Instead of fixing my broken Alcan leaf pack, I'm debating on just going SOA in the rear for the time being.

I can't weld, (and I know it takes a BIG welder to do spring perches right!) so I'm going to be bringing it to Moorefield..

I wanted to use 55 springs with slink strips, but he said he hasn't seen much improvement over using stock 40 springs w/ the strips. (or course, turned around for the added WB)

I don't see any harm in doing the 55's, and it's just going to require new rear hangars (mine are welded on), so we're talking maybe an additional $35 in labor + the hangar cost (can't be THAT much, can they?)

So, for the extra cash, is it worth it... it won't give me any added wheelbase over reversed 40 springs, will it? (Don't think so, just checking)

55 springs will give you:

1. Longer Wheelbase
2. Better Flex
3. Softer Ride

Yes they are worth it!

Dave, I don't think I'll get more wheelbase.. my current springs are reversed...

I looked at Ih8mud (as always), and Brian addressed the pinion angle issue, which is a selling point...

But Dave, don't tell me "better flex".. HOW MUCH better is my question.

This is on a budget, so I'm not going to go too drastic and have to re-work the driveshaft (again). It's only 40 or 55 springs.. no F100's yet!

Ah yes...if you already flipped your rears than wheelbase is not a plus...all of the guys I know who have the 55 springs love them, and say that they had more flex after the swap and their rig rode smoother after the swap. As to how much better flex...sorry, someone who has done the swap will need to chime in and answer that for you!
You said you went to IH8MUD.COM, did you read Woody's write-up on the swap? His article should answer all of your questions.:D

well since your SUA with a lift ANY flattish/longer spring is gonna flex better when you go SOA.
the 55's are longer with a centered pin, i think you gain about 1.5" over stock w/b? so you'll be losing some,,i dont have a 40 i'm the 55 contingent:flipoff2:
but since a longer spring will flex better, the F150's will be even better than 55's. since you gotta go through the motions anyway why not go F150 now??

Can't go F150... no $$ to re-do the driveshaft as if I do a LONG spring like that, I'm going to move the rear axle rearwards more.

Brian didn't go from FJ40 SOA to FJ55 SOA, so that's how come I don't know HOW much better it is.. but i'll probably push for it anyway.

If I remember right, aren't 55 rears like 47"? I guarantee you the 55s will flex and ride softer than 40s. I have been running custom springs on mine so long I wouldn't know a 40 spring if I tripped over it in the junk yard, but I think they are a good 5/6 inches shorter than the 55s. I have longer than stock springs front and rear and there is no comparison to stock 40 springs in SOA config...Go longer if you can.:beer:

yeah 47" sounds about right i would go measure mine but i'm in for the night, i think they definitly will ride and flex better than what you have now. 55 spriings are definitly worth it, but i dont know if its worth all the work just for a temp thing, if the D shaft is all that keeping you from 150's it wont be long. dont know about there but a simple retube(lengthen of D shaft) is only $100 here and he gives me $30 for each core i bring him, my last two shafts were free.

Cool guys, I appreciate the replies...

Up front, the way he does the SO's, we max out 9012's in both directions with 40 springs, so I can't see much of a reason for going 55 up front.. but the rear, I'd like to get as much as I can back there..

I wouldn't call what I'm doing "temporary", since the only reason I'd change springs would be when the t-case gets changed and I need new D/S's anyway... I.e. if I need another 3" length for a 203/205 doubler, or something like that.

I'll push for the 55 springs... Can't wait for my first taste of the :vader: side!

They are worth it......the 3.0 kit for the 205 is a better choice for you than a doubler....

Didn't think the 3.0 was out yet?

EDIT: Sounds like Phil hasn't said yay or nay on it... I'm praying to the cruiser gods that it will be a reality! Some of these guys get so caught up in crawl ratios...

"What's your crawl ratio?"
"Enough to get up that rock"

But I do long for lower crawl sometimes.. OK, I'm 53:1... 80:1 would be perfect methinks with 35's/small 38's..

Originally posted by Eskimo
I wanted to use 55 springs with slink strips, but he said he hasn't seen much improvement over using stock 40 springs w/ the strips. (or course, turned around for the added WB)

I've done mine just like Brian did, using the graphite based paint!! I've also considered throwing the slinky strips in as well, but have opted not to yet!



I don't see any harm in doing the 55's, and it's just going to require new rear hangars (mine are welded on), so we're talking maybe an additional $35 in labor + the hangar cost (can't be THAT much, can they?)

I used the same rear hanger, using the exact same approach that Brian used. Mine were also welded on, but a little plasma cutter action and then flip and weld!!

So, for the extra cash, is it worth it... it won't give me any added wheelbase over reversed 40 springs, will it? (Don't think so, just checking)

That alone probably wont if you're already flipped in the rear!! The long side of the 40 springs is 3.5 inches longer than the short. The 55 springs are symmetrical, each side as long as the long side of the 40 - hence the extra 3.5 inches!

That 3.5 inches is gonna help fit the SM420 and ToyBox!! But I imagine I will still have to address the driveline issues with other than a stock shaft - probably just go with a CV and custom shaft and, as Nolen says, "be done with it!":D

My SO should be done next Tue/Wed, and I should have pics by next weekend (fingers crossed!!) Damn work schedule keeps getting in the way!!

You were not SOA with the alcans, so who knows how the wheelbase of the reversed Alcanswill compare with the stock FJ55 springs. Plus are you going to rotate the rear pinion up? Changes in lift height(SUA alcans vs. SOA FJ55) can change driveshaft length. All of these factors can cause the driveshaft to need to be modified even with just going to a SOA suspension from your Alcan.

Just my opinon, but do the suspension the way you seem to want it(SOA FJ55 springs) and get the driveshaft modified. Seems like a waste to modify the suspension around keeping a driveshaft from a $100 lengthening...just to do it later.

-Brett

We know the wheelbase as he's done it with his own cruiser.. He was formerly on the same suspension I am..

Fortunately, my driveshaft is already modified, and will work just fine with a SOA... again, 'cuz he's done it.

Oh, the 55 spring pack are first cleaned up and painted, THEN the slinky strips go in... those strips are awesome... I'm actually thinking of putting them in my 2wd Tacoma DD to soften up the rear...

Thanks all for the help... I'm freakin psyched about getting some good flex back there... The front doesn't do THAT bad right now, but the rear frankly sucks.

Now..after the front SO.. 38x12.50 TSL, or 38x12.50 TSL SX... hmmm.. can't wait!

For many years I was very unhappy with my rear suspension. All I wanted was for it to work as good as my front (about 24" of wheel travel). I finally a few years ago put some FJ55 springs on it and probably gained about 3 inches more wheel travel! So I was still unhappy with. Then I designed some pivoting shackles that gave me about 6 or so inches of more droop, so now I had about 15" of droop and like 8" of compression (give or take). Needless to say, my front end still kicked ass over the rear end.

Solution?......1/4 eliptic!!!!;)

..

Thanks Jeff... that's more engineering than I have budget for right now, but it will help for those who search next time the question comes up...

he just wanted to bragg......jakass!!!!:flipoff2:

Yeah, I am prety happy with the new suspension!

Was at ProRocks all weekend....but back now...

I ran reversed FJ40 spring packs in the rear then switched to the FJ55 rear packs later (availbility issues). While I never measured the difference in travel between the two, I would make that change again. The real issue is in now the springs arc....having a shorter shackle-side of the leaf versus the solid-side is what limits flex...FJ55 rear packs address this length issue . Additionally, the rotation of the rear pinion is different with the longer packs, and IMO, the rotation is incorrect with the FJ40 reversed packs in there. (look around...I have yet to find a factory spring setup where the solid end is longer than the shackle end....car or truck....they are either equal or the shackle-side is longer, like FJ40 packs are 3.5" 'longer' on the shackle side now.)

ALL that said, I may be pulling my rear packs this winter. Have to wait for pics to see whats going in next....and no, they aren't for sale either...

AND, I know SpaceGhost is starting a SUA waggie project this week, so stay tuned...

The pinion angle is one of the big selling points to me.

Although the anti-wrap bars he uses aren't the best idea from a physics standpoint, they work, and don't limit flex, so I'm gonna run 'em. (Basically 2 bars mounted above each leaf spring, with some joints and such...they work)

Brian, again, thanks for your site... invaluable!

or do what the mini truck guys do and leave the hanger where it is and make a longer kicked back shackle. mine is about 7 inches long, runs at a 45 angle and allows for a ton more droop. this assumes your springs are not super arched. we have done two rigs like this before and they work awesome.