Hey guys
I was looking at these targets and I wanted to build one
http://www.reactiontargets.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=3&category_id=2&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=31

The trip mechanism is fairly simple and I got some free time at school so I figured I would try to build one.

Anyone done this? Any tips or tricks?

Edit: would 3/8 be too thick for a .22 cal

Just take a look at one in a store and play with it. Once you see how they work from the side it should be really easy to make one. It's all about figuring out the balancing point for the round to have enough energy to flip the targets.

I tried to take a pic of one last month when I was at a range.
All the targets hung down from a rod. When you hit them, they swung up and latched on crude latch on another rod. The last target was solidly attached to the second rod, when you shot it, it swung, rotating the rod and releasing the other targets.
Super simple.

I'll see if I can find a pic on the net showing how it was built.

Would 3/8th be too thick and heavy? I wouldnt mind replacing the plates but I would like to get at least 500 rounds at it before I do.
I'm thinking that I might have to find some 1/4 inch plate instead.

Here is an interesting page with a bunch of different reactive targets.

http://www.6mmbr.com/reactivetargets.html

Would 3/8th be too thick and heavy? I wouldnt mind replacing the plates but I would like to get at least 500 rounds at it before I do.
I'm thinking that I might have to find some 1/4 inch plate instead.

There is one at my family's property. I would say its more like 3/16 and 1/8
________
LIVE SEX WEBSHOWS (http://livesexwebshows.com/)

Mild steel will work for 22 and light pistols.
If you want to shoot anything bigger, you need armor steel (you can buy at local steel shop).

3/8 Will last forever if shot with .22s

Problem is the heavy target will have to be perfectly balanced for a .22 to kill it, and then you'll have problems with wind dropping it.

Personally, I'd think more along the lines of a bunch of 3/8 steel plates on small stands or stakes, and just hit them with a shot of white paint. The gray splotch of the round landing can be seen 30 yards away. ;)

Thanks for the replies guys, I think I might make one out of 1/4 inch plate and one out of 3/8 then go shoot the crap out of them. That way whatever one is better I only have to make one more of.

Edit: I was thinking 2 1/2 inch circle at 25 yards, Is that unreasonable or should I go bigger? Nothing big is going to be shot at it, just a couple old cooey .22s

we've built several of these "type" targets...

From what we've learned about them, I'd say getting them to work reliably w/ a .22 would be tough.....OR if built light enough to set w/ .22, you'd better be damn sure none of you buddys shoot it w/ anything bigger.

ours our set up for shooting w/ handguns.....a good strike w/ 9mm will set them most of the time....and they are pretty reliable w/ .40 or .45.


they've been rebuilt lots of times though, as beers/bordum/out-of-ammo often brings out bigger/faster munitions....and they get beat up fast.

--B

we have made several targets, even some bells...I will try to get some photos this weekend when we go out again...

I scored some 3/16 plate so im gonna make up a couple of targets this weekend and i'll post pics monday

Any other pictures or ideas would be great
Thanks guys

This is what I have so far, I am going to test it tonight to see if it will spin the targets with the .22

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0186.jpg

Targets are three inches across

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0187.jpg



http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0188.jpg

I know the base is ugly but it still needs more added to it, and some paint wouldn't hurt. :D

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0189.jpg

Don't shoot that with anything larger than a .22

One good hit on those collars with the set-screw would probably crimp 'em down so tight you'd have to cut it apart. And a hit on the outer sleeved tubing will dent it badly enough that it would never spin again.

If I were planning on shooting those with anything bigger than a .22 I'd rig up a guard in front of the pivot somehow, made from plate steel, to protect it.

I've seen a couple of these 'auto reset target' threads recently. My shop did a bunch of tig for a friend of mine that manufactures targets for the military & ranges. I'm sure this is out of the desired price range, but you might get some ideas from Harry's stuff.

http://www.elitetargetsystems.com

So I made so progress, changed things a little bit

It is leaned ahead a bit, that needs to be fixed and it has to be painted
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0223.jpg

Targets down
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0224.jpg

Targets up
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0225.jpg

Brace
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0226.jpg

After about 100 shots each
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0227.jpg

Hit them dead center and they will spin twice :D
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0228.jpg

I was thinking of adding two stabilizers at the front
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0229.jpg


http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0230.jpg

All folded up
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll258/big_giant_head/SANY0231.jpg