Well orginal plan of using an 82 f-150 shortbox got canned (started a build thread in the ford forum, but thought this would be more approiate) and i'm starting with a non-holy 81 f-150 cab and chassis, started the build with having to chip the fawker out of an ice bank:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/706567/fullsize/img_1185.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/706557/fullsize/img_1183.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/706555/fullsize/img_1182.jpg

the victim:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/706569/fullsize/img_1187.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/706568/fullsize/img_1186.jpg

i got this far during the one afternoon i had avaible once i got the truck seperated from the ice:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/706571/fullsize/img_1188.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/706573/fullsize/img_1189.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/706574/fullsize/img_1190.jpg

Didn't get much done other than the hood grabbed the seat and cleaned the cab out, then was able to get the box off, this weekend i'm going to continue to strip the truck to a bare cab and rolling chassis as the next process will be getting the tube bent up for the roll cage by clay at evolution next week, i'm using 1.9" x .145" thick tubing. I want to end up with the body being just there for asethics and keeping me mud free.

I'm using the motor out of the old truck, which is a 400 ford with about 450hp, followed by a race prepped C6 (full reverse manual valve body, 3800ish stall, all the upgraded clutches, etc) and a np205, 1410 joint at the case and 1410 at the axles, which are a hp d60 being regeared to 4.56 with a lockright and 35spl outers and drive flanges, the rear is a sterling 10.25, regeared to 4.56 with a lockright, i'm going to either shave or smooth out the bottoms of both the d60 and the sterling, and i'll be grabbing some junkyard diff covers and making some bash proof covers, no really necessary for the mud but i plan to beat the piss out of it, so just a little insurance.

Suspension will consist of 16" fox coilovers, radius arm/trac bar front and rear, and it'll be built to be adjustable for both height and performance pending changing track conditions, i'll be using evo hiems and bushings on the raduis arms. Thats all for now, look for updates this weekend.

Oh yeah forgot to say since this is a race truck it needs a name, anyone got any ideas?

Got the truck stripped down to nothing but a bare cab and chassis:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/707805/fullsize/img_1204.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/707810/fullsize/img_1206.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/707791/fullsize/img_1199.jpg

the one thing that i've always liked about the fords is the steering column, pedal assembly and brake booster and m/c are a one piece unit, thats very very solid:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/707792/fullsize/img_1200.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/707804/fullsize/img_1203.jpg

It will be getting reused, only mounted to the cage in a more solid/stiffer fashion.

I picked up my tube for the cage and the links today, the cage is 1.900" od x 0.145" thick, suspension links, well due to the material i wanted to used being stupid expensive or a 3wk lead time to get will be from 2.875" od x .250"thick tube, then on the bottom in the center i'm going to take some 2x3 x .250thk tubing and split it in half, then gusset the round tube with this now C-channel, i dunno it may change, but weigth wise its similar to the 2 3/8 od x .432thk tube i wanted to use.

The plan now is the truck is with clayton at evolutionmachine to get the cage bent up (i don't bend enough tube to purchase my own), then i'll get to work with putting that together this next weekend.

Project Mudlife!!!
































































































:laughing:

I AM digging the crate, though :D

If its cool it dosent need a name...:flipoff2:

have you ever thought of running those tires you have under youre grain tank behind youre no till air drill?

Of course it needs a name, everyone thats cool has one :) that said i'm thinking project milk crate :flipoff2:


I was wondering how long it would take before those tire would come up, i could as they're fopr a 16.1 rim, but the class i run requires 38" or smaller DOT non cut tires, i am however working on some wheel adapters to run a skinny 42-46"ish skinny ag tire though.

Tech question :)

I need the comp mud draggers/nhra/ihra/etc guys and gals to chip in here as although i have all the respect in the world for the crawlers and what they build, this is something i feel they won't be able to answer, as its something i don't see built into their rigs, Anyway i'm curious as to the minium requirements for scatter shield thickness, and minimum thickness required for the sheet metal surrounding the driver in case of a torque convertor letting go, or a bad fire?

Reason why i ask is because of where i'm placing the motor (the front accessory drive will now be where the motor and tranny would be typically bolted together on these fords) i want to built the firewall/floor boards to act as a scatter shield of sorts for exploding driveline parts, but for the rest of the floor boards i want to meet min. spec requirements for the most strigent sanctioning bodies out there, but without a huge weight penalty of an overkill floor board, i'm thinking using some 1/8 plate for surrounding the engine and tranny/tc, then i'm unsure of the remaining floor boards, as the factory ones will be chopped out as the entire cab will be made to pull off the chassis without issue, but the floor boards and any shields will be removable seperate from the rest of the body (for servicing and repairs and what not).

Any input?

btw i will be running a scatter shield/blanket on the tranny reguardless of what i build.

I thought i'd toss up a picture of the current race truck while its still in one piece and fully functional:

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/708411/fullsize/img_1193.jpg

if your running an SFI sheild around the bell and a SFI blanket around the tranny, I don't see why the floor board has to also be a scatter sheild??? Typicaly the sheilds are used and the floors ar .040 alum. in national mudracing. Hopefully your not trying to spin stock stuff at 8000r's

Use good billet or molly stuff on the driveline and it shouldn't break. the only thing i've ever had problems with is the rear end ring gear... and that was my fault.

Here's what the MRA has to say about safety. I think they are on top of there game.

Drive train


1. All vehicles must have driveshaft loops.
(A) Driveshaft loops must be of substantial rigid construction. All mounting bolts must be a minimum of 5/16” diameter.

(B) Each driveshaft must have a minimum of 2 loops. If a vehicle has a shaft no longer than 24”, 1 loop, properly centered, will suffice.

(C) Driveshaft loops must be rigidly mounted to frame rails

(D) Loop location is to be no less than 6” and no more than 12” on the solid end of the shaft, and 1” past slider on end with slip joint: or 3 loops must be evenly spaced so that if the slip joint breaks, shaft will not drop.

(E) In addition to the above - All pro-class vehicles are required to have u-joint guards or shielding around all exposed u-joints. . Guards will be 360degree, 3” wide. Guards will be made of ¼” aluminum or 1/8” steel, secured with minimum 5/16” hardware

2. Transmissions must be properly shielded. (NOTE: Non Planetary - gear driven units do not require shielding or blankets (I.e. SCS or Pro-fab units etc.).

(A) Mechanical clutch equipped vehicles must have SFI approved bell housing with block saver plate. Must be installed with approved manufacturer’s hardware.

(B) - All vehicle are required to have a SFI approved Flex plate or Fly wheel)

(C) - All automatic transmission equipped vehicles are required to have a SFI approved transmission safety blanket, SFI approved transmission shield Or SFI Approved transmission case. (It is also recommended that all pro classes install a SFI approved flex plate shield or bell housing).
3. The running gear of each vehicle will be inspected to verify the safety of such critical parts as steering, brakes, welds, tires, and body condition.
4. All chain driven vehicles must have a shield or guard of 1/8” steel (minimum thickness) or ¼” aluminum covering the top and ends of the unit. All Shielding must be securely mounted to the engine or frame structure to contain chain in the event of breakage. (Stock Frame can pass as end cover subject per tech approval).
5. All weight added to race vehicles must be securely attached per tech approval. Added weight must be brought to the attention of the Tech Inspector. (NOTE: All added weight shall be painted white )

Body & Chassis
1. Firewall and floorboard must be of adequate construction to protect driver from engine and driveline components. (.060 steel or aluminum minimum)

2. All Sportsman class vehicles with a soft or removable top must be equipped with a roll bar and two (2) support bars (a 4-point cage is highly recommended). Securely fastened to the vehicle with .060 steel plates at mounting points. Roll Bar mounting plates must to be “welded to” or plates bolted through body with at least 4 ea. Of 3/8” bolts and hardware at each mounting point (4 required). Bars to be a minimum of 1 5/8” x .123 wall mild steel tubing.

3) Manufactured or purchased “show” or “dress” bars mounted in the cab or bed are unacceptable.

4) All roll cages will be made of a minimum of .090 wall steel tube with a minimum diameter of 1 ½.(Exhaust tubing will not be acceptable) Bends must be continuously round with no sharp corners or edges.

5) All pro classes will have a roll cage that will be attached to the frame at a minimum of 4 points. Open cage vehicles will be required to have a cage attached by 6 points to the frame

6) Frames and roll cages will be substantially constructed and designed and must meet approval by the tech officials .

7) All weld joints must conform to approved welding procedures and standards set forth by the ASME (American Society of Mechanical Engineers)

Thanks very much for that info brent, the .060 is exactly what i was curious about, as far as the 1/8 plate, i'm thinking perhaps just around the motor and not the tranny as you say its a bit pointless to have both when only the one is needed, thanks again.

Cool truck man, how about Project Blue Balls, cuz its blue and by the list of the performance parts it will have some serious balls :D lol.

nothing new to update, just a drawing of how i wanna construct the radius arms and what i want to do for the front sheet metal if funds allow for it:

http://www.fiberwerx.com/images/ford/f150/1piece_old_04.jpg

Its not a bad deal for 900 bucks, 1 piece fiberglass front clip, meant for the TT guys in the desert i think it should do fine on the front of my truck (link is here http://www.fiberwerx.com/html/ford/f150/1piece.html)

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/712425/fullsize/link.jpg

the tubing is some2.5nps 1/4" the box tubing with be some 1.5x3x3/16 material, one end will be sliced off, and the round tube will be cut so the box tube now c-channel can be shoved inside and then welded to the round tube where it goes through, then again on the top i'll cut holes so i can weld it to the tub from the top side as well, it'll make it fairly heavy, bout the same as some 2.5od x1/2" thick stuff, but a shitload stiffer as i plan on doing some freestyle stuff and i don't want them to bend, and i'll probably mount the coilovers to the radius arms, we'll see how that works though, may be to much movement in the arms with the hiems at the frame end to do that though.

Starting to get excited, cage is going to be bent up next week, and i'll start on the cage next weekend.

That said i need to start looking for a few parts and since times are tight i wanna do it on the cheap, to show how little is needed to build something great, sooo that said what i'm looking for are a buttload of bushings, something with a 1.5" od and at least room for a 1/2 bolt, next is a set of collectors for DIY headers,for 3.5"/2" diameter pipes, and some ideas for making a system to have the bushing on a 1" stud?

I better get subscribed to this so I can keep track of your progress. Looking good so far!

Nice looking project. Looks like you pulled it out of a Ford graveyard! :flipoff2:

ford graveyard . . . . . . . . . we call our backyard the plane wreck lol, yeah i had a fair number of carcesses to choose from, this one was the most strip and least abused, so it got pick for a new lease on life.

Haha thats awesome man. Always nice to have spare parts laying around. :dustin:

quick little update and maybe some inCage is all bent up and looking good, haven't had a chance to start putting it together as other things have come up.

Anyway, i recently picked up a dana 60 out of an 02 f-350 for another possible project but it didn't pan out, so i have a spare axle. What does the almighty PBB think, should i keep it, put it in the rear of the truck, i'd swap the tubes so the pumpkin would be on the driver side. As far as strength, its comp mud. and i'm only running 38's max, so should i run front and rear steer 60's?

Bumpity, thought i'd update the thread, anyway, motor build with vids is here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=801615

I dunno how i managed it but was able to get it tossed into the ttc 2010 top 50 voting, so if the stars align just right and pigs start to fly i may get to go, soo all should pick up a mag and mail in a vote for me :) (# 6).

Anywayone change i'm making is that i'm going to try and run a toploader 4sp till i can afford to build a tranny the way i want too, as the finds have gone the way of the doo doo, but yeah the plans are this weekend to start hacking up the body and start working on the cage.

Nice! Did you get that prerunner looking fiberglass front clip? That looked pretty awesome and shaves weight off right where you need it.

Oh, and you should call it "MudButt" :D

Oh, and you should call it "MudButt"

Sorry to disappoint your gay fairy fanatasies :flipoff2:, but I might actually name it Runnin Wild, cause i've come up with a pretty neat graphic for it.


The front clip will come eventually, but i may end up going with a full circle track fiberglass body, as for the front clip and cab its not that much more money than the prerunner front clip by itself, so we'll see. One other thing I was gonna mention was that I may look into an air/co2 assisted clutch/shifting mechanism (i have an idea rolling around in my head), basiclly if the toploader works, what i'm going to look into is essentially hooking up a high pressure/high speed air cyclinder to the clutch linkage to engage it while i shift, if it works it'll be pretty neat, but it has to be reliable and totally inpedent of the clutch pedal.

So finally made some progress on the truck and cage work:

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-sjc1/hs333.snc3/29268_10150185431845282_786780281_12495474_1395944 _n.jpg

Did some minor trimming for the cage work . . . .


http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs342.ash1/29268_10150185431860282_786780281_12495475_8014377 _n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs342.ash1/29268_10150185431865282_786780281_12495476_6398303 _n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs342.ash1/29268_10150185431875282_786780281_12495478_1992486 _n.jpg

Lots left to do on the cage, i figured that i'd do it this way, seperate from the truck at first so i could get all the major support in and welded easily without issue, then join it with the frame and add in extra supports as need. With any luck I'll be able to get the cage wrapped up by this sunday, and that would be welded, and mounted and t's crossed and i's dotted. Now outside of fabbing up solid motor mounts, i may just swap the current powertrain (the new motor and old tranny and tc) and leaf springs in, as funds have been tight (took a month and a half off before i start a new job to help with spring seeding on the family farm), and just get it running as i don't fully trust the old truck for another seaon of racing, we will see.

Not much to update, traded up in rubber sizes, went from 38's to 39.5's, and tossed on a dominator carb, needs some smaller squirter on the accelerater pump, hopefully once my new work schedule gets me on shift asap i'll be able to get some progress made on this. Also had my first race of the season:

YouTube - 00052.MTS (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vDYEQFxunsg)