I know I am going to catch hell over this, but what I am wondering is why I cant take some 1/2" plate steel and weld my ttb together to make a, so called solid axle, I know this is not the smartest thing in the world, but I need to fix my camber problems, it is eating up my tires. And front end alignments are to damn expensive around here.

Hmmm, lets see. You want to weld the TTB together? Thus killing all the front end suspension flex except what you'll get with the sidewalls of the tires????:(

Uh, no. Not smart. If the front end is eating tires you need to either rebuild it properly or if it only has single shocks look into getting the stock setup that had duel front shocks.

And if it is Camber then you need to replace your ball joints assumeing the set-up is all good with good components.



Eric

if welding it together would kill all the flex, then how does a solid axle get any flex, im confused. I would take the drop down brackets out and it would basically be a solid axle

If you want a solid axle do a SAS.

If the truck is looking 'knock kneed' just siting still then welding the front end together isn't going to fix the problem of the tires being out of aliegnment. Needs ball joints.
If you want to weld it up you'll need to put in a sizeable lift and/or cut the crossmember up or the 'new' solid axle will bottom out too soon, plus need to install a track bar.

HAve you looked into adjusting the toe-in yourself as a cheep way of 'fixing' the tire eating?

If you haven't thought this through then maybe you shouldn't even attempt it.

Just bite the bullit and fix it right in it's stock set-up.

Eric

I've tried adjusting the toe in. I have a 6" lift already. And I honestly didnt think about the track bar. That is why I am asking everyone's opinion and suggestions. I may not even do this It was just a crazy thought that I came up with. My main reason for not doing the SAS is money. If I could just turn the ttb into a solid axle, it would be a lot cheaper. Also I have a spare ttb front end sitting around that I could use to do this, so if it didnt work, no big loss.

Do you have single shock per wheel or duel?
Are the tires 'cuping'?


Eric

The topic of this thread is "thought about welding the ttb".

You can't have thought about it to much :)

It would be more work to add 1/4th of a Windsor block to a Chev 350 to get a V10 and wouldn't work as good.

You would need to do everything required to do a straight axle conversion and you would still end up with a clobbered together ttb.

Scroung around for a HP 44, put in new ball joints and spend a weekend installing it.

Untill then put on some good shocks, take it into a good alignment shop and have them fix it.

There's a writeup somewhere on the web, where a guy did this very thing. Trying searching for "Swamp Donkey", this is what he called his rig. It was a 92-97 Ford ext cab. Give it a lookie

Here's the write-up-

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/jzettel73/TTB_Conversion.html


I'm seriously thinking about doing this only that I'd ditch the leafs and adapt my coils and radius arms to it. This way I'd keep my decent setup (fabtech coils and SL radius arms) and get a slight beef gain with the D50 u-joints (external clips) along with the 1-ton brakes/spindles/hubs. The prices the guy gave in his write-up are way too high though. There's no way I'd waste my time swapping in a straight 44 in place of my ttb 44. It's either a D60 or nothing but a d60 is just too expensive for the time being. I'm getting an excellent deal on my d50, if I wasn't then I wouldn't be doing the swap.

this guy did just that

http://www.funinbc.com/temp/ramp.jpg

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=51299&highlight=solid+ttb+ranger

Personally I think it's a waste of time. Dana 44's are CHEAP, and they are cheap, did I mention they are cheap? There are just too many other problems with TTB. If you're going to do something, do it right.

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
WTF are running thru some peoples brains

Originally posted by broncorob

WTF are running thru some peoples brains

I think of it as the urge to do things a bit different.

Sure, you may run into a few snags, or ideas that just don't work out, but every once in a while, you find something that does exactly what you want it to.

This may or may not be one of those ideas, but I personally applaud the innovator(s) of the solid/TTB hybrid. Since I have two sets of D35 beams for my swap, I may try it for myself. If it doesn't work, all I'm out is a pair of D35 TTB beams (which were delivered to my door for free anyway) and a few pieces of steel (which my neighbourhood has a HUGE abundance of anyway). If it DOES work, I get a solid axle swap option for less than the cost of dealing with the 5on5.5 vrs 5on4.5 issue...

Just my thoughts. Worth what ya paid for 'em

Originally posted by Blue coyote

I think of it as the urge to do things a bit different.

Sure, you may run into a few snags, or ideas that just don't work out, but every once in a while, you find something that does exactly what you want it to.

This may or may not be one of those ideas, but I personally applaud the innovator(s) of the solid/TTB hybrid. Since I have two sets of D35 beams for my swap, I may try it for myself. If it doesn't work, all I'm out is a pair of D35 TTB beams (which were delivered to my door for free anyway) and a few pieces of steel (which my neighbourhood has a HUGE abundance of anyway). If it DOES work, I get a solid axle swap option for less than the cost of dealing with the 5on5.5 vrs 5on4.5 issue...


Amen! If done properly it'll work just as well as a solid axle, at least in terms of wheel travel/articulation. I think it's a unique idea that could save some cash and make a capable trail rig.

For those who haven't done so, check out the write-up Dustin posted above, I thought it was very interesting.

Is your camber problem the wheels sitting like this- / - \ ?

You could try putting some coilspacers/shims under the bottom spring perches that will bring it up more like | - | .

I've found it helpful (necessary) to roll the truck back n forth 10-20 feet to settle the suspension to ride height after setting it back down.
Then check the toe setting.

FUNNY SHIT

I posted a topic just like this about a year ago, and everyone thought i was full of shit, and it was the dumbest thing...


HERE'S THE ORIGIONAL (http://hometown.aol.com/jzettel73/TTB_Conversion.html)

after clicking the link under the ranger pic, and reading the thread... the last post is someone asking about running 2 granny lows. woul'dnt you just mate em up and run the rear in 3rd(1 to 1) till you needed a lower gear??
shon
for what it's worth i also applaud the innovators. the first person to put a 5.0 or 350 in a jeep probably got rippied on also.

Originally posted by SMART ASS
FUNNY SHIT

I posted a topic just like this about a year ago, and everyone thought i was full of shit, and it was the dumbest thing...


HERE'S THE ORIGIONAL (http://hometown.aol.com/jzettel73/TTB_Conversion.html)
Thats a good article. While the coil TTB works well, I have always thought the leaf sprung version was a bit odd. All the axle torque goes to one leaf spring:eek: (driverside) Then, as leafs tend to settle, it wouldn't do anything to help keep the camber consistent.

I don't think its dumb ;)

Originally posted by SMART ASS
FUNNY SHIT

I posted a topic just like this about a year ago, and everyone thought i was full of shit, and it was the dumbest thing...


HERE'S THE ORIGIONAL (http://hometown.aol.com/jzettel73/TTB_Conversion.html)

Look above, I posted the same link first :rolleyes:

I don't think it's a stupid thing to do provided that the beams are properly braced and welded together.

I think the idea is fine for a quick fix but what about when it breaks? I wouldn't think it would be as strong as a true solid. You have the extra joint to break and it doesn't serve a purpose anymore. I could see doing it until you can afford to upgrade but to plan on keeping it I think would be a hassle.

Originally posted by Dustball
Here's the write-up-

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/jzettel73/TTB_Conversion.html

.

Dude thats some hoaky shit, I would not even want to load that on a trailer

Me either. And the cost.....

How about this?

HP 44---$100 Install in 1 weekend with about $200 more in misc. stuff.

Result..It's done right the first time.

Originally posted by FearMe
Me either. And the cost.....

How about this?

HP 44---$100 Install in 1 weekend with about $200 more in misc. stuff.

Result..It's done right the first time.

Don't forget selling your old junk

Other than by the pound at the junk yard, are those that would actually pay money for TTB stuff?

Originally posted by FearMe
Other than by the pound at the junk yard, are those that would actually pay money for TTB stuff?

LOL i think we sold my buddies axle and steering, for cheap, other then that it made that clanking sound as it hit the dumpster.

I got an TTB idea, how about, just unbolting the piviot brackets, and tie the 2 together with a 5/8s bolt, that way you won't even have to weld :D

Kinda like a wristed ttb? You can unpin it when you want to cruise the malls. How about an extended wristed ttb? Mark, will they ever learn?:rolleyes:

ok, I get the point, bad idea. It was just a thought. Seriously though, if I could do the SAS for $300 as someone listed above I would do it, but I am not quite sure where you get $300 to do this, everything I've seen to do it is about $1200 or more depending on how much you get the axle for and the trac bar, and new bearings and brake pads, brake lines, coil towers, steering parts if needed, gears and labor to set up the gears would cost $500, so once again I am not seeing a total of $300 for this project.

what gears are you running now? it is easy to find hp44's with 3.50,3.73,4.10 . i would almost bet if you left your yard and drove around for about 1/2 an hour you find atleast 6 broke down 4x4 fords in peoples back yards. that's how i find most of my parts. the worst that will happen when you ask if they want to sell it is , no. you can use your coils during thew set-up and buy other parts as you need em. actually i believe alot of the outer parts are interchangable. as well as the gears. the 1200 is for kits. if you find the axle on a complete rig you have the swap kit.
shon

Originally posted by broncoman1
ok, I get the point, bad idea. It was just a thought. Seriously though, if I could do the SAS for $300 as someone listed above I would do it, but I am not quite sure where you get $300 to do this, everything I've seen to do it is about $1200 or more depending on how much you get the axle for and the trac bar, and new bearings and brake pads, brake lines, coil towers, steering parts if needed, gears and labor to set up the gears would cost $500, so once again I am not seeing a total of $300 for this project.

Learn to scrounge. Learn to scrounge. Learn to scrounge. There are two ways to build your 4x4. Spend money or learn to scrounge and do it yourself. End result is the same. Hit the wrecking yards, swap meets, buddies friends garage, 'Buy-n-Sell' papers, alley's and side yards. The parts are there if you want to get creative. If your in a hurry ($$) it will cost. If you want good parts cheap spend time not money.
I just bought a very good running 78 F150 4x4 for $400. I could take the parts for the conversion and sell what's left for more than that. I've never paid over $100 for a HP 44 with gears and axles. Springs are free, maybe not the cool ones you may want down the road but ones that will work till you get the money, or can scrounge better ones. You don't need new stuff, you need good servicable used stuff and the knowledge to make it work. Elbow grease is free and a can of good spray paint is $2. Use the spring towers you have.
Your wondering where to get $300-$500 to do it right the first time? For one month get a job at a 7-11 nights. Save both paychecks and you'll net about a grand.