How about some tech??? What are ya' runnin?? Tires/Axles/TC/Trans/suspension/steering..........What are ya' breakin??

My Junk; 79' Big B w/87' KPD60 4.56 Detroit 35 spline hub to hub.Cage weld on arms, no C-bushings/Rancho 4" coils/D60 rear 35 spline 4.56 Detroit shackle flip traction bars. 42" TSL.Sawzall fender mods, NP435/205.High Angle (Jesse) 1350 rear CV shaft.

Tires/Axles/TC/Trans/suspension/steering..........What are ya' breakin??

eh... i'll play.

my mud truck....
18.4-30 R2's/5 Tons/Stock/4L80e/4 Link/hydraulic ........ not finished, so i havent broken anything. :D

my jeep...
39.5 boggers/1 tons/none/SM465/stock YJ/XJ combo/hydro-assist .... haven't broken anything except 14 bolt u-joint straps

my old mud truck was...

14.9-24 R1's/2.5 tons/3500rpm/th400/4 link/hydraulic ..... it didn't break anything either.

Imagine that, the FL mud guy & the PNW mud guy hangin' it out for the crowd. Spent some time on Chucks trucks forum, you guys are wackier, more redneck than us!! Those trucks w/72" tractor tires & 1500 HP are awe inspiring!!! One of those trucks might make it thru our "TankTrap". We stuck a Cat 235 Excav all the way to cab in trap for Hangover 09'. Show us some pics please!?:smokin:

49 inch irocs, 2.5 ton rockwells, detroit front, welded rear. Leaf springs front and rear with anti-wrap bar. TH 350, NP205, 1410 u joints:D

M1...& all other prospective posters to this thread: Pics Please?!:smokin:

Heres a question I'm been pondering. When doing a 4-link (yes I have searched and read alot and still reading the rest) what version of 4 link are you using? I see alot of rigs running lower links parallel and to the frame while the uppers are triangulating from the axle center to the frame. I see this mostly on the supper tall rigs running ag tires though. Having just got back from Kuwait I'm researching all I can before begining to sling my rocks under my 79 f150.

im runnin a 79 f-150 with 44" gumbo mudders on 15x15 eaton rims. dana 44 front, 9" welded rear, 3:50 gears, 351m, 4spd., 205 t-case, l&l traction bars, 9" skyjacker suspencion lift and 3" body lift. so far i've broke 2 inner axle shafts, 1 stub shaft, broke the long side axle tube, snaped the front output on the 205, 2 rear 3rd members and i keep breaking the secter shafts off the steering boxes.
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr156/oregonmudder/gotmud/haytruck016.jpg
http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/rr156/oregonmudder/gotmud/gotmud4x41003.jpg

TH350/Np205, Rockwells (welded rear, Detriot Front), Leafs, Full Hydro, 49" V-treads.....................Oh yea, and I break TH350/NP205 Adapter plates for some reason:shaking:

83King...I campaigned the 1/2 ton F-trucks for 3 decades & am quite familiar with the shortcomings. Finally went to tons on the Big Green Hunka'Junk. Much happier:DLess Drama:eek:. Get rid of that half ton stuff or downgrade tires, yer' gear ratio's high as well. Being locked up@lower gear ratio w/ heavier axles increases the fun factor by a bazillion!!! Keep floggin yer' FOMOCO brother!:laughing:
Rebel.....Get a TH400!!!

...i keep breaking the secter shafts off the steering boxes.

Sounds like you need to run some type of Hydraulic assist on your steering. The hydraulic cylinder will take some load off your steering gear, and most likely prevent the failures you're seeing. Either that or it's time for full-hydraulic steering on that rig...

Rebel.....Get a TH400!!!
That was my plan, but finding a th400 4wd was almost impossible at the time in my area. So i got a turbo 350 built to hold some HP. Been running strong for almost 2yrs................:smokin:

got any ideas on how to keep from snaping the front output shaft again? i was lucky and had a extra 205 so i just changed the whole case

got any ideas on how to keep from snaping the front output shaft again? i was lucky and had a extra 205 so i just changed the whole case

I'd have to see your front driveshaft angle and know what the fracture looked like. I'm thinking it was caused by a bind, but that's just a guess without knowing more about your set-up.

got any ideas on how to keep from snaping the front output shaft again? i was lucky and had a extra 205 so i just changed the whole case

Since you already have a 32 spline out-put it has to be binding. Are you running a 1350 yoke or a 1410?

I run 2.5 ton rocks with 18-4 26 r2's it's 4 linked with coils with a 21.5" profab drop t-case going to 2" axles in the rear broke the stock replacement axles

I'm gathering parts for an eventual build, but the drivetrain looks like this:

454 (have) Going to add a blower or juice.
TH400 Manual w/ compression braking
203/LM205 (got the 203)
2.5T Steering Rocks w/ 2" Ouverson's (got the Rocks)


The tire for straight mud will be a R1 or R2 style tire, 50"+.

Dana 70 rear and Dana 60 front with 35 spline Superior chromoly axes, CTM u-joints, Detroit lockers front and rear and drive slugs. Used to run a C-6 but I couldn't keep it alive so I've been running an NP-435 and an oversized Mcleod clutch with success for the last handfull of years.

Dana 70 rear and Dana 60 front with 35 spline Superior chromoly axes, CTM u-joints, Detroit lockers front and rear and drive slugs. Used to run a C-6 but I couldn't keep it alive so I've been running an NP-435 and an oversized Mcleod clutch with success for the last handfull of years.

Yeah, but you drive like a pussy. :flipoff2:

the front u-joint is running at 25 degrees at ride height

Yeah, but you drive like a pussy. :flipoff2:

I protest, I drive nothing like you :flipoff2:

Stock 60/10.25/T19/1345 in my junk, haven't broken anything yet... But I'm running little tires(38.5 skinnies) and no real serious HP, an 8.0:1 460 does not big hp make...

Pro, that a single or dual disc McLeod clutch you're running? I've been kicking around the idea of going with one of those so I can keep my T19, I haven't been able to find a decent clutch that will take a launch with any sort of rpm in high range. 1500 seems to be about the max I can pull off without clutch smoke if I dump it. I know gears lower than 4.10's would help, but, if I could pull off a 3rd high launch I wouldn't need to worry about shifting in the 250 foot pit... Right now even in 2nd I have to get the clutch engaged before 1500, then hammer on it.

i got a 1975 ford f250 hiboy heavyduty its old running grear was a 390 to a 4 speed manual and a divorced 205 to a d60 rear 30 spline axle shafts and a f
d44 heavy duty with 27 spline axles and it was a kingpin style it also had hydro assist steering from the factory.

now i got the same truck with 2.5 ton rocks its gonne have 46 american farmers 203-205 doubler and a 460 mildy built. i was thinking about 4link but to much money and not enough know how or a place to build it i wish i had pics but dont:homer::flipoff2::evi

78 f-250, mild 460, t-18 and 205. 60's front and rear,4.56's detroit front,trac lok rear.4" lift 42" swampers.selling all that except the truck. have rockwells and 4 link parts, c-6 and new 205. also planing to stroke to 557. want to run 54 boggers but, will probably end up on xzl's(way cheaper).

I protest, I drive nothing like you :flipoff2:

Curbs are hard on shit.

89 k5 carbed 350 700r4 208 14ff (was 12b till too much air cracked pumpkin in 3 spots) d44 other than the 12 bolt took me a year to break a front inner shaft

http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq74/XRMPerformance/l_398764061e154f5bbe79bbc19c746bb2.jpg

found out tsls have no grip

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/diggin33/Jesse%20Blacks%20Tug%20of%20War%20Nov14th/th_100_6121.jpg (http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e239/diggin33/Jesse%20Blacks%20Tug%20of%20War%20Nov14th/?action=view&current=100_6121.flv)


http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq74/XRMPerformance/benifit%208%2008%20races/DSC01143-2.jpg

my build truck/plans
mild 460/c6/205/200/rocks (open front for now, welded rear) hydro assist, 4link front, leafs rear, 53" michelins, "street legal" haha
never ending project so havn't got to break anything yet.....

current mud truck
mild 408/built c6/205/d44(w/ chromos)/14b(w/ chromos)/ 5:13's, 40 boggers
broken 1 shortside chromo and 2 ujoints....

Road worthy 84 1/2 ton chevy 305 auto 4 speed, 208 tranfercase ,33x15x15 tsl, 3.08 gears. My build 70 gmc 350, sm465 tranny ,205 case ,4.10 gears, 36 in hummer tires.Got a dana 60 and 14 bolt almost ready to swap in. Will be ready for spring!
pics soon

We should have something going for the guys doing strictly comps and one just for fun

i run an 80 f-250, front axle pushed 12 inches ahead, d60 front sterling 10.25 rear, 4.10 gears and locrights, running a 205 and np 435, then a worked over 408m, pushing about 450hp, kept the cam on the mild side to still pull an ok vaccuum at idle (i've ran into a few places that require pulling a certain vacuum at idle in the class i race in, but it'll still rev and live at 7000rpm with power all the way there :) , that said i'm running 4v quench heads that have been taken to the max porting wise, zero deck pistons with about 11:1 CR, comp cams 275deh, fully balanced and all the things to go with it all.

got any ideas on how to keep from snaping the front output shaft again? i was lucky and had a extra 205 so i just changed the whole case

Yep. and axles, and pretty much anything driveline related. ahem=
step 1- gears! your running 3.50 gears!
step 2- disreguard step 1 and upgrade in axles to at least a 1 ton rear with 4.88 or 5.13 gears and re gear the front to match.

an easy rear is a ford 10.25 / 10.50 from an f250/350 late 80's to late 90's. Easy to find 4.10 geared ones. That is what i had and all my buddies run that same rear end.

axles have nothing to do with snaping a 32 spline np205 output shaft. i dump my clutch at 6 grand and the output shafts the only thing i've broke at the mudbogs, everything else i broke in the mountains

axles have nothing to do with snaping a 32 spline np205 output shaft. i dump my clutch at 6 grand and the output shafts the only thing i've broke at the mudbogs, everything else i broke in the mountains


actualy your gearing can make a huge dif and those tires put alot of stress on shit it takes more torque to turn your tires with the gears you have so more stress on everything in between would go with at lease 3/4 ton running gear cause it would be easy to get then get a 1 ton front end later but you def need to upgrade axles

axles have nothing to do with snaping a 32 spline np205 output shaft. i dump my clutch at 6 grand and the output shafts the only thing i've broke at the mudbogs, everything else i broke in the mountains

Then
a) you're ignorant
and
b)WTF did you ask?

My rig is a 454 with a TH400 and a Profab t-case, 1410 joints in the driveshafts and 2.5 Rockwells with Ouversons 2" shafts front and rear. Spooled rear and locker in the front with a single pinion brake on the rear. 18.4-26 Rice & Canes

axles have nothing to do with snaping a 32 spline np205 output shaft. i dump my clutch at 6 grand and the output shafts the only thing i've broke at the mudbogs, everything else i broke in the mountains

actualy your gearing can make a huge dif and those tires put alot of stress on shit it takes more torque to turn your tires with the gears you have so more stress on everything in between would go with at lease 3/4 ton running gear cause it would be easy to get then get a 1 ton front end later but you def need to upgrade axles

Yep. The 3.50 gears you are running is putting tremendous stress on your drivetrain, Increase the gear ratio and relieve a lot of strain. Trust me. And now 6k RPM dumps on the clutch, well there is no bulletproofing for shock load.

And an example of the gearing problem- you ever tried to climb up on a car or rock or something? Did you make it?

87 Bronco. 40" Boggers, Running on the Dana 44 TTB front end, stock 8.8 rear axle, stock 3.55 gears, stock transfer case, 1996 351 mass air motor, and a 78 C6 transmission..

Only thing it's broken were the drivers side axle twice, and 1 hub..

My rig is a 454 with a TH400 and a Profab t-case, 1410 joints in the driveshafts and 2.5 Rockwells with Ouversons 2" shafts front and rear. Spooled rear and locker in the front with a single pinion brake on the rear. 18.4-26 Rice & Canes

do you have any pics of your exhaust

I'm running a SBC 350 about 350HP, Th350 w/B&M Stage 2 shift kit, NP205 32 spline front shaft, also have 1350 driveshafts F&R and stock toys diffs w/welded rear. I gotta add a front locker and longfields to the front to help protect it.

So far no breakage, but I'm only turning 33s:laughing:.

http://i44.tinypic.com/5sk1f.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/vhersj.jpg

Break'in Front D60 R&Pinion. D80F on the wish list next year.

In the 78 Im running the stock 60rear 44front to keep things light, 205/np435/460 with a little help :D. was running 34" swampers, running 38" michelins right now, they are leaving for some 38.5 boggers soon. broke 2 rear driveshafts, 3 front driveshafts and one factory inner/outer longside, and a passenger rear leaf spring. cant go too crazy or i get to play in mod at the races.

79 Ford Supercab, 400m, c6, np205, t136, 2 1/2 to driveshafts, rocks welded front/rear, 2 1/2 ton leaf springs & 53" michelin XLs

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n56/teamcrankitup/353629318_1216112438_0-1.jpg

78' 406 Mercedes Benz Unimog, 6 cyl. diesel;350ci, 20 speed manual tranny with 4000/1 super crawler gear, stock portal axles, 94" wheelbase, 49" 14X20 Michelin XL's. Pretty much stock. I have a 3" cab lift on the rear cab mounts to help a little with clearance. Only ran one mud bog race, won by a mile. Wieghs in at 11,000lbs+. Nothing breaks.

i got a 84 K5 Blazer, stock running gear, 6" lift, recently rebuilt motor, 35" ground hawgs soon to be 35" LTB's

i wanna put some 3/4 ton axles under it (12bolt/D44).

i dont do mud racing or huge mud bogs, mostly trail rides and mudidng on private property.

the 3/4 ton will be for 38s or 40s if and when i get to that point.

Pro, that a single or dual disc McLeod clutch you're running? I've been kicking around the idea of going with one of those so I can keep my T19, I haven't been able to find a decent clutch that will take a launch with any sort of rpm in high range. 1500 seems to be about the max I can pull off without clutch smoke if I dump it. I know gears lower than 4.10's would help, but, if I could pull off a 3rd high launch I wouldn't need to worry about shifting in the 250 foot pit...


I'm extremely proud of myself for catching this question :D

Its the single disc McLeoud, advertised as a "race" clutch with a "harsh" engagement. Its their most aggressive clutch, but personally, I don't find it harsh at all and it hasn't slipped, not even once; which says one hell of alot considering the load I put on it. I did have my flywheel drilled for the bigger clutch, which makes a huge difference just by itself with the larger contact area. Granted, I try not to shift when I'm spinning in the slop and would risk getting crap between the flywheel and the disk, but still, I'd recommend this brand to anybody. Personally, with my gears I favor third low for racing, but we only have 200' tracks out here.

Hmm, sounds like a winner for sure, I may have to give it a shot.
Last summer my first run out with the truck with the tires, SAS and 4.10's was on a 200 foot track, I found myself still needing 4th low(works out about midway between 2 and 3 high) or doing the 2-3 high shift to try and keep the bottom end in the thing, mind you that is a fast track and not very deep, first run out on fresh dang near everything and I was running in the low 9's letting out at around 3/4 track as the exit on that particular one is pretty much 3 feet straight up and guarantees airtime, with how my pile is sprung in the front, I valued not bouncing my head off the roof alot more than going fast.
Unfortunately I didn't get to run the 250 foot track I normally do, If I had of taken it there, I'm pretty sure I would have lost the bottom end, as it is just trail riding it barely made the summer without killing itself.

Yup, its a fine balance between torque, horsepower, and gear.

Third low works well for my combo, at least in a 200' pit.

I'm gathering parts for an eventual build, but the drivetrain looks like this:

454 (have) Going to add a blower or juice.
TH400 Manual w/ compression braking
203/LM205 (got the 203)
2.5T Steering Rocks w/ 2" Ouverson's (got the Rocks)


The tire for straight mud will be a R1 or R2 style tire, 50"+.


That sure changed.

J35A3/L66 Engine (240hp V6, aluminum block)
5 speed auto, 1st= 2.69:1 5=.53:1, final drive 4.06:1
Dana 60's, undecided on ratios. 4:10's would give me 90mph @ 6kRPM with 44" tires, 1st gear @ 6k would be 17mph.


Finished curb weight hopefully 2600lbs or less on 44's.

one way to get off your butt and replace the worn beat engine

camera guy missed 3/4 of it

http://i435.photobucket.com/albums/qq74/XRMPerformance/JB%201%2023%2009/th_100_1223.jpg (http://s435.photobucket.com/albums/qq74/XRMPerformance/JB%201%2023%2009/?action=view&current=100_1223.flv)

My rig...'74 Ford,tube frame ,rear engine,blown 460,c-6,profab t-case, coil springs,3 link wishbone set-up front/rear,narrowed 2.5ton GM front ends,modified Ouverson hardcore axles in rear front end,4-wheel steering,49" R-1 tires . Youtube.com tag..Oroville mud bog sept first place

How about some tech??? What are ya' runnin?? Tires/Axles/TC/Trans/suspension/steering..........What are ya' breakin??

My Junk; 79' Big B w/87' KPD60 4.56 Detroit 35 spline hub to hub.Cage weld on arms, no C-bushings/Rancho 4" coils/D60 rear 35 spline 4.56 Detroit shackle flip traction bars. 42" TSL.Sawzall fender mods, NP435/205.High Angle (Jesse) 1350 rear CV shaft.

Hey I would be interested in some closeup pics of your radius arm set up with the 60, I am looking at 60s now and have been throwing around ideas for getting it under my f-150. thanks!


I have a 78 f-150, 460, c6, 205, 9'' rear, 44 front, 3.50 gears and 33'' LTB's the dana 44 snaps like a toothpick every time I stand on it, really sad considering the 460 is stock and somewhat tired and the 44 is open diff. I am really looking forward to 60 land haha

I'm running a SBC 350 about 350HP, Th350 w/B&M Stage 2 shift kit, NP205 32 spline front shaft, also have 1350 driveshafts F&R and stock toys diffs w/welded rear. I gotta add a front locker and longfields to the front to help protect it.


do you have a build page? I want to build a mud racer and the rig I am invisioning is very similer to yours I would like to check out your rig more.

72 chevy, 6.2 LS motor w/530hp, th400, divorced 205, 1410's, 2 1/2 tons, detroit front with wheel brakes and welded rear with pinion brake, leaf springs w/traction bars, 53 michelins.

88 chevy 60/14 bolt welded rear, 71 camaro 350, sm465 ad a 205 sittin on 39.5 iroks does way better in the mud with the 4.56's and manual over the 3.73's with an auto and 39.5 tsls

67 m715

427 chevy tall deck
540 allison 4 speed
906 GMC 2 speed transfercase
M211 GMC 2.5 ton axles 6.17 gears welded
47" millitary tires
USA 6x6 run flat wheels
16000 warn winch

bbc, th400, married ford NP205, hp dana 44 from a 77 ford, 9 inch rear, 5.13s, 38.5x11x15 boggers in the front, cut 39.5 boggers in the rear. front is suspended with Fox 18" travel air shocks, rear is lower than stock 4wd with leaf springs. traction bars, 4wheel disc brakes.

most carnage/broken parts in this version of the trucks life:

dana 44 yukon stub shaft, ripped the ears off, blew the ends of the ujoint caps off, didnt hurt the inner. done while pushing a vertical wall in a mudhole, only that tire had traction.

9 inch rear, broke the right side axle shaft while doing a donut and the right side tire got traction in a bank... broke the shaft, spread the spool carrier bearing enough to split the inner bearing race, broke the diff carrier bearing cap right off.

cut boggers dont have much in the way of lateral traction, so sidehilling isnt a lot of fun, just mash the throttle and point uphill.

cut boggers dont have much in the way of lateral traction, so sidehilling isnt a lot of fun

ohhh poppycock, of couse they do, granted to takes a lead foot with 700+hp at the other end of the giggle pedal :flipoff2:

ohhh poppycock, of couse they do, granted to takes a lead foot with 700+hp at the other end of the giggle pedal :flipoff2:

i have 2 horsepower, and one of em is sick!

d60/14b, 1410s, profab, pglide, hydro, and i run 44s, 38s, and 24-11.2 tractors sometimes. i was breaking r&p's in the front but i think i got that straightened out now

383 Stroker (550HP/550 Ft/Lbs @4400), NV4500, NP241, D60, 4.56, Power-Trak, 14BFF, 4.56 Detroit, 15x39.5x17 TSL's.

eh... i'll play.

my mud truck....
18.4-30 R2's/5 Tons/Stock/4L80e/4 Link/hydraulic ........ not finished, so i havent broken anything. :D


i guess i could update this.... that setup broke a 1610 u-joint, but that was it.

the current setup is...
30.5-32 R2's - planetary/2.5 ton hybrid axles - stock 6.0 and 4L80 still. i haven't broken anything with this....

i'm thinking about swapping to a cummins and 545 allison transmission.

How about some tech??? What are ya' runnin?? Tires/Axles/TC/Trans/suspension/steering..........What are ya' breakin?

Not extreme like the majority of yall :flipoff2:

-37x13.50" Pro Comp Xtreme All-Terrains (temporary)
-2006 Dana 60 front, 35 spline inner & outer stock shafts with 4.88's & Detroit Locker/ 2001 Sterling 10.5 35 spline stock shafts with 4.88's & Detroit Locker
-Stock chain drive Toyota Tundra case
-Stock A340F
-Radius arm front w/ 12" FOA coil-overs; full leaf spring rear with Pro Comp ES3000 shocks
-Standard mechanical steering w/ hydro assist

Never broke anything on the axles (even when I had the Dana 50 front). Blew out 1 stock chain drive t-case and 2 Inchworm reduction boxes when I had them installed.

I suppose I could update mine. motor is in progress of a second rebuild since I last updated, now it's a stroked 400 to 434 cubes, 13.5:1 cr, 680 lift cam 1050 dominator carb and all the parts to make it hold together. Tranny is a top loader 4sp with 1 3/8" input and 31 spline output to a nv 273 tease out of a super duty, haven't decided if it will be married or divorced, depends on how much room there is in the framerails of the new race rig. Motor will be flirting with 700+ ponies if it all works how we hope, and if not it will be made ;) but I ain't telling how.

Carbed and cammed LS3 with a TH350, custom billet transfer case thats married and has Pro Fab gears. Axles are a D60 Rock Jock front with a ARB, and the rear is a 9.5" 14 bolt (yes I said 9.5"):flipoff2: thats been welded. Trucks got 54" cut Boggers. Used to break the t-case before I put in the billet one.

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj307/mudevil/razor/mudevil/IMG_2160Small.jpg

Since I last posted (several years ago)....there has been some new developments; 43" SX sneakers & RCV shafts & slugs. Pro has my BBF A- SINGIN'!:D Also new cam/lifters, chromo-pushrods & rev-limiter:homer:(AKA: "Dumb Guy" switch.)

ha just noticed this thread was from '09

'79 chevy with a hot little 350 (~300hp) sm465/np203, d44/FF14b with detroit lockers and 4.88 gears f & R with 44's. No problems for the 2 years I had it, but I was always leary about the d44

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv217/harley9703/trucks/l_b6a3667619c0470a9e585ece1b8e1dd6.jpg

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv217/harley9703/trucks/l_781614a353ce477bbec8600ec64d30f6.jpg

Next mall crawler

mighty 4.6 (~200hp)BW4404 with D60 F 35 spline outers open carrier, R d60 with a spool, alloy axle shafts both sides. 5.38 gears F&R.

Broke both axles in the rear and stripped 2 ring and pinions, this was on 49's

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv217/harley9703/rockwell/Big%20Truck/490891270_l-1.jpg

Now to make it a mud truck, and capible of doing something

5.4 s/c(~500+hp)4r100, 1410 drivelines, divorced np205, with 2.5tons. front open for now and rear welded on some 44's, 53's or 23.1 x 26 r2's

http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv217/harley9703/00%20Harley%20Big%20Truck/DSC08032.jpg

I guess I might as well share.

Outlaw Class Buggy thats still in the build phase for next year. 427/TH350/np205 with 52" Chevy leafs all the way around on 38-40" boggers/tsl's. D44/ 14ff with the "orb of traction"

79 K10 with a mildly build 350 (around 300hp)/sm465/np205 with 4" skyjacker leafs and mis-matched 33's. 10 bolts that are being swapped out this winter for D44/14ff.

I guess I might as well share.

Outlaw Class Buggy thats still in the build phase for next year. 427/TH350/np205 with 52" Chevy leafs all the way around on 38-40" boggers/tsl's. D44/ 14ff with the "orb of traction"

79 K10 with a mildly build 350 (around 300hp)/sm465/np205 with 4" skyjacker leafs and mis-matched 33's. 10 bolts that are being swapped out this winter for D44/14ff.
Sounds pretty wicked "Footloose" LOL!

I should probably update this, but, not much has changed... More snot out of the 460, slight suspension reconfiguration, 44's... LOL

I'll chime in as well.

Started. full size chevy minus glass and interior

Well worked over 454. HD th400 with bolt on yoke (thick case) well worked over as well and reverse manual valve body and trans brake, pro ratchet shifter, Divorce dodge 205 with 32 spine input and outputs, 1410 except for front output which is 1350 cv, 14 rear dodge 60 front. 5.38's yukons with detroits in both and 1410's. 35's and 38's boggers of course. Stock steering.

Changes all from 35's
Detroits removed now spools as both lockers broke.

Front shafts broke 4 stubs and two long inners on 35's. Went to 70 outers and non neck down inners. Had to go to 35 spline drive flanges got from east coast gear.

Stock steering went away to crossover and hydraulic assist.

suspension change in the works. 8" springs are good for hitting the jumps, sucks for dragging even with traction bars. In need of some fancy shocks as well.

Also having a fuel supply issue at the moment that I have yet to figure out.

Orielly replacement aluminum radiator blew the plastic tanks off the side. Went to a howe racing radiator all aluminum. Was the closest to the stock size that I could find and picked it up for 180 bucks.



later
jenks

I'll chime in as well.

Started. full size chevy minus glass and interior

Well worked over 454. HD th400 with bolt on yoke (thick case) well worked over as well and reverse manual valve body and trans brake, pro ratchet shifter, Divorce dodge 205 with 32 spine input and outputs, 1410 except for front output which is 1350 cv, 14 rear dodge 60 front. 5.38's yukons with detroits in both and 1410's. 35's and 38's boggers of course. Stock steering.

Changes all from 35's
Detroits removed now spools as both lockers broke.

Front shafts broke 4 stubs and two long inners on 35's. Went to 70 outers and non neck down inners. Had to go to 35 spline drive flanges got from east coast gear.

Stock steering went away to crossover and hydraulic assist.

suspension change in the works. 8" springs are good for hitting the jumps, sucks for dragging even with traction bars. In need of some fancy shocks as well.

Also having a fuel supply issue at the moment that I have yet to figure out.

Orielly replacement aluminum radiator blew the plastic tanks off the side. Went to a howe racing radiator all aluminum. Was the closest to the stock size that I could find and picked it up for 180 bucks.



later
jenks

cough, cough, update build thread ,cough :D

2.5ton(weled rear open front)/14.9 r2/477bbc/th400/profab/4linked/hydraulic

Sounds pretty wicked "Footloose" LOL!

Hey, if you cant beat em', join em'. :flipoff2:

Forgot to post these:homer:. Thats a 1350 H.A.D. CV & D60 pinion yoke. Bent pushrods/exploded lifter from some over revvin' earlier in day:(.So yeah I destroyed my d-lines runnin' on 6-1/2 cylinders.

That pushrod has a 'slight' bend to it.

That pushrod has a 'slight' bend to it.
Sir yes Sir! 4Low & 2nd gear @7000 rpm's for approx. 1 minute:eek: To conquer a LONG STEEP climb. I recall thinking: "If I don't make it I'm gonna roll back down the hill!" I made it.:shaking: So I kept on wheelin' that day thinkin' I had a "carb" issue.
What's really crazy is we found the lifter guts in the intake valley. The spring or other lifter guts could have very easily made it to cylinders.
I believe I was EXTREMELY lucky:D.

Sir yes Sir! 4Low & 2nd gear @7000 rpm's for approx. 1 minute:eek: To conquer a LONG STEEP climb. I recall thinking: "If I don't make it I'm gonna roll back down the hill!" I made it.:shaking: So I kept on wheelin' that day thinkin' I had a "carb" issue.
What's really crazy is we found the lifter guts in the intake valley. The spring or other lifter guts could have very easily made it to cylinders.
I believe I was EXTREMELY lucky:D.

Holy crap :eek: I'd say you were pretty lucky!

Details in my sig..


http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq353/GMC1983/20100919_24.jpg
http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq353/GMC1983/20100919_27.jpg
http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq353/GMC1983/20100919_28-1.jpg

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq353/GMC1983/GreenTruck2.jpg

79 F250, 460, NP435, 205, LP44 front welded (thanks PO), D60 rear welded.

Breaks a lot of front shafts as would be expected, and the front yoke on the driveline once.

Future plans are a mild 512, 500 horse as a conservative goal. Cant decide on axles, I could build a D70 front with outers I have or run rocks, both are cheaper than a D60 front in these parts and would hold up better with the ags I want to run.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q139/BigDaddyHyde/fordcamo.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q139/BigDaddyHyde/tach.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q139/BigDaddyHyde/moyieroad.jpg

Future plans are a mild 512, 500 horse as a conservative goal. Cant decide on axles, I could build a D70 front with outers I have or run rocks, both are cheaper than a D60 front in these parts and would hold up better with the ags I want to run.

If I were doing mine again today, I'd sink my money into the rockwells. We didn't have any of the upgrades for them ten plus years ago, but these days they are a sure bet.

Thats kind of the way im leaning, have seen sets for $6-800 recently so cant really beat that.

Thats kind of the way im leaning, have seen sets for $6-800 recently so cant really beat that.

I'd definitely go that route. The beauty is once you start breaking stuff the aftermarket support is there to beef up the rocks as much as you'll need.

AMC 360, TH400, BW 1339, D44 f/r, 34" LTBs.


http://youtu.be/auXdicJOis8

My drivetrain, nothing special.

79 Bronco Version 1.0: 1970 T-bird 429, c6 w/shift kit, np203, D44, 9"

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x154/tannerblaster/47003_442219587105_687737105_5418695_178726_n.jpg

Found the weak link(s) real quick

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x154/tannerblaster/TannersSeniorSeminar008-1.jpg

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x154/tannerblaster/CopyofTannersSeniorSeminar010.jpg

79 Bronco Version 2.0: 1970 T-bird 429, c6 w/shift kit, twin stick 205, 2002 D60, disk brake sterling, 1410/1350 jointed shafts

No pictures yet, its still being put together

This winter I am upgrading my drivetrain as part of my build. I was going to swap in a built 440 but decided to go a different direction. I am stroking the 5.9 360 to a 408 which will be supercharger with a Procharger. Looking around 460lbs of torque and 600-650hp. The 46RE is being built with 48 internals and a forged main shaft full manual valve body. I run an Atlas II 3.8:1. The axles are Rockwells running an Overson spool in the rear and ARB up front. Putting in for the TTC Champions cup.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v69/ffdustyw/Meet%20and%20Greet%202004/DSCN2131.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v69/ffdustyw/Meet%20and%20Greet%202004/DSCN2125.jpg