OK...There is something telling me it's time to build a mud truck. I found a 79 F250 4wd but the guy keeps going up on the amount of money he wants for it. Its one price if he pulls the motor and another if he keeps the 351 in there which isn't my first choice. I'm not stuck on Ford. What is something I should be looking for? I want to start with something that has a good base. I'd like to have something with a 205 case and a big block. I do have a ford 60 front and a 14 bolt rear I'm sitting on but if I could find a chevy with a 60 in it already I would just sit on the axles I have for the next project. What years to people suggest and why? If I knew what kind/model I was after I know with a little time I could find one but I don't know where to start? Help me out please!!!!!


Todd

Get a Unimog! I kick ass at the mud bogs with my 78' 406 with a 20 speed and 49's. No welding, cutting or modifying. Just buy some giant tires, bolt em on and kick ass. Even the old 404.1 gasser will go like crazy. Just my biased opinion. Oh, and you don't break shit on a Unimog if it's kept stock. Portal axles, lockers front and rear and everything is way over built. Check them out http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/

I would get a Chevy. Just because damn near everything is interchangeable between them. You have axles already pick what ever year you want 50's or a 60's would be:smokin:.

But realisticly 73-87 would be your best bet.

Get a Unimog! I kick ass at the mud bogs with my 78' 406 with a 20 speed and 49's. No welding, cutting or modifying. Just buy some giant tires, bolt em on and kick ass. Even the old 404.1 gasser will go like crazy. Just my biased opinion. Oh, and you don't break shit on a Unimog if it's kept stock. Portal axles, lockers front and rear and everything is way over built. Check them out http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/


Unimog axles are specifically outlawed in many of the lower & mid-level classes around here :flipoff2:


What are you planning to do with this truck, just play or compete?

First generation toyota truck with 37's and a high revving V8. Super light and super fast. Just my $0.02. Oh and they look cool.

any yota with a SAS, big tires and big motor!

Unimog axles are specifically outlawed in many of the lower & mid-level classes around here :flipoff2:


What are you planning to do with this truck, just play or compete?

They are such bad ass rigs there outlawed, sounds like a bunch of woosey welder- fab dudes getting tired of being beat by a stock rig.

no, i think they are getting tired of goin to sleep as youre uni crawls at 1/2 mph making no noise and not throwing any mud. youre saposed to be exciting in a mud contest. no one would show up for any motor sport if they all had stock motors and really quiet exhaust systems.

Get a light truck, something like a Toyota or Suzuki. They cheap, easy to modify and if you cant live with 4 squirrels of power just throw in a V8 for good measure.

I am all about the mud slinging part!! I'm already doing a build on a crawler on Rockwells and 49's etc. So this time I want something that will flat get with it.

big block or no Big block?

3/4 or 1 ton?

Gas or Diesel?

I'm wanting an Auto. Is that what most run?

How many people run their dana 44's fronts?

Is it a must to have 1 tons?

What gear ratio/tire size are most going with?

I want to thank everyone for their help. You only get one shot to pick the right truck to start on.

Ya doesnt matter which big or small block, I guess small blocks are cheaper to build. I think some people dont wheel diesels is because of the fact they dont rev as high, and they expensive when they go boom. Another good rig would be a fullsize Ford bronco 78/79 or Chevy Blazer 73-91, they somewhat light in stock trim and are already packing a V8:D.

Edited my post above looking for your answers. Thanks! I"m itching to get something started quick!!

big block or no Big block?

3/4 or 1 ton?

Gas or Diesel?

I'm wanting an Auto. Is that what most run?

How many people run their dana 44's fronts?

Is it a must to have 1 tons?

What gear ratio/tire size are most going with?

All righty then I've give you my .02. For motor selection I think it depends on how you gonna use the truck and which tire size and gear ratio you plan to use. Small or big block doesnt matter alot because both motors can be built very powerful, but big blocks are more pricey to build. A big torque motor (diesel or big block) will have no problem spinning a 38" or larger tire with a gear ratio around 4.56. Most mud trucks run gas because again they cheap, lighter than diesels and make more than enough power. 3/4 or 1 Ton doesnt matter a whole lot which you choose, both are heavy, the 1 ton will probably have a better front axle (D60) if you've found the right truck, but the 1 ton will cost you ground clearence. Most of the guys in my area auto trans because they faster shifting and the driver can focus more on driving, but standards are more durable so its personal perfence. I've noticed alot of guys running 4.10s with 33s,35s,etc and also 4.56s with 38" and up tires. Hope this helps.

you can never have too much power, just not strong enough parts behind the power.the problem with diesels is that you have to wait for the turbo. unless you spend decent money on twins and a good fuel and exhaust system.yes big blocks CAN be more money than smalls but, dollar for dollar you end up with a motor that is cranking all its got vs a motor working at 65% putting out the same or better power and can be rebuilt later. yes i think bigger is better. do some research and you will find the weight difference between small and big block really isnt that much(150 lbs) or so.

Todd,
I'd say go with an 87-91 K30 or ANY big block 1 ton truck. Weld it up fr/rr, lift it a little and throw some 47" LTB's on it. To me it's the ultimate "cheap" mud truck with plenty of power in stock form. You'de definately need some Chromo shafts for the front.

On the trans., I guess thats just a personal preference. Me, I run a 4 speed in the mud, I know how I get and an auto just won't hold up underr me rocking it back and forth and never letting the RPM's settle down.:shaking: I can easily replace a clutch by myself, but I'm no good at rebuilding automatics. Just my .02.

i say its got to be chevy. so many parts available. and a chevy 350 is by far the best motor, and you can pull more power out of a SBC 350 than a BB 454. i agree with elvis- 73-87 kick ass. they look good, shits cheap, and you can put anything on it that you like.

i wanted a big block in my build just to say i have one. but after looking at it, SBC 350 was the better choice for me. many BB are externally balanced so if you push em too much they shake like a flea covered dog with a nervous twitch. if you really want power bore a 350, put a cam in it, headers, intake, ect. but that can be expensive.

yeah, small block chevys are the answer. thats why top fuel uses them and monster trucks too. sorry a small block chevy can produce alot of power but, there is no replacement for displacement. i would like to see a small block make 1500 hp and still be half way reliable. so what motor is capeable of that,thats right, a big block. sorry bout youre luck having to just make do with a small block. i know to almost all of us money is a huge issue. and if it wasent we would all have800cubic inches and 7500 horsepower. but to say a small block will make more power than a big block is just plain ignorant.:flipoff2:

Get a 3/4 or 1 ton, preferably a 1 ton with a 60 under the nose, with a big block and a 3 speed auto; any of the big three will do, weld both ends, lift/trim as required/dedicated by the rules to fit the tire size for the class you want to run, spice with whatever method of improving performance you wish, and go have fun.
Really a pretty simple formula, and old BB beaters aren't that hard to find...
If where you're running has an engine swap rule, and you're looking to run a Ford, the 460 never came factory in a 4x4 before 83. Being you already have a Ford 60, an 83-87 F250(88< = EFI) or 83-85 F350 with TTB under the nose would be just as good a base as a solid axle rig.
I piss off more than a few guys running 70's Fords with my 86 thanks to that rule at one of the places I race, I can run pro-stock, but, because they are running the same engine, they have to run Mod.

Edited my post above looking for your answers. Thanks! I"m itching to get something started quick!!

big block or no Big block?

3/4 or 1 ton?

Gas or Diesel?

I'm wanting an Auto. Is that what most run?

How many people run their dana 44's fronts?

Is it a must to have 1 tons?

What gear ratio/tire size are most going with?



WHAT ARE YOU PLANNING TO DO WITH THE TRUCK?

Just play, or compete? There are TONS of competition bog events in Kansas and almost everyone I know who even has just a "play" truck will enter the occasional bog. So far, the only advice I can give is to stay the eff away from diesels. Tell me more about your goals & ~ tire size you want and I can help you much, much, much more :flipoff2:

Yota body/frame. Chevy everything else.

WHAT ARE YOU PLANNING TO DO WITH THE TRUCK?

Just play, or compete? There are TONS of competition bog events in Kansas and almost everyone I know who even has just a "play" truck will enter the occasional bog. So far, the only advice I can give is to stay the eff away from diesels. Tell me more about your goals & ~ tire size you want and I can help you much, much, much more :flipoff2:

I have a bad habit of starting a build doing something mild and ending up taking it over the top. Example:

I bought this jeep less than a year ago. My plans where to put it on tons with a 350, 700r and a mild stretch. Well.......Now it is sitting on 49's with front and rear steer rockwells, Injected 496 vortec, narrowed frame, etc.
When I got it.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/Blue%20TJ/cid__0323081516a.jpg
Now.
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/Cage%202-2-09/RollCage2-2-09010.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/Cage%202-2-09/RollCage2-2-09013.jpg

So it's hard for me to say where it will end up. But I wanted to start with a good base. A solid rig that I didn't have to go out and do a motor swap, axle swap etc. I have enough building going on with other projects at this point. Just looking for a good base to start with:D

If you're going to start off with little tires, and don't want to swap engines right away, go with an early Bronco with a 302 or a '72-'75 CJ5 or CJ6 with a 304.

For up to 38.5's, '78 or '79 Bronco would be the best choice, or a Blazer/Jimmy with a swapped in 9" rear.


There's no need for 1-ton stuff. If you want to go to BIG tires, you'll want to keep the 38.5's up front with the 1/2 ton frontend and beef the hell out of the 9" for 44" rubber. Once you get to the kind of HP level needed to run a 44" class, your rear tires will be doing 95% of the work anyway, so there's no need for giant front tires and the weight handicap that comes with them.


If you want to start from scratch with a serious build in mind from the very start, build off a Toyota or Jeep frame & body as they're much lighter than full-size stuff. Dunno 'bout Ranger frames, but S-10 frames are almost as heavy as fullsize stuff, so they're not a real good choice IMO.

TEX

no, i think they are getting tired of goin to sleep as youre uni crawls at 1/2 mph making no noise and not throwing any mud. youre saposed to be exciting in a mud contest. no one would show up for any motor sport if they all had stock motors and really quiet exhaust systems.

So, why are Unimog axles discriminated against. A Unimog axled big block mud machine will make plenty of noise and speed. Also in the few mud bogs I have run with my 406 Unimog People crowded the sidelines to watch the Unimog kick ass. I can remember one that people were running from the parking lot to see me run. A big 11,000lb diesel machine spins the tires and makes plenty of noise. Now, if your looking for speed, no the stock Unimogs are not fast, but as stated before, a Unimog axled V8 will go better than the same machine with regular axles every time. Something to do with 7 more inches of clearance and with 406 axles they will not break. Although broken shit is pretty fun also. Everybody like carnage. So put those big mud tires on your Dana 60's and carry a spare front axle with you as some of the trucks I ride with do. They treat changing an axle out on the trail like putting on a spare tire.
Now, lets get real. The reason Unimog axles are outlawed is because they are almost impossible to beat in a mud bog, almost cheating. The people making the rules don't like to loose to some yahoo with a set of Unimog axles. I have been refused to run in truck pulls for no other reason than the Unimog will just kill the other trucks and the guys running the show want to win. I even got a third place trophy once because no one would hook up to me. I shamed them into giving it to me after the rules were read and the two winners refused to hook to the Unimog, even just for fun. I asked the top two winners if I could hook up to both at once, no way. It is just a bunch of people who hate to loose.
So if you want a mud machine without all the fabbing and busted shit get a Unimog. If you like fixing broken stuff and spending time modifying things get a kit truck. I can see how building a truck can be a very rewarding experience also.

So, why are Unimog axles discriminated against.

The high clearance creates a competitive advantage - one that others could utilize if not for the rarity & expense of the 'mog axle swap.

It's just like not allowing 44" tires in a 36.5" class or not permitting engine swaps in "Street Stock".

Dude, enough with the Unimog. They're cool. We know.
I bet if I showed up at any of those events with a skidder I'd be banned too. And I'd kick your ass in a tug of war.

Yes, but your not street legal, stock, or a truck. That is construction equipment. The Mog really isn't far off though. The question was what is a good truck for the mud. I answered it. Sorry for derailing the post on the rules of mud racing here. But the original poster and myself have learned some things here. First and foremost before running out and buying or building something for an event it is important to check the rules. You can get on the "edge of a class by knowing these things and have a nice advantage. If a class is no larger than 35" tires and the next class is no larger than 49's you can buy your tires accordingly.
As for a tug of war with a skidder, I would love to. I bet I would loose also, but I wouldn't do it because I would loose. I will hook my Mog to anything and give it a shot. It can be pretty exciting getting pulled backwards! Hell I wanted to enter the burnout contest, no not the one I took in the sixties. This is where you chain a vehicle down to a steel plate on the ground and see who gets the loudest audience response by smoking the tires. We figured the Mog might pull the thing apart where it hooks to the plate or rip the whole plate out.
I do concur that a big supercharged V8 or a 600HP+ diesel pickup with stacks can be way more exciting than a Mog, but sometimes that little Samuri flying into the pit up to the roof is pretty cool.
I was at one mud run and second place, behind me was a crazy woman who just won here husbands pretty much stock Dodge Ram in the divorce. She hit that pit with her foot to the floor. Everybody else was going around this high spot in the pit. She rammed it head on, flew over it and catapulted way ahead of everybody. She thought she had won, but the Mog ran last as the grand finale.
I would check the rules where you want to run and get a rig that fits your budget and class. There is a lot of good advice here about mud and it gives the rock crawler guys something to laugh at.
And Tex, why stay away from diesels? I can't see any great pitfalls to running a diesel.

And Tex, why stay away from diesels? I can't see any great pitfalls to running a diesel.

Too heavy & too slow.

OK...There is something telling me it's time to build a mud truck. I found a 79 F250 4wd but the guy keeps going up on the amount of money he wants for it. Its one price if he pulls the motor and another if he keeps the 351 in there which isn't my first choice. I'm not stuck on Ford. What is something I should be looking for? I want to start with something that has a good base. I'd like to have something with a 205 case and a big block. I do have a ford 60 front and a 14 bolt rear I'm sitting on but if I could find a chevy with a 60 in it already I would just sit on the axles I have for the next project. What years to people suggest and why? If I knew what kind/model I was after I know with a little time I could find one but I don't know where to start? Help me out please!!!!!


Toddwhat ever you can afford

OK...There is something telling me it's time to build a mud truck. I found a 79 F250 4wd but the guy keeps going up on the amount of money he wants for it. Its one price if he pulls the motor and another if he keeps the 351 in there which isn't my first choice. I'm not stuck on Ford. What is something I should be looking for? I want to start with something that has a good base. I'd like to have something with a 205 case and a big block. I do have a ford 60 front and a 14 bolt rear I'm sitting on but if I could find a chevy with a 60 in it already I would just sit on the axles I have for the next project. What years to people suggest and why? If I knew what kind/model I was after I know with a little time I could find one but I don't know where to start? Help me out please!!!!!


Todd

Wise man once say: First rule of hot-rodding is 'Use what you own already'



Second rule of hot-rodding 'Less weight = Free power'

yeah we get it. you entered a mud event and did well. good for you.i will admit i misread the statement and thought they said unimogs were banned not that unimog axles were banned. sorry for that.

the 79 Ford is a great start
everyone loves them
a ford 429/460 based engine is the way to go
stock bottom end can fit a 4.5" stroker crank, most blocks will go to 4.44" bore
that is 557" out of the stock block with no weird work required http://www.flatlanderracing.com/strokerford-460557.html
Bigfoot guys still use a C6 so it cant be that bad of an auto, and the 79 came with one stock

really hard to beat a ford as a starting point
better frame then a chevy, body is way heavier then a chevy but if its a bogger you will be removing as much as possible

I do have to admit I thought about throwing my 347 stroker in my yota!:smokin:

Couple general rules i've found in my years of mud racing:

keep it light, long wheelbase, long stroke motors (ie big blocks)/ big horsepower.

Less weight is more power, and if you want to win diggin to the bottom to chew you're way ain't gonna win races, cause someone is floatin on top flying by.

Keep the wheel base long, this gives you control, better chance to work out of holes, as short little jeeps if they can't float they drown in the holes, but the biggie is the control, if you can point and shoot and it goes there, you can win races

Power, the more you have the better, high torque motors are the way to go, high reving small blocks are great, but blow ass when they can't get them tires spinning because they need to hit 5grand to start to have enough tq to turn the tires.


Next to that build the truck to be reliable, you can't do shit if the truck is broke, the biggie here is water/mud proofing, driveshafts, hubs, and cooling, if something goes wrong its typically one of those four things. For tires, find out what classes you're area runs and pick the one you can be most competitive in, then run the biggest bogger you can in that class, now pending on the type of mud this may not be the best tire, as taller can be better depending on the type of mud.

for a starting vehicle, well if you have axles, and theres no engine swap rules where you run, find a ranger, s-10 or something similar thats light and you can get a decent wheelbase out of start there, then swap the biggest motor you can afford in there, and go to town.

If you already have the front Ford 60 like you say, I would seriously consider that F-250 you already mentioned. 460 engines are plentiful and cheap, and the stroker kits are plentiful and cheap as well.

Or find another late 70's F-series 4x4 that is a cheap rustbucket and tip the body off and drop Ranger sheetmetal on it to seriously cut down on the weight- not that hard to adapt a front 60 to radius arms if you start with an F-150 or Bronco.

Id say buy a late 70's f-150 or bronco, swap in 1 tons, a 205 and a c6, build the biggest stroker motor you can afford, then drop on a ranger cab and go to town. Remeber the more power th higher gears you can get away with, which means higher wheel speeds to clean the tires with.

The problem I am up against with the 1 tons I have is that they have 5.38's in them. I can but don't want to have to change them out. I did a little kicking around and found a running 460 today for 300$. I have some new 38.5" boggers but I know they won't be big enough if I stick with the gears that are in the Tons I have. The more I look around the better the deal looks on that 79 ford. '

What can you do to drop weight in them but yet make it to where you can still drive it down the road if you had to? I'm not looking for a DD here. But I'd like to be able to throw my dog box in the back and take it out for a day. I'm learning a lot. I don't have to have something today or even the next day. But I am looking. I hope to get enough Ideas where I can make my mind up as to what I need to be looking for and get something bought in the next few weeks. Thanks again for the idea/input guys. This is a little dif. pace than the rock crawling mode I have been in.

Todd

Find a k30. They are the answer. Big blocks are the shit but come at a cost. sbc can be built to produce great power to dollar when compared to others.

Here is what I would do if I was in your position:

Buy the f-250, and grab that 460. Build the 460 (bored/stroked etc.) as much as your budget will allow (or at least 5-600 hp), and throw a c6 behind it, built to handle the power. Leave the axles stock for now, and throw 37-38" swampers or boggers on them. Keeping the t-case in low range will compensate for the stock gears in the axles, or just build the engine to make nasty power. I'd weld the rear end, but leave the front open. When the rear axle blows, swap in the 14 bolt, and be prepared to take a lot of shit from hard-core ford guys for it :laughing:

Dodge :flipoff2:
I know a certain '72 dodge with a 318 and 37's that will, and has outrun 454 powered cheby's with 39's all day long. :shaking:
Whatever you get can be built to whatever you want it to do. Make sense? So start with what you want, or what you like. Don't ask other peoples opinions. Just whatever you'll have more fun with. That's all were supposed to do, is have fun. Right? :D

Dodge :flipoff2:
I know a certain '72 dodge with a 318 and 37's that will, and has outrun 454 powered cheby's with 39's all day long. :shaking:
Whatever you get can be built to whatever you want it to do. Make sense? So start with what you want, or what you like. Don't ask other peoples opinions. Just whatever you'll have more fun with. That's all were supposed to do, is have fun. Right? :D

I think the point was to see what has an advantage as a starting point, not to point out that chevy guys can make a bigblock suck
anything can be made to fly in the right hands

I think the point was to see what has an advantage as a starting point, not to point out that chevy guys can make a bigblock suck


Now that right there is funnay :flipoff2:

I think the point was to see what has an advantage as a starting point, not to point out that chevy guys can make a bigblock suck
anything can be made to fly in the right hands

Then read the rest of the post.

I've been fishing around on Ebay looking for that right base truck to start with. Well I think I found it:flipoff2:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-chevy-monster-mud-truck-350-4x4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a3Q7c 39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhas hZitem290295370890QQitemZ290295370890QQptZMotorsQ5 fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

What do you think this douch was thinking when he built that?

You shouldn't have posted that just yet, Now Proeliator Is going to drive the bid up:laughing:

A POS jeep wrangler is perfect. you can easily adapt a big or small block anything into it, weight % is real good front to back so your not pulling with the front end all the time. super easy to get a cage around. and you can find a beat up 4cld rig for a couple hundered bucks

I want to thank everyone for their info. I'll post up pics later but I scored a truck out of TX that I'm going to be building off of. It's and 83 chevy with a built 350 cranking out 450 HP. Dana 60's front and rear. It's the go get'er I was looking for. 6" springs on all 4 with no blocks. Tires and wheels will be comeing off, it has 37's on it now. I'll be running my double beadlocks with PVC inserts
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/PowderCoated%20H1s%207/RollCage2-9-09008.jpg
and I have a set of new 38.5 boggers. Something with a little giddy up but yet something I could still use around the farm if I needed to. Looking to pick it up on Monday.:D First mods will be upgraded 35 spline shafts in the front and I have some new 35 spline warn hubs that will go in it. Highsteer arms with new drag link and tie rod. It is a manual with a 208 so I'll be yanking that and going with an auto and a 205.

Definitely auto, but keep the 208 IMO.

aww come on Tex, it just won't work unless each part weighs 200lbs :rolleyes:

aww come on Tex, it just won't work unless each part weighs 200lbs :rolleyes:

Yeah, what am I thinkin' maybe some 15X15 steel rims would be a good addition :D

I am all about the mud slinging part!! I'm already doing a build on a crawler on Rockwells and 49's etc. So this time I want something that will flat get with it.

big block or no Big block? big

3/4 or 1 ton? real question is 2.5 or 5 ton

Gas or Diesel? diesel for the cool factor

I'm wanting an Auto. Is that what most run? built auto

How many people run their dana 44's fronts?

Is it a must to have 1 tons?

What gear ratio/tire size are most going with? 2.5 tons come with 6.72s

I want to thank everyone for their help. You only get one shot to pick the right truck to start on.
just over build it so you break less stuff

ew
sorry to hear you had to settle for a belly button chebby

ew
sorry to hear you had to settle for a belly button chebby

ahh come on now.. its so cool to stamp it out of cookie cutter..

I have had the worse luck here of late but it all changed today:D I found a Chevy 1/2 Ton it was a 1983 with what the add on ebay said 60's front and rear. Well I gave the guy a few simple things to check for me as I had taken tomorrow off (monday) and hooked up to my flatbed gooseneck I was heading down to TX to pick this truck with a new motor up. Kid calls me back and acting like someone hit his dog and says. I think it has a 44 in the front. Well........I had to tell him he wanted to much for the truck without 1 ton axles under it. So I get a "wheels for you" a local auto magazine that is free around here. Find a 76 chevy with 1 ton axles under it. Guy tells me the axles came out of an early 80's 1 ton chevy wants $3500. Haul the trailer out there (on the day of my girls first birthday, before everyone shows up). I offer the guy 1200 for it is was such a sack of Shit! Welded Dodge 60's fuel gushing off of it. First I thought it was a radiator leak. Nope. Straigt up fuel. I asked him if I could drive it wondering if it was going to set fire the entire time. I had to restart it 3 times as it stalled out. Now I'm pissed and thinking ya know. Maybe a beater up mud truck isn't for me. So I look at my phone and a bronco I had been watching was about the end and the reserve hadn't been met. Well. Longstory short. I now own a 66 Ford bronco. it's pimp. 44 front 4.56 gears normal 302. 9" rear. Power steering. Here are a few pics. It all worked out for me:grinpimp:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/67%20Bronco/67Bronco.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/67%20Bronco/67Bronco1.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/67%20Bronco/67Bronco11.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/67%20Bronco/67Bronco9.jpg
http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t213/406yj/67%20Bronco/67Bronco8.jpg

You sir are an asshole, that is one SWEEEEET halfcab Bronc, Congrats.

a happy ending after all !!

Nicely done!

You sir are an asshole, that is one SWEEEEET halfcab Bronc, Congrats.


Ya. To piss the old school bronco guys off. I gave 5100 for it. The guy is sick. I talked with him lastnight. He had it on ebay with a MUCH higher reserve and it lacked 300$ of hitting the reserve. So he put it back on and lowered the reserve to 5000. I bid 5780 as it wasn't exactly what I was looking for but was VERY clean and very cool. I ended up in it for 5100. Called the guy and he has had it only 6 mo. and is sick about how low it sold. I think he must have pissed off all the people that watched it the first time around and did't hit the reserve.

Big block and 1 tons? Or keep is closer to the stock look it has going on now?

Do mud guys run smaller tires in the front as a rule? This guy never put it into 4wd except in the mud once but he put 37.5 TSL's in the front and 38.5 boggers in the back. I've seen that combo on a lot of mud runners but never with a dif. tires size. Looks like a great way to tear up the t case. I have that set of 38.5 boggers that I'll be recentering up some of my wheels for to go on this and selling the tires/wheels that are on it but is anyone going to want to buy this set up? Since the fronts are smaller than the rears by 1" I know for rocks etc. it won't work but didn't know about the mud guys?

73 to 87 chevy k20 or 30. Heavier axles and BB would be nice be the 350 can crank out some good power.

just as I read that you are going to buy a chevy, I figure I would read to the end of the thread and post a "BIG YAWN"

If I believed in that kind of thing, I would say someone above was looking out for you.

I would leave the Bronco mostly as is- put some alloy shafts in it, maybe regear it if need be, and enjoy!!

now?
Do mud guys run smaller tires in the front as a rule? This guy never put it into 4wd except in the mud once but he put 37.5 TSL's in the front and 38.5 boggers in the back. I've seen that combo on a lot of mud runners but never with a dif. tires size. Looks like a great way to tear up the t case. I have that set of 38.5 boggers that I'll be recentering up some of my wheels for to go on this and selling the tires/wheels that are on it but is anyone going to want to buy this set up? Since the fronts are smaller than the rears by 1" I know for rocks etc. it won't work but didn't know about the mud guys?

Typicaly the smaller front tires are used to get rid of some rotating weight, frees up alittle HP, and it's easier on axles. most of the time we stager the axle or transfer case ratio to get the tire speed back up to 1%-2% overdriven. In class 3 we go alittle bit to the extreme with it.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=369449056&albumID=464086&imageID=9488817

It's like using 5.43's in the back and 5.39's in the front with your combo. it would bring you out about even with some slight overdrive to keep you straight.

I would definately get rig of the stock rear axleshafts and upgrade to at least 33 spline. but those axles are the way to go.

Ya. To piss the old school bronco guys off. I gave 5100 for it. The guy is sick. I talked with him lastnight. He had it on ebay with a MUCH higher reserve and it lacked 300$ of hitting the reserve. So he put it back on and lowered the reserve to 5000. I bid 5780 as it wasn't exactly what I was looking for but was VERY clean and very cool. I ended up in it for 5100. Called the guy and he has had it only 6 mo. and is sick about how low it sold. I think he must have pissed off all the people that watched it the first time around and did't hit the reserve.



The Market for the old Bronco's has really hit the crapper. 18 months ago that thing would have gone for 10K easily. I am in the market for one - just looking but not in a hurry - waiting for that super deal to come across. That is one pimp bronco.

you suck:flipoff2:

Nice Bronco! I would leave it the way it is and fix as you find out what the weak points are.