or do I need to use a "special" ring gear bolt with the larger head, or whatever it is that is different about them?

I am doing thick gears and need bolts, so I got grade 8s at the bolt depot to set it up, and am wondering if I have to order special ones for a buck fifty a piece or if I can run these.

The ones i took out had a larger head, and a built in washer.

Jerry

If you use the proper bolts, you won't have to worry about too much or too little thread.


Ring gear bolts I'm used to have no washer or built-in washer.


Would help to know what your working on.

If you use the proper bolts, you won't have to worry about too much or too little thread.


Ring gear bolts I'm used to have no washer or built-in washer.


Would help to know what your working on.

Ahhh, I forgot my info is not in my sig over here (in BB withdrawals).

I have a dana 44, I geared up to thick 4.10's. Had to drill the carrier. The old bolts were 3/8 fine thread, 7/8" underhead length. So I went to the store and got 7/16" grade 8s of the same length.

They dont have the oversized (and thinner) head. All grade 8s have the flat shoulder under the head (like a built in washer) but the head is alot smaller on the regular ones.

Then I look at like ARP's and they have a small head but have the 12 point socket head, like all ARPs. I assume they are stronger, fine, but the head did not look bigger.

Other thing is the only ones I could get were plated, not oil black. I cant imagine that hurts the bolt (plating).

Just wondering if people have used them before or if I should wait a week on the build for ten bolts to come in the mail. Cant find them local anywhere, hence the ones I bought to set it up.

Thanks

Jerry
79 Traveler
345
D44 F/R

Mr Gasket Ring Gear Bolts, are available in stock OEM lengths or in special lengths for use with Mr.Gasket ring gear spacers. These bolts are heat treated to Grade 8 for maximum strength. All bolts are plated black.

Is the diameter of the shank the same on the old ones as the new? Will the thicker head on the new bolts cause interference with the housing or? Was it that much easier to make an account here than to use google?

.

Is the diameter of the shank the same on the old ones as the new? Will the thicker head on the new bolts cause interference with the housing or? Was it that much easier to make an account here than to use google?

It's easier to suckle on the teat of Pirate4x4.

It is Tuesday.

And for the record why the heck is "It must be Tuesday..." always posted into an awesome thread like this??

It's easier to suckle on the teat of Pirate4x4.

Pirate has the bestest teats of any offroad forum :grinpimp:

some are reverse thread so that could be tricky to find

I thought reverse threads meant you were trying to take them off:confused::flipoff2:
Maybe you could use lower grade bolts like a grade 2 as a safety, so you would shear all them off instead of snapping an axleshaft? Is it going to be Tuesday every day until the other board gets up?

I thought reverse threads meant you were trying to take them off:confused::flipoff2:
Maybe you could use lower grade bolts like a grade 2 as a safety, so you would shear all them off instead of snapping an axleshaft? Is it going to be Tuesday every day until the other board gets up?

Yes.... it's Perma-tuesday.

I have a dana 44, I geared up to thick 4.10's. Had to drill the carrier. The old bolts were 3/8 fine thread, 7/8" underhead length. So I went to the store and got 7/16" grade 8s of the same length.

in that case, buy the proper bolts. That's the safest way. For a trail rig, 'meh, probably would be fine, but on the road, with OTHER's safety in mind, buy the right part.

They dont have the oversized (and thinner) head. All grade 8s have the flat shoulder under the head (like a built in washer) but the head is alot smaller on the regular ones.

find a new hardware supplier. TONS of grade 8's available with out the built in "washer". That's the more common way.

ummm, yah, so I have googled, searched, etc. I even downloaded dimensional and strength data on grade 8 bolts trying to see if there might be a difference, or to find the spec on this app. I assume that these car makers are buying their bolts from a source, not custom designing fasteners.

just cause i am new here does not make me a Noob, thanks anyway.

i know ring gear bolts are grade 8. I know some of them have larger heads. some have serrated faces under the head. some do not.

the 3/8's ones i took out had a larger than normal head. I bought 10 standard grade 8s, in 7/16, after drilling the carrier. they fit/clear etc no problem. They are the same length, i would assume the same strength. However, they have a standard size head, and no serrations, etc. Size is not the issue.

I have not done a R/P setup before, and I have heard of people having ring gear bolts walk out (from lack of locktight one would assume). Sooo, I am wondering if these special style bolts are so critical that I have to freaking mail order the stupid things and wait for UPS to pick a day with nice weather to deliver to my house on the mountain in vermont, etc. etc. or just buy the freaking off the shelfers and get back to driving.

I posted here to tap into the real world experience of guys who do R/Ps alot and take the covers off alot and look things over alot, etc. etc. to see if its generally accepted or if its critical to get these special ones they charge so much for and that no one stocks.

Alrighty then.

J

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Is the diameter of the shank the same on the old ones as the new? Will the thicker head on the new bolts cause interference with the housing or? Was it that much easier to make an account here than to use google?

No, shank is BIGGER. As I said, had you read it, I had to go from 3/8 to 7/16, thus the shank is now...well, 7/16.

They dont hit, the size is correct. I was concerned about them walking out or failing under some other scenario.

Thanks for the helpful tip though. How do you spell google again? Just so I dont forget in the future?

J

in that case, buy the proper bolts. That's the safest way. For a trail rig, 'meh, probably would be fine, but on the road, with OTHER's safety in mind, buy the right part.



find a new hardware supplier. TONS of grade 8's available with out the built in "washer". That's the more common way.

Yah all grade 8's have the shoulder "flat" or "washer". Its part of the grade 8 spec. Difference with some ring gear heads is that they are larger or the head is serrated. No local supplier has them, having checked them all. I was trying to avoid a long mail order delay etc. etc. for a freaking bolt.

This is a daily driver.

I guess no one has run into this problem before. People must re-use the old ring gear bolts alot, or these thick gears are just not that common of a project.

Thanks.

J

First off there's no problem reusing ring gear bolts, they're not torque to yield. Yes I have used aftermarket bolts before with no issues just haven't tried it on a 44. On the other hand I've had the "proper" bolts fail after being torqued to spec and red locktighted......These days for extreme use applications I use aftermarket or OEM bolts and red locktight as well as lockwire them.

Pirate has the bestest teats of any offroad forum :grinpimp:

TOGTFO?



:laughing: