I couldnt find a thread that showed the proper way to actually go about this, so I figured I would post up on the subject. My ABS is acting up bad and I dont think its ever really worked like it should.

In typical form to make things more complicated, the lines comming out of the master cylinder are 2 differnt sizes, im too used to working on Toyota's. On my 95 chevy, there is 1 small and 1 large hard brake line connected to the master cyliner, the smaller of the 2 is mounted near the firewall. Both lines run to the ABS sensor/pump whatever box.

From there, there are 3 lines that run out of the box, 2 smaller lines go to each front caliper independently and 1 larger line goes to the back of the truck.

What fittings/lines/ adjustable prop valve do you need?
I would have to assume run the larger line from the master cylinder to a tee fitting with a larger inlet and smaller outlets to run the front. Then run the smaller line from the master cylinder to a prop valve, then through a fitting that will convert to the larger rear hardline size. Although it would be much easier to run the small line to the front and the large line to the back to keep everything the same size.

Anyone have any good info on this? What size all the fittings are? Or what I might need to order? Its my DD so truck down time is not an option.

Why, may I ask, do ya wanna scrap the ABS?
On a DD ABS can be beneficial.

On my friends 95 chevy truck we just pulled out the ABS fuse.
As long as there are no leaks you should be fine with this approach.

X10- The ABS BY LAW has to allow normal braking function if it malfunctions (pulling the fuse is a self inflicted malfunction).

Just pull the fuse and call it a day.

X10- The ABS BY LAW has to allow normal braking function if it malfunctions (pulling the fuse is a self inflicted malfunction).

Just pull the fuse and call it a day.

you dont wanna mess with the hard lines. but if you like to try and fix it, pull your rotors off and check your front ABS sensors, they like to get rust buildup under them and cause ABS engagement when not necessary. at least that happens on 99-up trucks(i work at a dealership ive fixed 30000000000 trucks like that).

if thats the case, a wire brush, some brake cleaner, spray the sensor area with some atni corrosion spray or something equivalent, put a dab of grease in the sensor hole and fixes 90% of them

Pulling the fuse on OBS trucks makes them go into limp mode/2nd gear only/flip out... disconnect one of the front sensors and it'll fault the system which shuts it off and makes it work normal.

ummm we have a 94 chevy 3500 dually. unplug it and be done....btw a good driver beats abs any day...

I was hoping to get some tech here, not talk about laws and such, anyone that does a SAS doesnt have ABS anymore anyway. Why do I not want to mess with the hard lines?... at any rate, my ABS has some problems, often my brakes get suck after hard braking, the pedal is somewhat spongy, the brakes dont engage quick enough, the problem is the ABS box... its comming out.
So, anyone that has done this, and I know there is plenty of people that have, what is the best way to do it, do I even need a prop valve?

what you describe is typical brakes for a chevy truck are your rears adjusted correctly listen to Brooks294x4 I'm also a Gm tech and have fixed 100's of these trucks by cleaning the wheels speed sensors on the front if your dead set on eliminating the ABS go look at about a 92 chevy pickup they only had rear ABS and it's pretty easy to figure out how to plumb around that but your in for a hell of a lot of work and will gain nothing

Im really not understaning how this is going to be a hell of a lot of work? The front speed sensors are 100% clean as possible, the rear brakes are adjusted. I just really hate the way this truck stops, its not firm and not safe in a lot of fast traffic. In most any GM truck ive driven with ABS there is a split second when you hit the brakes hard before they engage right, it just doesnt feel right.

I have a 99+ body style half ton. Put a 14 bolt, and custom 44 in the front, disc all around. I pulled the fuse long ago and pulled the light from the dash. I hate ABS period. Now that the trucks still under the knife, I bought new hardware to replumb the brakes, minus the abs controller. Mine was on the frame rail. What it takes to do this, is the appropriate fittings, and y block for the front, and a prop valve to the rear. (atleast on my truck) There was two 1/4 lines into the prop valve, and then three 1/4 outs. (two to the front, one to the rear) With the larger discs in the rear, they would lock up before the front, so I needed the prop valve. I guess what this comes down to is getting fittings, some brake line, and a y block and being patient, and just doing it. And no offense, but if your asking that on here, you may not be capable. Its kinda the thing you have to look at it, and decide how you want your plumbing to run. If you think you can, then get a brake flare tool, and the parts, and start to make your own.

EDIT: If your pedal is starting to get spungy, I would start by replacing the brake hoses. Your truck is a 95? So assuming they havent been replaced, those hoses are 14 years old. Hoses to get to be a little stretchy when they get old, even with the steel reinforcement. They usually start to do this, before they break. The ABS unit, is an all metal contruction, with no return line. It would not be able to bleed off your pressure, it basically puts a valve in there, to stop/slow you from applying pressure, and force pumps some of the pressure back to the master cylinder (I think atleast, on the second part of that). If the unit is not making noise when your having this issue, its more then likely not the cause.

rebel, thank you, finally an answer with some tech, that’s all I was asking, all I asked is if anyone knew exactly what tee fitting and prop valve to use(even though someone that works at a "dealership" said this would be a "hell of a lot of work"). No this is not hard, i realize that, im not going to get into "ive built this truck from the fame up and ive built that" but this aint shit.

I just wanted to know if anyone might could help me out with a simple parts list since I cant afford truck downtime see above -"What fittings/ lines/ adjustable prop valve do you need? I would have to assume run the larger line from the master cylinder to a tee fitting with a larger inlet and smaller outlets to run the front. Then run the smaller line from the master cylinder to a prop valve, then through a fitting that will convert to the larger rear hard line size. Although it would be much easier to run the small line to the front and the large line to the back to keep everything the same size."

Since this is a ground breaking hard as hell law breaking illegal idea:flipoff2:, perhaps I will post up how I end up doing it...but if anyone could tell me how they did it on a truck of my era, that would be greatly appreciated. I forgot to mention I just installed new pads, new calipers, new soft lines, a new booster and turned the rotors within the last 10k miles. When I do the ABS removal a new master cylinder is going in as well, and with the addition of an adjustable rear prop valve ill be ready for a 14bFF w/ discs.

You really need to take a set of calipers, and measure your lines, and be certain you get the correct fittings you will need. Mine were ALL 1/4 inch, but I do not know what they are in the OBS trucks. It takes a special Y block to go from 1/4 in to 1/4 out, because they would all be 7/16 thread size fittings. Usually its a larger size in, and two smaller sizes out.
I got mine from http://www.godmanhiperformance.com/index.php?group_id=13

I got the prop valve, and SS fittings for 1/4 line (7/16 thread size) from http://www.summitracing.com/

You can get larger size threads for 1/4 line, but thats what I could find a Y block to fit. The SS brake line nuts were SUM-220215 p/n, and came with a couple sizes, but for the price it was worth it just for the ones I will use in the 7/16 size thread.