I have a 80 K10 with a 10bolt GM front axle with factory lockouts and 205 T-case. I am rebuilding and installing the front and rear axles from a 76 K-5 Blazer. The Blazer is a full time unit (203 case and no free wheeling hubs and a Dana 44 front) Rear axle is done and installed.Now to the question.Will the lockouts from the GM 10 bolt go on the 44 or will I need to use the hubs/stub shafts ect, from the 10 bolt GM on the 44 axle.I could just take the truck apart and find out but im trying to reduce the time it will be in the garage. many Thanks.

Yeah the 44 and 10 bolt is all the same garbage from like the ball joints out to the lock outs

There are a difference in lockouts....my buddy has a Dana 44 from a 77 K10 under his Jeep and the lockouts are different than my old 10 bolts lockouts.

Just make sure that the hub and lockouts look the same.

For example, some lockouts are bolted to the spindle with 6 little allen head bolts.

Whereas other lockouts are bolted to another removable piece that also bolts to the main hub with 6 bolts. Its kinda hard to explain.

There are a difference in lockouts....my buddy has a Dana 44 from a 77 K10 under his Jeep and the lockouts are different than my old 10 bolts lockouts.

Just make sure that the hub and lockouts look the same.

For example, some lockouts are bolted to the spindle with 6 little allen head bolts.

Whereas other lockouts are bolted to another removable piece that also bolts to the main hub with 6 bolts. Its kinda hard to explain.

can you post pics? I haven't seen that style on the 44/ten bolt.

truxrule you need to edit you post, you got some parts listed incorretcly.


1 he is talking about EXTRENAL hubs, they are on 3/4T only and only from 73-78 and not every 3/4t got them.

2 your 10b has internal hubs, your 76 blazer has internal hubs, they are the same and will interchange 100%.

seeing as how the blazer is a 203 truck it MAY have the internal slugs, it doesnt matter, the axle will take the locking hub and not know the difference.


internal hubs.............................................. .........external hubs.

You did a better job explaining and the pics are good.

Thats what I was trying to get across.

Thanks for clarifying.

truxrule you need to edit you post, you got some parts listed incorretcly.


1 he is talking about EXTRENAL hubs, they are on 3/4T only and only from 73-78 and not every 3/4t got them.

2 your 10b has internal hubs, your 76 blazer has internal hubs, they are the same and will interchange 100%.

seeing as how the blazer is a 203 truck it MAY have the internal slugs, it doesnt matter, the axle will take the locking hub and not know the difference.


internal hubs.............................................. .........external hubs.

Thanks for the clarification & pics. good info.

Not to hijack your thread, but would you want to part with the auto hubs? I got a 78 with the fulltime t case but it has lockouts on it and the truck doesn't seem to like that.

Dont think ill have much use for them, I hope to get this swapped this weekend.I installed the knuckles with new ball joints and put in the axle joints tonight.

Well you all get the dumb ass award because almost nothing was the same.Spindles are completely different by about .25 length which in turn makes the hubs different. Also the stub shafts have the snap ring groove in the wrong place. So i had to change all this to make it work.

you are a fucking moron,

i have changed dozens and they are the same, if you dont know how to do it it can be difficult, but it all works.

what snap ring groove ? the one at the back that you dont need from the 10b hub?

Listen here dumb fuck just because you have a lot of post don't mean you know anything other than how to use the computer. The snap ring groove is on the outer end of the stub shaft it keeps the inner engagement gear for the lockout in place.If you try to put the hubs from the 1980 10 bolt on the 1976 spindle shaft the bearing preload nut will shank out and never tighten. Even if it did the rotor would rub the backing plate.You could argue but you would still be wrong.

hey taint lick, post count has nothing to do with it,


you asked about swaping the locking hubs, not the entire wheel assembly.

if you had botherd to simply swap the locking hubs, you would have found that they are a dirrect swap, but your dumb ass took the advice that was give and applied it to different parts!!! dont be pissed at me/us because you didnt fucking listen.

no shit the WHEEL hub didnt work out right, the spindles are different.

Listen here dumb fuck just because you have a lot of post don't mean you know anything other than how to use the computer......You could argue but you would still be wrong.

:shaking::shaking::shaking::shaking::shaking: fawking noob.

It still would not have worked because of the difference in the snap ring position. Some stub shafts have two grooves and some have one. When using the full time coupler you use the outer groove. When using a lockout you use the inner groove if you don't the lockout wont engage properly if at all.If you would have read my full post to start with this is what I had asked. Have a good day.:)

As far as the noob thing, Ill bet I have been working on junk a lot longer than you.

and you are still this stupid???

you fucked up a 30min project. you must be a profesional.

As far as the noob thing, Ill bet I have been working on junk a lot longer than you.

Doubt it, but "noob" status has little to do with mechanical experience,
and based ONLY on what i've seen, it might just take you longer to finish.
:D:laughing::D:laughing:

I must bow down to you if you can remove two complete axle assembly's and install one with all new seals, ball joints, axle joints, ect in 30min.

no, you only need to swap the lock out them selfs. you fucked that 30min job up.


you probably only need to push the stub out a hair to get the snap ring on.


a whole lot good you must be if you are coming here to get advice on a bullshit noob project.
As far as the noob thing, Ill bet I have been working on junk a lot longer than you.

No the stub would have needed to go in, not out by 1/4 in. This it wont do, but you knew that anyway right? Have to say one thing at least this board didn't delete this post its been somewhat fun.

in and out is a relative thing... kinda like sex.

but youre still a newbie.

Who pulled you're chain.

some dumb fuck that cant install hubs........

fwiw, why dont you post some pics and prove me wrong.