I figure WTF. I'll go...
Auto vs Manual?
I'm not talking big HP mud drag rig, but low buck, run whatcha brung bogger. No big $$$ powerglides, high stall set ups, just cheap, available drivetrains.
So if you were putting a rig together, say a fullsize on 36" to 38" rubber, what would you run?

Just depends on what yer' used to. Lots of guys love the juice trannys cuz you dont have to get out of the throttle to shift. My Big B' has 4 spd & I go pretty much wherever I want on 42's & 4.56 w/429 on locked up tons.

For a stock class or play truck, you can get away with a manual in deep mud. You'll get killed on any kind of mud "drag" event though unless the track is REAL short.

I agree with the manual, but I really like the auto in my F-350 because the 460 just has the bottomend to spin them all day long.


I also think that certian people shouldnt have a stick because of the damage that they do to their rigs when they get stuck. I have seen more drive shafts and axles go due to the "reverse dump clutch, grind first dump clutch, reverse dump clutch and so on" with out ever lifting the skinny pedal. Its not the trucks fault I know but a standard is right for some people and not others.


But on the flipside, Having a manual is good if you kill your starter because you can drag it in gear to roll start it. Any thing is better than being towed out of the woods.

My thoughts on it are that you want all the wheel speed you can get & keep that momentum...I think no matter how fast you can push in that clutch & shift your loosing that much wheelspeed..Its like shifting into nutral...

This is just my opinion...

Manual, it will still work when the muddy water gets in it, the auto won't.

deff a manual for the gearing

I have owned 2 automatics in the last 12 years, neither one was registered, or even driven by me... I've always driven stick, learned to drive on a manual,was driving for 5 years before I touched an automatic. For a highway vehicle, I refuse to have it any other way.
For my wheeling pig, I think I may be switching over to an auto, I have no issues shifting it in the pit(don't even bother with the clutch) BUT, my 2 big issues are A) I haven't found a clutch that will handle a dump at more than 1500 rpm without spending a fortune, and B) I somehow always manage to end up packing a pressure plate full of mud at least once a season... I have clutch R&R down to 4 hours in the field with no jacks and hand tools now though....

since my auto got hot and burnt my first truck to the ground i will only drive sticks

for just cheap run what ya brung stock class definitly an auto.

Auto always works best in the mud that I've seen. Manuals have there place but deep mud/water will just burn up the clutch and the loss of momentum hurts when shifting. Of course you need the proper cooling for an auto not to have there own problems.

Autos are great if you can keep them water tight and run the vent to the top of the cab as high as you can get it. The stick has no vent but the clutch plates can get packed in thick bog and then the clutch will slip unill it burns out all the goo.

:D

my bellhousing is fully sealed to keep the mud and sticks out

I prefer an auto, if you start to loose wheel speed you can down shift, unless you are already in first gear:D

We mostley run all 4speeds down hear usauly just hit in the gear you know your truck can handel.

My thoughts on it are that you want all the wheel speed you can get & keep that momentum...I think no matter how fast you can push in that clutch & shift your loosing that much wheelspeed..Its like shifting into nutral...

This is just my opinion...

Yeah, there's no shifting with a stick. You pick a gear & live with it. I ran a manual for years & as long as the track was VERY deep and/or really short, it was "okay". I'm much happier with an auto though.

TEX

Yeah, there's no shifting with a stick. You pick a gear & live with it. I ran a manual for years & as long as the track was VERY deep and/or really short, it was "okay". I'm much happier with an auto though.

TEX

I see your point. I'm just not sure if for fun bogs, where who wins doesn't really matter, or isn't even counted, is the mechanical complexity (cooling, water, etc) and power loss of the torque converter, worth it?
I've gotten pretty good at picking gears for a particular run, and can bang the 3-2 shift without losing all momentum. Not to mention, with a stock 360, I don't have much power to spare.

i'm on the auto side here. been into to many situation when the stick just got me nowhere...

Personal preference is for a manual, for many solid reasons. However, if you are into racing than an auto is the way to go.

You don't see hardly any manuals at all in actual mud racing. Bogging you see the most, but a LOT of the actual racers are running a 'glide. That's what I run.

I have run manual and then auto in my blazer. I would not go back to manual. As soon as you touch the clutch your wheels stop in deep mud.

auto w/ maunal valve body:flipoff2: but auto for sure, no matter how fast you shift you cant keep the tires spinning, and if you had to go back a gear after you shifted youd be done

Another vote for the auto. 4 Low in 1st gear for the deep bogs. There is always more if you need it.

you should make this into a pole= manual or auto.

i vote auto.

4 low and third gear. Dump the clutch...

...thats how I roll...

Edit: and I don't shift either...

Well an Auto would be nice with a v8, but I got a 22re and would go nowhere fast with an auto, So I'm goin with manual.

i had a 6 speed manual in my 99 f250 7.3 powerstroke and i wouldnt have had it any other way i put 8 inches of lift on it and 38's and if you know how to use the clutch right you can do alot with them but it is also alot diferent with desiel then it is with gas my truck with 38's and 3.73 gears i could put it in first and let the cutch out and the truck would carry itself with out hitting the skinny pedal and if it bogged down in the mud just side step the clutch a bit get the turbo spooled up and dump it i never broke anything i should have a few times but that truck help together everytime

any body else runnin a trans brake in theyre auto?

Manual, it will still work when the muddy water gets in it, the auto won't.My thoughts exactly unless you compete

Or if you want to run an auto you can seal it up really good, the florida boys probably have all the tricks to get that done. double lip seals, vent tube ran up into the top of the cab and making sure the dipstick tube is sealed up good should do it

Racin = autos the fastest and takes money to make it reliable, kinda.

Boggin = manuals are the toughest and CHEAPEST to operate. They run on milkshake just fine too.:D

4 low and third gear. Dump the clutch...

...thats how I roll...

Edit: and I don't shift either...

Yup. When I used to mud my 94 I used to just dump the clutch in 1rst Hi. Just hope you run out of room before you run out of RPM's.

Autos are fastest. There's no denying that. But there are some exceptions. If you have a small rig like a Toyota you really need the manual tranny. A 22RE doesn't have much to give. You really can't afford to be giving up power to the automatic. Of course the Aisin automatics were pretty lackluster in any form, be it a Toyota or a Jeep.

Auto all the way , a good vent and your set.
manual clutch dosent work so good under water

Cool_racer I run a transbrake in my powerglide. I don't use it when using nitrous, but in some pits I use it. Sometimes it will actually slow you down if you just blow the tires off the line.

its nice to have a stick when your brakes go out so you can engine brake. saved my life a few times...and the guy behind me on the hill climb :D

Cool_racer I run a transbrake in my powerglide. I don't use it when using nitrous, but in some pits I use it. Sometimes it will actually slow you down if you just blow the tires off the line.

if the start is muddy from pulling people out i wont go off it, but if its dry it sure dose make for a good launch. what kind of mud are you running? hill and hole or flat pit?

Another vote for the auto. 4 Low in 1st gear for the deep bogs. There is always more if you need it.

and how often has your truck been out????????????????????????????????????????

alright, for just regular wheeling in the mud, not racing. the manual is the cheapest way to go. get an older 70s 3/4 ton with 4.10s a manual and a v-8 throw a 4" lift on it hack the fenders run a stick with granny, some 42s and you'll be able to run 2nd gear low range with the stock gears no problem. do that with an auto and your gonna have a dog and the autos gonna burn up.

Coolracer I just run flat pits around here, but I'd love to run the hill and hole pits. There's talk of them having one at the Kansas Badlands location this season, but not for sure yet. I think that would be a blast. The rougher the better!

As far as the transbrake goes unless it's a really good pretty dry starting line then I don't use it. Sometimes it's really fun to launch it on a sticky clay line though and hook really hard. This video is one of those starting lines, but I didn't use the transbrake that time-too bad I was only running the 150 horse jets im my nitrous back then-that was about 5 years ago.

http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/deranged7/?action=view&current=PSYCH058.flv

Cory

The rougher the better!


Always said you weren't quite right :flipoff2:

You've always been consistent about that, Tex! :laughing::flipoff2:

I should probably join you in that regard. My suspension's set up for pre-running & the rougher the pit, the better I do. My truck just likes it a lot more than me :laughing:

My thoughts on it are that you want all the wheel speed you can get & keep that momentum...I think no matter how fast you can push in that clutch & shift your loosing that much wheelspeed..Its like shifting into nutral...

This is just my opinion...Saved me some typing!

Manual, it will still work when the muddy water gets in it, the auto won't.I was going to ask if you had ever seen a clutch not work because so much shit was in it toooooo?

my bellhousing is fully sealed to keep the mud and sticks outKinda goes with my above statement.

Yeah, there's no shifting with a stick. You pick a gear & live with it. I ran a manual for years & as long as the track was VERY deep and/or really short, it was "okay". I'm much happier with an auto though.

TEX

I think we have made a decision then! AUTOMATIC:shaking:

Depends on the weight and power and gears...

with 3800 lbs, 400 HP and 4.88's I find 2nd High range (manal) works best. 3500 RPM Launch, never shift and hammer down as much as you can. I find I have to lift must times because of rutts, but if you keep the RPM's up in the power range your good to go.

Saved me some typing!

I was going to ask if you had ever seen a clutch not work because so much shit was in it toooooo?

Kinda goes with my above statement.



I think we have made a decision then! AUTOMATIC:shaking:

Yes, NO SHIFTING. Mud dries and if it's not sealed enough. your clutch will not dis-engauge..

To much water makes the throw out bearing go out. Exec..

Best is not to shift, keep the RPM up so if mud gets in, it gets flung off the clutch and onto the housing. and don't get stuck in it...:D

for low buck, find a 70s-80s 3/4ton 4speed big block truck, any of the big 3 will do, 4" suspention lift, 3" body for clearance on starters, bellhousing bolts, etc that you will need to access regularly. weld the rear end and throw on your tires of choice, alloy shafts if 38" or bigger and you like to saw the wheels. Autos will need work or they will die. my .02 from watching a ton of shit die at races and our fun runs and getting to fix it later. dont forget to buy and keep with you a complete set of u-joints, a starter and an alternator at a bare minimum. seen alot of plug wires get burned up too and tons of belts and air cleaners. dont use the pink insulation FYI, it burns, rockwool doesnt.