Whats the ID on these tubes?

I have emails stentube.com about placing an order but have not heard back.

Thinking about just getting some DOM and printing out the templates and doing it myself.

Figure on one of the Stens I should use an ACE pig nose mount so that I can use an AR collabsible stock and weld on a couple feet of rail, through an eotech on it, paint it black and sell it on ARFCom for a couple grand :flipoff2:

Whats the ID on these tubes?

I'll measure when I get home tonight, but it should be somewhere on the web already:confused:

Sirch noob!!

:flipoff2:

I ordered the MKIII vented from HERE (http://www.stenparts.com/index.html). I called and ordered and the dood seemed like a nice guy. He was telling me about those fiddys he sells. I bet you could call and get a bit of info.

Just call noob:shaking:


:flipoff2:

I think the ATF requires you to use a smaller ID tube for a legal semi build. That way, you cannot put a full auto bolt in.

I think the ATF requires you to use a smaller ID tube for a legal semi build. That way, you cannot put a full auto bolt in.



Pretty much.



I'm on a group buy that just wrapped up over on the weapons guild for a reduced ID Suomi receiver. Once it gets here, I may start building it. It is very similar dimensionally as a Sterling and Sten.

1.375 for original.



Also from what I can tell you can use the original size tube but you have to have a welded in doodad that prevents the use of original bolt.

I bought a MKIII Sten kit from Copes.... This will be my first true "build" from a parts kit. :shaking:

Anyone here tackled it yet and done a write up. Searching on vacation from my mobile phone brings the suck....

1.500 outside diameter with a .058 wall

I still havent decided on if I want to do an 80% tube or just make my own.

I have enough Suomi barrels and the lathe so will probably just use those.

Have found mags for 20$ each. I just want to get one and then see if the Uzi mags I have can be mad eto work. i think it would be great to have the Sten and the 9mm AR use the same mag.

I found one semi auto conversion thats very interesting.the hammer was a spring loaded disc that hits the back side of the bolt.
it looks like the bolt gets modified so that the sear doesn't catch it

http://www.indianapolisordnance.com/images2/dscn1197b.jpg

This is the modified bolt you can see the two guide rod holes have been drilled.
No idea how hard the bolt is on these things.
http://www.indianapolisordnance.com/images2/dscn1200a.jpg

Wow I should have looked closer before at my Sten kits, I have barrels.

:laughing:

So the Stenparts tube is all that I need since my parts kit has a barrel to put this thing back together?

...................

I have prexis kit I started on to build for my son... I have been way slow on this though.

So what's the difference btw a 80% vented blank and a vented blank?

ITSA..... That prexis semi kit seems pricey.... Cannot I not just buy the prexis tube and put it together, NFA compliance way of course.

subscribed..... i have 3-4 of them to build with a shit ton of extra parts.

Well it looks super simple...but I'm an optimist.

Just joined Weapons Guild to see some builds. Looks like a fun time. Order lead time on parts is way out there. The receiver tubes on Prexis have a several business WEEKS shipping time. :shaking:


EDIT:


Well if you order from the Prexis site they have a unique order/payment system....print off this email and mail me money along with it. :laughing:

Seems like to much trouble. Somebody post up their build Pirate style. Someone over on Weapons Guild says use rivets....a la AK...seems like another use for a welder to me.

so if one has the paper tracing thing, what would be the issue w/ just cutting down a peice of 1 3/4 DOM :confused:

so if one has the paper tracing thing, what would be the issue w/ just cutting down a peice of 1 3/4 DOM :confused:

Nothing seems like.

Prexis has a long legal discliamer warning about owning one of their original size tubes and a parts kit with auto parts being constructive possession of a MG....FYI.

so if one has the paper tracing thing, what would be the issue w/ just cutting down a peice of 1 3/4 DOM :confused:

1.5 DOM od 1.37id
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7344&step=4&showunits=inches&id=250&top_cat=0

If you are building a registered SBR or a pistol you do not need to worry about 922r parts count.

But you do have to make it fire from the closed bolt.
What I have seen is a set up that uses an AR hammer, trigger, disconnector.
http://www.prexis.com/sten/semistendesign.htm
The trigger is cut off the bottom of the trigger unit.
The trigger housing on the sten is remade out of some sheet metal so that it's wide enough for the AR parts.
The stock Sten trigger is used along with a trip lever going to the AR pieces.

I have seen similar with a soumi build.

An AR or similar firing pin is used. If using the AR pin you have to mill (dremel) out a hammer slot. into the bottom of the bolt.

I also have the MK-III sten kits, which have the perm attached barrel.
I have ordered a MK-II barrel, which uses a barrel nut, kinda like the Uzi.
I have a design for a suppressor that replaces the barrel nut.

I plan on just getting DOM and making my own receiver. If the stock bolt is modified by cutting a slot the full length of the bolt body, then weld a 'key' into the rear of the receiver, then only the modified bolt will fit.


On the MK-III the barrel has two trunnions, one at the chamber, one at the breech. These are riveted to the tube.

The photo I posted earlier, you can see how they modified the bolt and then just to the right of the bolt is the "hammer"
The hammer catches on the stock sear. I am unsure how they modifiy the stock set up to not go FA, but its related to the trip level. I am thinking you just cut the vertical leg off.
But I can't figure out what to do for a safety.
On the sten since it fires from the open bolt, the safety is to just have the charging handle up in the hook of the slot.

I bought a MKIII Sten kit from Copes.... This will be my first true "build" from a parts kit. :shaking:

Anyone here tackled it yet and done a write up. Searching on vacation from my mobile phone brings the suck....

Did you get the ones from Copes listed at 179$?

So what's the difference btw a 80% vented blank and a vented blank?

ITSA..... That Prexis semi kit seems pricey.... Cannot I not just buy the prexis tube and put it together, NFA compliance way of course.

I decided to buy the Prexis kit because that way I get the bolt and the reduced ID tube.. If you read the ATF letter for STEn conversions there has to be several modification to original parts. This includes a closed bolt operating system... I looked it up and down and yes I could make the STEn using factory sub machine gun parts and weld it so that it could only fire in semi, however the ATF says that is not good enough to prevent it from being reconverted to Full Boogie even if its welded. So having a reduced ID tube prevents the insertion of the FA bolt. The Prexis kit has all the internal parts as well as the tube and template and the barrel extension...Since my kid is WA he cannot have an SBR so I need the longer barrel for his conversion.

1.5 DOM od 1.37id
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7344&step=4&showunits=inches&id=250&top_cat=0
.

Graingers..............:D

huh. how much is that prexies thing?


also a long "barrell shroud" made out of aluminum and permanetly attached would work instead of getting a longer barrel, no?


i was gonna do it the 922 way on one.
make one that is original, so i think ill need 2 stamps.
make one w/ a silencer, since thats the way these things should be shot anyways :evil: so thats 3 stamps, right? :confused:

huh. how much is that prexies thing?


also a long "barrell shroud" made out of aluminum and permanetly attached would work instead of getting a longer barrel, no?


i was gonna do it the 922 way on one.
make one that is original, so i think ill need 2 stamps.
make one w/ a silencer, since thats the way these things should be shot anyways :evil: so thats 3 stamps, right? :confused:

The barrel extension isn't a barrel it just makes the barrel effectively that much longer by being welded in place, so yes I think you are correct in assuming aluminum would work.

The prexis kit was 279, he doesn't make any money on the the kits I do not think. East Mountain Machine Edgewood NM (sceeps stomping grounds) makes the kits. http://www.semiautosten.com/sten_002.htm
he sell them too, for the same price.

huh. how much is that prexies thing?


also a long "barrell shroud" made out of aluminum and permanetly attached would work instead of getting a longer barrel, no?


i was gonna do it the 922 way on one.
make one that is original, so i think ill need 2 stamps.
make one w/ a silencer, since thats the way these things should be shot anyways :evil: so thats 3 stamps, right? :confused:

SBR = 1 stamp.

If the silencer will be removable and its going to have a short barrel then 1 for sbr and 1 for suppressor.

yea but if i want them to be F/A then thats another, no?

yea but if i want them to be F/A then thats another, no?

You can't do that by building a kit (legally). You have to have a pre registered pre 86 tube.

oh..... suck!

If you had the tube, then MG > SBR, only one stamp for the firearm. One for the supressor alter.

Legal registered Stens can be found for 3500$ still.

Did you get the ones from Copes listed at 179$?

Yes, yes I did. That a good or a bad thing?

If you had the tube, then MG > SBR, only one stamp for the firearm. One for the supressor alter.

Legal registered Stens can be found for 3500$ still.

k well thats what i DONT wanna spend with these 3 or 4 :laughing:

Anybody have a PDF/whatever of a template for a MKIII?

Seems these Sten's used to be VERY cheap to build. May just put this project on hold and see if it doubles in price again.... :evil:

Yes, yes I did. That a good or a bad thing?

Just curious. I got my kits over 2 years ago. Just amazing how the price has gone from $25 to $180.

Anybody have a PDF/whatever of a template for a MKIII?

Seems these Sten's used to be VERY cheap to build. May just put this project on hold and see if it doubles in price again.... :evil:

I have PDF blue prints. They are NOT glue on templates. But do have all the measurements so that you can draw your own template.

oh..... suck!

Yeah, and even as a licensed w/SOT manufacturer I can't even build sample :(

i still need to get a LEO demo letter before I can.

"Repeal the 86 Volkmer(sp) Act"

Ohio Ordnance (440-285-3481) has servicable but some surface rust Sten mags for 4.50$
Have to phone, can't order these on the web.
If you are gun shy I will post photos when I get mine at the end of the week.
I do have some of their 8$ mags and they look great.

Everywhere else I have looked wants 20$.

This is all I have so far. I renamed them to make the upload and linking easier.

Right click and save

http://evilblackrifleshop.com/sten/1.pdf
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/sten/2.pdf
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/sten/3.pdf
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/sten/4.pdf
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/sten/5.pdf
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/sten/6.pdf
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/sten/7.pdf
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/sten/8.pdf

If you only want to get two files, get these (included in the above list)
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/sten/a.pdf
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/sten/b.pdf

most eggselent.

thank you for telling me about the magazines. i was just about to pull the trigger on a bunch at 15-20 :eek:

:evil: now i can order 4 times that much :)

My thoughts exactly.

They wont send to CA so if anyone wants some they will send to me and I can rebox for cost of shipping.

A build with photos

http://www.gunco.net/forums/f245/sten-build-mklll-load-o-pix-34677/

Tons of info
http://www.weaponeer.net/forum/forum_topics.asp?FID=401

OOOOooooooohhhhhhhh....................very nice.

A build with photos

http://www.gunco.net/forums/f245/sten-build-mklll-load-o-pix-34677/



need to be logged in :(

OK I finally figured out how this works.

The hammer is actually the square in the lower center of the photo

http://www.indianapolisordnance.com/images2/dscn1197b.jpg

The round lug at the top that I thought was the hammer, is just a big round slud and the thin metal rods screw or are welded into it.
The bolt gets drilled through at the top and bottom

On spring is the recoil spring
the second is the hamer spring.

Found an "improved" hammer.

http://www.weaponeer.net/forum/uploads/jestism/images/2006-09-04_121929_replacement_hammer.jpg

So on firing, the stock sear catches the hammer but not the bolt.
The semi/full selector gets welded into the semi position.

Still no sign of a safety :eek:

holy shizzle did i just buy a buncha mags :laughing:

How the hell does that hammer work? Does a go over the rod thats goes through the hammer and that puts the pressure on the back of the hammer?

Ohio Ordnance (440-285-3481) has servicable but some surface rust Sten mags for 4.50$
Have to phone, can't order these on the web.
If you are gun shy I will post photos when I get mine at the end of the week.
I do have some of their 8$ mags and they look great.

Everywhere else I have looked wants 20$.
the ohio ordinance guys are cool
went up there and bought ak receivers and wandered around for a while.
they got all kinds of cool shit.

How the hell does that hammer work? Does a go over the rod thats goes through the hammer and that puts the pressure on the back of the hammer?

Took me forever to figure it out. Took the photo of the improved hammer installed onto the back of the bolt for me to 'get it'.

The two spings in the kit go over those rods. Top one is recoil spring, pushed on the bolt.
Bottom one pushes against the hammer.
Hammer and bolt are drilled completely through so that the rods pass through them, but not the springs.

Anyone got a 12" x 1.5" piece of easily machinable and weldable steel rod?

FAL recoild spring will work for the springs. I already have a bunch of drill rod and 1.5" DOM.

I think the hardest part of the build is going to be drilling the two holes through the bolt. Things pretty dam hard and you want them to be perfectly straight and parrallel to each other to prevent binding.
Cutting the tail off the bolt, and making the slot can be done with ut off wheels.

Oh, how the hell is the stock firing pin held in place?
I cant find a cross pin. I got the extractor out, but not the FP.

simple drilling that bolt with a bridgeport. ill have my machinist do it fer me :D

simple drilling that bolt with a bridgeport. ill have my machinist do it fer me :D

If it's anything like my PPS-43 bolt. It is HARD. It will take a while to get through. Too much pressure can cause it to drill crooked.

Oh, how the hell is the stock firing pin held in place?
I cant find a cross pin. I got the extractor out, but not the FP.

IIRC , the firing pin is part of the bolt. Just a nipple machined into the bolt face.

OK I finally figured out how this works.

The hammer is actually the square in the lower center of the photo

http://www.indianapolisordnance.com/images2/dscn1197b.jpg

The round lug at the top that I thought was the hammer, is just a big round slud and the thin metal rods screw or are welded into it.
The bolt gets drilled through at the top and bottom

On spring is the recoil spring
the second is the hamer spring.

Found an "improved" hammer.

http://www.weaponeer.net/forum/uploads/jestism/images/2006-09-04_121929_replacement_hammer.jpg

So on firing, the stock sear catches the hammer but not the bolt.
The semi/full selector gets welded into the semi position.

Still no sign of a safety :eek:
This is one of the ways I've seen that people are making the sear catch the bolt for semi. It's a bolt extension that has to be welded it on. Not sure how it's ATF approved for a conversion though.

https://www.rockloc.com/photos/10001.jpg


This is called a safety block. it also has to be welded into the trigger housing and prevent the selection of FA.. Agin it might work but might not pass the test.
https://www.rockloc.com/photos/10020.jpg

These are both from rockloc.com

Firing pin is a short, maybe 1/2" long, piece of drill rod inserted in the face of the bolt.
So you also need to machine out the hole for the new pin.

I like the idea of the block to prevent movement of the lever.

I am thinking about moving the fa selector to behind the trigger and use it as a trigger block safety.

I am hoping to build some for sale, so will be submitting a sample to tech branch. Think I can do the same thing they do with the GSG, perm attached, fake supressor to get the barrel to length or sell it as an SBR. Since the SBR is less work, could actually sell it for less $$ to ofset the NFA tax.

Pete that might be very interesting, I have found no one building semi's and selling them to the general public.

DOM is on the way.

Building an SBR is easy.
Doing a legal length barrel means having to meet 922r which could adds to the expense.

Luckily the sten doesn't have that many parts in it. :D

Hammer, receiver, bbl would be us.

Trunnion, bolt, trigger, sear, Mag(3 parts), stock. I think thats it.

DOM is on the way.

Building an SBR is easy.
Doing a legal length barrel means having to meet 922r which could adds to the expense.

Luckily the sten doesn't have that many parts in it. :D

Hammer, receiver, bbl would be us.

Trunnion, bolt, trigger, sear, Mag(3 parts), stock. I think thats it.

so before i can buy the DOM, i need to get a SBR tax stamp going then huh? sorry im EBR retarded for the most part unless its an AK, and even then im pretty stupid :laughing: :flipoff2:

i saw complete conversion kits w/ a longer barrel and the whole chingadera somewheres on the net.... is this the same idea your gonna do pete, or ?

The semiautosten.com (reffered to as SAS) kit includes all the parts to make the same firing system I have envisioned. It comes with a length of tube that gets welded over the barrel to bring it to legal length.

The Mk-III has two trunnions that support the barrel. It lloks like the tube slips over the barrel, and welded to the front trunnion. So if you measure the od of your barrel, go to onlinemetals.com or aircraftspruce.com or similar and find something with the correct ID. Just weld it on prior to demilling the kit.

If you are going to SBR then yes, go ahead and fill out and send in the form 1 before cutting the receiver. The plain piece of DOM I cant see being an issue, even the tub with a template in place, or one of the 80% tubes. But 100% tube might = intent. its a tricky thing really, intent.

You could also weld on the over tube in such a way that you could come back later with a dremel and cut the weld and remove the tube. So you could build a rifle now, and after you get the paperwork in hand, cut the tub off.

Another idea is if you are going to get the DOM and make your own receiver, and you are doing the Mk-III, get the DOM too long. Leave it in place and extended out beyond the barrel. it will kinda look like a fake supressor.

As an FFL-07 with a SOT I don't have to worry about this, I don't have to register the SBR, supressor, etc until after its built. As a civilian you have to have the stamp in hand before you start work.

I don't know yet if I would build 16.25" carbines or SBRs to sell.
If I did the carbine I would look for some barrel blanks, instead of doing the shroud, that way I have a US part.

I'm positive the Prexis kit covers the part requirement for carbine.

Yeah looking at the parts for the Sten, I think it might to hard to come up with 10 total foriegn parts :)

My DOM is here, and the mags.
The mags have surface wear, looks more from storage then real use.
Found a small, like 1/8 diameter spot of rust on one. Very, very happy.

I don't think I am up to this build. Seems to hard to do it the right way. And expensive to do right.

Yeah looking at the parts for the Sten, I think it might to hard to come up with 10 total foriegn parts :)

My DOM is here, and the mags.
The mags have surface wear, looks more from storage then real use.
Found a small, like 1/8 diameter spot of rust on one. Very, very happy.

I kinda went nuts and bought like 50 mags and sorta ordered a stick of stainless tube for work that just happens to be .......................:D

Wow can't believe its been 8 months :shaking:

A well I finally got some work done on one of these.
Its getting built for the company, on a Form 2 so no mods to this one.
I guess technically this is a MK-IIa (Which fits since the Rover is a IIa) It is a MK-II barrel, and barrel retention system (ie removeable barrel) built from a MK-III parts kit.
I need to actually tack weld it all together and function check. Holding everyting with just a bunch of clamps it's all g2g.
And I still need to fab up the barrel lock.

After this one I am going to make a 16" carbine MK-III with the proper semi auto and US parts.

Then thinking of doing a stock III but with a pistol grip. Sell it as a high cap pistol. If someone wants they can submit a Form I and turn it into a SBR easy.

And for those with sharp eyes, yes I am thinking that a 16" carbine that makes use of a Suomi barrel shroud is also in the works.

i have one of those wire pistol grips.....


think i could go around it that way?

im watching pete :D i have 3-4 to do fer myself :D

i have one of those wire pistol grips.....


think i could go around it that way?

im watching pete :D i have 3-4 to do fer myself :D

If by around it, you mean build a semi auto pistol, to get around it being a registered short barrelled rifle, yes.

If you mean pistol, vs a 16" barrelled rifle, and thus avoid 922r, yes.

You will still need to build it as a semi auto.

The drill press and dremel build is doable, and its turned out nice.
But a CNC mill would rock.

For the pistol consider the MK-II shorty.
http://www.stenparts.com/Tubes/tubes.html
Then have the tube, but also a short barrel, the barrel trunnion and the forearm/barrel nut.
You need to modify the bolt, looks like maybe just lobe of the extension on the back like in in the Indianapolis semi kit
http://www.indianapolisordnance.com/images2/dscn1209b.jpg

I have one of their kits on order. Just so I have an actual modded bolt that I can then copy. I want to see if I can take the MK-III kit bolts and make all the modds on my lathe.
For the two recoil holes, I don't see why I can't set the bolt in a four jaw centered on where the hole will be. After drilling, loosen the check, and spin the bolt 180.
All the other parts in the kit I can make.

So I believe I will be able to make pistols and carbines, and sell them for about 500.

The original mk-ii barrel is 8" long.
Brand new in the white versions are availale for 40$.
I prefer the II over the III because of the quick change barrel feature. And its actually easier to build.
I can make the receiver. If someone wants a pistol, I complete as intended.
If they want a carbine, then I use a longer barrel and longer shroud. With how its designed it would be a fully floated bbl.
There are 16" bbls available for 120, or I can weld an extension on the OE barrel. I think the longer barrel is a superior solution.
Add a leather wrap to the forearm, and cap the end of the tube and its going to very closely resemble the silenced version.

Also, using a stripped barrel nut as the base, I can build a can that works just like the oe.
Or just thread the barrel 1/2x32 and slap a thread protector on if people want.

OK spent some time on the lathe today.

16" Carbine 9mm barrel. Custom trunnion turned and welded in place.

http://evilblackrifleshop.com/images/builds/sten1.jpg

Bbl cut to 7", bead blasted, parked, threaded 1/2x32 and attaching a YHM QD mount
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/images/builds/sten2.jpg

Took the stock Mk-II barrel nut, cut off the extension and welded on some DOM
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/images/builds/sten3.jpg

And then had a couple goodies arrive yesterday. YHM Wraith XL and an AAC Element. Also had a YHM Cobra and an AAC Pilot show up For the SIG P250 and GSG5 respectively
http://evilblackrifleshop.com/images/builds/sten4.jpg

The Mk-II has been tested with dummies. Feeds and extracts perfectly.
I got the sear slot tunes. Both positions work as expected :evil:

I need to chuck the 'new' barrel nut back in the lathe and turn down the welds.

Thinking about doing a leather wrap that covers the new nut and about and inch or two of the can.

Hopefully Tuesday after work I will take her out and play.

if it works well will take all apart, blast, and duracoat.