I've searched a couple places but haven't found much information on the actual workings of the Gov-lock diff. Here's what I was thinking - the way I understand things - the diff operates based upon the differential speed between the two side gears that drive the axles - when it senses about a 100 RPM difference between the two speeds the diff locks. Since most of them blow up when putting the hammer down and then it tries to lock under full power/lots of traction - can I lower the engagement RPM differential. I'm thinking of welding weight to the centrifigual weights to make them engage earlier/faster.

Any thoughts on that one?

Anyone know where an exploded diagram of the diff is online?

The locking mechanism is still incredibly weak which is where the explosion comes from. Modifying when it locks will only delay the inevitable. Just weld it till you can afford a real LS or Locker. IMHO

best mod would be to take it out, and set it on the bench.
even welded, the case is way too weak.......
either get an open one, and weld that, or get a real locker

I've searched a couple places but haven't found much information on the actual workings of the Gov-lock diff. Here's what I was thinking - the way I understand things - the diff operates based upon the differential speed between the two side gears that drive the axles - when it senses about a 100 RPM difference between the two speeds the diff locks. Since most of them blow up when putting the hammer down and then it tries to lock under full power/lots of traction - can I lower the engagement RPM differential. I'm thinking of welding weight to the centrifigual weights to make them engage earlier/faster.

Any thoughts on that one?

Anyone know where an exploded diagram of the diff is online?

I'd say give it a shot. I'm sure it won't magically make it bulletproof, but in certain situations, it may prevent blowing up. Post up your findings, I'd be curious to see how it works.

There are 2 different kinds of weights in there.. the pawls that splay out when there's a >10mph speed difference between left & right, and the complementary pawl that swings out of the way when overall speed is >20mph as a safety mechanism.

The safety one isn't worth modifying, because you shouldn't want your locker to engage >20mph unless you're into drifting (and have the horsepower, skinny tires to pull it off)

The little ones that swing out to cause a lock are difficult to modify because the clearances around them are tight... you can't slap a bead of weld onto the side because they need room to rotate, you can't slap a bead of weld on the cylindrical edge of them because it needs to clear the safety pawl. Not to mention a weld near the engaging edge could well make it brittle and cause it to chip off, which won't do you any favors.

You can try sourcing a weaker spring to retain the engagement pawls.... that will involve finding out what the stats of the existing spring are - or possibly just modifying the existing spring if you want to stab in the dark at it.

Or just acknowledge that you have the worst kind of locker there is and learn to drive with it or replace it. Sure, gov-locks blow up when you hammer on it - all sorts of parts blow up when you pound on the go-pedal like a retard - it's a poor surrogate for finesse. Gov-locks require a little wheelspin to engage, and when they do it also jerks the stationary tire... that sucks, but when you know what the machine does, you can tailor your behavior to the machine's because the machine sure doesn't care to tailor itself to you. :grinpimp:

Eric D - thanks for the insight - it was an idea I had and thought before I tore into the diff someone surely must have thought of the same idea... guess it's not feasable to beef this thing up... It's in an S10 with a v8 and I drive this thing on the street and didn't want to throw a bunch of cash at a weak 7.625 rear end when I figure it's a timebomb anyway you look at it. figured welding the rear wasn't too street friendly and with the weak axle shafts it's just putting that much more stress on the rear...

I've seen those 7.6's and 7.5's put up with some pretty good power, but yeah if you're gonna pound on it, don't even bother with trying to modify the gov lock, just weld it up or yank it - or get an 8.6 out of a ZR2 s10, they have the G80 in 'em too but you can get an open carrier out of a 1500's 8.6" axle and drop a quick lock in, or get an auburn or any other LS carrier for street-friendliness.

Correct theory and all sound advice though the ZR2 rear is 67" ,same as a full sized 10 bolt or even a 14 bolt .

A factory LS from a Camaro or Firechicken from '82 and later would be miles better the the Gov-loc and should show up often in the boneyards now.

where can I find directions on how to get one of these apart?

Eric D, good advice!

Ive got the LSD in my daily driver 7 5/8 s10 blazer. I love it on the street, and like it offroad with 32x11.50s.

where can I find directions on how to get one of these apart?

take the ring gear off and you will find 3 #4 phillips head machine screws. remove those and the case will come apart.

If you google "eaton locking differential" you will find a nice little schematic and a video on how it works.
I have heard of guys modifying the G-80 for cars that do course racing. You may want to check in to drifting sites or sites that cater to SCCA timed course rallys. Also check out the Camaro and Corvette support websites.
I just remove all the flyweight stuff and add extra shims and frictions to tighten them up. On a 10.5 14 bolt FF I stack them till they are even with the inside of the carrier. You have to remove the cages that hold them all together, because the new stack is thicker than the cage. It will move a little more inside the case, but no big deal. This eliminates the weak point of the G-80 and you end up with a tight LSD.