what is the best point on the frame to mount the radius arms. i am going to run the stock arms with a 12 inch extinction welded on and heims joint 's. its going to be on a Toyota Tacoma but the Toyota guy's don't know anything about what going on when it comes to the radius arms. is there a specific geometry to go by any help will be appreciated thanks. :cool:

If your radius arms will be 12"s longer than stock, and you have a desired front axle location (I don't know, say centered in the wheel wells) then you are pretty well limitted to mounting the brackets right where they end up...

What was the question again?

ok cool i just wanted to make sure i thought that is how i should do it thanks. do you know how well they will flex when extended.

what is the best point on the frame to mount the radius arms. i am going to run the stock arms with a 12 inch extinction welded on and heims joint 's. its going to be on a Toyota Tacoma but the Toyota guy's don't know anything about what going on when it comes to the radius arms. is there a specific geometry to go by any help will be appreciated thanks. :cool:



Don't you think you should have got the front axle where you wanted, frame mounts where you wanted and then extend your radius arms???
It seems pretty backwards to me to have it basically figured out and then ask the question anyway :shaking:

what is wrong with making sure of what you are doing or by chance someone else has a better way to do it open up your mind you will learn.:idea:

also seance you seem to know so much where do you recommend putting the mounting brackets to extend the radius arms to. stop trying to be a ass and help someone. there is always a better way to do something you just have to figure it out or find the person to tell you how and it is less costly if someone all ready knows how to do it and you just ask.

Can't offer much except where the brackets end up, Add a crossmember between the mounts to tie it into the frame on the other side, This will distribute load on both frame rails as not to fold them both inward.

http://i379.photobucket.com/albums/oo233/IDIeselman1/cm.jpg?t=1231421012

what is the best point on the frame to mount the radius arms. i am going to run the stock arms with a 12 inch extinction welded on and heims joint 's. its going to be on a Toyota Tacoma but the Toyota guy's don't know anything about what going on when it comes to the radius arms. is there a specific geometry to go by any help will be appreciated thanks. :cool:
The way I did it on my B 2 with exstended arms was to bolt the rad. arms to the dif. and center the tire in the wheel well using 2 floor jacks and stands. make sure the axle is 90 deg.to the frame and square,then jack up the rear end of the exstended arms untill they are at the static ride hight you want then mark the frame, clamp the brackets to frame and drill your mounting holes or weld them on whatever way you are attaching them. Double check your axle for square and make sure the tire is centerd the way you want it then finish bolting or welding on the brackets.Since you already have the rad arms made geometry is out the window but a good referance is to mount them at or close to the t-case front edge.one thing to remember is you now should have a lot more articulation so check the front drive shaft to make sure it wont pull apart at full droop or bind at full compression and you may need longer shocks with more travel. Also you should make a cross member to support the brackets and frame. I rec. using some high missalignment spacers on the hiems to get all the articulation you can.mine worked great. Don,t let the peckerheads with the wise ass replys get to you!I call those guys computer wheelers as they give fucked up replys because they don,t know shit.half of the replys you get are just opinions anyway. Hope I helped and everything works out. Let me knowif it comes out OK.

The way I did it on my B 2 with exstended arms was to bolt the rad. arms to the dif. and center the tire in the wheel well using 2 floor jacks and stands. make sure the axle is 90 deg.to the frame and square,then jack up the rear end of the exstended arms untill they are at the static ride hight you want then mark the frame, clamp the brackets to frame and drill your mounting holes or weld them on whatever way you are attaching them. Double check your axle for square and make sure the tire is centerd the way you want it then finish bolting or welding on the brackets.Since you already have the rad arms made geometry is out the window but a good referance is to mount them at or close to the t-case front edge.one thing to remember is you now should have a lot more articulation so check the front drive shaft to make sure it wont pull apart at full droop or bind at full compression and you may need longer shocks with more travel. Also you should make a cross member to support the brackets and frame. I rec. using some high missalignment spacers on the hiems to get all the articulation you can.mine worked great. Don,t let the peckerheads with the wise ass replys get to you!I call those guys computer wheelers as they give fucked up replys because they don,t know shit.half of the replys you get are just opinions anyway. Hope I helped and everything works out. Let me knowif it comes out OK.

sweet thanks and it did help. i have a new question and it is what makes a radius arm setup unload when on a incline when you give it gas. i read on a few threads that when climbing a incline when you get on it a little and the font of the truck will unload about 6 inches or so what makes it do that and why dose a 3 link not do that.

sweet thanks and it did help. i have a new question and it is what makes a radius arm setup unload when on a incline when you give it gas. i read on a few threads that when climbing a incline when you get on it a little and the font of the truck will unload about 6 inches or so what makes it do that and why dose a 3 link not do that.
It has to do with front end geometry,the 3 link has anti dive and anti rise built into it.google up front end geomentry,Its more than I could explaine well enough, it has a lot of GOOD info.peace from humboldt! on a different note how is the wheelin in KY?Me and some freinds are planning a off road road trip.Id like to hear more about your ride,Im building a 92 4 runner d70Fd60R sm465 with a 203/205 and a paxton blown 96 4.3 vortec chevy V6 with a custom manifold to convert it to tuned port injection instead of central port ,lots of work I,ll have pics. soon now that I know hou to post em.

i'm gunna assume you've got an old ford 78-79 or something. since you didn't say. then i'm gunna assume you got the extensions that slide on then you weld around the junction. they bend, easily. the factory arms are borderline at the stock length and NOT strong enough at the extended length.

if you want help then any detail at all about what you are doing might make a difference.

o yea and don't forget caster angle. it's important.

It has to do with front end geometry,the 3 link has anti dive and anti rise built into it.google up front end geomentry,Its more than I could explaine well enough, it has a lot of GOOD info.peace from humboldt! on a different note how is the wheelin in KY?Me and some freinds are planning a off road road trip.Id like to hear more about your ride,Im building a 92 4 runner d70Fd60R sm465 with a 203/205 and a paxton blown 96 4.3 vortec chevy V6 with a custom manifold to convert it to tuned port injection instead of central port ,lots of work I,ll have pics. soon now that I know hou to post em. jamOoO has a good point caster is important it is part of the geometry you asked about. If you are using a axle that uses the C bushings to bolt the rad arms to the axle Energy suspention makes a set of poly bushings that change caster. I rec. about 5 to 7 degrees if you can get it,basicly the more caster you have the better the directional stability will be. I,ve gotten away with as little as 2 deg. but it was a rig that was mostly off road, if you use the truck as a daily driver I rec. more than 2 degrees. if you are using a diferent F.E. then after everything is done and driving, take it to a GOOD alignment shop they can use a press to put a SMALL bend in the rad arms to correct caster.This is how the caster was adj. on older fords and is perfectly fine if you don,t need a lot of correction,you may want to gusset the arms at the point the bend is made just to be safe