I'm going to look at a Bridgeport next week. I'm a woodworking/millwork guy, so I know ripsaws,moulders, and planers, meaning I know nothing about Machinists' tooling.

What should I be looking at and/or where is a good place I can get some information one these? all I know is it's about 7' tall and well over a ton.

definitley want to get a edge finder and a chuck. also probably want to get an assortment of 2 and 4 flute endmills. you will want a vice that clamps down to the table as well. maybe a centerdrill as well if you dont have one of those. might want to get a dial indicator w/ magnetic stand so you can dial in the vice to make sure its completley flat.

that should be enough to get you started on doing most things. really depends on what you will be making with it, but with endmills and drill bits you can make alot of stuff.


all or most of that stuff can be found at mcmaster-carr.com

Thanks, that sounds like it should get me started. A friend I grew up with is a Quality Control guy at a machine shop in town, and his boss is getting rid of one of the old Bridgeports they don't use anymore.

Needless to say, at the price I'm getting it for, it doesn't come with any tooling.

Are there any good forums for these things?

Are there any good forums for these things?

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/index.php
More of a professional forum. Beginners type questions get locked up pretty quick, zero tolerance for chit-chat. Excellent place to lurk and search.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/
More hobbyist friendly site. I don't frequent this one, but beginners questions from Practical Machinist sometimes are referred here before getting locked.

Thanks, that sounds like it should get me started. A friend I grew up with is a Quality Control guy at a machine shop in town, and his boss is getting rid of one of the old Bridgeports they don't use anymore.

Needless to say, at the price I'm getting it for, it doesn't come with any tooling.

Are there any good forums for these things?

dang your lucky. i would love to have one of those in my garage. ....not that i have a garage. all the machining ive done was pretty much self taught. i had somebody tell my how the machine works and i was on my own from their. ive done alot of complicated parts at school with just that tooling i listed.


dont really know of any forums, it actually hasnt occurred to me to look up some machining forums. i might have to check out some

You can get tooling a lot cheaper than mcmaster carr.

enco (use-enco.com) and msc direct are both much cheaper. Keep an eye on what you get, they do sell some import junk, but they also sell lots of good US and "first world country" manufactured tooling as well.

As for looking at the machine, make sure it runs smooth forward and backward in all speed settings. I'm going to assume it's a step pulley head, so work through all the belt and range combinations. Get an experienced operator to show you how it works.

Also, look for smooth operation of the quil (vertical movement) and the X / Y motion of the table.

If it's got power feed, make sure that's good to go.

Lastly, check the backlash in the center and ends of the cross slide. Put it in the center of its range and lock the table, then see how much you can move the drive handles. This will tell you how much lash there is. A large discrepancy in center vs. edge backlash indicates a worn leadscrew.

I was told (by my friend, who will also be helping me set it up), that the bearings were a little worn, but should be fine for what I want to do, which is learn for now.

I have an MSC direct book at my Fathers' moulding mill, I will look through there. I'm pretty sure the one I'm getting doesn't have a power feed. we'll see.

Thanks guys, this should help me out quite a bit with what I'll need after checking it out.

while you are checking the machine out for mechanical problems-make sure you inspect the inside of the spindle nose where the r8 collet fits-make sure the drive key in the spindle nose is still there and not been stripped. also check inside taper in nose-make sure it isn't scored/damaged from spinning a collet inside it. if you really want to get picky-use a dial indicator and check run-out on inside taper of spindle nose that collets seat in-make sure it is not bent from a serious crash. a new machine would be around 0-.0003 t.i.r. for what you will probably be using it for you could live with up to .003 t.i.r. if the spindle has more run-out then that-make sure it get it priced accordingly. many older machines get damaged/crashed from careless operation. parts are expensive for machine tools as other people have already said test run the machine in its speed ranges including back gear. also-make sure the powerfeed for the quill works-you might want to bore holes in something one day. good luck with your inspection- hope the sale goes in your favor.

When you do get the mill up and running with an endmill, Do not climb mill unless it is a really light cut. Conventional milling (cutting against the rotation of the cutter) will prevent the tool from grabing onto the part and wrecking you cutter and your work ot worse.

you are correct about climb cutting in a milling machine with out anti-backlash nuts on the lead screw-but i climb cut all the time on my bridgeports in stainless and 4140. you just have to bury the cutter it's full diameter into the metal so it can't "climb" out of the pocket it is in and take a adequate depth of cut. you have to keep in mind the round "key" in the spindle nose is about 1/8" in diameter that drives the collects and not get carried away with the depth of cut or the feed rate you select for the table-otherwise you can end up spending lot's of money on repairs -machine tool parts are expensive

If the key in the spindle is missing, don't worry. It's a $10 part and it takes about 10 minutes to replace it. I've run quite a few mills that didnt' have one.

Take a test indicator a dial indicator and a mag base with you. Chuck spindle runout as said above. Unless it's real beat up this should be very low.

Check for backlash in the x and y feeds. To do this, run the axis one way, set the dial on the handle to zero. Set the indicator to read movement of that axis. Slowly turn the handle the opposite way untill the dial indicator moves. Subtrace the movement on the dial indicator from the number on the dial and that's how much backlash you have. Check the X-axis in the middle and on each end of it's travel. Usually you will have more play in the middle than the ends, If you have more than say .040" of difference between the highest and lowest number there could be a problem. You can adjust some backlash out, but if the screw is worn excessivley in one area it will have to be replaced.

Mount the indicator to the head and move the table around measuring it in different spots. This is to make sure it's not warped.

Use a very good straightedge and some feeler guages to check for flatness on the ways for y and z. Without taking the machine apart this is hard to do well, but if it's reall bad you'll quickly see it.

Try to find out what they machined on it. If it was mostly plastic and alum, the machine will probably be fine. It if was used to machine steel for 20 years it's probably hurting.

You guys are jumping the gun a bit.

Do a bit of research on what kind of BP it is.

Round ram models aren't as desirable as the dovetail rams.

There are several different 'heads' as well.

I'm no expert myself, but it's possible to buy poorly here.

Maybe the head isn't R-8 ?

Maybe the old motor is 440v only, in which case a phase convertor in your garage just became impossible or truly difficult.

Other than that, some good advice...

PM and HSM are great sites, and:

Everyone here should have an Enco catalog.

Here's some info to get started:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/bridgeport/

-James

Turn the mill on,if it a variable speed model adjust the speed from low to high and listen to the spindle for any strange noises.There are sealed bearings in there and in the upper head that can go bad.They are not too hard to replace if your mechanicly inclined.

thanks guys, plenty of info for me to dig into.

as far as the voltage, we have a moulding mill where the machinery is on 3-phase, so I'd prefer it.

Now I just need to get down there to look at it.

For the love of God, we aren't making space shuttle parts and he's not even an accomplished machinist-yet.

Get the machine home, buy a book so you'll be safe running it. Get an Enco catalog now! You'll likely learn more by just looking at the pictures of the tooling-I know I learned an awful lot by looking at pictures (and not just about sex:laughing::grinpimp::flipoff2:).

Any mill is better than no mill, regardless of whether it's an F model or a J model. Just get the damned thing home and then, we can start with tooing.

Now that I said that, you'll want a vise, a drawbar, at least a 1/2" collet and a 1/2" mill bit. These will get you making chips, teach you a lot and let you know what the capabilities of the machine are.

By the way, I (or rather, my parts manager) just found a new machinery supplier, Victor Machinery Exchange in Brooklyn, 800-723-5359. Killer pricing on import tooling, we bought some HUGE (think 20 and 30 m/m) rethread dies for less than $50 for the pile, including a 2" round die stock. They've got some killer deals and also have the big-name stuff as well.

PT

LOL, I just noticed your name, my dad has a friend named Perry Gower who owns a machine shop in Michigan! But, he's at least 75 year old, LOL.

actually p.t. mayka got lots of excellent advice from people on this board machine condition is kinda important-if it is to far gone-it is not worth bying-this is coming from a ex maintenance machinist that has been involved in replacing nuts,screws,rebuilding spindle assemblies and sometimes making the parts for them because replacement parts are not avaliable(cross feed screw for a cincinatti lathe)/ to expensive(18 years ago a cross feed nut and screw was 1500.00.) did not include taxes and shipping. i personally own two very nice late model mint condition machines-there is a reason why i did not purchase old "beater machines". as far as learning how to run them with basic knowledge-local college is a great place to learn ot be tutored by a experianced machinist-otherwise you can/will damage the machine. remember what i said about buying replacement parts? if you are really unlucky you can even hurt yourself. machine tools have to be operated with some respect and some understanding of basic machining procedures.

actually p.t. mayka got lots of excellent advice from people on this board machine condition is kinda important-if it is to far gone-it is not worth bying-this is coming from a ex maintenance machinist that has been involved in replacing nuts,screws,rebuilding spindle assemblies and sometimes making the parts for them because replacement parts are not avaliable(cross feed screw for a cincinatti lathe)/ to expensive(18 years ago a cross feed nut and screw was 1500.00.) did not include taxes and shipping. i personally own two very nice late model mint condition machines-there is a reason why i did not purchase old "beater machines". as far as learning how to run them with basic knowledge-local college is a great place to learn ot be tutored by a experianced machinist-otherwise you can/will damage the machine. remember what i said about buying replacement parts? if you are really unlucky you can even hurt yourself. machine tools have to be operated with some respect and some understanding of basic machining procedures.

I respectfully disagree with you on almost all counts. I have spent hours standing in front of old and worn out machines cranking the handles and turned out damned good parts (in one case, good enough for satellite dishes for motor homes). One of my former employers told stories of old machies and machinists who knew when to add a quarter turn to the handle as the ways were worn just a bit right at that spot.

A learning machinist can learn as well on an old machine as he can on a good one. With a Bridgeport brand machine, what parts are not easily available? These machines have been made since the industrial revolution (OK, but damned near). Everybody knows how to repair them and parts are plentiful and inexpensive-in the scheme of things, we're not talking an exotic machine made overseas, nor is it likely to have some goofy computer that nobody knows how to run any more.

With a good book, a person can learn enough to not be a danger to themselves or others.

For one-offs and toolmaking, worn out machines will do much better than nothing, and a newbie can learn without spending a fortune on a nice machine better suited to one of us who has some experience running said machine.

I'm not inexperienced, my first time running a mill was probably 1977. Now that I think of it, it may have been even earlier, maybe 1975. There have been many more hours since spent in classrooms learning how to run them and use them to make stuff.

If you look around, you'll find that I'm a big proponent of adult ocntinuing education offered by many communities.

This is the real world we're talking about and in the real world, rarely is there perfection.

For the love of God, we aren't making space shuttle parts and he's not even an accomplished machinist-yet.


I hope that wasn't aimed towards my post. If you have the tools to do it it's always good to check the machine out before you buy, so you know what you are getting. I would hate to see someone pay $3000 for a clapped out $500 mill that's going to vibrate like cheap motel bed.

He said that it was coming out of a machine shop where they just didn't use it any more, not that it was so badly worn out that they couldn't use it. He also stated that he was getting it a good enough price that he didn't expect it to come with any tooling. He also stated that he didnt' even kow how to run it!

Just because I see value in antique, potentially worn iron doesn't mean you guys can't disagree with me just as well, but I'll stand by my earilier statements that if you're not building space shuttles, an old worn machine is a whole lot better than a bench grinder and a hacksaw. I did an awful lot with a cutting torch, a file and a bench grinder and am really lucky to have the machinery I have now-in fact, I think I might spend the afternoon using some of it :flipoff2:.

I'll also say that import tooling is better than none. Most of us are just trying to make chips and a machine that makes chips is better than none. Those of you who are lucky enough to have pristine tight machines are lucky. For the rest of us who live in the real world, we have to use old iron that takes a lot more to turnout good work, but I like to think I turn out pretty good work (mostly tools to support my shop business) using my antique worn-out tools that I bought for next to nothing and stocked with often-times imported tooling that so many of you disdain, but again, I'm making chips, not out trying to find the tightest machine I can find and probably can't afford, nor am I gonna hold out and not buy tooling just because I can't afford American made tooling. Yes, I'd prefer to support American businesses, but reality is I can't afford it most of the time, but I'm making chips!

Thanks, that sounds like it should get me started. A friend I grew up with is a Quality Control guy at a machine shop in town, and his boss is getting rid of one of the old Bridgeports they don't use anymore.

Needless to say, at the price I'm getting it for, it doesn't come with any tooling.

Are there any good forums for these things?

See if your buddy can get the maintenance machinist to give him the background story on the mill, and possibly look it over for any maintenance recommendations.

I respectfully disagree with you on almost all counts. I have spent hours standing in front of old and worn out machines cranking the handles and turned out damned good parts (in one case, good enough for satellite dishes for motor homes). One of my former employers told stories of old machies and machinists who knew when to add a quarter turn to the handle as the ways were worn just a bit right at that spot.

A learning machinist can learn as well on an old machine as he can on a good one. With a Bridgeport brand machine, what parts are not easily available? These machines have been made since the industrial revolution (OK, but damned near). Everybody knows how to repair them and parts are plentiful and inexpensive-in the scheme of things, we're not talking an exotic machine made overseas, nor is it likely to have some goofy computer that nobody knows how to run any more.

With a good book, a person can learn enough to not be a danger to themselves or others.

For one-offs and toolmaking, worn out machines will do much better than nothing, and a newbie can learn without spending a fortune on a nice machine better suited to one of us who has some experience running said machine.

I'm not inexperienced, my first time running a mill was probably 1977. Now that I think of it, it may have been even earlier, maybe 1975. There have been many more hours since spent in classrooms learning how to run them and use them to make stuff.

If you look around, you'll find that I'm a big proponent of adult ocntinuing education offered by many communities.

This is the real world we're talking about and in the real world, rarely is there perfection.

if you read my post the issue was not parts avaliability-it was parts pricing- and trying to make good parts on a clapped out machine is a pain in the ass. i am talking about the real world here. if you want a nice drill press/milling machine for simple mill work/tube notching-a clapped out machine will be o.k. as long as it does not require a bunch of parts to make it operable again. go get a price check on a set of class 7 precision angular contact bearings for the spindle of a bridgeport and maybe some gears and shafts to fix a broken powerfeed on a bridgeport and get back to me! god help you if you have to purchase a new spindle for one.i speak from experiance also. i own a very nice machine shop at home with late model well taken care of equipment. also made my living as a maintenance machinist at a factory full of equipment that we installed/maintained,rebuilt,modified as necessary. every body in my family are machinists in job shops some of my friends who work in machine shops will ask to come over and use my machines for a personal project-the good/tight machines are set up on a job and they don't want to deal with a clapped out machine that is open to them for use.have you ever made your living as a machinist? have you ever repaired machine tool/made replacement parts for them? you do know that bridgeport factory shut down and now hardinge is representing them now-don't know how that affects part prices-when bridgeport sold parts they were expen$ive. aftermarket is avaliable-not sure on the quality though.as far as learning goes-if you sign up at a vocational school-you arn't makeing chips on your 1st day there and there is a reason for it. it does not matter if the machine is brand new or 20 years old-if a mistake is made it can be expensive to fix it or render medical attention to the operator of said machine.

OK, fine. You guys leave the old machines to me and I'll be making chips while you guys are either still looking for the Holy Grail, or polishing your perfect machines.

I have spent hours standing in front of old and worn out machines cranking the handles and turned out damned good parts (in one case, good enough for satellite dishes for motor homes). One of my former employers told stories of old machies and machinists who knew when to add a quarter turn to the handle as the ways were worn just a bit right at that spot.

With a good book, a person can learn enough to not be a danger to themselves or others.

I'm not inexperienced, my first time running a mill was probably 1977. Now that I think of it, it may have been even earlier, maybe 1975. There have been many more hours since spent in classrooms learning how to run them and use them to make stuff.

.

In the real world,there are more precision parts to be made than satellite dishes for motor homes!

Modern machine shops have DRO's mounted to the mills.
Having to add a 1/4 turn to the handle means the lead screw/lead nut is FUBAR.

You will not learn as much in a class room as working in the trade.

In the real world,there are more precision parts to be made than satellite dishes for motor homes!

Modern machine shops have DRO's mounted to the mills.
Having to add a 1/4 turn to the handle means the lead screw/lead nut is FUBAR.

You will not learn as much in a class room as working in the trade.

You guys are really making me laugh now.

How many of us started out using a bench grinder and hacksaw as our mills?

One NEEDS both classroom AND hands-on training, neither is sufficient without the other.

No, I didn't spend nine years in college learning to be an engineer and then went back to school to get formal machine tool technology training as well. Oh yeah, I did. I also then spent 19 years using that formal training in both the theories and the practices of manufacturing to help manage manufacturing facilities for some of the biggest companies in the fields I worked in/for. (hint, they were all Fortune 500 companies)

No, I don't use this education and experience every day when I go to work using machinery I can afford and actually have so that I can make the parts and tools I need. Oh yeah, I do!

Again, you guys can enjoy your perfect machines. The rest of us will make do with what we can find and can afford.

I see nothing wrong with buying an inexpensive machine that might be worn. If it runs and turns, it's better than nothing. Of course, one doesn't want to foolish and spend as much as a new machine, but a used worn machine will meet the requirements of 90% of us here.

See if your buddy can get the maintenance machinist to give him the background story on the mill, and possibly look it over for any maintenance recommendations.

My friend is one of the two maintenance guys there. If it needs a rebuild, he or another guy, Jakob does it. I was told it could use bearings, but it wasn't bad. they have five or six of these mills there, and don't use them that often.


So, rather than put money into it, they are going to get rid of it to make space on the floor. They mainly make parts for underwater robotic mining equipment, so five bridgeports are not really necessary when they have much higher end and newer equipt. available.

As far as the arguments here, I grew up in the moulding industry, using,building, repairing and modifying machinery since I was about 14(I'm 34). Most of what we do the tolerances are within 1/64", not 1/1,000" and my calipers are Sae and measure to 1/128". What I'm saying is, I have knowledge to a certain point, and want to take it to a higher level. If it means I have to rebuild it from the ground up(which I may do anyway), it means I will have a better understanding of how the machine works, and its capabilities. I'll be using it for my projects mainly, but it will also be used to make parts for the mill equipt. like the 1908 vonnegut 12" moulder that we still run from time to time.

We like our old worn out equipt. and know how to use it well.;)

We like our old worn out equipt. and know how to use it well.;)

I knew my faith in you was not misplaced.

If you're able to safely use woodworking machinery, you have all the knowledge to keep yourself safe around metalworking machinery.

Having to add a 1/4 turn to the handle means the lead screw/lead nut is FUBAR.


Or just out of adjustment, a bit flat head can prob get most of that lash out.

Besides the screws and nuts are fairly cheap and easy to replace.