Question about my wiring. I am rewiring my '94 YJ for my carb'd 350. I am completely getting rid of the stock wiring for EVERYTHING. I want to run a 12-circuit, marine fuse block. It has a 30 amp max per circuit and a 100 amp maximum total.http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/81191/377%20710/0/fuse%20block/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=fuse%20block&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=fuse%20block&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=295

I want to be able to use the second accessory position on my stock ignition key to power the block, but I THINK I would have to run a solenoid to be able to do this. Is this correct? If so, how about this weather proof 100A break/85A continuous use solenoid? http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/16222/377%20710/0/solenoid/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=solenoid&Ntk=Primary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=solenoid&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=15802

Will this solenoid be able to power the fuse block continually without any problems?

A list of the things I will have on the fuse block:
-Distributor Coil
-grand marquis electric Fan
-Head Lights (Dim) & Parking Lights Front & Back
-Head Lights (Bright)
-Wipers Slow
-Wipers Fast
-3 KC Lights
-2 KC Lights
-Reverse Lights (wired to truck megashifter)
-2 utility back lights on Roll Bar
-Extra
-Extra
-Extra
-Radio
-CB Radio


Obviously, I will not be able to power everything at one time, but how about majority? No, I will not have a winch (before you comment on a winch).

Why not just run a painless harness?

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/76410101.jpg

http://www.jegs.com/p/Painless/744588/10002/-1

Oh, that is one thing I forgot to put. I do not want a painless wiring harness. Cost too much for what I want to do. I have plenty wire at work and I really dont want to deal with the Painful Painless Wiring. haha

thx though

The only solenoids that will handle a constant load are snowplow solenoids and even then I question if they will sustain constant use. The stock ignition switch should have several switched 12v outputs, seeing as how that's how the stock system is wired. Certainly much better than running it off a solenoid.

In order to do it this way, wouldn't I still need to run the stock relays?
I hooked up a meter to the accessory slots and only one wire was constant hot in the on position, and the gauge wire was way to small to run all of this equipment on I think.

The accessory relays don't get their 12v from the ign switch. They get their ground. They have constant 12v's to them. You can wire up your harness the same way using typical Bosch style relays. the constant 12v would be for the distributor.

I think I am willing to try that solenoid from West Marine. Could anyone please tell me how many amps a Mallory HEi distributor (7548201C) would require? What about the fan listed above?

These are the contactors I use you can get them from Blue Seas marine app.

http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/specs/389

They are made by Tyco (who I got them from) here is there data sheet

http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/ev200.pdf

If you do not mind, please explain how you run this. Is it a continuos running solenoid?

Dedicate one solonoid for your fan and one for you fuse block. You should be fine. This is exactly how I wire my fuel injection.....No problems. If your not sure the fuse rating, pull the device out and bench test it.....see how much current it pulls.