hey everybody

well a few weeks ago i swapped in a waggy 44, along with waggy steering, and a RK 3-link.

well right now its not inspected, or insured, but i should be able to get it inspected and get it back on the road. but before i do this, i want to make sure its completely streetable, so i dont waste time and money with putting insurance on it.

after the swap though, something in the front end has been very loose. the track bar hole in the TNT truss, was slightly larger then sleeve in my trackbar, so ive got a little bit of play there. but ive seen far worse without the front end acting this bad. also ive got quite a bit of tie rod roll. thought about buying 1 or 2 of these http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=1TNSTBSH&Category_Code=S6

which ive been told will pull the rod ends down onto the knuckle more and get rid of the roll.

other then that everything is tight. off road theres quite a bit of clunking, and i can even feel it through the wheel, and driving on the road if i try to go over 25 mph i get worse death wobble then i did when i had 6 inches of lift on stock control arms:laughing:

but my thoughts are get a bigger bolt for the track bar mount, and drill out the track bar bushing sleeve, then try that JCRoffroad polybushing, and if that doesn't work say screw it all, and build some 1 ton steering. any ideas though on what could cause this much wobble. the the rod ends do seem to have quite a bit of play in them, but i didn't want to put any money in stock steering.

A loose track bar plus worn tierod ends could make for a lot of play in the front end. They work together so when one shifts, so would the other.

Best way to find clunks is to get a friend to turn the wheel for you while you sit under the front of the jeep. Look at:

steering box bolts
trackbar frame mount bolts
tie rod ends (loose bolts or worn)


If it doesnt make any noise when turning, then go back and tighten the crap out of the lca and uca bolts, shock mounts, and sway bar. Then really lock down any lock nuts, everything can pretty much be as tight as you can get it. I was retightening bolts in my front end for like a year while everything settled, which loosens bolts.

Good luck, clunks can be quite annoying.

thanks

ive looked at the front while my brother turned the steering wheel, and the tie rod seems to "roll" a lot more then it should. i actually have the bolts tightened down a lot, and with my hand i can grab the tie rod and twist it back and forth.

and if i knew it was only going to be wheeled i wouldn't worry about it too much. but i feel like its too nice of a jeep to only see trail. perfect body, and put a new motor in it with only about 4k on it.

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww25/wishihad1/jeep6.jpg
http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww25/wishihad1/jeep3.jpg
http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww25/wishihad1/jeep.jpg
http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww25/wishihad1/jeep1.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa239/iwishihad1/n1563690294_30466156_8422.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa239/iwishihad1/n1563690294_30466157_9198.jpg

pics added for no real reason other then to show why i dont want it to turn into a beater quite yet

If you don't have the captured bushings on the tie-rod like the axle came with (or if they are worn out) the tie-rod will roll a lot. You can get the parts from your local Jeep dealer. You'll need the 2 cupped washers and the bushing for each side. Adding one to the drag link will help as well.

With the angle on your drag link it is still going to roll some but this should help a lot if its currently rolling as easily as you said.

You can see the parts in this pic.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=1031878&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/Spicer/4011122-4.jpg

your angle on your drag link is so steep and you cut your stock trackbar down so short, you are going to get pretty bad bump steer even with perfect TREs. You need to take the sleeve out of your trackbar and use a 1/2" bolt in there to eliminate some of that movement, also the spacers that have been mentioned will help, but truly for a lift as high as you are you should do crossover steering to flatten out that drag link angle.

without crossover you could also build a new tie rod and drag link and use a hiem with a bracket to make your angles better. I just did this to a friends jeep because he didnt want to spring for flat top knuckles....this way eliminates the tie rod roll problem.

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1970/141/106/543005419/n543005419_2423491_4568.jpg

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1970/141/106/543005419/n543005419_2423489_4014.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v1502/141/106/543005419/n543005419_2250319_9004.jpg

this is the highsteer on my 44, with the flat drag link you get very little bumpsteer. Also you need to think about the length of your track bar, I see that you moved it up so that it would be more parallel, but it also needs to be nearly the sam length as your drag link.

http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-sf2p/v323/62/1/12701760/n12701760_36536184_1629.jpg

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Steering-Kit-78quot-with-High-Misalignment-Spacers_p_1337.html

probably going with this kit. any thoughts on it?

also any other input on just pulling the sleeve out of the bushing and running a much larger bolt through it?

thanks

could i buy that kit, and then build similar steering like you have above, with the tab that comes off of the tie rod?

call wrights junkyard get wj steering knuckle get that ballistics kit and do it right. you have to fix that track bar mount, any play there will cause DW esp w/ worn tre's. i cant see the pics right now (on my cell) but you might want an over the axle TB bracket as well as a double shear frame mount.

and if i knew it was only going to be wheeled i wouldn't worry about it too much. but i feel like its too nice of a jeep to only see trail. perfect body, and put a new motor in it with only about 4k on it.

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww25/wishihad1/jeep6.jpg
http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww25/wishihad1/jeep3.jpg
http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww25/wishihad1/jeep.jpg
http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww25/wishihad1/jeep1.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa239/iwishihad1/n1563690294_30466156_8422.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa239/iwishihad1/n1563690294_30466157_9198.jpg

pics added for no real reason other then to show why i dont want it to turn into a beater quite yet

Fixed the pics for ya, I would start with the movement in the track bar bolt.

thanx, yea those are some steep angles! do you have a drop pitman? you need a sleeve in that bushing or youll be replacing it after evey run. you can drill the bushing to except a bigger sleeve or get a new bushing made for a 1/2" bolt. is there anyway to re lengthen the TB?

well ive got a drop pitman arm for a waggy. what would WJ knuckles do for me. i know they would allow people with a dana 30 to swap em and run OTK steering, but ive already got that.

for the trackbar...theres really no way to lengthen it unless i cut off the tnt mount (real pita...it wraps and is welded on all 3 sides of the truss). i got a 1/2 inch bolt yesterday, so im going to drill out the sleeve a little bigger and run that bolt and see what happens. i also ordered the poly spacers as the stock ones are worn to pretty much dust.

other then that im planning on ordering 7/8 inch heim/dom steering by spring break so i can throw hydro assist on there

ive also got chevy flat top knuckles on it, with the driverside already drilled, and studded. i was looking at doing hi-steer, and puttin an arm on the passender side, but when looking at how high it will move it up im not sure how i would get a ram to be parallel with the drag link since it will be so high up over the axle tube. might have to make a custom mount to go on the truss?

my bad missed the waggy front :rolleyes:

one way to get the over axle tb bracket as far right as poss, is to offset your coil buckets, this also pushes the axle foward as well as helps clearence issue with the tb draglink and the coils