Ok so here's what I have been building lately on the front end of my toy. On the driver's side I have a link running from the bottom of the axle about 2 inches below it to the frame, and the link is about 4 feet long. I also have a link that runs a couple of inches atop the axle about a foot long down to the bottom link so in essence it is one link in the shape of a Y. I am running bushings at the axle and a 5/8 hiem joint at the frame. On the passenger side I have a single link running from the bottom of the axle (about 2 inches below it) up to the frame, also about 4 feet long. Once again bushing at the axle and hiem at the frame. I then have a panhard coming a couple inches below the frame on the driver's side over to the passenger side near where the perch used to be. The way I figure it, I shouldn't have much bind as I am only running a single link on the passenger side but axle roll is kept to a minimum with the Y link on the driver's side and lateral movement is of course controlled by the pan hard. Anyone see any problems with this set up that I am not seeing? I suppose I could run a Y link on the passenger side but have a release pin of some sorts to the upper link at the axle so as to releave binding pressures when I am flexing it up. However I figure the Y link on the driver's side was enough to control wrap adequately. I would appreciate any comments or concerns on this set up so I can make changes while I am still building the coil mounts, which are turning out to be a pain as I am moving my front end forward a couple more inches and running into clearance problems with the steering box. oh well. Thanks.

ttt

Got Pix??

that sounds fine, but with a few concerns:

You really should have your radius arm (your "Y" link) on the passenger side. Right now, it'll make the pinion point the opposite way that it needs to, under articulation. What I mean is, when the diff droops, the pinion will point more toward the ground. When it compresses, it will point more "up".

Make sure your control arm is super-beefy. Since the "Y" will be taking all the torque from both braking and acceleration, and all that force will be concentrated right where the two sections of control arm come together, that design tends to bend right there. It's better if you extend the top arm so they form more of a "V" shape.

Other than that, it all sounds good! Play with it, and take some pics for us. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

yep that should work good what you have is the same setup many eb's have with their wristed radius arms.