After owning the yj with dana35 thing:mad: , I am paranoid as to axle strength. Will the stock sammy diff be able to handle the 5.125 gears and a locker running 33" tires? Rather than heresay, I want to here from those that have this combo, or from those that have had bad experiences from this.

Shaun

My axles are stock, I run 33x15 boggers, and my rear diff is welded. I crawl rocks but do a little mud also. Havn't had any breakage at all this year

I have stock axles with 5.125's and detroits F&R on 33's. I've wheeled this setup for three years on the rocks and haven't broken anything (yet). I have birfield rings as well though. If I hadn't invested so much in tires and wheels and the rest of the stock buildup, I would switch to Toyota's or 44's though. I'd like the piece of mind to not have to worry about it.

I run 33's with lockers on stock axles, 5.13's and a 4.89 t-case.... I've broken 4 fronts, 0 rears. Three of the failures happened when a tire got wedged down between rocks, two happened the same day in a 10ft section of trail. The other break was from too much skinny pedal.:rolleyes: I have birfield rings also. If you run trails like I do, you need to start a spare axle collection, 'cause you'll need 'em. :)

this year 1 broken short rear and sheared the hub bolts off of the short front but no breakage up there Locked front and rear eventualy youl want to change or like chris said stockpyle axles hell 30 sec to brake 12 min for a birf replace you get quick after awhile.:D :D

You wheel in the sloppy stuff right? If it's anything like washington state, and are a light foot you'll be ok. I never broke with 33's and stock axles......That all changed when I came home to California and started wheeling on dry rock:eek: :eek:

Needless to say I have toyota axles now:D

My first trip out with new 33's, GRS-II (4.87) and stock 3.73s I broke one rear and twisted the other. I broke the front axle on the next trip.

However, we wheel rocks with LOTS of traction. Properly geared for 33's you are on the limits of stock axles. It all depends on the type of terain and the amount of right foot.. :D

I ran 32" TSL/SXs for 02 years, locked in the rear. Mostly deep mud and deep ruts. Never broke. Bent the shite out of the axle housings, but never broke. A friend, unlocked and running 33" TSLs, took out a front birfield, doing the no-no of tight turning in reverse...

I think that, one way or another, we´re all saying the same thing. That is, a 32" tire is the limit for stock axles and lockers and 33s is where the breakage starts...

ok, i'm reading and i have to comment, your all saying 33" tire, but think about it......... a 33" swamper measures in at close to 33"........ while a 35" bfg mud will only measure about 33"....... so it really all depends on what type of 33 you want to run, if you get a 33" bfg, you'll be fine.......33" swamper, you'll eventually break........
:D

33 TSL: 33.7"

32 SX: 31.6"

So that is two full inches difference.

Originally posted by mud-magnet
ok, i'm reading and i have to comment, your all saying 33" tire, but think about it......... a 33" swamper measures in at close to 33"........ while a 35" bfg mud will only measure about 33"....... so it really all depends on what type of 33 you want to run, if you get a 33" bfg, you'll be fine.......33" swamper, you'll eventually break........
:D


Oops. Of course you are correct, except for one small point.....

Here on POR, BFGs are not considered off-road tires. Therefore, any reference to those POS should be restricted to the Chit-Chat section......:D :flipoff2:

Originally posted by mud-magnet
ok, i'm reading and i have to comment, your all saying 33" tire, but think about it......... a 33" swamper measures in at close to 33"........ while a 35" bfg mud will only measure about 33"....... so it really all depends on what type of 33 you want to run, if you get a 33" bfg, you'll be fine.......33" swamper, you'll eventually break........
:D

Not to mention tire compound and inflation pressure....

Come on guys, don't get caught up on the "it's the size that counts". :rolleyes:

It's not the size of the tire, it's the gear reduction required to turn them. :) If you run 100:1 crawl, even with 31's you will break axles!

whats with all the PRO swamper crap, we alwasy get into debats on this....

a swamper is heavy !!! a little wheel spin on a "non-swamper" radial type tire will go a long way...

and to the original ? ----> when i started, it was "no dont run bigger than 31s" now 32s are "ok" personally i think bottom line its all on how you drive and what your set up is...

Ive seen guys running big tires on d35s and say they hold up fine...and we all know thats bs so.... either figure out as you go, or find someone who has a similer set up AND driving style as you and make a decision...

or....

slap on the toy axles and forgedabodit.....

FWIW: I shaved my toy axle last nite and the instant i pulled out the shafts and got a look at the shafts and rear bearing size I have absolutley no regret for taking (making ) the time to do the upgrade.... lets say i wont be carring spares anymore...

and speeking as a voice of reason......
if your reason for buying a zuke was for a low budget 4x4, stick to cheepo 31s and pound the pi$$ out of it.... anything more you will have to always "worry" about things.... Its easy to get caught up in upgrades for no reasons....

-yag

Well Said!!!!

Originally posted by zukipuke
and speeking as a voice of reason......
if your reason for buying a zuke was for a low budget 4x4, stick to cheepo 31s and pound the pi$$ out of it.... anything more you will have to always "worry" about things.... Its easy to get caught up in upgrades for no reasons....
-yag

Bingo - short sweet.... to the point! :)

I used to run 31" and pound the snot out of it constantly, now i run 33" boggers and im waiting :eek: