using for steel? any good write ups

thanks

I don't get it. This is a trick question, right? No, really, where's the camera?

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
using for steel? any good write ups

thanks

I melt down Yogo's and Hondas..... and soup cans.

well what size of tubing are you using for your spring mounts?

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
well what size of tubing are you using for your spring mounts?

Mild steel, probably 2"x2". Think about what the mounts need to be able to do, then it all makes sense.

BTW..... :flipoff2: for the Newbie question :flipoff2:

Here you go newbie :flipoff2:

http://www.off-road.com/~jweed/rshackle.htm

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
using for steel? any good write ups

thanks

Skip the RS. Leave it shackle forward.

Yeah, shackle in the back is so bad that all of the major manufacturers use it on their light and medium duty trucks. ;)



I almost did one yesterday, we were gonna use hitch tubing and 1/4"

oh, lordy, here we go again.

instentanous physics and black magic voodoo VS. system physics and popular opinion.

Originally posted by mike
Yeah, shackle in the back is so bad that all of the major manufacturers use it on their light and medium duty trucks. ;)



I almost did one yesterday, we were gonna use hitch tubing and 1/4"

Almost only counts in hand grenades and horse shoes :flipoff2:

Trust me the RS would have caused many a more problems (caster, d-line, drive shaft, etc).

Joe

Originally posted by jdjanda


Trust me the RS would have caused many a more problems (caster, d-line, drive shaft, etc).

Joe
Not if its done right. And I've done a few... well ok, a lot of them

i love how people talk about how you do a shackle reversal so that the wheel moves up and back on compresion.. yes it does, AS LONG AS YOUR SPRING HAS POSITIVE ARCH.

we all know that s flat spring thas better travel, right? ok, well a flat spring with the shakle reversal moves forward on compresion... hmmm...

so yes, some manufactures used front shackles ie: jeep and heavy ford etc.. but they had ether a flat or negitivly arched spring.

i guess it all depends on how you want your suspension to work.
me.. ill keep the shackles up front and pick up some of those rancho 36" long shocks since my 5012's limit me in both directions.

Originally posted by mike
Yeah, shackle in the back is so bad that all of the major manufacturers use it on their light and medium duty trucks. ;)



I almost did one yesterday, we were gonna use hitch tubing and 1/4"

Just because a particular suspension is popular among manufacturers does not, in any way, mean it is the right suspension, or a good suspension.

By your argument, the only vehicle to have would be a Honda Accord or a Jeep.

Get a new argument, then come back when you have something to talk about.

You have done lots of RS? Why? What significant advantage does it offer, other than it smooths out the speedbumps at the mall?

Never mind. I don't want to rehash yesterdays discussion. Somehow I doubt there is anything on this subject that has not been beaten to a bloody pulp and left to die alongside the road. There is no convincing argument for either system. Shackle forward works great for me.

And, no, flat springs do not necessarily give the best flex. I agree that highly arched springs are not the best choice, but that does not mean that flat is. Depends on many factors.

I favor my 25 year old stock springs, but mine are not flat at rest. They still have some positive arch in them. They are very flexible, despite not being flat.

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
using for steel? any good write ups

thanks
My RS system is made of 1/4" plate, and is machined and fully seam welded all the way around...

Originally posted by Snoopy

My RS system is made of 1/4" plate, and is machined and fully seam welded all the way around...


Machined???? I'm confused, why would you machine it??


3x4, 3x3, or, if you can find it, 2.5x whatever, square or rectangular tube.

1/4" wall. Do some math (subtract 1/2") and you get the ID of the tube, compare that to the width (with bushings) of your spring, and there you have it, no machining nessesry :D :flipoff2:


or you could build them from scratch and just weld them up from 1/4" stock... or thicker if you want.....

Originally posted by jdjanda
Here you go newbie :flipoff2:

http://www.off-road.com/~jweed/rshackle.htm

OH HOW COULD YOU DO IT ~ how could you send him to the ROCK-FANG page.....:eek: :eek: :eek:

Originally posted by Snoopy


OH HOW COULD YOU DO IT ~ how could you send him to the ROCK-FANG page.....:eek: :eek: :eek:

Because it's a good place to start. :rolleyes:

Pay some respect to the man Mr Weed.

Rock fang page...ha ha ha lol...ho ho ho..whew.

I look at it like if I am going to go spring over and do this with hy-steer stuff and do that and this...then yeah I might go with an RS set-up.

But hey, I have a mild Rancho lift, body lift, taller than stock shackles, and most importantly it works...so why fuck with it?

anybody wanna buy som 8" center to center shackles?

hears the scoop

i'm throwing in a chev 44 and the spring are coming out as well so i thought since I was in ther why not do a SR insted of having then big gesus shackels the PO instaled

so all I was asking what do you recomend? should I bother i got the tools and the steel I can get no problem.

Is that link a bad disingn?

Let me see, reasons to do it? mostly because 60mph across desert washboard roads is actually fun! BTW at least my agruement had more to it than (paraphrasing) Dont do it :rolleyes: now THAT was a real effective arguement. Especially for someone so quick to tell me to get a new arguement and come back. And as far as Im concerned being able to progress at speed across bumpy terrain and still have some control, not all sorts of needless wander (which BTW is exactly why the shackles arrainged that way on most vehicles) is a big positive benefit. Wether at the local mall or on one of the countless unmaintained dirt roads out there. Add to that the drastically improved angle of attack, fewer broken main leafs, etc



Originally posted by Hooper


Just because a particular suspension is popular among manufacturers does not, in any way, mean it is the right suspension, or a good suspension.

By your argument, the only vehicle to have would be a Honda Accord or a Jeep.

Get a new argument, then come back when you have something to talk about.

You have done lots of RS? Why? What significant advantage does it offer, other than it smooths out the speedbumps at the mall?

Never mind. I don't want to rehash yesterdays discussion. Somehow I doubt there is anything on this subject that has not been beaten to a bloody pulp and left to die alongside the road. There is no convincing argument for either system. Shackle forward works great for me.

And, no, flat springs do not necessarily give the best flex. I agree that highly arched springs are not the best choice, but that does not mean that flat is. Depends on many factors.

I favor my 25 year old stock springs, but mine are not flat at rest. They still have some positive arch in them. They are very flexible, despite not being flat.

Originally posted by mike
Let me see, reasons to do it? mostly because 60mph across desert washboard roads is actually fun! BTW at least my agruement had more to it than (paraphrasing) Dont do it :rolleyes: now THAT was a real effective arguement. Especially for someone so quick to tell me to get a new arguement and come back. And as far as Im concerned being able to progress at speed across bumpy terrain and still have some control, not all sorts of needless wander (which BTW is exactly why the shackles arrainged that way on most vehicles) is a big positive benefit. Wether at the local mall or on one of the countless unmaintained dirt roads out there. Add to that the drastically improved angle of attack, fewer broken main leafs, etc





Ahh, I see. So, your argument is that RS is the best system to use for desert racing then?

RS has been around for a long time, but IH won the SCORE championship and Baja race using shackle forward suspension. Perhaps they had never heard of a RS system. No, that can't be it since they used it on IH vehicles, just not the desert racers. Now, I am not saying the IH engineers knew more than you, but since they designed my vehicle, and it beat everything else in its class out there, I think I will stick to their design on my rig.

Drastically improved angle of attack is nonsense. Unless you sink the leaf into the frame, you are only going to raise the front end of the leaf a minimum amount over a stock shackle.

Fewer broken main leafs, nonsense. I haven't broken one yet.

*Most* vehicles have reverse shackle design? I was pretty sure that a very large percentage of new 4x4's over the last few years came with radius arms and IFS. That certainly does not make it the best design out there. The masses do not always have it right.

I posted *don't do it* merely as a statement of opinion, because this subject has been beaten to death in this forum, and did not need to be rehashed again.

As I posted, different designs for different uses. Since I don't race across desert washboards at 60mph, RS is not going help me. I don't usually wheel on unmaintained dirt roads *at speed* in any case. We don't have many dirt roads up here to travel on at speed.

Needless wandering on bumpy terrain, not sure what you are referring to, since my rig does not wander, regardless of the terrain.

RS is not the be all, end all of suspension design. Works for some folks, but not for others. I think it creates more problems you have to address than it solves. Keep it simple.

Go into your garage and sit in front of your rig. Open a beer and start drinking it. After your first sip, look at the wheels/tires. Then look at your springs and shackles. Imagine yourself driving forward into and up/over a big ass rock.

Which makes better sense?

1) Should the shackle be forced to move forward towards the rock and against the forward motion of the vehicle.

or

2) Should the shackle be forced back as per the forward motion of the vehicle.

I've never had any issues with my shackles in the stock location, but it seems to me that (2) is a more natural process??? :confused:

Originally posted by Hooper
RS is not the be all, end all of suspension design. Works for some folks, but not for others. I think it creates more problems you have to address than it solves. Keep it simple.

Hoop,
I keep hearing you say "blah, blah, blah..." But I haven't heard you argue with any specifics. In three setences or less :flipoff2: , what problems would the RS create?

Mike,
Same thing for you. What benefits would I get out of going RS? And I don't drive in the desert either. :flipoff2:

Thanks for the help guys! :rasta:

Originally posted by JoshC
Go into your garage and sit in front of your rig. Open a beer and start drinking it. After your first sip, look at the wheels/tires. Then look at your springs and shackles. Imagine yourself driving forward into and up/over a big ass rock.

Which makes better sense?

1) Should the shackle be forced to move forward towards the rock and against the forward motion of the vehicle.

or

2) Should the shackle be forced back as per the forward motion of the vehicle.

I've never had any issues with my shackles in the stock location, but it seems to me that (2) is a more natural process??? :confused:

There is nothing *natural* about forcing a 4500# vehicle to climb over a big rock to begin with, regardless the direction the axle and tire move.

Up here, traction is a premium. We need maximum traction to get over the slippery obstacles we fight.

If you have a tire slipping, what do you usually do? Put some weight on the tire, i.e. have someone stand on a bumper. What is the weight doing? Increasing the normal force of the tire against the ground because increased normal force, or pressure, increases traction.

It then holds that when you put a tire against an obstacle, you want maximum pressure between tire and obstacle, to maximize traction.

Back to your example. As you said, when the tire pushes against an obstacle, the *natural* motion of the RS is to move back and away from the obstacle. A shackle forward design moves *UNnaturally* forward into the obstacle. RS gives you *less* pressure against the obstacle when you need it most, shackle forward increases pressure between obstacle and tire, and thereby increases traction as compared to a RS design.

Also, if the obstacle is a tall one, as the axle swings up and backwith a RS, it does not raise the corner of the vehicle *as much*. A shackle forward design pushes against the obstacle, and raises the bumper, shackle, tow hook, whatever, up over the obstacle, a big consideration for those of us running *smaller* tires where approach angle is an issue. Once the springs on a shackle forward design go flat or negative, (after the tire is climbing the obstacle when maximum weight is on the spring and after the bumper has been lifted) the axle then goes backward and up, lowering that corner, lowering the COG, and decreasing the total height the mass of the vehicle has to be lifted. A RS, on the other hand, once it goes negative, after the important part of the climbing is done with decreased traction, or mostly done, the end of the shackle swings forward and down, forcing the corner of the vehicle up and raising the COG, but not until the important work of climbing is done.

Folks argue that the RS does not decrease pressure between the rock and the tire substantially. Anyone have any empirical data on this? I know that up here, I need every bit of traction I can get.

Folks argue that the RS works great for everyone that has it. Not true, because many RS are done poorly with long fangs.

I will agree that a RS system gives a softer ride. I have no idea if it handles better at 60mph over desert washboards. I will also agree that it is *easier* on springs, i.e. less likely to bend a spring. I will also agree that it is a good system that works for many folks.

But, I do not agree that it is a *better* system for my rig, my wheeling, or my trails.

Originally posted by Hooper

Back to your example. As you said, when the tire pushes against an obstacle, the *natural* motion of the RS is to move back and away from the obstacle. A shackle forward design moves *UNnaturally* forward into the obstacle. RS gives you *less* pressure against the obstacle when you need it most, shackle forward increases pressure between obstacle and tire, and thereby increases traction as compared to a RS design.



Excellent! Thanks.

Originally posted by JoshC


Hoop,
I keep hearing you say "blah, blah, blah..." But I haven't heard you argue with any specifics. In three setences or less :flipoff2: , what problems would the RS create?

Mike,
Same thing for you. What benefits would I get out of going RS? And I don't drive in the desert either. :flipoff2:

Thanks for the help guys! :rasta:

See below. Took a while to type it.

No one is going to be *convinced* that either system is better, but my arguments against the RS are outlined below. Empirical data has shown me over and over that my SF rig outclimbs *comparable* RS rigs in many cases (I would say *most* but finding *comparable* rigs up here is tough so we seldom get to compare apples to apples)

Mark A, Tom M, others and I have been round and round on this merry go round, and we have had this discussion on virtually every forum out there. Basically, we all agree to disagree.

I'm not saying RS is bad, I'm just saying a person should not do a RS system, just because it is the popular thing to do. Figure out if it is a good system for you, or not, and make your own decision.

I gave my arguments below.

Okay, now that we're discussing this :D No SR is not for everyone. Just like running an automatic or manual tranny its really a matter of personal preference. The SR does give a softer ride and protects the springs quite a bit, we've all agreed on that. Cool :D My SR did raise my angle of attack. My spring hanger is not positioned so that the center of my spring eye is 2" below the front of my frame. I did not "slap on" a fang kit, which I feel are evil. I started with a bare frame in fact and built the whole front suspension around the SR. FWIW I haven't noticed a lack of traction climbing, then again I have a spooled rear and a detroit up front and swampers, tractions not a huge issue on a daily basis for me. I can agree to disagree :D I just tend to flinch when I hear one way or the other "do it" or "dont do it" without any reasoning. Now... if yer tired of talking about it tell the newbies to do a search ;)

Holy Cow!:eek: You guys are really taking this to heart!:p


Hey Hooper,

I agree that the Shackle forward works well for you..however, here where it is dry..and all 4 wheels have good traction...it is a lot easier to bend your mainleafs with the shackle forward...I have seen it a lot.

However, as it's been said before...certain suspension designs work good for some areas and not others...

As far as the ride over a bumpy road at 60mph..Who cares..I can't even do 60 on the freeway!:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Scout Dude


As far as the ride over a bumpy road at 60mph..Who cares..I can't even do 60 on the freeway!:flipoff2:

HAHAHAHAH its a 20 minute drive from the highway to any of the trails in florence AZ, on a back country non-maintained washboard road. I like to haul down it ;) Who cares if my engines winding up at 3500 to 4 grand ;)

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
hears the scoop

i'm throwing in a chev 44 and the spring are coming out as well so i thought since I was in ther why not do a SR insted of having then big gesus shackels the PO instaled

so all I was asking what do you recomend? should I bother i got the tools and the steel I can get no problem.

Is that link a bad disingn?

Go with stock shackles - fab some from 2x.250 flat, or 2x 3/8" flat, 3" center to center.

Keep the shackle forward, and the Chevy axle will bolt in with minimal fuss, and no cut/turn of the knuckles.

Go with an RS, and you'll have to rotate the pinion back up .. which means you'll probably also want to turn the knuckles, which just makes for a bigger project.

Originally posted by Hooper

RS has been around for a long time, but IH won the SCORE championship and Baja race using shackle forward suspension. Perhaps they had never heard of a RS system. No, that can't be it since they used it on IH vehicles, just not the desert racers. Now, I am not saying the IH engineers knew more than you, but since they designed my vehicle, and it beat everything else in its class out there, I think I will stick to their design on my rig.


I don't remember if they used RS on the first IH sponsored race truck, but I'm pretty sure MOST of the Scouts running baja went to RS pretty quickly - where do you think we fourwheelin' folks got the idea in the first place? :-)

Fewer broken main leafs, nonsense. I haven't broken one yet.


I've tried. Slammed that stupid shackle right into a rock and just couldn't go w/o bending the spring.

Similarly, I did severely bent (S) the front springs when I hit a "shelf" at speed..

Originally posted by Scout Dude
traction...it is a lot easier to bend your mainleafs with the shackle forward...I have seen it a lot.


I was staring at my rig last night pondering some triangular "spring guards" hanging down from a bumper to protect the forward shackle springs.. because I've tried to bend springs on rocks before, but I was also thinking of being lazy and avoiding the pinion and slip joint issues of the RS.. plus the extra firewall clearancing required. :D

I don't know if I like the spring-guard idea any more or less then just going RS..

As far as the ride over a bumpy road at 60mph..Who cares..I can't even do 60 on the freeway!:flipoff2:

Maybe Tigger doesn't like going fast on the highway any more because of the forward shackle? I need an RS to make it handle again!

Couldn't have anything to do with the negative caster, bias unbalanced Swampers, could it?

BTW, I can do better than 60 in 3rd gear with a 345.. :flipoff2: ..just gets a little hard to keep a handle on.

Meanwhile my RS rig doesn't mind 60mph across open fields.. feels pretty good.. but it doesn't do much more than 60 on the pavement, unless it's on the trailer.

Originally posted by Scout Dude
Holy Cow!:eek: You guys are really taking this to heart!:p


Hey Hooper,

I agree that the Shackle forward works well for you..however, here where it is dry..and all 4 wheels have good traction...it is a lot easier to bend your mainleafs with the shackle forward...I have seen it a lot.

However, as it's been said before...certain suspension designs work good for some areas and not others...

As far as the ride over a bumpy road at 60mph..Who cares..I can't even do 60 on the freeway!:flipoff2:

All right, I am envious. I wish I were a trailer queen with *too low* gears for freeway driving.... ;)

Originally posted by mike
Okay, now that we're discussing this :D No SR is not for everyone. Just like running an automatic or manual tranny its really a matter of personal preference. The SR does give a softer ride and protects the springs quite a bit, we've all agreed on that. Cool :D My SR did raise my angle of attack. My spring hanger is not positioned so that the center of my spring eye is 2" below the front of my frame. I did not "slap on" a fang kit, which I feel are evil. I started with a bare frame in fact and built the whole front suspension around the SR. FWIW I haven't noticed a lack of traction climbing, then again I have a spooled rear and a detroit up front and swampers, tractions not a huge issue on a daily basis for me. I can agree to disagree :D I just tend to flinch when I hear one way or the other "do it" or "dont do it" without any reasoning. Now... if yer tired of talking about it tell the newbies to do a search ;)

Same way I flinch when folks say *Do a RS*. But, since the RS topic had been on here before, I figured folks were tired of hearing my tirade, so I just opened the can and let someone else (you) take the bait out... ;)

SR will not kill your traction, and I will even concede that the amount it decreases your traction *may* be minimal, but, I need every bit of traction I can get, so that last little bit often seems just enough to get me there. And the RS just seems like a lot of work for minimal advantage in my area.

So, as you said, to each their own, now that the arguments have been set down and the dust has cleared, folks can see what works for them in their area.

Originally posted by mike


HAHAHAHAH its a 20 minute drive from the highway to any of the trails in florence AZ, on a back country non-maintained washboard road. I like to haul down it ;) Who cares if my engines winding up at 3500 to 4 grand ;)

I was in Yuma for 2 years. Flat, straight roads, with no visual obstructions. Great for winding her up and letting her fly down the gravel.

But, this is about as far as you can see on most of the roads up here. Not much room to wind her up.

http://www.nwbinders.net/Trails/WalkerValley/July2002/RickAndKyleInForestMist.JPG

*Fast* for us is usually 5mph.

Originally posted by tsm1mt


I don't remember if they used RS on the first IH sponsored race truck, but I'm pretty sure MOST of the Scouts running baja went to RS pretty quickly - where do you think we fourwheelin' folks got the idea in the first place? :-)



I've tried. Slammed that stupid shackle right into a rock and just couldn't go w/o bending the spring.

Similarly, I did severely bent (S) the front springs when I hit a "shelf" at speed..

Off the shelf SSII suspension on the one that won the Baja and SCORE championship.

Don't have any clears pictures that show what Halworth or Balsh were running.

SF definitely is harder on springs. But, RS is harder on front drivelines...

Which reminds me. No one has talked about the difficulties of fabbing a front driveline that handles the *travel* of a RS shackle. Nor have they mentioned the added stress the much longer driveline has to bear....

seen quite a few front drivelines pulled apart because they were not long enough on the front RS.

Also, not sure on this, but I think RS on a SOA gives more front axle wrap

Originally posted by Hooper


All right, I am envious. I wish I were a trailer queen with *too low* gears for freeway driving.... ;)


Who said anything about being a trailor queen? I drive mine everywhere..even to work and back until this past weekend- Opps!

Originally posted by Hooper


Which reminds me. No one has talked about the difficulties of fabbing a front driveline that handles the *travel* of a RS shackle. Nor have they mentioned the added stress the much longer driveline has to bear....


No fabbing involved. Just your gold card. :D

Cubic dollars will fix the driveshaft problem.

Maybe most folks just don't get as much articulation as some of us. :P

No problems keeping my front shaft together, thus far (knock on wood).. it's the too-long-compressed that keeps hurting me. ;)

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Go with stock shackles - fab some from 2x.250 flat, or 2x 3/8" flat, 3" center to center.

Keep the shackle forward, and the Chevy axle will bolt in with minimal fuss, and no cut/turn of the knuckles.

Go with an RS, and you'll have to rotate the pinion back up .. which means you'll probably also want to turn the knuckles, which just makes for a bigger project.

and you will have a HORIBLE pinion angle.... doable, and it has been done, but you are VERY near max u-joint angle... Take the time, turn the pinion, and set your caster.

8º shims welded to the GM Perches seem just about right to point the pinion at the t-case, with stock suspention set-up, and stock springs. IIRC you can even run the stock drive shaft.... or very close to it.

yeah shafts arent a problem anymore. Havent been in a while. They've even gotten cheaper :D we even have a purveyor of said long travel shafts as a regular on this BB ;)

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite


and you will have a HORIBLE pinion angle.... doable, and it has been done, but you are VERY near max u-joint angle... Take the time, turn the pinion, and set your caster.

8º shims welded to the GM Perches seem just about right to point the pinion at the t-case, with stock suspention set-up, and stock springs. IIRC you can even run the stock drive shaft.... or very close to it.

Actually, pinion angle was *CORRECT* with the stock springs, Chevy axle, bolt-in.

It only got sh*tty when I did the RS - very bad.

Yes, you're near the limit on a typical U-joint, but WITHIN that limit.

I never had a single problem with the front driveshaft or U-joints (never had to change 'em, either) with the stock springs, front shackle, and Chevy '44 bolted in.

And I ran it at full-droop and full-throttle, and shock loaded it when I landed (at WFO) - still no problems.

The RS stopped me from bending front springs.. but I traded broken springs for broken transfer cases...

Originally posted by tsm1mt


...Go with an RS, and you'll have to rotate the pinion back up .. which means you'll probably also want to turn the knuckles, which just makes for a bigger project.
Took me all of an hour and a half to do the cut and turn. About an hour on the first side (first time so I didn't really know what I was "looking" for) and about 20 minutes or so to do the second side (once I knew what I was looking for and had an idea of how deep I needed to grind).

I concure with TORC, cut-n-turn is easy, takes longer the first time, but MUCH shorter the second time.

Worth the effort. Better with a turning "jig", but works just fine with a hammer and a magnetic protractor.


no vodo magic here.... just like no vodo with a SO....





or RS for that matter.... wait, there is Vodo there :D





:flipoff2:

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
I concure with TORC, cut-n-turn is easy, takes longer the first time, but MUCH shorter the second time.

Worth the effort. Better with a turning "jig", but works just fine with a hammer and a magnetic protractor.

:flipoff2:

Sure, it's all a piece of cake with the right knowledge, the right tools, and the right amount of time and money.

It's a snap.

But I spent 8 hours getting just ONE leaf spring and shackle bushing swapped out the first time I even tried.. 24 hours total to get my "bolt on" Skyjacker lift installed.

Sure, today I could probably pull that off in 2 hours.. with an air-wrench for the bolts, Sawzall and 4" grinder for the stubborn bolts, a bigger BFH, bigger jack and stands, Sawzall and air-chisel for the bushings, etc.

I wasn't sure Chief was equipped with the grinder, BFH, and welder (and weldor skills) to do a cut n' turn safely.. in which ase, forward shackle and a Chevy axle bolts in with minimal fuss, and it WORKS WELL.

Originally posted by tsm1mt


I don't remember if they used RS on the first IH sponsored race truck, but I'm pretty sure MOST of the Scouts running baja went to RS pretty quickly - where do you think we fourwheelin' folks got the idea in the first place? :-)



The 1951 and up Jeep M38A-1 (looks like a CJ-5) came from the factory with a RS. The 1955-56 CJ-5 and CJ-6 also came with a RS.

Originally posted by Scout Dude



Who said anything about being a trailor queen? I drive mine everywhere..even to work and back until this past weekend- Opps!

I missed something. What happened this past weekend?

Originally posted by tsm1mt


No fabbing involved. Just your gold card. :D

Cubic dollars will fix the driveshaft problem.

Maybe most folks just don't get as much articulation as some of us. :P

No problems keeping my front shaft together, thus far (knock on wood).. it's the too-long-compressed that keeps hurting me. ;)

Only guy I know who keeps breaking his ears cuz his drive shaft is too long....

Originally posted by Hooper


Only guy I know who keeps breaking his ears cuz his drive shaft is too long....

What can I say - my Scout's too well endowed. :flipoff2:

My shaft is too long...

I'm HOPING the latest operation fixed that.. testing that theory out on the 1st..

Originally posted by tsm1mt



I wasn't sure Chief was equipped with the grinder, BFH, and welder (and weldor skills) to do a cut n' turn safely.. in which ase,


I'm not sure, either, but I think Chief equipped you with his spelling skills. :flipoff2:

well I got the grinder and welder and good weldeing skills, and BFH and it sounds like you can do a cut and turn with the axel on the vehickle?

I would pull it off the truck. Much easier to rotate it around a get to it. Also much easier to swing the BFH without the rest of the vechicle getting in the way.

Originally posted by Chief Yelling Alot
well I got the grinder and welder and good weldeing skills, and BFH and it sounds like you can do a cut and turn with the axel on the vehickle?

If you are using a Scout Axle, I suppose you could do the grinding with the axle in the rig, but it sure would be a bear. You have to unbolt the axle from just about everything to move it on top of the springs anyway, might as well put the axle on a bench while grinding where you can get better leverage.

OTOH, you need the axle under the springs, and weight on the springs before you set your final yoke angle, so I found it easier to set the axle, set my shims, bolt it together, and whack it with the hammer. Keeps the axle from running away from the hammer, also.

I really cannot see any advantage to grinding with the axle in the rig though.