first off, i'm deployed to afghanistan right now, so i can't act on any of this as of right now. i've been deployed since march of 08, and coming home in march of 09. my dilemma is this: i started off a couple years ago with this
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/d6es6tro6y/brownstainorignal.jpg
86 k10, 305/700r4/np208/10b/10b 3.08 gears. i then found a 79 k20 sitting in some old dudes yard, that i bought for $400. out of it came springs/blocks that ended up being about 8" of lift, a set of old long tube headers, and a 10b/14bff in 8 lug, that i never did figure out the ratio of. i put 36/12.5/16.5 hmmwv tires on it, and wheeled it for a while before i deployed.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/d6es6tro6y/truck4.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/d6es6tro6y/truck3.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/d6es6tro6y/truck1.jpg
this is it as it sat before i deployed. so heres the problem. i want a dana 60 for the front, and getting antsy trying to get one sent home so its waiting for me when i get back (i plan on running 39.5"-42" tsl's or iroks as soon as i get back as well) but not knowing the ratio in the rear axle(which i guess is 4.10 or 4.56) i really cant get a 4.56 front and accomplish anything. so i figure maybe just buy a set of cucv axles...which end up being quite a bit of money after shipping and all....but i found this for sale right up the road...an 86 cucv with 39k miles, and could be had for a very resonable price, compared to the price everyone wants for there cucv axles.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p60/d6es6tro6y/CUCV1Small.jpg
yeah i know my k10 sounds shitty cuz of the blocks and huge spring packs, but i plan on removing some leaves and doing a shackle flip, or getting this ugly ass cucv, and bobbing the bed and doing a shackle flip on it and run some 4' lift springs or so in the front, and running some 40's....what should i do? if i was in the states, id figure something out, but i have nothing but time right now, so i value all of your opinions. thanks

buy the cucv and sell your truck to some newb that doesnt know for too much $$:flipoff2:

All i can say is come home safe.

buy the cucv it will have a stronger frame than your half ton and all the good parts you want/need

buy the cucv it will have a stronger frame than your half ton and all the good parts you want/need
i didnt think about the frame being stronger, good point

buy the cucv it will have a stronger frame than your half ton and all the good parts you want/need

also you will have that sweet camo paint job and cow pusher grill to impress the ladies with.

ive always loved the cucv pick up trucks but cant find one with a dang out here

Do the 1009 blazers have a stronger frame too

Nope. Get a CUCV and run it.

any way to tell if its a 1028 or 1008, other than asking the guy to check the tag?

Do the 1009 blazers have a stronger frame too

Nope. Get a CUCV and run it.

Not to jack the thread but I read on here somewhere that the only chevy frames that were different on the 73-87/91 were the 1tons frames and the ones that came with diesels. Is this not true?


To the original question: I would buy the CUCV and swap whatever you wanted off of your old truck to this one and then sell you old truck. It really depends on the condition of each one though.

Built the CUCV, 1 tons and a stronger frame. Probably hydroboost brakes and 4.56 gears too. And they have a nice pintle hitch on the back and good tow points. Just swap the motor and t-case out.

sorry to hi-hack although its semi pertanent, an old timer at the autoparts store told me that the cucv had buick-olds-pontiac bellhousing patern as opposed to a regular chevy small/big block. Is this true?

its the diesel tranny

Get the CUCV.

Alex.

any way to tell if its a 1028 or 1008, other than asking the guy to check the tag?

Not from those pics... check the tag. :D

I'd get the CUCV, and throw a small block in it.

its the diesel tranny

whats special about it though? once again sorry for the hijack...

First; THANK YOU! For your service, I know it's difficult
being so far away from family, friends, and wheeling.

Second; get the cucv, sell the K-10 to finance the 40s.

Third; If you're ever on the left coast, beer & food's on me!

:usa:

sorry to hi-hack although its semi pertanent, an old timer at the autoparts store told me that the cucv had buick-olds-pontiac bellhousing patern as opposed to a regular chevy small/big block. Is this true?

Not true. The CUCVs have the regular TH400 chevy small/big block bellhousing pattern.

whats special about it though? once again sorry for the hijack...

6 bolt torque converter, 6 clutch direct drum? Paging Grumpy.....

The trans is a chevy turbo 400 , but diesels have a special torque converter ,no big deal ,change it to a gas converter if you want a gas engine .

Get the CUCV ,it has all the good stuff you want except the diesel engine ,plus no one mentioned that the rear has a detroit locker and the front likely has a trac-loc diff ,see all the good stuff.

Come home safe ,please!

thanks for the input dudes...the cucv does have everything i need/want, and i can build the lift lower and the right way as opposed to the redneck ass shit i did with the k10. i think i can make the 6.2 work for me too, and swap in a big block after i make the diesel go boom.

The trans is a chevy turbo 400 , but diesels have a special torque converter ,no big deal ,change it to a gas converter if you want a gas engine .

Get the CUCV ,it has all the good stuff you want except the diesel engine ,plus no one mentioned that the rear has a detroit locker and the front likely has a trac-loc diff ,see all the good stuff.

Come home safe ,please!

i don't think the pickups got the trac-loc at all, and not like anyone wants one anyway. that truck will have an open diff up front.

i don't think the pickups got the trac-loc at all, and not like anyone wants one anyway. that truck will have an open diff up front.

That's part of the reason to check if its a 1008 or a 1028

1008 has a 208 t case and an open front diff

1028 has a 205 t case and a Trac-loc in the front

-Dane



D6ES6TRO6Y; Where are you from? Your K15 looks really familiar!

1028 were radio, ambulances and other non pickups.


6.2 is the same bolt patterns as all sbc and bbc.

unless the 6.2 converter has a 3rd bolt patten it will bolt to a sbc bbc.

what is a reasonable price? a front d60 will typicaly cost you 1000+ and a detroit from a 14bff is 450+.

D6ES6TRO6Y; Where are you from? Your K15 looks really familiar!

the truck has been in the clarksville tn area since at least november 06

what is a reasonable price? a front d60 will typicaly cost you 1000+ and a detroit from a 14bff is 450+.

the price the dude is asking is $2500..seems worth it, i get the whole truck instead of just the axles, for about a grand more.

the price the dude is asking is $2500..seems worth it, i get the whole truck instead of just the axles, for about a grand more.

so what are you going to do with the rest?

are you 100% on the short wheel base?
do you want chop the long body and go big tire to equal ou tthe w/b?
do you want a better motor and not a sucha shitty tcase?


$2500 is not a screaming deal by any means, it is a typical $$$. if you are looking to swap the gear into your swb pass, they can be had for much less. if you want to build a new truck and toss your swb by all means it is a good start.

btw, it will have hydro boost brakes too.

so what are you going to do with the rest?

are you 100% on the short wheel base?
do you want chop the long body and go big tire to equal ou tthe w/b?
do you want a better motor and not a sucha shitty tcase?


$2500 is not a screaming deal by any means, it is a typical $$$. if you are looking to swap the gear into your swb pass, they can be had for much less. if you want to build a new truck and toss your swb by all means it is a good start.

btw, it will have hydro boost brakes too.

i do like swb..and if i did get the cucv, id chop the bed...but either way, tire size wouldnt be more than 42"...which brings me to the decision if 4.56 is gonna be low enough for that big of tire, for what i want it for....nasty muddy/gulchy/rooted trails, hills, rocks when i can find them...it will rarely be driven on the road, so im still considering just keeping the k15, but have to get a gear swap done, which would equal out to as much as buying a front and rear already in 4.56...ideally i want 5.13 or .38, but goddamnit i want to wheel the shit out of something as soon as i get back. anyone have any input on 40-42" with 4.56's? thats why id like to get the cucv, just for immediate gratification..have some 40's and a shackle flip and some 4" front springs waiting for me, go pick up the truck, put it all on, and go fuck shit up...but with the k15, im gonna get back, put 40's on it, blow up my 10b in the middle of turkey bay, find a 60, get my 14 and 60 regeared to 5.38...or get a set of cucv's....sorry for the whining, but im sittin here with nothing to do but wish i could wheel something.

Scrap the 208 and put in a 3:1 Lo Max http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/products/lomax205/index.html

Scrap the 208 and put in a 3:1 Lo Max http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/products/lomax205/index.html

my 208 already has 2.6:1, so im not worried about the .4 a lomax would give me...and when my 208 goes out (in whichever rig i choose) ill start with a 205, and eventually go 205/203 doubled. thanks for the input guys.

you are right, it is 2.6:1, and a aluminum chain driven turd that will shit itself and eventualy cost you at least one drive shaft when it does.

you are right, it is 2.6:1, and a aluminum chain driven turd that will shit itself and eventualy cost you at least one drive shaft when it does.

good point

1028's have over load's on the rear springs and trac-locks in the frt

1028's have over load's on the rear springs and trac-locks in the frt

SOME do.

1028 were radio, ambulances and other non pickups.


6.2 is the same bolt patterns as all sbc and bbc.

unless the 6.2 converter has a 3rd bolt patten it will bolt to a sbc bbc.

what is a reasonable price? a front d60 will typicaly cost you 1000+ and a detroit from a 14bff is 450+.

My experience is with a 1028 shelter carrier, but I'm sure some carries to 1008's and others.

I gutted an M1028 for my K5. Here's a few facts from my build.

The 400 is the same. It has a 6 bolt converter, but it will line up on a standard small block fly wheel. Get three bolts and you're good to go. The stall speed is the same, and the tranny was visually the same as any I've been in. The bellhousing pattern is the same.

Some 1028's got trac loks in front. Not all. Some were pickups, they were shelter carriers. I can get some pictures if you'd like. Mine had the trac lok. It works well for what it is, but I'm not counting on it to be there for me if I need it. Cross members are different also, as the 1 ton diesel frame was a lot bigger.

The Military trucks have some interesting tie down and recovery points, I pulled some off that one and adapted them to my K5.

I'm running 38.5 boggers on the 4.56's. My truck has a throttle bodied 383. Its pretty tired, but it will still motivate them alright. Anything bigger I'd be looking for more gear. There isn't anywhere it cant spin the tires in low. The detroit works well.

If you've got any more questions I read a little and learned a lot. I dont know everything about these trucks, but I did deal with a lot of it. Feel free to ask me or PM me. Hope this helps.

Buy the cucv. Run the 6.2 till it goes. Hell you've been on Deployment for a long time buy a ram jet 502 and a 4 speed atlas! 52's up front shackle flip and 63's out back hack the fenders bob the bed and run some 42's.

get a truck from travis afb, one of the guys i know here at beale got one for $500 bucks and we drove it one the trailer

Yeah check out govliquidation.com, some decent deals, I know someone who got a m1009? (k5) with 7,000 miles for like 1900.

And lots of rigs that are listed as "won't start", and I'm figuring they are just getting rid of them and dont care...so probably some more $$$ off the price.

I just recently completed a big block swap into a 1008 CUCV.

Keep the NP208, they are stronger than many people give them credit. I ran one for 5 years with a mildly built big block, 4 speed, and cut 44" boggers on my cab truck.