My current project has me gathering parts to put a RC60 in the rear of my TJ (RC60 front housing converted to a rear). My concern lies in putting a RC centersection in the rear of a vehicle that sees a LOT of city/highway miles. e.g. WI to Moab and back ... and no, not on a trailer.

Does anyone have any firsthand or good second hand info as to the validity of doing this. I know the concept of RC rearends is nothing new, but I'm concerned about running on the curved side of the teeth for extended periods of time.

cmk

i think that you will eventually have a problem munching gears. like you said, the teeth werent designed to run on that side and i think that the worst thing you could do would be to run them in a situation where there is going to be a lot of acceleration, then deceleration, so that the gears backlash against each other. over time in a daily driver, this is what will destroy geasets, not slowly applied forces at low speeds (crawling).

why do you need the RC rearend anyways, driveshaft angle?

Yulp, I want the high pinion for the d-shaft angle.

Here's the current setup:

http://pages.prodigy.net/coolmank/pics/cmksjeep/flatxmember/001.jpg

The t-case output is way up there.

cmk

Don't f'in worry about it...I MIGHT worry if I was using all of 500hp every day...Day in, day out, year after year...

You won't "munch gearsets" either...9V is cominng from the Land Rover 8.65" ring gear (crap) crowd...Not a fat assed 60 R&P. Besides what choice to you have?

--D

Yeah, you will be using the "coast" side of the gears. How much power can the RCD60 handle? I'm willing to bet a lot more than you are putting to it. Weight on the gearset? A lot less than what they are structered for.
I'm willing to bet that the RCD60 used in a rear application is still a lot stronger than stock.
The only thing I would watch is the oil itself.
I would sample the oil when new, then sample it in 500 miles, then every 1000 fr about 4000 miles.
Synthetic may be the way to go due with a front HP on the rear. See what the oil samples on the mineral oil tell you and go from there.

Don't sweat it, IMO


Also I'm not sure who, but I swear I heard that someone was setting up HP 60 rears using standard cut gears so they could run on the drive side of the tooth for more strength in that application. I might be smoking on this but I swear I read it on this site somewhere :confused:

Originally posted by bigdude
Don't sweat it, IMO


Also I'm not sure who, but I swear I heard that someone was setting up HP 60 rears using standard cut gears so they could run on the drive side of the tooth for more strength in that application. I might be smoking on this but I swear I read it on this site somewhere :confused:

someone said that at erocc..... you must of picked up the same crack pipe... :D

Originally posted by bigdude
Don't sweat it, IMO


Also I'm not sure who, but I swear I heard that someone was setting up HP 60 rears using standard cut gears so they could run on the drive side of the tooth for more strength in that application. I might be smoking on this but I swear I read it on this site somewhere :confused:

Avalanche Eng is working on a high pinion 9" third member that uses standard 9" gears. Maybe this is what you heard.

You're biggest concern is pinion bearing lubrication. If the housing is turned up past 11*, over fill the housing or you will fry those bearings.

Originally posted by cmk
My concern lies in putting a RC centersection in the rear of a vehicle that ...
cmk

What flanges / spindles are you going to use?

Originally posted by onsafari


Avalanche Eng is working on a high pinion 9" third member that uses standard 9" gears. Maybe this is what you heard.

you know I've wondered for a while now, why someone hasn't gotten a hold of a gear cutter, and cut a gear that would work in a reverse cut housing, but with the face and slope on the right side, (I don't think this would have the same shape as a standard cut) for use in rear end applications. It seems basic to me, I can't figure out in this world of $2500 X-cases, and $6000 axles why anyone hasn't tried to market this. Or maybe it's not possible from a maching point of view, but it would seem doable.

Chad

Originally posted by Jaffer
What flanges / spindles are you going to use?

I'm gonna' keep it simple and follow in someone else's footsteps.

http://bc4x4.com/tech/2000/highpiniond60rear/highpiniond60rear.cfm

cm "not a guinea pig" k

I run a RC44 in the rear of my Sami. The only highway problem I've had is puking fluid out the vent. When I asked around, I heard this is common with RC rear axle conversions. Possibly because of the direction of the cut gears slinging the fluid out more/harder or just the fact we run the fluid level high to lube the pinion bearing.....

Originally posted by badassjeepguy


someone said that at erocc..... you must of picked up the same crack pipe... :D

Who was it??? I can't remember but they explained the shop that set it up and how. Sounded like they were serious to me (although maybe just drunk :D)

I drive mine everyday(only rig) for 40 miles a day. I drive it to every trail (4-10 hours away).

I run Power Punch in mine with syn. lube... The Power Punch makes the oil climb and cling. So when the oil does get up to that bearing, it will stick around for a little while.

You could try Moroso Climbing Gear Oil too.

I have been driving this rear for almost 2 years now. I will be driving it 3,000 miles home in September.

I tried over filling mine- It spits out what it does not want.

So if I haven't burnt one up yet, you should be fine.

Mine is a Tera60r... Remember everyone said they burn up, ya I'm proof of that ha?

Originally posted by CHOKEu
...Mine is a Tera60r... Remember everyone said they burn up, ya I'm proof of that ha?

But that housing was made to run in the rear. The Ford RCHP60 wasn't.

that is true dude it was designed for the rear .i will be running the same set-up mpre or less...

front rc 60 from a ford and a rear tera 60r with 14 bolt flanges and hubs and well i am hoping this will work as it too is my DD ...and i definately need a hp rear as my DS angle was sick with the 9" i had before.....

Originally posted by cmk


I'm gonna' keep it simple and follow in someone else's footsteps.

http://bc4x4.com/tech/2000/highpiniond60rear/highpiniond60rear.cfm

cm "not a guinea pig" k

What a waste of an RC 60 dude! If you are worried about the angle of your rear driveshaft why not get a CV shaft from Jess? What about a fixed yoke conversion?

Squash

Originally posted by Realsquash


What a waste of an RC 60 dude! If you are worried about the angle of your rear driveshaft why not get a CV shaft from Jess? What about a fixed yoke conversion?

Squash

Bawahahahahahaha :laughing:

That is not a waste and there are many more benefits to having a RC rear than just your CV angle (like the difficulty in hitting you shaft/ pinion on stuff)

Originally posted by cmk


I'm gonna' keep it simple and follow in someone else's footsteps.

http://bc4x4.com/tech/2000/highpiniond60rear/highpiniond60rear.cfm

cm "not a guinea pig" k

Thanks ...
I'm gonna try it THIS (http://jeepcj.homestead.com/axle.html) way.
No axel shops within 800 miles of here.
Wish us BOTH luck:p

Originally posted by Realsquash
What a waste of an RC 60 dude! If you are worried about the angle of your rear driveshaft why not get a CV shaft from Jess? What about a fixed yoke conversion?

Squash

I already "had" a CV rear shaft as well as the shortest output shaft setup you can put on a 231. I even moved the motor up 1.5" and forward 1" to get all the rear shaft I could. I ended up with a 17.5" rear shaft on a d44'd TJ with 4" coils. That's a mightly long shaft for a moderately modified TJ and I was still darn near maxing out the 1310 joints at normal ride height. 1410's wouldn't even have done me enough good for the droop I'm shooting for.

That's why I want a high pinion setup in the rear, because I need it. What I'm trying to figure out now is if I can hang a standard low pinion d60 and get away with it considering that the rear axle will be getting pushed back about 6" and there's a d300 going in as well. I should end up with a rear shaft around 23". With 4" of lift and the flat tranny mount, I *might* be able to get away with it.

Jaffer, yeah, I saw that writeup as well and I'm considering it. I'm not real keen on the "filler weld" inside the spindles though.

cmk

Hmmm... Seems like a lot of work for 4" of lift! Have you measured the max and min angles through the suspension travel? What do the 23523523588877235 people with the same lift and drivetrain do? There has just got to be a driveshaft that will work!

Still a waste of a good RC60 :) Step up to the plate and get some hybrid mog axles under there, you can get the pinion as high as you want!

OK enough waffle outta me,

Squash

Originally posted by Realsquash
Hmmm... Seems like a lot of work for 4" of lift! Have you measured the max and min angles through the suspension travel? What do the 23523523588877235 people with the same lift and drivetrain do? There has just got to be a driveshaft that will work!

Squash

I have yet to find ONE other person that has done to their TJ's drivetrain what I have done to mine, let alone 23523523588877235 others. I am the be all, end all of TJ drivetrain mods ... barring engine swaps. :D

cmk

Originally posted by cmk


I have yet to find ONE other person that has done to their TJ's drivetrain what I have done to mine, let alone 23523523588877235 others. I am the be all, end all of TJ drivetrain mods ... barring engine swaps. :D

cmk

No shit! I've never seen a belly as flat as yours;)

Originally posted by bigdude


No shit! I've never seen a belly as flat as yours;)

Maybe Mr. Squash doesn't know what real rocks look like?
I't all about high drive shafts and flat bellies, Bubba ... :flipoff2:

This ... (mine) is unacceptable at this time.
It is already CV'd and another fancy drive shaft is not gonna help fix it.
But tweaking the power train position, raising the pinion shaft heights, and building a flat skid will. And that's that.

http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/images/PrincessMTRsBdLocks.jpg