It looks like JB Conversions and others are going to be reselling the NV241OR from the Rubicon. I haven't gotten a price yet, but this looks like an interesting option to the Atlas II/Flipped300/KluneV route of gearing.

Pros:
Not having to buy new driveshafts associated with Atlas/300/Klune swap. At $300 apiece for driveshafts from Tom Woods and high angle, this is no small trivial matter.
4:1 deep gearing.
32 spline output
Already set up for CV, no need for SYE.
Comes from New Venture Gears a stout box meant for 4:1 torque, presumable more stout than a 231/242 (I haven't seen full published specs on this yet.

Cons:
Still chain driven. Big boys with big torque will still worry about chain fatigue/tooth skip that is not a problem with ATLASII/D300
Aluminum case. Again not sure the stoutness of the case until I can see full specs (not available on their site).
Runs ATF vs. gear oil.

I have been contemplating an AtlasII but at a cost near $3000 (driveshafts, shifters, output), that is frighteningly high for a rig that is worth MAYBE twice that. If we can pick this NV241OR up on the open market for $1300-1400, I think I will guniea pig it.


talk amongst yourselves.

SeanP

You have to buy driveshafts from Tom Woods or High Angle for the Atlas II because WHY?? It doesn't require any kind of special driveshaft and if anything, being shorter than most T cases angles & lengths would be improved. The only thing you need to get is whatever yoke bolts to the back of the Atlas II and the slip splines and any shop that can shorten, lengthen & re-balance a drive shaft can put one together for you for a reasonable cost

Just a standard re-length and balance at Sacramento Driveline Service is about $100. Flanges, double cardan joints are more, so at minimum I would assume $200-250 if modifying existing drivelines. However, most of the folks that I have spoken to have purchased new drivelines for their AtlasII conversion

next,

SeanP

Sean, here is an interesting link I pulled from a JU thread. Looks pretty slick, but the only thing that looks sketchy is his custom shaft that he welded up for the reduction box.

XJ/MJ Dual 'Cases (http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/bryce/tcase/tcase.cfm)

Sean, I have seen firsthand the internals of that case. The planetaries are huge. So big that NV made the front portion of the case in two sections with one removeable over that gear set. Basically you have to pull a cover off of the front half to disassemble the thing.

An item of note. They use a 3 section tone ring machined into the output shaft for the speed sensor. Gonna be pretty interesting to adapt for other uses.

yeah, I was wondering about the VSS. I am sure something can be kluged together to get that working. As long as it bolts up to a standard jeep tranny and has a 23 spline input, we would be golden. I sent an email off to JB Conversions. In JP, it read that JB would have these on their shelves.

SeanP

What mrblaine said. I took one partially apart and snapped a few photos. If anyone's interested, I can email them to someone that can put them up here- I can't. Someday, it's only 20 bucks. :grr:

Originally posted by Slagburn
What mrblaine said. I took one partially apart and snapped a few photos. If anyone's interested, I can email them to someone that can put them up here- I can't. Someday, it's only 20 bucks. :grr:

send away, tjoop2000@yahoo.com

Don't forget, double cardan shafts aren't necessary unless you've got angle issues and aren't as strong as single cardan types.

I believe the 241OR has a SYE and you're back to having to modify the driveshaft anyway.

I've never seen an Atlas II first hand but you're probably right about the shifters. I nstalled a 241 in place of the 231 originally installed in my Cherokee and adapting the shifter & linkage was easy and I used the existing linkage with a little modification

Originally posted by Slagburn
What mrblaine said. I took one partially apart and snapped a few photos. If anyone's interested, I can email them to someone that can put them up here- I can't. Someday, it's only 20 bucks. :grr:

Here are Slagburns's pics.

1.

2.

3.

4.

sweet! Thanks for posting the photos. The VSS plug looks like the same that I have.

It also looks like from the photos that somebody dropped the TC and bent two of the alignment bolts. OOOOps

SeanP

once you do the 4-1 you will need to be even easyer on you axles than you are now due to all the new torque. Depending on price it just might be a real option though.
Is it me or are transfercases a real ripoff? You can get a new 4500 for $1200-1400 and that is a 5spd yet a 2spd tcase is $2400:confused:

Sorry just venting

Originally posted by 66CJdean
Is it me or are transfercases a real ripoff? You can get a new 4500 for $1200-1400 and that is a 5spd yet a 2spd tcase is $2400:confused:

Sorry just venting

No shit, never thought of it that way.

It came "bent" due to NVG's crappy shipping, cardboard box + foam surrounds + UPS = bent parts. :D
Those pics were for NVG's warranty department at first, then the front came off one night too. They never saw those pics. :)
1330 fixed yokes, at that.

I never thought I'd see the day a jeep came with 1330's!

i have heard rumors of 7,000$ - that seems high - it should be a pretty good unit - i have also hear advance addapters is not worried about this because its going to be alot more than an atlas through normal channels- Jess :D- Hell if someone wants i'll trough ina One ton c/v and see if we can break her- Free but i want to be involved and seee the testing at ah- little sluce - yeh Jess:D

the first attempts on the 4-1 gears did not last 2 hours in the dyno at new venture so they redesignded it to be stronger lets see how strong- :D

I don't think I made a mistake in installing the one on the right...
http://home.earthlink.net/~jdrios/AA_0767_011.jpg
...a chain driven t-case is still a chain driven t-case.


Jes

Originally posted by Jes
I don't think I made a mistake in installing the one on the right...
http://home.earthlink.net/~jdrios/AA_0767_011.jpg
...a chain driven t-case is still a chain driven t-case.


Jes

Hey, over all length from input mounting surface to flange surface did anythign change length wise?

I'm doing the same swap soon, wondering if the rear driveline is going to get longer/shorter same as the front and how much. And it looks like we have/had the same NP231 conversion. ;)

Originally posted by twaldher


Hey, over all length from input mounting surface to flange surface did anythign change length wise?

I'm doing the same swap soon, wondering if the rear driveline is going to get longer/shorter same as the front and how much. And it looks like we have/had the same NP231 conversion. ;)
You will end up with a longer rear shaft and a shorter front.
Because I mounted the Atlas behind an AX15 in an XJ I had to use a 1" spacer, otherwise I would have had to make a custom cross member/tranny mount. I ended up using the same rear shaft but I changed it from a flange mount to a yoke mount. There's about 3/16" more spline showing than before.
The SYE on the NP231 is a Tom Wood's unit, BTW.


Jes

With the 1" spacer, you sure you have enough spline engagement with the input shaft on the atlas?

How much shorter did the front driveline get?

Even with the 1" spacer I got more spline engagement than with the stock 231. AFAIK AW4 equiped XJs don't need a spacer.
I can't remember how much shorter the front shaft became but (obviously) it would have been even shorter if I didn't use the spacer.

Jes

Originally posted by Jes
Even with the 1" spacer I got more spline engagement than with the stock 231. AFAIK AW4 equiped XJs don't need a spacer.
I can't remember how much shorter the front shaft became but (obviously) it would have been even shorter if I didn't use the spacer.

Jes

Was just asking.. I heard I may have to shorten the output shaft on my AX15 by about 1/8" or so. grr...

Hmmm....
I tried installing the Atlas without the 1" spacer and it seemed to seat okay with the AX15, I didn't torque the bolts down though.
What vehicle are you going to install it in?

Jes

92 YJ with the AX15 without a 1" spacer. I ws told if it doesn't slide right in to position and the two machined surfaces don't meet eachother (by like 1/8" or so) dont' force it, the output shaft needs shortening.

(guess that means out comes the grinder with cutoff wheel)

I don't know what others sell Atlas's for but 3k with driveshafts???? I can't quote in print what I really sell them for, and don't want to get in a price pissing match, but you might want to look around before paying that.

Originally posted by Jes
Even with the 1" spacer I got more spline engagement than with the stock 231. AFAIK AW4 equiped XJs don't need a spacer.
I can't remember how much shorter the front shaft became but (obviously) it would have been even shorter if I didn't use the spacer.

Jes

just fyi, my xj has aw4, and i had to use the d300 ring from AA for proper spline engagement on the atlas.
~John

did u ever find the price on the t-case?

nope, I got a response from JB Conversions that they still don't have pricing.

looks like it will be an atlas!
SeanP

AtlasII all the way! The more I use mine, the more I like it.


Jes

I've got a 95 XJ with 4.0HO and a AW4 trans. I plan on swapping out the np231 with a np241j out of a Rubi. I know I will need to replace my rear driveshaft with a slip style since the 241 has a fixed yoke. what I am trying to figure out is other then that, will it bolt right up and in? The input shafts are the same spline count. but I can't find anything about length. I also know that the 241 has 1330 yokes and the 231 has 1310. I spose I will have to get my front shaft refit with a 1330 on one end.

I haven't read anything except this post taht says anything about needing a spacer. I also haven't heard anything about any other Mods.

Can anyone help me with knowledge, experience, advice, etc...
Anyone done this before? Please point me in the right direction.