I was just wondering whats the difference between the np241 and np241 heavy duty version on a dodge ram? I know the HD version has the PTO gear, but is there any other difference?

I have a 2001 dodge ram with an automatic that originally had the np241hd and I was wondering what other types of transfercases would work with that transmission

np205
Atlas II and III
Just need the right adapter
I'm going to go with the 205 when I cross that bridge

You can use a regular 241DLD. My truck came with a DLD and I swapped in a DHD for a few years until the fork tabs wore out. Swapped the DLD right back in.

You can use a regular 241DLD. My truck came with a DLD and I swapped in a DHD for a few years until the fork tabs wore out. Swapped the DLD right back in.

So have you ever had both t-cases apart to compare parts? I'm really curious to know what the differences are...

I can tell you that the 241DLD that is behind my Cummins has heavier duty parts in it than a GM 241 but that's where my knowledge of the 241 stops.

Also, did you have to change driveshaft lengths to swap between the DLD and DHD?

So have you ever had both t-cases apart to compare parts? I'm really curious to know what the differences are...

I can tell you that the 241DLD that is behind my Cummins has heavier duty parts in it than a GM 241 but that's where my knowledge of the 241 stops.

Also, did you have to change driveshaft lengths to swap between the DLD and DHD?

Darko's most likely looking for alternatives to the DHD due to the prices associated with them (even though they are prone to cracking). IIRC, this is his 2nd DHD in a work truck that cracked.

As for the differences, the DHD has an additional bearing on the rear output, of course the PTO, and the case has a higher fluid capacity. I've been told they are prone to fluid loss through the rear seal while driving due to deflection of the rear slip yoke. Mine lost its fluid and never left a puddle, which is what led to the pads wearing out and the eventual failure. Very irritating.

I've never laid the internals side-by-side. The only thing I think they are good for anymore is stock trucks and you still need to keep an eye on them.

I did not have to change the driveshaft, but I have a quad-cab longbed with a 2-pc shaft and carrier bearing. Guess the slip was enough. U-joints are the same size, but the rear outputs were not, so the yoke for the DLD is required if you do it.

I did not have to change the driveshaft, but I have a quad-cab longbed with a 2-pc shaft and carrier bearing. Guess the slip was enough. U-joints are the same size, but the rear outputs were not, so the yoke for the DLD is required if you do it.

so the DLD is just the non heavy duty version of the 241? It pretty irritating that this is the 2nd tcase that cracked on the truck...We bought this one in it now for over 1k from the dealer.

So a dodge 241 out of a normal 4x4 auto and the output slip yoke should be everything I need to swap over?

so the DLD is just the non heavy duty version of the 241? It pretty irritating that this is the 2nd tcase that cracked on the truck...We bought this one in it now for over 1k from the dealer.

I'd say you have a problem outside the case that may be causing them to crack. Is the truck stock or has it been lifted? Are you sure the driveshafts are the correct length?

so the DLD is just the non heavy duty version of the 241? It pretty irritating that this is the 2nd tcase that cracked on the truck...We bought this one in it now for over 1k from the dealer.

Yes. DLD = Dodge Light Duty. I paid $600 for my "rebuilt" one from Zemco's in Clare.

So a dodge 241 out of a normal 4x4 auto and the output slip yoke should be everything I need to swap over?

Mostly. Its going to depend on what year case you get. I put a 96DHD in a 98, so the shift pattern was backwards and the shift rod needed to be adjusted due to the different throw range (simple). My shifter crashed into the interior trim at first. The 97-down trucks had a goofy-shaped shifter lever.