YES I searched for 2 nights.

I know for certain the info is there and Im sure I read it 50 times. Im just having trouble deciphering it all.

Can someone just straighten this all out for me.

I have an 86 CUCV. I want to remove the 208 case and install a 205.

What exactly do I need ???


Grumpyoldfarts Post was great but somehow with all the info there for every case and trans ever made my brain seems to scramble it all together. Im hitting the yards today need to know what exactly what I need. I dont want to end up with a garage full of parts.

Pics are always great. hint.hint...

NO IM NOT A NOOB. I just usually find what I need by searching and dont post much. LOL:flipoff2:

you need a different trans or different output shaft.... i tried to do the exact same thing using the figure 8 np205... the adapter is thicker then the one for the np208 and the output shaft doesnt reach the transfer case

IF you can find a round pattern, late model chevy 205, you could drill and tap the case to fit your current adapter. Good luck finding one...

The output shaft on the tranny is not long enough to use the fig 8 adapter and fig 8 case. So if you had those parts, you would need to tear the tranny down to replace with the appropriate lenght tranny shaft

The info is there, you just need to slow down and read it.

np208 case... you need a short input shaft for np205, and a round faced case for passenger drop, ford case for drivers drop.

GM round face cases (not racetrack pattern) do not come with the short input shaft, they come with the long input shaft.

simply swap input, bolt it together, and go.


or somethin like that. your mileage may vary, you competence level may not be as high as the next guy, your iq may not allow for completion due to a deficiency.

JJ, sent you a message on Planet as well. I have got what you need!

From ORD, details the differences clearly and concisely.

GM TH400 Automatic Transmission:
If you have a TH400, there are three options for mating the 203 to your trans.

1: Use a factory configuration. The TH400 was available with the NP203 in heavier duty trucks (3/4 and 1-ton generally) in approximately '78-'79. The factory configuration uses a 1 3/8" stickout 32 spline shaft in the TH400, a 32 spline input gear in the NP203 and a 1.1" adapter plate between the two, somewhat similar to the TH350 adapter plate. This is the shortest way to mate the TH400 and NP203.

2: Use a TH400 that originally had an NP208 mated to it. This TH400 uses a 32 spline shaft that sticks out of the case about 2.5" and has an adapter housing that's about 2.5" thick. You'll use a TH400 version 32 spline input gear in the NP203 and re-drill and tap the face of the NP203 with the round bolt pattern to match up to the NP208 adapter housing. Benefits of this kit are the parts are quite common since the NP208 was very widely used with TH400 trannies. The drawback is the adapter is about 1.5" longer than the shorter factory configuration.

3: Use a TH400 that originally had a NP205 behind it. This TH400 uses a 32 spline shaft that sticks out about 4.5". You'll need to use a factory TH400 to round pattern NP205 adapter housing that is 4" thick and once again, re-drill the front face of the NP203 to match the round pattern. The input gear will be the TH400 version NP203 32 spline input. Drawbacks to this system are the overall length with the 4" housing between the two and the expense of buying the factory housing. They're not common as used parts and typically must be purchased new. ORD can supply this adapter.

get the round 205, swap the input for a short 32 spline (figure 8 205 to TH400 costs @ $120 from ORD), cut a notch in your adapter for the 205 shift rail, southern engineer a shifter, and bolt it up

This is from the high-impact site. For some reason ( at least to me ) its alot easier to understand than the posts I found while searching here.

It helped me so Ill post it here for others to find.



Bolt Pattern:

All GM NP205 cases 1971-1985 had a 8 bolt "racetrack" bolt pattern

All GM NP205 Cases 1986-up had a 6 bolt circular bolt pattern

Input Spline: GM Used four different input shaft configurations on these cases.

10 spline: (1971-85) The most common were units supplied with a 4 speed which typically had a 10 spline male input shaft.



27 spline: (1971-79) The units supplied with a T350 automatic have a 27 spline male input shaft.



32 spline (Short); 32 spl (Long): The units supplied with a T400 Automatic (also SM465 86-up) have a 32 spline female input. We have seen both a short (about 1.5 to 2.0" stickout) and long (more like 3-3.5" stickout) versions of this gear. This gear is directly compatible with the Klune-V Extreme Underdrive, which can be supplied with a 32 spline output shaft. Longer spacers are required with the long input.



Also see data on swapping input gears lower on this page.

1979 to 1985 GM NP205: 8 bolt "racetrack" bolt pattern:

During these years, the GM NP205 showed up behind Turbo 400 and SM465 Transmissions in 1 Ton trucks only.. 1/2 and 3/4 T trucks began to be supplied with the NP208 instead. SM465 units will still typically use the 10 spline input. Turbo 400 units have the stout 32 spline female input (in most cases the short 32 spl input, about 1.5-2.0" stickout) however still uses the 8 bolt "racetrack" bolt pattern.

1986 and Later GM NP205: 6 Bolt circular bolt pattern:
At this point GM updated the unit to use the same 6 bolt circular bolt pattern used on the NP208, and all subsequent GM full size 4x4 truck applications. All of them are the 32 spline female input, although those we have seen are the long (about 3.5" stickout) 32 spl input.

Front Output
GM used two front output shaft configurations, one had a spline count of 10, the other was a 30 spline. 10 splines came before 1977 (roughly) 30 spline shafts came after 1977 (again, roughly). One quick way to tell them apart is by the fact that 10 splines came with a 1310 series yoke output, capable of accepting a CV or yoke driveshaft. 30 spline shafts came with the flat flange on the output, capable of accepting the GM 3R series CV joint.

The 10 spline output will accept the stock 1310; Or a separately purchased 1330 or 1350 Spicer u-joint yoke, and the 1310 CV yoke. The 30 spline flange will accept the 1330 or 1350 CV joints.

Rear Output
The most popular version Is a 32 spline shaft / fixed yoke and will accept a 1310, 1330, or 1350 u-joint yoke, and the 1310 CV yoke.

Some were slip yoke, with a longer tailhousing.



Ford New Process 205 Transfer Case



NP205 Ford



The Ford NP205 transfer case uses the 6 bolt circular bolt pattern . It has a left hand drop (driver's side). It is supplied with a 31 spline female input.



Rear Output
Is a 32 spline shaft and will accept a 1310, 1330, or 1350 u-joint yoke, and the 1310 CV yoke.

Front Output


Is customarily a 32 spline shaft, same as the rear with interchangeable yokes.



Dodge NP205 Transfer Case
The Dodge NP205 transfer cases are mostly an 8 bolt pattern like the early Chevy. Some late units had the 6 bolt circular pattern. These units all have a right hand drop. Most are supplied with a 23 spline male input shaft and used with a coupler.



29 Spline Dodge: There is a fairly rare 29 spline NP205 used in Dodge trucks behind the Getrag 5 speed. The NP205 used behind automatics are all 23 spline, even in the 1 Ton Cummins apps.



Later applications of this case appear to use a short adapter to bolt to the front of the Tcase, and has the 6 bolt circular pattern found on the transmission tailhousing adapter. This adapter also functions as a bearing retainer in the front of the Tcase and carries the input seal. The casting used for the 23 spline input is different than the one used for the 29 spline, due to the larger bearing and seal. The 23 spline part CAN be machined out to accept the 29 spline parts, but with TLC as it does not leave much meat in some places. These adapters seem to be kinda hard to find on the boneyard circuit, and are apparently no longer available new from Dodge.



Also see data on swapping input gears lower on this page.



Divorced NP 205 Transfer cases (Dodge – Ford – Chevy)
Are the same as the corresponding married (Married = bolts to directly to the trans), however, divorced units are mounted on their own crossmember separate from the trans. They have a yoke type input, and are coupled to the trans with a short (1-2') driveshaft



Ford NP205 Divorced


Transfer Case Specifications:
Low Range reduction ratio: 1.96:1
Transfer Case Overall Length : approx 14”
Front offset distance (Distance from center of input shaft to center of front output shaft) appx 9.75"

(measured from bolt-up surface to U-joint center in Rear yoke)

Swapping input gears in NP205s
Dodge, Ford and GM input gears are all internally interchangeable in all NP205s with one MAJOR detail:



GM 27 and 10sp, and Dodge 23 spl all used a SMALL dia input bearing and seal. These shafts can be swapped directly among themselves.



GM32, Ford 31 and Dodge 29 spl used a LARGER dia bearing. These shafts can be swapped among them selves directly



If you want to upgrade an NP205 with a 10,27 or 23 spl input to a 29, 31 or 32 spl input: The case must be fully disassembled and the opening where the input bearing sits must be machined out to accept the larger dia bearing. A larger seal is also used. The adapter or bearing retainer must fit the Larger dia bearing.



Twin-Stick operation for a 205
The 205 can be twin-sticked much in the same manner as a Dana 300 and other gear drive transfer cases.

There is an internal interlock shuttle pin inside the unit that must be removed:

The transfer case must be disassembled to where the shift rails can be removed. In the front, in the bosses where the shift rails come out, there are detent springs and balls on both shift rails. Also, inside, in between the shift rails, is a shuttle pin that slides back and forth between the shift rails in order to properly sequence shifting for a single stick operation. This shuttle pin will not allow full twin stick operation, and must be removed. You want to keep the detent springs and balls. For full Tcase disassembly info and diagrams, refer to a rebuild manual for the case.

Externally, it is simply a matter of rigging a system that will operate each shift lever independently.

Twin Sticking a 205 when using a Klune underdrive:
The inner shift rail is located inside the front mounting bolt circle: In some cases (such as a Klune underdrive) the housing of the gearbox does not allow a linkage rod to be directly connected to the rail. In this case, it is possible to built a lever system to couple in the twin stick. We did this on a Bronco I had. Unfortunately, I have no pictures of this to publish. I will attempt to describe in words how I made my 205 twin stick work: I made a bracket that botls to the two bolt holes on the outer end of the 205. I ran an lever arm to the inner shift rail which pivots off this bkt. I attached the rod from the inner shifter stick to this lever arm about 1.5" out from the shifter rail.

was reading through this for some info and wanted to see if anyone could verfiy something for me.

My Application:

I have a th400 mated to a dana 20 TC. After some mods to the vehicle height, the output on the dana 20 hits the transmission pan. this is bad. So I went out an found a NP205 mated to a th400 in a junk yard. jackpot! The problem - the adapter was cracked. I need an adapter, but I want to index the transmission at a different angle than stock. my fab guy called Advance, but they don't sell a 6 bolt np205 to th400 adapter, so they sent me a th400 to dana 30 and then cut the bolt pattern in it for me. Unfortunately, they indexed it the wrong way... but that's neither her nor there. At this point I figure that I have 2 known options, and a 3rd possible option that one of you clever guys may have.

1. Make this adpater work... drill the new hole pattern, cut the shift rail notches, hope the gaskets fit, and then fab up something to hold bolt the shifter to. This option, while requiring alot of work, appeals to me, b/c if I clock the transfer case down a few degrees, then the shifters would be clocked toward the passenger seat a little if i had to use the bolt hole of a stock adapter... so this way I could place the shifters wherever I wanted...

2. Find another adapter that requires less custom fab work... that led me here. From the reading, here and elsewhere, it looks like the 6 bolt 205 and the 6 bolt 208 have the same bolt pattern, and cutouts... but might be different lengths. I have the long output shaft 32 spline 205... does anyone know if the long spline will fit the 208 adapter? Might be a little less work to just do that, and I think I should be able to send this adapter back to advance and swap for less than the cost of a new adapter... fingers crossed.

3. Thoughts?

Here are two pictures, they show my stock adapter and the swiss cheese thing that Advance sent me.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h6/blarson04/willys/IMG_1727.jpg

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h6/blarson04/willys/IMG_1721.jpg

Thoughts on making it work?

Thanks!

bump :-)

Twin-Stick operation for a 205
The 205 can be twin-sticked much in the same manner as a Dana 300 and other gear drive transfer cases.

There is an internal interlock shuttle pin inside the unit that must be removed:

The transfer case must be disassembled to where the shift rails can be removed. In the front, in the bosses where the shift rails come out, there are detent springs and balls on both shift rails. Also, inside, in between the shift rails, is a shuttle pin that slides back and forth between the shift rails in order to properly sequence shifting for a single stick operation. This shuttle pin will not allow full twin stick operation, and must be removed. You want to keep the detent springs and balls. For full Tcase disassembly info and diagrams, refer to a rebuild manual for the case.

Externally, it is simply a matter of rigging a system that will operate each shift lever independently.



Not the truth at all... I refer you to this:
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=572617&highlight=cheap

Well - after more examination and work... the thing Advance sent me is pretty bad. The counterbore, counterbore depth and thru hole are all the wrong dimensions, and unfortunately, they are too small in all of them. Bottom line - it will not fit the 205 no way no how.

So I'm looking to get a replacement OEM adapter (which seem to be rare as f**k, tho never understood that analogy) OR design a new one completey from scratch, take the engineering work to the machine shop and have them cut me one. I'm thinking I might just cut a handfull and sell the rest, since i'll be optimizing the original design as well as using aluminum, it might be something a few people will want these, plus I'll probably leave off the hole pattern to the 205, so that it can be indexed to whatever angle someone might need.

Shoot me a PM if you are interested.