Hello,

I am planning my next build and I really would prefer to use the 18 case. Yes, I am well aware of the other options out there:D

Here is the deal though. It is in a Willys Wagon, and I will be running a 6-cyl engine etc. I think it will be fine for what I will do with the wagon alone.

However, once in a while I may do some local towing. Towing a car to the shop, or hauling a few snowmobiles.

Not long distance, certainly with a car in tow. But I dont want to limit myself if I need it to haul another junk Jeep home etc.

What are some examples of 18 case breakage etc. that you have experienced?

Thoughts, ideas?

I would think it should be fine. I managed to snap both output shafts off mine one day but that had a lot to do with bouncing full throttle up a hill with 35's.

Generally I am pretty easy on the go pedal. I don't mind maintaining it either. I would hate to run the thing and have huge issues.

I think there are some upgrades out there. I know about the intermediate shaft. I think there were some ideas on bracing them as well.

Anyone else want to weigh in?

ROB

Generally I am pretty easy on the go pedal. I don't mind maintaining it either. I would hate to run the thing and have huge issues.

I think there are some upgrades out there. I know about the intermediate shaft. I think there were some ideas on bracing them as well.

Anyone else want to weigh in?

ROB

Tri county gear used to make a girdle for the D18, no idea if they still do. I never managed to break a case, and in the end my CJ was running 37" Iroks on H1 rims.

are you refering to the spicer 18? if so it's a gear driven case and is considered pretty strong.

like was previously posted, the 10 spline outputs like to snap sometimes

OK. Time to get a bit long winded here......not too bad.

Here are the three worst case scenarios of my intended use.

Towing into my house (really crappy, muddy driveway) a car and trailer combo of about 5000 lbs, plus the wagon itself at 45-4800.

Driving to Alaska at 55MPH for 3-4 days at a time-mild off road while there.

Running the Rubicon/Moab and driving to them and back under my own power.

Realistically, I may tow with it once or twice a year, maybe once in winter if that.

Alaska may or may not happen.

Moab / Rubicon probably could.

Here is the other thing........

Pro Dana 18:

I have 5-6 of them
I have 4-5 matching rears that are offset
I like the axles being in line with each other
I have a Dana 44 front that matches on hand and other parts on hand

Con Dana 18:

Adaptor cost-$450ish
Outputs going snap in rural Utah or Alaska???

Pro 205 - Ford style attached to my engine and trans already

All together an matched
Already own it, and it is factory parts
I do own two centered 44 rears out of late 80's Wagoneers-new brakes etc. on one.

Con 205:

Heavy pig
Need to get a drivers drop 44 front-Have access to one for $200
Can't have axles in line-I liked that concept.

In my heart, I think the 205 would be safer. It may end up slightly cheaper, although the costs are likely about a wash by the time I don't buy another front, and I sell the 205.

I really would like the 18 case. I am not much of a throttle jocky, but when needed I would hate to tear things up if I have to stab the gas.

FWIW- I will be running 35's most of the time with 38's in the winter and for deep snow only.

Thanks, ROB

If you have enough wheel base, you can run a centered Tcase with an offset axle. I had about a 6" horizontal offset in my stretched CJ D18 with a D60 rear. Rear driveshaft was a CV shaft about 30" long.

For your purposes, I'd step up to something stronger than a D18.

Here is what I am thinking maybe a better overall combo for me.

300 straight 6 Ford, NP435/T-18, and the 205. These are out of the same truck.

And then my centered 44 rear, and the 86-88 drivers side front.

I think I could get around OK with that, and if I had to hammer on it once in awhile I would be fine.

That should be a better combo for strength I would think.

I really like the 18, but not well enough to walk off the 'con for it!

ROB

X2 for the 205 for more safety. I'm really fond of the lil 18 also, and if you werent towing it would make it a lil bit better, but for a 5000# rig and alot of highway driving it is still a pretty bad choice since the intermediate gear would always be under a heavy load. The 18 would be better only for a vehicle not destined to be driven a lot ie just short fishing trips and offroad trails, where as the 205 wont even sweat with the heaviest work you may put this rig through. The difference in crawl ratio is kinda a bummer, but strength would never be an issue as to getting the rig back home under its own power.

I have a question. Why can you take a passenger side drop and just switch the tubes. Making it a drivers side drop. I know its work, but I believe it can be done.

I have a question. Why can you take a passenger side drop and just switch the tubes. Making it a drivers side drop. I know its work, but I believe it can be done.


You can, but they don't exactly fall out - you need a very large press to do it.

So now the question is do I narrow the HP 44 and run it or get the 86-87?????

That isn't really a question, just thinking outloud.

Thank you for the help. I have been at this for about 20 years and built about 10 4x4's in that time frame. But the 18 case hasn't been used by me since the first build many years ago.

Have a great day.

ROB