ok guys im sorry to post this but i need help im going to make a 3 link is it good or bad on the front and what side do i put the top link on it a ford front end will u said u wood help me sow here it is lol

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj200/timmycowan/05-08-08_2353-1.jpg

here like this 1

well, you could go an easier route and do what might be called a 1link or 2 link. depending on how you define that.
. with coil springs, you should copy the suspension design that world class proven, and over 60 years old. copy a unimog.
. now, we can't just invent the driveshaft 'torque tube' of a unimog, but basically each axle hangs on 1 pivot point which pivots around where the first u-joint is at the t-case. from that point, you go down in a 'Y' configuration, where the tops of the Y are connected at each end of the axle near the wheel, and the bottom of the Y is where it connects to the frame on a crossmember.
. all you need after this is a trackbar(panhard bar) to keep the axle in line under the vehicle.
. this is a super flexy setup that hasn't changed on unimogs in decades and has been proven on some of the gnarliest terrain on the planet.
. the only things it's really not good at is jumping. as long as you keep the rubber on the road there's no problem.
. many of us here have copied this design or come up with it on our own and it works really well.
. I know many on here don't like my design of not having the axle attached to the spring packs, I do that so the axle can hang all it wants without the binding you'd typically get when you try to let one side hang a lot on a leaf spring pack.
. however, with coil springs you can easily leave the spring and axle attached since there's no spring eye bushings or shackles to be bound up or bent in odd directions.
here's a couple of pics of my crossmember and you can see the massive rod end joint that the axle hangs on. It uses a 1 1/4" bolt so I don't think I'll ever break it. I even routed my brake lines right by this pivot point so that even if I got 3 feet of travel for each wheel, the brake lines barely flex near the pivot point and I don't need 3' long brake lines hanging out in danger by each wheel.
you can check http://photobucket.com/jamesdeansjeep to see all pics I've taken recently.

http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp262/jamesdoucet/SUNP0002.jpg


now this is before I rebuilt everything, but the principle is the same, the brake lines barely flex:
http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp262/jamesdoucet/front_brakline.jpg

ok guys im sorry to post this but i need help im going to make a 3 link is it good or bad on the front and what side do i put the top link on it a ford front end will u said u wood help me sow here it is lol

You don't have even have basic spelling and grammar skills :shaking:

timmay! stop pm'ing me. You may not have our love child :shaking:

the thing you got pictured is a radius arm! like used on a ford. it will work well just be sure every thing clears the panhard and frame. but ya thats the way to build one like that.

Since in america we use left side driver that puts the steering box on that side. The panhard traditionally is inline with the drag link and they are they same size so they can travel in the same arc when flexing. So with a zuk which usually has a passenger's side drop axle be it zuk or toy it is easier to do a three link with the upper on the side to avoid both the panhard arc from the frame rail and the exhaust coming out on that side too. Now if one angles the upper and goes to the top of the pumpkin the driveshaft is close. So in essence the pic of the one above is easier to achieve but you don't have a lot of room to do it with because the pumpkin is so close to the knuckle. The more separation you have between the upper and lower the more it can resist twist. Since its less of a problem in the front its not priority one. You can either attach the upper to the link or the upper frame. You will be able to adjust it easier with two different attachment points and the bracket on the frame rail will see less stress so to each his own

The panhard you want the same length as much as possible as the draglink and as level as possible. You will probably need to connect it on a tower style bracket in front of the axle high enough to clear the pumpkin and the upper link or the upper and panhard bracket connect at the same point on a 90 degree. This will have to be beefy as it is pulling from both directions. I would recommend this or something close to it.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/offest-panhard-bracket-p-240.html

If you have a ram then you go back to plan "B" because it is in the way.

Now if your driver's side drop for what ever reason its just about where you put it on top of the tube but depending on your measurements your back to one of these options if you like simple. The panhard's job is centering of the axle to frame through cycle of motion. You can do the upper on the driver's side but you will need to dodge both the panhard and exhaust but the pro will be its easier to dodge the driveshaft and you have more room on the axle but its my opinion that the eshaust, panhard, ram, steering box and draglink are more of a PITA to deal with.
Any questions?

will dont be a jurk then on all my post u are a jurk to me

sow moveaside i need to put it on the same side as the pig it a ford frame it on the driver side

sow moveaside i need to put it on the same side as the pig it a ford frame it on the driver sidePassenger side basically. The angle they are is important although less important in the front it still doesn't mean steep angles will perform well. The more parallel they are with the frame the better. This is one of the factors that will keep the links from pulling one tire closer to the frame and pushes the other away from you. Its called rear steer in the back but can happen in the front as well for similar reasons. Since your starting on your first setup just stick to the basics and follow these guidelines.
Keep the links as flat as possible when viewed from the side using bracketry and length
Gusset and protect the bracketry from coming off or failing
Clean the rust off the metal before you weld...at all...even tacking:flipoff2:
At ride height with the weight of the vehicle on it make sure the heims/bushings/whatever start at zero degrees rotation if at all possible inside the bracket they sit in. This will help keep them from maxing out and ripping bracket off the frame causing link failure.

yeah, I 3 linked my zuk front and rear and it is awesome!!! I run toy axles with 35" tire with a 92" wheelbase. I can ramp a 1000 on a 30 degree RTI no problem. Doesnt have very good road manners though but is built for trail only.

ok im going to do a 4 link on the front my bottom link is 3 ft long the top can be only 2 ft long will that work and yes i have a panard bar on it lol thanks

Why run a panhard bar with a 4 link?

Why run a panhard bar with a 4 link?Lack of room for triangualtion I would guess? Hell he started this thread building a three maybe he forgot already:confused:

no the 3 link not work 4 me im going to 4 link it i hope lol

(shhhh, don't tell anyone, but the unimog style is much easier....... (no strange triangulation geometry to worry about))

Double wishbone: