanks for.the.info

How does your t-case crossmember handle the torque of the motor. I did almost the same thing under my RC when I swapped in a 440. I mounted the trans to a 6" piece of chanel and used the same 6 holes in the bottom of the frame to hold it in there. I thought I was going to roll the motor out of the thing as much as it was flexing and I was just loping around the neighborhood... I haven't figured out how I'm going to stiffen this up yet so any ideas you have or experience would be appreciated.

Thanks
Dave

The transmission mount is just a pivot and keeps the drivetrain inline with the frame. If the engine is rocking excessively, check the engine mounts, particularly the driver side mount. You can use the beefier mounts from a '89-'93 Cummins diesel truck or just use normal mounts with some method of restraining the rocking motion of the engine. A stock 360 has the torque to rip a stock mount apart under the right conditions so I typically chain the drive side down on most of my Mopars that aren't using elephant ears. Naturally that just handles rocking in forward gears so in the case of a 4WD it may be necessary to restrain both sides since it's possible that you make torque up the engine in reverse which rocks the engine in the opposite direction.

Hey man long time no speak. Im traden off my 85 rc for a 90 rc wit the 318 and wat not. Anywho i was just curouis on the tbi. Manily have yoy ever found the limit on when it runs out of fuel. Jus curious. I had a 91 a few yeare ago but never pushed it as hard as i plan to push this one

Pushing it as far as what? Horsepower modifications? If that's the case, you can't go real far as the system is not tunable and you can quickly get outside of the parameters that the system was designed to deal with. With a 318, you can get a little more room to work with by swapping in a 360 computer, throttle body, injectors, etc. There are a few people over on RCC that have liked the TBI engines for a bit more power with varying degrees of success so you might want to search over there.

Pushing as far as angles and hills. Im gettn rid of my 85 just for the tbi
On the 90.

With the TBI, it will run upside down if you could keep the oil in it.