OK, I made a trip to the local wreaking yard last weekend and found a couple Ford 8.8 rear ends that will do the job. It’s a pick your own parts type of place so the complete assembly will only be $170. (not bad).

Since I want to be totally sure and not have any regrets about doing this axle swap… is there any other options I should look for?

I have an ’87 YJ with 4.5’ RE Extreme lift. Plan on running 33’ – 35’.

If I do the Ford 8.8 rear end the cost would be about:
Assembly $170.
Super 8.8 Kit $500.
Gears & Install $250.
ARB Locker $800.

For a total of $1,750…

But I can get the M44 rear end and convert it to my YJ for only $1,350.00
Mopar Performance Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Model 44 Rear Axle Assembly
Specifications:axle ratio: 4.10
Factory Rubicon E-Locker
Track width: 61.9
Wheel bolt pattern: 5 on 5.0
Rear axle tube diameter: 80mm
Front axle tube diameter: 63.5mm
Front brake rotor: 302mm diameter x 28mm wide vented
Rear brake rotor

I’m aware I’ll have to change wheels because the spacing is different that what I currently run.

What else should I be considering here.

I want to do this axle swap once and right.

Any input is welcome.

Thanks,
JC

What gear ratio are you going with? 4.10? If so then just get an 8.8 that already has 4:10 and save yourself some $$

If I got the m44 JK axle I'd leave the 4:10's in it. If I build an 8.8 I'd go with a little lower gear.

if you're willing to spend $1,700 for an 8.8, then i'd buy something already built by somebody else. you will save A LOT of money and time.

i'd look into a 1/2ton Ford axles High Pinion Dana 44 up front and a Ford 9" in the rear. you can get them both built for less than $2,000 as a pair. Just keep your eyes open in the classifieds. The axles are not TOO wide for a YJ and you can keep the jeep as a DD.

I have been running 8.8 with 4.88/Detroit locker/ 37" tires for three years on stock axle shafts. Even i abused it a lot and it still runs strong.

My only advice is to install and weld TNT truss to the axle. 8.8 is notorious for twisted tube and it happened to my 8.8 twice. Even I welded the seam around the tubes to the housing but it still twisted. I welded the TNT truss on it and this problem disappeared for good. TNT truss cost $185.

So my suggestion is that you install TNT truss first and install super 8.8 later when u have money.

Does anybody have any insight on the M44 axles? Are they just a Dana 44 with Mopar using the "M" to note their model?

Has anybody use these JK axles to do a sway in YJ or TJ?

Seems like a pretty good deal for the price... unless I'm over looking something.

Thanks,
JC

In no paticular order. Here is how I built mine up.
First off Moser has most of the parts you might need at resonable prices. Strange and Mark Williams also have lots of goodies for the 8.8.

1. Weld up the tubes
2. A truss will stiffen things up a bunch. Used one from TNT and added a bit to the area around the housing. Take it easy welding or you will warp the asm.
3. A girdled rear cover adds a lot of stiffness to the housing and helps to support the caps. Plus a bit more fluid capacity.
4. Main cap stud kit.
5. Mark Williams main caps of billet steel further holds everything together.
6. Moser makes several sizes of outboard bearings that are really used on the 9 inch but will work great on a 8.8. Gets rid of the c clip with there kit. Lot better way then the C Clip kit. Cheaper too.
7. I am running a Detroit so Moser made up a set of 31 spline chromo shafts in the width I needed.
8. The companion flange now becomes the weak link. The truck 8.8 has a wider flange that houses a 1330 (or was it a 1350 ?) u joint. Better yet is a 1350 yoke that gets rid of the flange entirely.
9. Moser or Ratech make a crush sleeve elimnator kit. Well worth the few bucks.

Dare to say an 8.8 set up like this ought to last you a long time.
I am running a set of 37`s with no issues at all.

Red Loctite on the bolts and a good pattern and you should be good to go.

whats the pro's from using an 8.8 vs. 9"?

...keep the same bolt pattern? well I'm assuming you have the stock dana 30 and you're pushing it w/ 35's. Unless your wheels are really expensive then i'd consider it, but other than that I wouldn't get an 8.8.

there was just an ad for Ford HP44 w/ hysteer, chromos, locker and 9" w/ locker for $1800 and its setup for a YJ. Sounds cheaper and easier than getting an 8.8.

9`s are nice but the pinion is so low that you end up with a shitty driveline angle.

Get the 8.8 with 410`s and the LSD. Get the kit from Mountain Off Road and wheel it. After welding up the tubes and trussing it.

get the 8.8 and don't look back. i have been running an 8.8 on 37's for almost three years on stock axles with no issues. weld it up rather than a selectable locker unless its a DD and you drive on ice, otherwise a locker is money best spent elsewhere. the axle is close enough to d35 width you don't need different wheels or spacers.

Your jeep is 5x4.5 you said M44 is 5x5 therefor you would have a different bolt pattern front and rear.

different strokes for different folks i guess...i have the HP44 and 9 and with the right driveshaft I don't have any driveline issues and half my tire is tucked under the fenders w/ no spacers and its a DD.
if you don't think you'll ever want to go bigger or wheel harder, then i've been told (if you're light on the gas) then the dana30 can handle the 35-37 range. i bust d44 shafts w/ my 4-banger.

whatever you do, have fun with the build and keep us posted.

Thanks guys. I'm coming back around to the 8.8. Found one with the LS at the local yard for $170.