Ok, so I've got this '64 Jeep FC-150. I'm not looking to restore it but rather make it an everyday driver that I can also take into the hills (Not hardcore crawling). I've decided on a Chevy 4.3 for the engine swap and after using the calculators on novak-adapt.com, I think I'm going to keep the BW T90 transmission and the Dana Model 18 transfer case. I think they should be just fine for what I need. I'm pretty sure I have Dana 44's front and back, but this is where I need some direction. I would rather have disc brakes, but I don't know which way to go about doing it. Does anyone know if I can just get a whole brake system off another vehicle and get it to work with my axles or mix and match for that matter? Also, I don't know whether to go with a power brake system or one that would work if the engine shut off. I'm open to any opinions so don't be afraid to tell me what you think.

I've always wanted to make a cab-over camper out of one of these...

Once I get it going, it will be my weekend getaway vehicle. I've thought of making more or less a canvas "wagon" tent for the back. ....funny you mentioned that.

I have never seen one up close, but from pictures it looks like the dog house might be a bit narrow for a V6.

I have never seen one up close, but from pictures it looks like the dog house might be a bit narrow for a V6.

X2.. This 1962 FC-170 has the inline 6 in it and the alternator is only ab an inch from the dog house. It will be tight fitting a V6.This one had a 44 up front and 70 rear. 3spd tranny d18 transfer with pto. If you want a T-98 4spd out of one, i have one i will part with. Good luck with your build.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg151/chevyman12212007/P1010237.jpg

Could always stroke a 98+ 4.0L block if you wanted more power, then go with the 12 counterweight 258 crank for more torque, and a ported and polished 7120 heads, with 99+ intake manifold and your choice of header, get some bombproof MORE motor mounts and fab it up to the frame... It's been done a few times :D , and it really isn't that big of deal anymore...

Might be able to squeeze a Cummins 4bta in there, you might have to remote mount the turbo though... don't know for sure.

I don't think I have seen an FC with a stroker, and I don't think I've seen a Cummins Powered FC... so either way it would be original...

I read about one with a 300/6 Ford in it also, find one out of an 80s F150 and you'll have fuel injection.

Could always stroke a 98+ 4.0L block if you wanted more power, then go with the 12 counterweight 258 crank for more torque, and a ported and polished 7120 heads, with 99+ intake manifold and your choice of header, get some bombproof MORE motor mounts and fab it up to the frame... It's been done a few times :D , and it really isn't that big of deal anymore...

Might be able to squeeze a Cummins 4bta in there, you might have to remote mount the turbo though... don't know for sure.

I don't think I have seen an FC with a stroker, and I don't think I've seen a Cummins Powered FC... so either way it would be original...

Yeah. I thought about it but the 4bt won't fit. If you look in the dog house you'll notice that the engine sits behind and just over the front axle. The 4bt is too tall and a little too wide for the opening. It would be sweet though! I even looked at putting a VW 2.0 TDI in it, but they want like 3 - 4000 for one.

Sounds like the search is narrowing... have you considered fabbing up a larger dog house, and opening? How much wiggle room do you have to play with?

Nah, I'm not afraid to change the doghouse to make a better engine fit. There will be a 2-1/2 inch lift on it which will help a little. The measurements of the compartment opening is 26 long x 23 wide in back x 16 wide in front. Here is a link to some pictures I took this morning, so you all know what I'm working with.
http://picasaweb.google.com/heapsian/FC150?feat=directlink
Still, My main question for this thread was dealing with the drum brakes on the current axles. I want to switch them for disc but don't really know where to start.

Check this out- http://bb.bc4x4.com/showth.php?t=123204
This guy installed a diesel and auto trans from a Mercedes car into his FC

Check this out- http://bb.bc4x4.com/showth.php?t=123204
This guy installed a diesel and auto trans from a Mercedes car into his FC
Link doesn't work

There is a way to convert the front to disks on a closed knuckle dana44, using chevy parts. it was done in an older JP mag I plan on doing it to my 61 FC-170

Some came with three cylinder 170 cubic-inch Cerlist diesel engine, others like mine originally ran on lpg I think it was forest service...

WARNING THREAD JACK
......it now has a SBC hacked into it (I'm in the process of making it somewhat more legit :bounce:). The dude I bought it from hacked a dog house together with plywood and fiberglass :shaking: When he wired it he used one color RED :mad3:

the brakes before were shot after the rebuild they lock up and hold after touching the pedal once.....check valve somewhere I recon

I also need to relocate the alternator...(its 1" from the front axle)

(But what can I expect from a $500 truck)
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l131/jeeperman19/jeepfc.jpg

I found an article from JP. I don't know if it's the same one you were thinking of but it helps me.
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_0704_early_jeep_disk_brake_conversion/index.html

I read about one with a 300/6 Ford in it also, find one out of an 80s F150 and you'll have fuel injection.

that would be my recommendation - the block will probably fit, and the 300 ford is just about the best I-6 ever made. It will be far less expensive than supercharging or going with hesco aluminum heads (which I have heard don't have the best rep for power production).

yep 300ci, 4.9L Ford. that would be badass.

i think they made them up until 93-94. I had one in my 74 F-100 and my 92 F-150.

Sorry about the link, try this http://bb.bc4x4.com/showthread.php?t=123204

Still, My main question for this thread was dealing with the drum brakes on the current axles. I want to switch them for disc but don't really know where to start.

I suspect what I did on my D25 in my flatfender will be similar to what you will need to do on your FC. I would venture a guess you have a D27 not a D44 up front, but in any case, the conversion should be similar if not identical.

This is similar to the JP thread.... but a lot more long winded :D

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8417568#post8417568

Very interested to see your build/project take shape! Another motor you might consider, how about a 1.9 VW diesel (preferably TDI). Might be a little more affordable than the 2.0. Otherwise I kind of think the 4.0 might be a great choice... dirt cheap, it will probably fit okay, and will have 'enough' power even bone stock with 100k on it.

So, I've been looking around on how to identify a D27. Can't find any info so far. Anybody have a trick up their sleeve? I need to just get underneath the body and scrape the 50 years of crap off. Should I be concerned if it is a D27?

I'm not too familiar with the 4.0, but this is the problem I have with choosing an engine: Even though the VW (even the 1.9) sounds awesome, it will end up costing more than I want because I have to get an adapter from acme which starts at $400 plus the cost of a toyota transmission. The 4.0, I just don't know about. I think it would end up being too long since it's an inline 6. I checked the measurements on a 4.3 at one time and thought it would work. Because it is on a CJ5 frame I have limited length as well.
If I have to I can open the size of the engine compartment but would rather increase the width than the length because I have a third seat that I would like to keep in the middle.
Are the Jeep and Ford I6 engines the same thing?
Sorry guys, I know quite a bit but I'm no mechanic.

First off Jeep engines other than the Buicks used in the mid 60s are Jeep engines they are not Ford, or Chrysler. Jeep did use other manufactures transmissions, and ignitions add that to the fact that Ford and Dodge had a 360CI engine and you can understand why most Jeep owners dread going to the parts stores and have to deal with the mouth breather behind the counter, but I digress. Here is a web page to help you out.

http://www.wagoneers.com/FSJ/tech/Engines/swapchart.html

For general early-5 type tech and questions you might also want to check out http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/index.php

Second place I'd look, for adapters and lots of good transmission info is here.
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/knowledge_gateway.htm

To answer your D27 question, well, there are some differences between it and the D25 (ring gear size, tube differences? knuckle differences) but they are all minor. They share a lot of internal parts, have the same differential cover, which is also the same (as far as I can tell) as a D30. It will look very similar to your rear D44 cover, but it will be smaller (assuming your rear is a D44 and your front is not). Second thing, if you scrape the gunk down you should be able to find a small number 25, 27, etc on one of the webs between the diff and the axle tubes. Not sure if it's front/back or top/bottom, but it should be there somewhere.

Personally I think it's laughable to let a $500 adapter have much sway on your engine choice. When this is all said and done the $500 is so in the noise it's not even funny. If you're not a mechanic and don't plan to become one during this swap, well... I hope you've got friends that work for beer!

Thanks for the info on the D27, but I guess I still don't know if it's something I should swap out with another axle or just leave it in for my dual purpose use?
Now, I didn't mean to make myself sound like a desk jockey with a pocket protector pushing my glasses up. I was implying that I've just not done this before, although I now how everything works.
What I meant about the adapter is this: If I was to get the VW the cost of a 1.9 is about $1800, plus the $400 adapter (for use with engine without turbo), plus the cost of a Toyota transmission (22r style is only thing that will work with their kit). I've contacted Advanced Adapters and they don't have anything that will allow the VW to mate with a GM application. Now compare that to the 4.3 I'm thinking of at a cost of $600 plus rebuild kits for the BW T90 and the D18 transfer case at about $300 for both.
My budget is somewhat small so I'll take the lesser of the two in order to get to the mountains and get dirty. I'll save up and put a diesel in later.

I've been reading up on the 4.0 and people are saying the torque curve is better than the V6. My friend has a Cherokee with one in it and that s.o.b will climb anything. You may be changing my mind...

Some guy around here put a D-max in an FC. Was a crap load of work. But if you make yourself a new doghouse/floor you can throw anything you want in that thing.

Lets look at it this way:

1st: What Tires do you want to have on it?
2nd: How tall do you want it to sit?
3rd: Do you want it to look stock-ish or not care too much if the tires stick out?


If you are staying with the stock wheelbase and narrow axles, than I would think that 33-35s are a practical limit. Those will be just fine on a Dana 44 rear, but I would upgrade to an open knuckle Dana 30.

If you are OK going to wider axles, then I would go maybe to a matched pair of wagoneer axles from a quadratrac (to get the offset rear). Depends on how wide you want to go. Late model XJ stuff would be nice for 33s, too, but you'd need to switch your T-case configuration.

Now, engine wise, a 4.3 TBI V6 is very easy to setup and dirt cheap. Ditch the T-90 and get 4 speed, though, IMO. An SM420 would be ideal, or the larger SM465, then reuse your dana 18. I'm guessing the engine is a good bit forward from where they are in the CJs so rear driveshaft shouldn't be a problem.

I'm dropping a 4.3 TBI / SM465 / D300 into my CJ3b, let me know if there are any specifics you need measurements on. Even though they are a V6, they aren't any shorter than a 4 cyl.

A 60* V6 from a camaro, like a 3800 would probably be narrower.

You are right on track with what I would want. I like the look of a wider axle and tires. I'll see if I can find some at the local yard.

The major problem that I'm facing is that the tranny either needs to be a side shift, like the T-90 I've got, or an automatic because I don't think I can rig a top mount to work since it's right underneath the bed of the truck.

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/dwMnknT-zat8JlVJjyBSdA?feat=directlink
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TrhH_DfgKVbVGySDhvHvgQ?feat=directlink

You can see the two bed mounts on the side, now just imagine the bed on top of the transmission.

I've looked at the TH350 because I've heard good things about it but I think it'll be too long. Here are the rough measurements from the bell housing that I currently have. Maybe this will help with the picture I'm trying to build.

Front of bell to front of transfer case 15-1/4''
Front of transfer case to middle of yoke 9-1/4''
Yoke to yoke (driveshaft) 19''
Total of about 43-1/2''

It might be just me thinking that it's a short span for the driveshaft.

The T-98 That i have is a top shift but it has slots for a flat mounted shifter that is used in an FC.
It is identical to this one.
http://www.film.queensu.ca/cj3B/Photos/Reunion2003/EsdaleFC170DRWTranny.JPG

For anyone who might want to know about identifying Dana axles, I found these two links that might be helpful.

http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/gear1.html
http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/axle.html#AMC

This guy has just about anything you may need, I bought lots from him.

http://www.willysjeepparts.com/

Alright! I'm getting the T98 that chevyman12212007 had extra. :D It should work perfect and will give me a lower 1st gear.

Now, I thought about what Haggar said a couple posts ago and decided to go find some axles. I found a couple D44's from a wagoneer that aren't too pricey. They don't know what the gear ratios are yet but they will be finding out for me. I was shooting for a 3.73 or a 4.10. What would you guys choose?

So after your help this is what I've decided on.

Engine: 2000 4.3 V6 (because I like the power, economy, and there's a cheap one available)
Transmission: BW T-98 (Gears: 6.40, 3.09, 1.69, 1)
Transfer case: Dana Spicer 18 (that I currently have I think it's a 2.46:1 ratio)
Axles: Dana 44's front and back. (from wagoneer for a wider stance)
Tires: I'm thinking 31X10.50's because they will fit and I don't want to chop up the body to fit a larger tire. (33's would be titties though)

Now for what else I need to plan:

A Warn or Saturn overdrive: Anybody have or know of one for sale?
A locker: I like the idea of the Eaton Elocker because I don't have to worry about compressors and other parts that could break. What would you do?
Exhaust: I don't even know where to start or what brands to use.
Paint: One of the last things but I would like to know what you all would paint your jeep.

From the bottom first ,I'd primer sparingly around the existing paint to leave that super bitchen rat rod paint job it has now ,or use a flat ,quality paint around ,but again leave the patina it has .

Your front is a Dana 44 ,though old, obsolete and weak. Those Waggy axles will be 6 lug ,if that's OK with you .

An overdrive would be the nats ass in that .

Look into an Auburn ECTED instead of the Eaton , it's limited slip all the time ,then a locker (exactly like the Eaton or ARB)when you juice it up.

Someone mentioned a Camaro 3800 v-6 , that is the best fit for your engine bay and they are a fantastic engine in there own right ,it's one of my all time favs.The goodest ones would be in 93 and later Camaro's ,which you could probably find for free (whole car).It uses the infamous Chevy 60 degree bell housing and came as sticks.You get fuel injection ( will still run when it rolls end over end at a stop sign )and no damned distributor .It is very short and narrow.

Saginaw 3 speed overdrive mounted to 4 speed trany

http://www.chevytrucks.org/tech/overdrive.htm

I'm entertaining the thought of the 3.8 V6 (same as 3800 right?). I found one that's a little cheaper than the 4.3 I was looking at and I like the idea of the engine taking up less space in the doghouse. I've been trying to figure out how to mate the 3.8 to the T98. I don't think it's a direct bolt up configuration. I've also looked at AA to find an adapter plate. Nothing. The other thing I'm not quite sure about is if it will make a difference that it would be coming out of a car with the transverse setup. Any direction would be appreciated...

BTW pyrocrat....I did take this thing up and down a large dirt pile in the back yard last year. Scary as hell! :eek: It wasn't going to flip but looking out the front window and not seeing a hood makes you think otherwise. ...It's kinda like a steerable roller coaster. I guess that's what makes it all the more fun.

I don't think there are many people out there with an FC, but for anyone who's interested I found two great sites that have some good info on them.

http://books.google.com/books?id=zTsAbTJB5RIC&pg=PA116&lpg=PA116&dq=fc150+axles&source=web&ots=xpLArJg3J2&sig=mbzRey7y80XmNpiXomI-9GrAMjE&hl=en&ei=Q6-TSabFAoGStQO8pumwBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=5&ct=result#PPA118,M1

http://jp.automotive.com/25969/157-0705-1956-jeep-fc-150/index.html

There are a couple more....:flipoff2:
http://www.thefcconnection.com/fc_gallery.htm
www.Fcjeep.com

Yeah, we're like the last of the mohicans! :D ...or a retarded step child.
Thanks for the link to that gallery. I've seen it before but never noticed the items for sale link. There is one for a replacement windshield that I'll need.

Wish you woulda started this thread about 6 months ago. The local scrap yard just got the last 3 Fc's here. there were prob alot of parts you could've used. such as the shifter for the 4 speed. :flipoff2:

I've seen a couple 150's in bad shape at a couple yards around here. I'll keep my eye out for a 170 for the linkages. Or make my own.

I think i have part of it but im not sure i will have to check to make sure.

My Dad put a 283 Chevy in a FC170 in the early 60's. He was a Jeep dealer and had sold the FC to a local doctor who was also a family friend. The doctor wanted more power, so my Dad devised a way to make the V8 fit.

I don't remember all the details(I was about 9 yrs old at the time), but I know that he made the engine easily removable for service. He welded the motor mounts to a piece of angle iron nestled on top of another piece of angle. Then he put 2 bolts thru the angle on each side.(one each front and rear) When the engine needed service, they removed the grill, unbolted the driveshafts at the u-joints, unhooked the battery cable and throttle linkage, removed the 4 bolts and slid the engine, transmission, and transfer case assembly forward as a unit to be worked on...

Much easier than working in a crowded doghouse.

My Dad also drove a FC170 a lot when I was a kid. I rode to school many a snowy morning sitting on the doghouse in what we called the "high truck"

If you have any questions about the FCs' my dad is still living, and his memory is sharp,(although he says it isn't) and I would be happy to call him and ask him for his input.

That's an original idea. The only thing I don't get is how they removed a grill from it when the grill is part of the body... You know, I would really like to see a working FC170. I know that the 150 is based on a CJ5 frame where the 170 is based on a Wagoneer frame, or something like that. I bet you could fit a 4BT in one of those.

I've thought about making a tilt cab so I could reach the engine, radiator, and linkages easier...but I don't know...

Here's a link to one that's been done. Pretty bad ass.
http://www.thefcconnection.com/craig_brockhaus_1961_fc-150_tilt_cab_features.htm

There is another idea I've been tossing around. I'll be converting it to power steering. The following is what I'm unsure about:

When you sit in the driver's seat, the steering column runs at somewhere around a 80 degree angle towards the floor. The steering shaft happens to go right between the clutch and brake pedals. This makes it a little hard to move your feet around on the pedals (not to mention I wear a size 14). What I would like to do is change the approach of the steering column.

I was thinking of creating a steering wheel that has a more modern feel (pointing towards your chest) cuz I don't want to feel like I'm driving a school bus. The plan was to have the rod go towards the front of the cab, hit a set of bevel gears to transfer the movement 90 degrees towards the floor, then either a combo of u-joints or bevel gears to to transfer the movement to the steering box. This would make the steering a little more comfortable and clear some room for my feet. BTW, I'll be fabricating a custom fiberglass dash with my father's help. I won't be adapting the steering to the stock one.

Is this a bad idea? I don't know if it would end up having too much play in the wheel.

I'll put pictures of the current set up on here shortly.

A Warn or Saturn overdrive: Anybody have or know of one for sale?
A locker: I like the idea of the Eaton Elocker because I don't have to worry about compressors and other parts that could break. What would you do?


Sounds like a decent plan to me... I was going through the same decision as you on the elocker vs ected vs ARB vs OX vs ??.

My personal opinion is that the ARB is the best of the bunch, but also the most expensive and most complicated to install (but not by a large margin). Having looked at the design of the Elocker, it looks like something that was designed to self destruct. Example, if you are driving forward with it locked and you stop, then roll backwards, it will (as far as I can tell) unlock then lock back up as the balls roll down the ball ramp and back 'up' the other side. So for example if you were trying to rock out of a hole the thing would actually be engaging itself just at the wrong time. It would be sort of akin to being stuck in a hole, rocking back, rocking forward and then hitting the lock button after you had moved forward about a foot. (if you had an ARB).

Well that's all theory, practice says that when you push the button, it's for all intensive purposes, locked. When you turn it off, it's unlocked, and overall it's easier to hook up than an ARB. I figure the same locker is in an H2 with way more power, weight (and I'd assume a monkey behind the wheel) and I haven't read much about them blowing out easily.

I think the ECTED is a neat design for a rig that spends a majority of it's time onroad or in 'loose' dirt conditions. As far as I can tell it was designed for OEM's to use for traction control solutions, I have to wonder just how much abuse it could take before the clutches start to wear out. But the idea of having a variable limited slip/locker is kinda cool.

Anyway, for my trail and street flatty I chose the Elocker, but it's also still sitting on my workbench.

I wouldn't be surprised if those D44's had 3.50's or even 3.07(?)'s. If you plan to get an OD I would probably go with 4.10's on the 31's.. that should work pretty well with 33's too when you decide to upgrade later.
4.10, 31's, OD = 2100rpm at 60.

You could always just run them open/as is and then make your decision later. I'm sure you could pull a 3.07 gear just fine even with 33's.

When it comes time to regear I'd see if you can't find some genuine Spicer gears. They're getting harder to get and more expensive, but if you keep looking you can find them for about the price of the cheap aftermarket ones--or even buy used I suppose.

I'd try swap meets and craigslist for an OD...

Herm Tilford www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com also sells new and reman ones. His rebuild prices are very reasonable, $30 flat fee plus parts. He tends to replace everything that is even remotely questionable when he does a basic rebuild, so expect to spend a few hundred (at a minimum) if you go that route. One more thing I learned, you can cram an OD into a $8 priority box and ship it anywhere in the country for that price.

The plan was to have the rod go towards the front of the cab, hit a set of bevel gears to transfer the movement 90 degrees towards the floor, then either a combo of u-joints or bevel gears to to transfer the movement to the steering box.

You might want to take a look at some 'modern' forward control vans. The 1980's toyota van and Previa come to mind. I thought one or both of those had a similar device in them somewhere?

Great idea. I didn't even think of looking at those vans. I was going to stop by the local yard and look at how the Isuzu's had their setup, but a smaller van would work much better.

The axles...I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do. None of my ideas are set in stone yet, hence: "Making blueprint for FC150". I found out that both the front and rear I currently have are D44's. They are older and probably too weak for a rock crawler or majority offroad vehicle but since it will be mostly a street vehicle I might still use them. (I hope I don't sound like a wussy on this website). I've figured out that it would cost a whole lot less for me to get some spacers and have a proportionate axle width with 31's than buy two other axles and size them down. The gearing currently in them is 5.38! The crawl ratio would be about 84 if I kept them. I'd rather switch them out for 4.10's though. I did manage to grab a OD from chevyman. Sweet! I can't wait to start the build.

I found out that both the front and rear I currently have are D44's. They are older and probably too weak for a rock crawler or majority offroad vehicle but since it will be mostly a street vehicle I might still use them. (I hope I don't sound like a wussy on this website). I've figured out that it would cost a whole lot less for me to get some spacers and have a proportionate axle width with 31's than buy two other axles and size them down. The gearing currently in them is 5.38! The crawl ratio would be about 84 if I kept them. I'd rather switch them out for 4.10's though. I did manage to grab a OD from chevyman. Sweet! I can't wait to start the build.

Really?? Wait, really? I had no idea they made a narrow front D44 from the factory... I assume it's a closed knuckle 10 spline arrangement like a D25/27 from the same vintage?

I think for your intended use those axles will be fine. The big drawback to them is that they are most likely 10 or 19 spline. Okay, for some that's a strength liability (but I'm not sure it will be a big problem for your application) but the other problem is that it really limits your locker choices. If you've got the money, by all means, I'd run a selectable locker! I understand that ARB did at one time make a 19 spline locker, maybe you can still get the side gears for it and alter a newer one... or find one used somewhere... but these days it's pretty much all 30 spline that I could find. You can get lockrights and some limited slips in both 10 and 19 spline though.

There are some options out there for 30 spline on your existing rear axle, Herm makes a FF kit... (and Warn used to make one) or you might be able to get some custom axles made. For all I know you already have a FF rear axle... do you? Keeping the old two piece axles and converting them to a 30 spline is a little harder than it sounds... you'd think you could just order up some custom axles but I have yet to find someone who had that work out. I think the problem stems from the way Dana preloaded the wheel bearings through the axle shafts... it's just a little different than what they do these days. I'm sure a competent machinist could fix you up, but I have yet to find a readily available aftermarket solution.

I think custom 30 spline axles for the front would be pretty straightforward.

5.38's wouldn't be the end of the world with the V6. You'd be doing well over 3000rpm at 60--not ideal--but I'm not sure if it's really a problem. I guess it depends on how you want to use it. IE, just driving to the trail and farting around town, or do you plan to take legitimate long distance road trips? Offroad I think it'd be great.

Hey, another option, have you considered keeping the F head? They suck gas and don't make a lot of power, but there is something cool about running a vintage motor. Shoot, the F head is a fireball, er 'hurricane' compared to the flathead in my jeep :D

So I've been collecting parts and making the plans (The crate just came in today with the T98 and Warn Overdrive!) Things are starting to look like I'll actually get to start working soon.

But.......
I thought of something that hadn't crossed my mind yet. A wiring kit. I got looking around and complete harnesses for a CJ5 are running somewhere between $350 and $600.

I'm not sure what to look for because this isn't just a replacement project. I'll have an engine that's not stock (don't know if that matters), there was basically nothing that used power in the FC-150, and I'd like to add a couple of things like a different HVAC unit, radio, extra lights, etc.

Do you have any ideas? I'm not opposed to forking out some money for a kit that would work but I'm not opposed to saving money and making my own kit either.

I would buy an after market universal kit and rewire it my self

I would buy an after market universal kit and rewire it my self

Would you recommend a certain company?

its the 4.3 Chevy v6?

Howell and Painless would be my call

its the 4.3 Chevy v6?

Howell and Painless would be my call

I haven't made an absolute decision yet but I'm leaning more towards the 3.8 V6 now. Thanks for the input.

I ran both a 3.8 and the 4.3 and I have to say that the power output from the 4.3 was much better, but thats just one mans opinion.

Alright....I'm stuck. I really need some help now.
I opened the crate with my transmission in it, went over all the parts, and was sporting a chubby by the time I was finished. Everything was fine until I got looking at the mounts for the T98. From what I can gather...it's a ford T98. Which isn't a huge deal, it just means I'll have to drill holes and make the GM bell housing fit, but the good news is I won't need an adapter (according to Ken at Novak).

What I can't find info on is the bell housing. I think the 4.3 uses a 90 degree bell while the 3.8 is a 60 degree bell whether it was mounted transversely or not. I made a trip to the local yard again and tried to find a bell that would fit the 3.8 but the guys that work there weren't much help. What I need to find is a model number or a vehicle that a known 60 degree would come from. I also don't know a thing about the clutch assembly that would install in one.

On a side note, I also measured the 3.8 to see exactly how it would fit in the doghouse of the FC-150... :smokin: Oh yeah... I can mount that engine and almost get rid of the doghouse in the interior. This is one of the biggest reasons I like the idea of that motor.

I'll get some pics of the T98 tomorrow.

From what I can gather...it's a ford T98. Which isn't a huge deal, it just means I'll have to drill holes and make the GM bell housing fit, but the good news is I won't need an adapter (according to Ken at Novak).

Scratch that. I didn't realize that the M715 / M725 trucks had the 1 1/8 inch diameter shafts as well. Whereas the jeep version has the 15/16 inch shaft. My bad.

I would buy an after market universal kit and rewire it my self

Would you recommend a certain company?

I went with the mini 12 from these guys http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html on my flatfender.

It is not as good as a painless kit, but IMO it's still a good harness and much more affordable.

Wire and fuseblock seem to be 'good' quality and the wires are all labeled similar to the painless kits. I have some complaints, but they are minor:

*fuse block doesn't have a good mounting method (I resorted to zip ties, I'm still not sure how I'm going to mount it for real)

*No wire schematic, instead they give you a somewhat condescending manual that tells you what to do but without a schematic I think it's more annoying than helpful. So I spent a day wringing out the wires and circuits and figured it out myself (this is easy, it just takes time). The only other thing you will need to get your own loom and end connections (or solder) all your leads.

Unless you plan on power everything I think the 12 circuits is plenty for a basic truck. I think I'm using 6 currently.

Yeah, I found them and was looking at one of their universal kits. I'm the kind that would rather spend the extra time wiring than spend extra money on a more expensive kit. I'll keep them in mind for when I get to that point.

I was reading on the net somewhere that when taking an engine you want: a)the motor obviously, b)the pcm or ecu that controls the motor, c) and possibly the electrical distribution center.

I hadn't thought of taking the distro box but the guy at the junkyard said he would sell the whole engine package for $600 (2000 3.8 V6 w/80,000). Less if I didn't take the electrical stuff. Would this be a smart thing to do? To take the distro box, get some wire, and basically create the system myself.

I'm looking to do virtually the same thing with a '62 FC-150...convert to disc brakes and upgrade the power plant. Did you decide on an engine? Can you provide details regarding the progress of the project?

I PM'd you earlier. Check your messages.

What I can't find info on is the bell housing. I think the 4.3 uses a 90 degree bell while the 3.8 is a 60 degree bell whether it was mounted transversely or not. I made a trip to the local yard again and tried to find a bell that would fit the 3.8 but the guys that work there weren't much help. What I need to find is a model number or a vehicle that a known 60 degree would come from. I also don't know a thing about the clutch assembly that would install in one.


Do you have a 3.8 or a 3800? If it is a 3.8 I have a 225 buick bell housing that will make to it. Camero's had a 3800 manual, and I believe the 2.8 uses the same bell housing pattern which were in 80's S10s.

Find a gtp grand prix and steal the super charger and ecu/wiring and have some fun :grinpimp:

finally subscribing good tech here ;)

Hey guys,

what's goin on with the project?

I'm working on my own FC, and as soon as i have something running (where i feel like i've accomplished something!) I'll start posting pics and details.

Question - these waggoneer axles - how wide are they? the wide-track FC axles were 58 inches, and the narrow-track (early) FCs had 47ish.