15 inch rims on one tons?

[ButtNuttN8]

I got 84 dana 60 front w a matchin sterling 10.25 out back this isnt street legel so im woundering how u guys are getting 15 inch rims on there. I know the dana 60s caliper needs to be grinded down how are you guys getting 15 inch rims to fit?

thanks

[hilbillypulling]

Disks on the rear, 4 hours of grinding on the front and wheel spacers up front

[little red toy]

2 inch backspacing rims all the way around.

[Loose07]

Not worth it in my oppinon but iv done it three times, gets to be a pain in the ass, never buy 15s again for the mudder, the less back spacing you have the easier it is to get them to fit, got about three hours into my 60,

[ButtNuttN8]

so i should fawk that idea and run 16.5 hummer H1 rims is that the story? well thats the way i was leaning its just theres a ton of 15 inch tires for sale right now didnt know if it would be worth it.

thanks for the answers

[TEX]

16.5's for mud? Eff that.

[ButtNuttN8]

ok no 15 no 16.5 than what :evil:

[TEX]

Grind away & make the 15's work - or go to 16's if the right tire is available.

[Elvis38]

Dually Hubs? But that may be unessecary $$$. Grinding disk are cheap.

[EarthResin]

I run 15" wheels on a balljoint Dana 60 and 14 bolt. I ordered my wheels with 2 inch backspacing. Everything clears the brakes well, but the truck is WIDE! I would recommend going with 2.5" or 3" backspacing, and grinding the front calipers as necessary.

Just my two cents!

[oneofakind97]

i had 15x14 eatons on my d60 and sterling 10.25. rears fit no problem. had to grind the shit outta the front calipers. i had 4" BS on the wheels, but i had to lose the squealers and get into the pad ears. truck barely fit into parking spaces. about a week later i switched out to 42" tsls on 16.5"s i got off craigslist on the cheap. fit waaay easier and rode alot better for some reason too.

yeah, that was my first post:smokin:

[Beener]

16.5's for mud? Eff that.

Why do you say that 16.5's are wrong for mud?

[TEX]

Why do you say that 16.5's are wrong for mud?

They don't have the proper bead to stay on a non-beadlocked rim, and any beadlocked 16.5" rims you'll find are stupid heavy.

[94stepsideford]

Why do you say that 16.5's are wrong for mud?

Because people are too damn lazy to weld a saftey bead around them.

[Beener]

They don't have the proper bead to stay on a non-beadlocked rim, and any beadlocked 16.5" rims you'll find are stupid heavy.

I must not be mudding as hard as you guys. I've got 16.5's with 35x12.50's and I haven't had a problem yet. That's not to say I won't though. I'm just running a bone stock '79 3/4ton chevy with a 350 and about 8" of lift. Thanks for the tips. I'll keep them in mind when I start making some power upgrades.

[DeleriousII]

ordered rims the other day for my chevy 60 front....we grinded down the dually hubs and made them single front wheel hubs...got a GREAT price on eaton 15x10 8 lug with 2.5" bs from National Tire and Wheel....he is on here as a vendor and gives a pirate discount if you mention you got his number from this site

[TEX]

I must not be mudding as hard as you guys. I've got 16.5's with 35x12.50's and I haven't had a problem yet. That's not to say I won't though. I'm just running a bone stock '79 3/4ton chevy with a 350 and about 8" of lift. Thanks for the tips. I'll keep them in mind when I start making some power upgrades.

You probably won't have issues at street pressures or even mild airing down unless you have a lot of motor. Most guys I know run Boggers at less than 8lbs with pretty healthy big-blocks and that doesn't work on 16.5's.

[jhama78]

remove front brakes altogether and run rear discs only...

[TEX]

remove front brakes altogether and run rear discs only...

Why on Earth would you do that???? First off, the front brakes provide the bulk of your stopping power. Second, the removal of the front brakes is going to not only bump you out of many of the lower classes, it'll make your truck illegal for ALL classes at any race utilizing MRA rules.

[jhama78]

I kinda figured that would get a wtf from a few people... haha, it does a few things,

1 it moves weight off of the front of the truck
2 allows 15 inch wheels to fit 1ton axles
3 and the trucks that its done on are race only and are locked in 4wd all the time so all 4 wheels stop when you step on the pedal

I know it wouldnt be the hot setup for anything that you would drive around but around here there are LOTS of trucks that have been running this setup for many years with no problems, and all of these trucks are straight line hill and hole race vehicles...

[6.2Blazer]

I have a regular old king pin, SRW, stock 1-ton brakes, Chevy D60 in my blazer running 15x8 wheels with 2.75" backspacing. I spent about a minute per side cleaning up the calipers from some very light rubbing on the rough parts of the casting. Rear axle is a 14FF converted to disc using 3/4 ton 10-bolt rotors and calipers with no interference issues.

Guy in our club has a '78 F-250 w/ factory D60 front axle and stock brakes running the same wheels (15x8, 2.75" BS) with no issues. Rear axle is a D70 with disc brakes, no issues.

The 15x8 size with 2.75" BS works great in this application as it allows 15" rims on the 1-tons with minimal to no work, and it doesn't make the truck any wider than a standard BS 15x10 rim. We both run 15.5" wide TSL's, mine are 39.5's and his are 42's. The skinny rim protects the rim edge better, and is a poor man's beadlock. Both are heavy fullsize rigs and the Ford has been running single digit air pressure for several years and never loss a bead even when the 500+ ft-lb. big block is singing. I haven't had mine as long but no issues so far running 10 psi or lower, and on my previous setup (38x13 TSL on 10" wide rims) I knocked the beads off the front at 15 psi every other ride.

[mj]

run 17s
15s are so 1980

[Beener]

What part of Missouri are you in TEX?

[TEX]

3 and the trucks that its done on are race only and are locked in 4wd all the time so all 4 wheels stop when you step on the pedal

So you're counting on your axles (assuming you have a welded diff) to stop the truck. What happens when a front axle breaks? You roll through the DQ line, that's what (saw it happen with a buddy of mine with no front brakes).

I know it wouldnt be the hot setup for anything that you would drive around but around here there are LOTS of trucks that have been running this setup for many years with no problems, and all of these trucks are straight line hill and hole race vehicles...

Hill N Hole trucks are going to be required to run 4-wheel brakes in 2010.


TEX

[TEX]

run 17s
15s are so 1980

You checked into mud tire (REAL mud tire) availability for 17's? Besides, nobody makes a really lightweight 17" rim. Heavy wheels are so 1970 :flipoff2:

[TEX]

What part of Missouri are you in TEX?

I'm about an hour West of STL.

[jhama78]

all of the trucks that it was done on are running spooled d60s with 35 spline shafts, and detroits in the rear... np205 cases with 1350 or 1410 joints at either end of the shaft.. breakage hasnt been a problem really and neither has stopping before the DQ line, whatever though none of the trucks are mine so it really doesnt matter to me much... :grinpimp:

[Beener]

I'm about an hour West of STL.

Nice. I've got some friends in Moscow Mills and Troy that are building a mud pit over there. I think he said somewhere along the lines "Hawk Point"?

[TEX]

Nice. I've got some friends in Moscow Mills and Troy that are building a mud pit over there. I think he said somewhere along the lines "Hawk Point"?

Yeah, I heard something about that on the Midwest Jeepthing forum. You ever been to the MMOR mud race at Hawk Point? Usually a really good one.

[Beener]

Yeah, I heard something about that on the Midwest Jeepthing forum. You ever been to the MMOR mud race at Hawk Point? Usually a really good one.

No, I've never been. Jason (previously mentioned buddy) told me that he and his business partners are supposed to be having an event sometime in March. This will be there first full year of operation and I think they are going to "try" have an event atleast twice a month. One for MMOR or some sort of sanctioned event and one for anybody that wants to come and play. Bogging style for the weekend warriors that just like to sling a little mud every now and then. Most likely, I think it will end up a weekend warrior play park. It's supposed to be extremely family freindly. Kind of like Bricks Off Road Park down here in the Bootheel.

[ridgecrawler]

run 17s
15s are so 1980

yea, but tires are cheaper for 15 inch rims.

[ridgecrawler]

So you're counting on your axles (assuming you have a welded diff) to stop the truck. What happens when a front axle breaks? You roll through the DQ line, that's what (saw it happen with a buddy of mine with no front brakes).



Hill N Hole trucks are going to be required to run 4-wheel brakes in 2010.


TEX

what's it matter if the diff is welded of not? last time i checked, the brake disc is bolted on at the wheel, even if the front axle has no brakes the rear brakes will stop ya, as long as your in 4wd. unless you loose a driveshaft. we use to run samuris like this all the time, it worked...but we were crawlin not muddin.

[TEX]

what's it matter if the diff is welded of not? last time i checked, the brake disc is bolted on at the wheel, even if the front axle has no brakes the rear brakes will stop ya, as long as your in 4wd. unless you loose a driveshaft. we use to run samuris like this all the time, it worked...but we were crawlin not muddin.

A driveline brake isn't effective on an open front differential.

[ridgecrawler]

A driveline brake isn't effective on an open front differential.

i'm not talking about a driveline brake, i'm talking about your rear axle brakes. if you have brakes on your rear axle, and you are in 4wheel drive, your front end will slow down right with the rear end, the transfer case will not let one end go free and the other not.

[ridgecrawler]

i'm not talking about a driveline brake, i'm talking about your rear axle brakes. if you have brakes on your rear axle, and you are in 4wheel drive, your front end will slow down right with the rear end, the transfer case will not let one end go free and the other not.



what i meant about the drive shaft is, if you loose a drive shaft or your transfer case then this is not effective.

[TEX]

i'm not talking about a driveline brake, i'm talking about your rear axle brakes.

Wouldn't make any difference. You're counting on the driveline to stop the fronts. And you can't effectively stop an open diff front with the driveline. The transfer case can't force both tires to TURN under power, so why would it force both tires to stop under braking?

[mj]

yea, but tires are cheaper for 15 inch rims.

grinding discs aint cheap

[TEX]

grinding discs aint cheap

I think you meant grinding calipers ;)

[ButtNuttN8]

lots of good info im required to have breaks on all axles front and rear so that leaves that out and for saftys sake id feel more comfortable when i upgrade the engine to have stoping power.

I just got my tax return so im upgrading the axles next is tires and rims just creating convo untill i get the cash to get the tires im gonna go 15 and grind alittle thanks

[ridgecrawler]

grinding discs aint cheap

sure it is, take a $1 GRINDING rock and go at it!

[ridgecrawler]

Wouldn't make any difference. You're counting on the driveline to stop the fronts. And you can't effectively stop an open diff front with the driveline. The transfer case can't force both tires to TURN under power, so why would it force both tires to stop under braking?

this is what i'm trying to say: if you have your truck in 4wheel drive and the hubs locked in, with no brakes on the front, but 100 percent brakes on the back, if you slam on your brakes, there is NO way possible for the rear tires to slow down quicker than the front ones, unless you loose a hub,or a driveshaft, or a t-case. i'm not saying that it will stop ya as fast as i should but it will stop ya, we've done this plenty, but like i said before, we were crawlin, not trying to run 60 mph in a mud hole.

[brooks294x4]

getting back to what this post is about, grinding the calipers is the easiest way, it pretty much depends on what type of rim and what backspacing you run, if you have aluminum rims, i think your gonna have clearance issues, and i have heard that ford 60's cant be ground down but never experienced it. search on this one, theres 190 billion people that ask the same questions as you are

[94stepsideford]

this is what i'm trying to say: if you have your truck in 4wheel drive and the hubs locked in, with no brakes on the front, but 100 percent brakes on the back, if you slam on your brakes, there is NO way possible for the rear tires to slow down quicker than the front ones, unless you loose a hub,or a driveshaft, or a t-case. i'm not saying that it will stop ya as fast as i should but it will stop ya, we've done this plenty, but like i said before, we were crawlin, not trying to run 60 mph in a mud hole.

Go out and jack up the front of an open diff rig. Have someone hold the driveshaft and you spin one front tire by hand. See what happens.

[Gutter Runner]

I ground mine. 15" wheels 4.25 backspacing. It doesn't take long if you grind it like this....

First I put a wheel on to see how far in I needed to start grinding. Then I scored a couple lines like this.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=363560

Then I ground in a cross hatch pattern. It seemed to help get an even depth and also speed up the grinding. Cut in, then knock the tops off.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=363561

Finished grind.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=363562

[HAPPYJOHN]

run 17s
15s are so 1980

totally, i mean, fer shur. tubular....:laughing:

[horsinaround]

I ran the same setup as gutter runner and had to grind exactly the same. Worked fine just took awhile. I got a deal on some 42-15-15s so thats the only reason i ran them. I would of much rather of used h1s but like i said i got the 15s for a score.

[kitimatdude]

I got a set of 10" wide 15"ers they have a big offset. I just tried them today on my dads '98 dodge and they fit like a glove! about 1/8" clearance from the calipers. No grinding required. His is the balljoint D60 I'm not sure if they have smaller brakes or not.:grinpimp:

[Proeliator]

run 17s
15s are so 1980

You checked into mud tire (REAL mud tire) availability for 17's? Besides, nobody makes a really lightweight 17" rim. Heavy wheels are so 1970 :flipoff2:

Pffft, this is why I have 44 Boggers on 16" rims. I was pretty happy when they came out with the 16" versions a couple years back. I hadn't really looked at Interco's other offerings, didn't they offer up a bunch of their other tires in a 16" rim as well?

All the cool kids are running 16s :p

[TEX]

Pffft, this is why I have 44 Boggers on 16" rims. I was pretty happy when they came out with the 16" versions a couple years back. I hadn't really looked at Interco's other offerings, didn't they offer up a bunch of their other tires in a 16" rim as well?

All the cool kids are running 16s :p

16" is definitely the answer where tire availbility isn't an issue. Didn't realize they made a 16" version of the 44 Bogger :smokin:

[Proeliator]

16" is definitely the answer where tire availbility isn't an issue. Didn't realize they made a 16" version of the 44 Bogger :smokin:

Yup, they came out two or three years ago. I snapped up one of the first sets :D I've got buddies running Boggers on bead locked 16.5s, but like you already pointed out, those are heavy pigs. Last thing thats helpful for axle survival is more weight on the tire/rim. I shudder to think what they weigh once they get packed full of high clay content mud. I'd just run ags and be done with it but out here anything other than dot tires puts you in the open class at the drags. I can't hang with the alcohol fed, uber light sand rails.

I also wish ag tires came with smaller rim choices. I hate how the bigger ones look on the huge rims....the thought of around a 49-52" ag with a 16" or even 17" rim and the resulting flexier sidewalls would be killer. The biggest I can find is @ a 45"....even those are advertised as a 16.1 but the truth is they fit perfectly on a 16" rim. The rumor is the .1 is to deter people from putting them on street rims. Don't know if thats true or not, but I do know they fit like a natural 16" tire on a 16" rim.

[Gutter Runner]

[HiJack on] I'm interested in getting some ag tires for my rig. Whats the largest tire you have seen for a 15" wheel. looking for 40 - 44".[HiJack off]

[Proeliator]

[HiJack on] I'm interested in getting some ag tires for my rig. Whats the largest tire you have seen for a 15" wheel. looking for 40 - 44".[HiJack off]

I think your sol, if I remember correctly, 16.1 is the standard small rim size for ag tires.

They may have agriculture "type" tires that were made for applications other than tractors, etc. that you might be able to find in smaller rim sizes, but I wouldn't know where to look for those.

[chevyguy15]

i run 15x12's on my srw dana 60.. eaton makes rims that will fit a dana 60 there like 109 bucks each

if you want pics of them on the axles let me know

[chevyguy15]

[HiJack on] I'm interested in getting some ag tires for my rig. Whats the largest tire you have seen for a 15" wheel. looking for 40 - 44".[HiJack off]

the 16.1 tires fit a 16 inch rim run beadlocks.

[Gutter Runner]

I'm looking for 15" that will fit the beadlocks that I have. I'm sure there are some ditch witch tires or something that are 15's. I just haven't found them yet.

[gustav129]

Some skidsteer tires are on 15" rims

[1stgenxxx]

my 15"s work fine with dually hubs. I have a SRW 60 and they also fit with no grinding.

[DWT]

Grinding the calipers is not a big deal... I conned my wife into doing it while I was out on the road one week. :D

http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff335/trashypants/Yota%20build%20pics/caliper.jpg

[KyleQ]

I just got around to getting wheels to test fit on the 60 and they wouldn't even fit at first WITHOUT a caliper on the axle :rolleyes: - I thought I was going to be grinding for days but after 45 minutes of careful grinding I got the wheel to fit with minimal scraping.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/1974%20Bronco/1%20Ton%20Swap/D60/th_DSCI0003-1.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/1974%20Bronco/1%20Ton%20Swap/D60/DSCI0003-1.jpg)

I grabbed one of my new calipers and threw it on there for kicks and tried to fit the wheel. The caliper isn't pinned into the hanger, so i'm sure it will come up a little ways - but I was able to slide the wheel all the way on, but it didn't spin freely...

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/1974%20Bronco/1%20Ton%20Swap/D60/th_DSCI0005-1.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/1974%20Bronco/1%20Ton%20Swap/D60/DSCI0005-1.jpg)http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/1974%20Bronco/1%20Ton%20Swap/D60/th_DSCI0006-1.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/1974%20Bronco/1%20Ton%20Swap/D60/DSCI0006-1.jpg)

It is a tight fit - after I get the axle where I want it to be and put it all together I'll take out a portable belt sander to each side and give it hell to gain some clearance...

[FULLSIZECHEVYGUY]

so roughly how much do you have to grind off the caliper ? Also since grinding equals heat do you have to remove the piston from the caliper to do this or does the heat from normal braking exceed the heat from the grinding ? and by the way WTF is the deal with 16x10 steel spoke wheels ? I cant seem to find them anywhere. kinda aggravating.

[Gutter Runner]

It all depends on how much B.S. your wheels have. More B.S. = more grinding. I don't think that the heat will bother your pistons at all.

[SAY789]

Ugh caliper grinding hurts especially when people find out you ground calipers on a hard to find 78-79 dana 60 lol but u do what ya gotta when u get good deals. And Pro the 16.5 44 boggers are some damn heavy tires when covered completely in clay

[yoder man]

Yea I've seen a set ground to clear a 15" wheel that have more meat left than a normal 3/4 ton caliper. So I'm sure they're as strong or stronger than a stock 3/4 ton caliper. That's why I'm pulling out the 12" grinder and going to town on mine. It shouldn't take to long with that.

[KyleQ]

I'll never do it again - my calipers use the rubber wedges to keep the caliper in place and last event I lost both of them and the caliper wedged into the wheel a few times in reverse and generally made a mess.

When I stepped up to 40's on going 16" wheels....

[leeman1790]

My wheels are 2.5 BS and I had to grind just a hair, like 5 minutes per side. No biggie.