I am having my DRW hubs turned down so I can run them as SRW hubs. Question I have now is whether or not the SRW rotor and the DRW rotor/brakes are the same. They list here as different numbers, so I would think not, but I have very little confidence that the parts clerk knows what he is doing. I know some of you have done this conversion, I will be using the DRW caliper hanger and calipers (which they claim are different part numbers than SRW calipers also), it would really help me wade throught he parts clerk red tape if I could just order the SRW stuff.

Thanks for any info.

Chad

1st. Search- I have covered this before.
2nd. The lug holes in the rotor need to be opened up to fit the press in studs- they were bolted on in the dually configuration and therefore have smaller bolt holes. The calipers and brackets are interchangeable.
3rd. :flipoff2:

I know you've covered this before - I was the one you covered it with. Thanks then and now. I know (thanks to you) that the rotor has to be opened up to accept the studs, etc. And I have the calipers already, they are correct. What I am asking is if you know if the actual rotor is the same from the DRW and SRW, only because the parts guys here do not have a clue, and I don't have a SRW rotor to compare to. This is so I can buy new rotors. If they are identical (other than the size of the holes for the bolts vs studs) then I can just order SRW rotors, and save the life of a parts dude.

Thanks for all your help in the past and now, if you knew this one additional piece of information it might help me navigate past the $3.50/hr parts dude. Everything else has turned out exactly as you previously described.

Chad

If the calipers are the same and the caliper brackets are the same then wouldn't the rotors be the same size except for the mounting configuration? I would have to think so.... do they have both of the rotors in stock? Just look at both and measure and compare. It'll save you time if the SRW rotors will work...

FYI the holes need to be enlarged to 43/64. and yes the hole size is the only difference between the two. the new stud you need will be Dorman part #283:D

Thanks, Tj Kid and beater 74 for the info - that is what I was looking for.

Just for info of anyone looking this up through SEARCH:

beater74's info was incorrect. I'm sure it was an honest mistake. Dorman 283 is the part number for the STANDARD 1 ton chevy stud. It has a knurl size of .650. 43/64 is .672, so obviously it will not fit, the stud will be loose, and this is exactly what happened when I went with this information. Again, I'm sure it was an honest mistake, my bad, I should have measured everything before drilling.

Anyway, if you happen to do this, Dorman part number 303 is a stud which is identical in most measuments (including thread), except that it is somewhat longer and has a knurl of .670. This is what I ended up using. The studs don't quite hold, there is not quite enough interference, so i am going to use locktite 680, which BillaVista looked up for me and found out is supposed to hold studs with up to 20 thou of clearance. Anyway, pm me if you want to know if this worked, within a few days I should know.

I'm not sure what the real drill bit size is for a stud with a .650 knurl, I would guess 41/64??? That would give 10 thou interence, but I'm not sure how much interference you are supposed to have, maybe someone with machining experience who knows could tell us.

Also, the 'knurl' is what they call the part with splines on it that presses into the hub and rotor.

HTH anyone trying this conversion.

Regards,

Chad

Also: although I was never able to do a side by side comparison, from the two rotors I saw and other information that I have gathered, I feel fairly confident in saying that the ONLY difference between the SRW and DRW rotors are the size of the holes - one is drilled for studs, the other for bolts. If you are looking for new rotors, then you can get the SRW ones, and around here, it really helps to know that. Just make sure that you have drilled the hub out for the STANDARD Dorman 283 stud, not the bigger one.

Also: Dorman 303 is supposed to have a knurl size of .678. This in theory should give it 6 thou interference with a .672 hole. In reality, I found that the actual size varied from .670 to .678 on these studs, and in any event 6 thou interference is not enough to hold it in there - I guess you need more than 6 thou interference.

I too would love a machinest to chime in and let us know what would be standard for a knurled inteference fit like a stud-in-rotor fit.

Thanks

Some additional information for anyone finding this thread in a search:

As may or may not be clear from the thread, when I did this I drilled the hole out slightly too large. Therefore, the SRW studs would not work. Going with information I got on this BB, I had the machinist drill everything to 43/64, which was too large.

You can try the Dorman 303 stud, but that is STILL a little too small for a 43/64 hole. It might work with lock tite or something, but I was searching for a better solution. I found it.

If you find that even Dorman 303 is too small, Bicknell Racing Products sells a wheel stud, part number BRP2059, which is 5/8 Course thread, 2.75 inches long, .685 shoulder with a .800 shoulder length. This stud was meant to be used in a hole drilled out to 43/64, which is the exact size of the hole I used, so this is the stud I ended up using, and I can report that it fits quite nicely into a 43/64 hole. They also sell another wheel stud, BRP2075, which is exactly the same, but 3.75 inches long. The shorter stud worked fine in my application, but some people may want more stud sticking out. BRP2051 is the lug nut that matches, but I think any 5/8 course lug nut would work fine.

Hope this helps someone who ends up in the same situation.

Chad

in case no one had looked.. there is a huge artical in the tech page by billvista... id say it covers any thing you would need to know about a d60... including srw/drw diferances, and how to modify the front drw spacers ....:flipoff2:

quick link for the search impaired: d60 bible (http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html)

Actually, part of that article CAME from Chad's experiences and documenting stuff he learned. And now that he has it all sorted out, I have to update the article !

Chad and I are from the same town and wheel together all the time

Originally posted by BillaVista
I too would love a machinest to chime in and let us know what would be standard for a knurled inteference fit like a stud-in-rotor fit.

Thanks Hey bill, if you have a knurle of .615 the hole sould be .600 + - .002. This is what i have found working with new parts. .015 to .013 is what is needed for a good fit. steve differential eng. inc.