i just got a f350 with a 460 auto with 145 on it, it has 33's on it now with a dana 80 rear out of a dully and 60 front. truck runs good my buddy bought it for the dump body that was on it then i got it the frame is cut after the springs so now it only has 1 gas tank i was going to build a flat bed for it but where do i start to make it trail ready i was thing a high steer with all new front end parts and universals............ what should i do and what brands should i buy?? trying to keep this a budget build i can get my hands on some 35's and 39's ill try to post pics in the am

First, slow down. Second, learn to use punctuation. Lastly, there is a newbie section for a reason.:shaking:

yeh im not a good speller but i thought i got the point across.:D i figured i would ask the real ford guys insted of the newbe section:D

You are just setting yourself up to get flamed. Be more specific with your questions. For example, what are you going to use this truck for?

im looking to drive it on the street to the local trails and to trailer it to far trails just dont want it to brake down

i too am looking to drive on the street and some local trails and tralier to further away spots without breaking. i currently am putting rockwells under it and will probably still break. not breakin is a tall order. good luck:evil:

I agree, if you aint breaken then you aint wheelin.

What year is the truck? Also, what suspension setup do you plan on running?

ok let me reword it...... i know things are going to brake what is a week point on these trucks?? i want to replace all the universals what ones are the best???? what do i need for a high steer for this truck?? or cross over steering??

the truck is a 1990 std cab auto with a 460 in it

ok let me reword it...... i know things are going to brake what is a week point on these trucks??

The loose nut behind the wheel!!:shaking:

You are going to need high steer arms, DOM tubing, tube adapters, and rod ends. Are you going to run ball joints or heim joints?

Ok, this fawking abortion of a thread should be buried....

You have an f-350. Awesome.

That auto will die when wheeled. Get a cooler, a big one.

Get some gears for the axles. 4.56 / 35-37" tire - 4.88 / 38-42" tire.

Shackle flip the rear springs with front hangers.

Get some soft 5" front springs.

Go wheel the fawking thing.

That is a basic trail set up. And honestly.... If you have all these questions, that will be more than enough truck to get you into enough trouble to start learning.

Shackle flip the rear springs with front hangers.





i understand the rear shackel flip and use front hangers??? and that should give me 5 inch of lift to match 5 inch front springs???

i wanted to use tie rod ends not heim joints i heard the chevy ones are stronger

Now we're talking.

Yes, the shackle flip will give you 4.5 to 5"s on stock springs.

For the steering, stay a long way away from heims. They are illegal for street use, and most parts stores dont stalk them... Chevy one ton tre's are strong and available everywhere.

You can get high steer arms from Sky's. They are stout and worth the money.

ok sound good but im still not understanding flip shackle in rear with front hangers?? and 5 inch spring in front

you get an extra set of rear leaf spring "front hangers" and move them to the rear, with the original shackle.

do you have the 4 spd auto - or the 3 spd ?


id get some 5.13 gears - weld the rear. leave the font open, or add lunchbox locker. get some used 4" lift front springs. as you can fit 35s on a stock f350 with a bumper trim, id keep the springs flat for flex and ride. then cut the fenders. run 39s -42s

in the rear id flip the shackle - and wheel the piss out of it


the weak link will be the front axle u joints / 30 spline outers - tranny ( if the 4 spd auto - in factory form ) - and then the body :flipoff2:

how would i tell what trans i have??? i think it is a c6? with overdrive it has a button for overdrive

Not a C-6 then.

And I'd leave the front end open for now. Less chance of breaking stuff, and you'll still be able to get in plenty of trouble with just the rear locked.

In a 90 f-350, it should be an AOD. Still needs a big ass cooler.

In a 90 f-350, it should be an AOD. Still needs a big ass cooler.

With the push button isn't it the e40d?

I might be a bit retarded tonight...:flipoff2:

In that case it should be scrapped asap. Fawking garbage tranny.

My last on cost me 5k and lasted 6 months.

With the push button isn't it the e40d?

I'm almost positive that it is a E40D.

no AOD behind a BB


and the e40d is a good trans, just has to be done right the first time. get a big ass cooler, and good synthetic fluid, and a temp gauge - anything near 230 for an extended time should be avoided


and yes on the open front ( keeps the broken parts down )

so how do i tell what tranny is in it????

http://www.baumannengineering.com/alphabet.htm <<<< copy, paste

4th tranny from the bottom. Says E4OD was in trucks in 89' and up.

"Full-size trucks first received the huge E4OD (Electronic 4 speed OverDrive) transmission in 1989. Internally, it is essentially a C-6 with overdrive added to the front (such as the A4LD is to the C-3) and an EEC controlled valve body."

my head = :nuke:

there is 20 bolts on the pan so it is the 4eod??? and if it do this shackle flip in the rear and 4 inch spring in the front will i need longer drive shafts ??? i also have 4 inch lift springs from a 87 chevy 3500 are they good for anything i will make new mounts if it will work??

Your reading comprehension sucks. Four different people have said it is the E4OD, and I'm betting they're right. Follow the link that blthomas posted, and you can find out for yourself.

my head = :nuke:

x2

ok so is it a good trans or junk and are the chevy springs i was talking about good for somthing or just boat ankers

and if it is junk what can i do to make it better and please dont tell me to get a trans cooler i know that already

and if it is junk what can i do to make it better and please dont tell me to get a trans cooler i know that already

Get two transmission coolers.:laughing:

and if it is junk what can i do to make it better and please dont tell me to get a trans cooler i know that already

no AOD behind a BB


and the e40d is a good trans, just has to be done right the first time. get a big ass cooler, and good synthetic fluid, and a temp gauge - anything near 230 for an extended time should be avoided


and yes on the open front ( keeps the broken parts down )

Do you even read the responses?:confused:

No. He just likes to post.

fuck the chevy springs, get the bolt in ford ones - chevys could be made to work - but why ? it wont have the same amount lift, and it would require more work than its worth


and yes the tranny is a good tranny. in early factory form they had a reputation of burning up early when abused ( but so did the first chevy and dodge 4 spds ) they later changed the pump and internals ( mid 94-95 ) to an upgraded style.

replace whatever cooler is in the grill with at least one big B&M supercooler ( like the 26k gvw ) but id use two. use some synthetic fluid. it costs more but has better heat dissipating and lubricating properties, it also dosent break down as fast when subjected to high temps. get a shift kit, soft shifts kill autos.

its hard to think the tranny is original if the truck has been worked. upgrade it and dont worry about it

thank you for the responce....... and do i need longer drive shafts with the perch flip for the rear? i think i do but just want to make sure

First step is having the budget to spend $4,000-5,000 over the build time, and the garage and tools to complete a build.

Second.. 35" tires are too small fir a big truck like that, so think more about 38" TSLs or 39.5 Iroks or something.

Axles/gears: If it has IFS Dana 50 front, you'll need to score a Dana 60 straight axle. The rear dually axle will have to be replaced. It's to narrow.
So plan on spending $1,000-1500 on different axles, and another $1,500 to rebuild them.

You'll need good soft lift coils.
Youll need to custom fab your radius arms. Extending them to be much longer and mounting with johnny joints at the back. Frame mounts also need welded on.

Steering? Big tie rod and beefy ends. Drop Pitman?

Rock sliders?

The back? Biggest question and Options?
Truggy? What wheelbase? 4 Link? Keep the leafs?
Chopping & shortening the frame?

There's a lot to do, and decide upon?
And you'll need thousands of dollars.

Choose exactly what you want it to look like..
Then start planning, researching, building and ordering.

Oh, hopefully you have a decent garage, welder, about 6 big jackstands
& a full supply of tools.

Good luck.

Start researching!

tools are not a problem have plasma cutter torch welder all kinds of fab stuff execpt a bender it just knowing what works and what dosent.. i would like to move the rear axle foward a little but i dont know about the drive shaft angles????? it already has a dana 60 in the front and i think a 80 in the rear im not sure it has realy long studs and if you stand back the rear wheels are in a tiny bit narower that the front i was going to start with a high steer for the front and go from there.

First step is having the budget to spend $4,000-5,000 over the build time, and the garage and tools to complete a build.

Second.. 35" tires are too small fir a big truck like that, so think more about 38" TSLs or 39.5 Iroks or something.

Axles/gears: If it has IFS Dana 50 front, you'll need to score a Dana 60 straight axle. The rear dually axle will have to be replaced. It's to narrow.
So plan on spending $1,000-1500 on different axles, and another $1,500 to rebuild them.

You'll need good soft lift coils.
Youll need to custom fab your radius arms. Extending them to be much longer and mounting with johnny joints at the back. Frame mounts also need welded on.

Steering? Big tie rod and beefy ends. Drop Pitman?

Rock sliders?

The back? Biggest question and Options?
Truggy? What wheelbase? 4 Link? Keep the leafs?
Chopping & shortening the frame?

There's a lot to do, and decide upon?
And you'll need thousands of dollars.

Choose exactly what you want it to look like..
Then start planning, researching, building and ordering.

Oh, hopefully you have a decent garage, welder, about 6 big jackstands
& a full supply of tools.

Good luck.

Start researching!


Did you bother to read anything that was said?? 85% percent of your "Big Man" speech is useless.

Did you bother to read anything that was said?? 85% percent of your "Big Man" speech is useless.

X2. He specifically stated that this was going to be a budget build. Not a $4000 to $5000 dollars project. That speech was useless!:shaking:

yes i would rather spend 4 hours fabing somthing to fit than buy a 300 part that bolts right it

with a 4" you "shouldnt" need shafts. with a 6" and decent travel you might need longer. keep it low and cut the fenders

x's 2....



exactly what he said.

ok im trying to post pics but it wont work