ok folks, i need some input. my tracker is stretched 12" (body&frame both), has 1.6 8v (124-133 psi comp., japan engine in san leandro calls this adequate:shaking:) 5 spd.,ott kick 2 & 4:1 toy case, toy axles w/elec rear lock, fox 2.0 air shocks, y-link front, triangulated 3 link rear, hydro assit steering, 39x18 baja belteds, pickup cab conversion w/removable polycarbonate sunroof. i'm running 4.10 gears down stream of the 1.8:1 high range (ott kicker2 box in low) for an effective "axle ratio" of 7.38:1. it works out to about 1% lower than the stock 5.21's&27" tire setup. power is nonexistent. i was going to rebuild the stock motor to the 170-199psi factory spec, maybe a little more since i seldom run below 5000' elev. i am thinking that i will want more power than i will get from this. my two favorite options are: rebuild then add a supercharger, or a ford 3.8 v-6. the chev 4.3 doesn't interest me, it's physically larger and much heavier than the ford. the 5.0 v-8 ford weighs less if i was willing to go that heavy on my front. the great chart recently posted here showing engine weights etc. shows the 1.6 at 250#(8v may be less) and the ford at 300#. by time i add a blower to the 1.6 the weights may be equal. power outputs may be about the same too with upgrades available for both. if i blow the 1.6, how long will rods/brgs. last? tranny? if i use the 3.8 i want use a t-5 trans. has anyone put this to the tracker/sidekick t-case? ott divorced yota case may work. adapter for the t-5 to yota case may still be available. other combos? remember, the rear diff is not offset like sammys. fuel range is a concern, my current setup is giving 13.5 mpg combined:barf:. engine is working too hard. if i go blower i can keep my dual cases etc.; if ford, then i will sell my 5spd/kick2/4:1 yota case setup and have to start over with tranny,t-case(or cases),crossmembers, motor mounts etc. suggestions? past experience?

well, at that high altitude, an engine would like some extra air compressed in. however, KISS applies when you're far out on your own in the desert. a normally aspirated engine would seem to be more reliable, and give better torque.
. which one is more available is junkyards? which one is cheaper to buy rebuilt or rebuild?
. also, there's an additive to the oil which is a one time deal and forms a metal ceramic in scratches, etc., and also in any high temperature wear point. it builds up till it's smooth with no hot spots and perfect smoothness. It's the temperature that builds it. when it's smoothed out, there's no more high points to raise temperature above the critical 'building' point.
. I'ts about $260 and you can find it on freeenergynews.com just click on a button down the left side of the page about engines, additives, and such. I forget the name of it, but a little searching will get it.

Why not a 22r? Yeah, they're heavy, but they've also got a low-end grunt, they're cheap & enough aftermarket support. Should up your MPG, and be a cheap swap.

Something to keep in mind:
N/A = cheap gas
Forced induction = High octane gas

If I had to pick between Ford swap, or boost - I'd go turbo (NOT supercharged), as they work really well at altitude. A supercharger works off your RPM, so if you go over an obstacle and the engine bogs, so does your forced injection. At turbo will actually spool more quickly under engine load (bogging engine = more expanding exhaust gas = turbo spooling) and help out. Keep in mind the real cost of forced injection:
Turbo / Blower
New intake
New exhaust
Fuel pressure regulator
New fuel pump
Wideband O2 sensor
Wideband o2 reader (for tuning)
New ECU maping :confused:

Lots of people running boost around 8psi or more with stock internals, but if your compression is already low...

turbonerd is right, it ain't cheap... and there aren't any bolt-on kits. unless you are ready to tackle a seriously complicated build and have a very high technical aptitude, it is best to go simple.

...OTOH, i like doing things the hard way. if you blow your 1.6 i can help give you a baseline fuel map in megatune. final outcome will depend on a lot of factors - not for the faint of heart. there is nothing simple about it, you should really have a grasp on engine management systems.

going SC will give you gobs of bottom end. turbos are okay, just not the kind of come-on i want in a slow-moving 4x4 with continuously varying loads.

will the rods and mains handle it? depends on how you drive. that is a personal thing. teamswift.net has some pretty extreme suzuki g-series engine builds that will give you an idea of what the internals are capable of handling.

good input folks. i do prefer supercharging to turbo. consider my winter operating environment. the last thing i need 60 miles out beyond human contact/phone service is a major induction failure. a sudden wave of snow (especially fresh powder after a storm) engulfing a red hot turbo is a recipe for cracking/splitting. also don't need the extra crap under my hood. as to availability, it's hard to beat the ford v-6. the transverse 3.8 may or may not have same bell pattern, if it's the same then the mercury sable would double availability at junkyards. if i choose blower, i will need assistance with programing. if 3.8, then i have to design a new wiring harness; i believe it's an eec-iv system. been there done that in a 62 falcon. either way i can handle it. i know that both options aren't for the faint of heart, but i did build this truck without any kit parts. i should get that red star and provide photos, it looks different from anything out there. i get alot of thumbs up.

almost forgot, if i choose 3.8 there is an adapter bell to fit a toyota 5spd. which yota trannys will be strong enough? i know 79-84 trannys were known to be fragile with the stock 4 cyl & small tires.

reading your other posts, it seems you are concerned with reliability in extreme cold over all else. that being the case, i would stick with a simple weber, a good ignition, and a gm alternator. i friggin' love the benefits of y2k+ efi, but the hack-n-chop to retrofit means a reliability risk. you can get tricky carb going with ether and zip ties as long as you have spark and fuel pressure. can't say that about efi. and a broken blower drive belt isn't something you can fix with duct tape and bailing wire.

i carry a multimeter and butane soldering equipment in my tool box, as well as spare parts, but i don't venture into central nevada without a second vehicle and crew.

maybe keeping it simple is best for your needs?

i appreciate the concern. i really could use more power/ wheel speed when the snow isn't set up yet or the crust gives way. i'm thinking that the 3.8 ford option would give me the choice of running a carb since i think they came that way in the early years. i could probably even go efi and carry a carb & low psi regulator in the "oh shit kit". if that fails too then i guess it will be snow shoe time. i'm also tired of 40 mph up the mountain pass 2-3 days a week! a rebuild might alleviate that.

i've been doing some digging and have decided on the 3.8. supersix motorsports has aluminum heads, cams, etc. at reasonable cost. they are building some over 500hp:eek:! i think i would need a set of wings under that! i feel 200hp is a more reasonable target, alot more affordable too. i think i will just start from scratch on a different chassis. i don't want to miss another summer of wheeling because the truck is disassembled again. i'm eyeballing a trio of derelict sammis in a neighboring town, hope i can score one. or all if cheap enough! i do have 2 other 1.6 motors in the garage that run well. thanks to all who gave their advice here.:smokin: