Hello All,



New Guy here with a few quick questions:


First off, a little info:

I have a 92 jeep wrangler, 6cyl 5 spd. All stock except some 30" tires. I use this to get to and from work each day 10-15 Mi round trip, the occasional longer trip to the beach....and once a year trip to Oh from Ma (about 10-11 hrs)

Jeep runs like a charm, doesn't miss a beat at all.


I've been dipping my feet in the puddle per se just to get them wet with some fun but very minor off roading. I'd like to have a little more But nothing to crazy with this jeep.

So Here I start:

Lift.......I'm looking at the BDS 4.5kit (the 3.5 kit meets my needs but the 4.5 makes more economical sense with what it offers)

Tires, looking to have a 2nd set of 33 X 12.50

Now, I've done plenty of work on my own cars in relation to going fast (70 cutlass supreme ) but not to knowledgeable with lifting them.

Are their any other things I need/should be doing during the install along with the lift kit? Steering? Brakes? anything else?

You know...those over looked things that create problems

Other is the SYE Kit and driveshafts, But, First I have a question that goes along with them. I would like to get a quality kit from tom woods, with everything custom made to fit my application. So After I get everything installed (lift kit) I need to make my measurements and place the order for the SYE and CV shafts. In the mean time, Am I SOL on using my jeep for my everyday commute? or will the stock setup be okay as long as I dont do anything crazy?


And after all of this........Will I still be able to make my big trip each year with no problems (as long as I maintain the vehicle properly as usual ) (I do tow a BBQ setup thats class 2 in weight)


Thank you for your time.
-Mike.

P.S the above mentioned setup is as far as I'm going to take this jeep, As time goes by and if the bug bites me more, I'll buy another to take it more extreme.

Order the lift kit, get the sye combo w/driveshaft from rustysoffroad or somethin similar and learn. The stuff your wantin to do really isnt that complicated as long as you can read instructions.

I'm a TJ guy, not a YJ guy so I haven't followed all the YJ lifts. However, I have used some BDS stuff and have been very pleased with their "You break it, we replace it" warranty. Keep in mind that the more you mod a Jeep for offroad, the less street pavement friendly it gets..... to a point. Pulling anything with a lift Jeep at highway speeds **MAYBE** an issue. Lots of guys can do it, others can't. I just wanted you to know this may or may not be an issue for you to deal with. You need to research, research before spending $$. If you are not a member of a 4x4 Club in your area, you need to be. If you are not wheel-n with a group that knows what they are doing offroad, you need to find such a group and learn, learn, learn.

When you get ready to do the SYE, call Tom Woods Company. I suspect that they have dealt with just about every setup known to man and can fix you up over the phone. If not, you will install the lift and the SYE, then take your measurements for the driveshaft.

When you go to 33 inch tires, you will need aftermarket wheels with 3.75 - 4.0 inches of back spacing. You can get fancy chrome wheels, but if you are going to wheel this Jeep, Chrome sucks and won't last. Instead, a nice steel wheel for about $45.00 will be perfect.

If you have not secured a copy of the "Build Sheet" for your Jeep, you need to do so. It is free. PM me and I'll hunt up the link.

I suspect that your Jeep has 3:07 gears. When you add the 33 inch tires, you will lose 5th gear totally. This normally isn't a problem for anyone, except you take a couple long highway trips and pull a BBQ to boot. This maybe a problem (lack of power do to big tires, suck ass gear ratio). You could spend more $$ and change the gear ratio in both your axles. HOWEVER, I suspect that you have a Dana 35 (D35) for a rear axle. This axle is JUNK and not worth spending a penny on. Since you are doing lift and SYE, you might want to add a 8.8 swap to your list. The desireable 8.8 is from a 1996 or newer Ford Explorer. Not only will you get a better axle, you will get rear disc brakes which you will enjoy with those bigger tires and while pulling the BBQ. 8.8 swap isn't a big deal for a YJ because it is leaf sprung to leaf sprung vehicle. TJ guys have to convert the 8.8 to coil springs.

Or you can get a Crown Vic 8.8 1996 with the LS Tag( limited slip) and disk brakes. Think beat up police special.:D If your rear end center is round and tiny oval it is a D-35. If its kind of like diamond shaped sitting on its side its a D-44 no replacement needed.

Thanks Guys!



I'll look into the 8.8 swap, all ready looking at a 44 for the front.


"You can get fancy chrome wheels"


Theirs no way i'll put chrome on this thing. The paint is a great faded sun burnt red and black trim...and it looks great that way...you know...jeepish.


After talking with the misses, were going to upgrade the tow system on the new explorer to class 2 and that solves needing the jeep for long distances.


You guys have been a great help, Thank you
-Mike

For a front bolt in 44, find a front axle from a 1981 and newer FSJ Wagon or truck. Stay away from the CAD ones. I still have my front 44 from my first swap sitten in the corner of my garage.

Thanks Guys!



I'll look into the 8.8 swap, all ready looking at a 44 for the front.


"You can get fancy chrome wheels"


Theirs no way i'll put chrome on this thing. The paint is a great faded sun burnt red and black trim...and it looks great that way...you know...jeepish.


After talking with the misses, were going to upgrade the tow system on the new explorer to class 2 and that solves needing the jeep for long distances.


You guys have been a great help, Thank you
-Mike

Your front axle should be a Dana 30........ with 33 inch tires, the D30 should do just fine unless you want to really get stupid with the skinny pedal. :eek:
Usually, if you have issues with the D30 (front axle) it is the axle shafts that cause the issue and these can be upgraded easily.

This is my personal opinion and nothing more, I would never have a limited slip for offroad. If you aren't going to make the long drives in the YJ, get an open 8.8 and later on when you are ready, add a lunchbox locker like an Aussie.

BTW, do a search for 8.8 YJ swap....... bone yard 8.8's are only a couple hundred dollars (little more, or little less) depending upon where you live. Do swap before you order the driveshaft.

Regarding the 8.8, Befor the install would take place, the LSD would be swapped out for a true locker.


So regarding the D30 strength, How far could I push it before she went?With proper axles n upgrades.


As far as bolting in an FSJ 44, granted it may bolt right in, But how well does it work with the T-case? Same side Diff? or will I need to swap out to a 300 with like the scout 2 D44 swap.

And I cant recall, but doesn't the FSJ 44 in question come with 6 lug axels? or am I mistaken?


-Mike

Regarding the 8.8, Befor the install would take place, the LSD would be swapped out for a true locker.


So regarding the D30 strength, How far could I push it before she went?With proper axles n upgrades.


As far as bolting in an FSJ 44, granted it may bolt right in, But how well does it work with the T-case? Same side Diff? or will I need to swap out to a 300 with like the scout 2 D44 swap.

And I cant recall, but doesn't the FSJ 44 in question come with 6 lug axels? or am I mistaken?


-Mike

The FSJ 44 is a 6 lug and is about the same size but I don't think its a direct bolt in swap, if its not you will need new spring perches and shock mounts, which are easily done by a local fab shop or you can buy them and weld em up yourself. Do some research to find out which FSJ 44s are drivers drop and which are pass. drop because I do not have the info with me right now to give you exact #'s. To deal with the 6lug problem you can adapt the 8.8 rear to 6 lug but you will most likely be the only one wheeling with a 6 lug 8.8 so no spare shafts from friends.

The easiest way to go about this whole business is keep the 30 front for your mild wheeling, because it should hold up to somewhere around the 35" tire mark. just find a YJ dana 30 from a 4cyl and it will have 4.10 gearing with matches close enough to an 8.8s 4.11 gearing (or vice versa i forget)

So end the end your basically looking at 8.8, SYE, possible regear, drive shafts, lift kit, rims, tires, and some misc. other things I'm probably forgetting

Hey Again Gang!,



With no intentions of being a PiTa (but I am). I'm still tracking down parts BUT I found A guy local to me who is selling a complete dana 44 and 60 from a 80 ram full width. He's looking to get 300$ for the set.

Any work that requires welding I'm having a shop do anywho, so a little extra work isint an issue, Other than some extra cutting/welding and a dana 300 swap for the front 44, Is their any foreseeable reason this is a bad road to head down? (Yeah I know....this is snowballing quick....but screw it...I'm having fun and thats what its all about)

I would like to retain some DD ability (50mi tops on highway)


Thanks again all
-Mike

Hey Again Gang!,



With no intentions of being a PiTa (but I am). I'm still tracking down parts BUT I found A guy local to me who is selling a complete dana 44 and 60 from a 80 ram full width. He's looking to get 300$ for the set.

Any work that requires welding I'm having a shop do anywho, so a little extra work isint an issue, Other than some extra cutting/welding and a dana 300 swap for the front 44, Is their any foreseeable reason this is a bad road to head down? (Yeah I know....this is snowballing quick....but screw it...I'm having fun and thats what its all about)

I would like to retain some DD ability (50mi tops on highway)


Thanks again all
-Mike

In the end it is YOUR jeep you are the one PAYING for everything.
Now for gearing as a daily driver what size tires are you going to run?
I got 35" tires 4:11 gearing and 80 MPH is easy. 6 cyl. & 5 spd.

There are gearing calculators that if you ask someone will post up.

I suspect that your Jeep has 3:07 gears. When you add the 33 inch tires, you will lose 5th gear totally. This normally isn't a problem for anyone, except you take a couple long highway trips and pull a BBQ to boot. This maybe a problem (lack of power do to big tires, suck ass gear ratio). You could spend more $$ and change the gear ratio in both your axles. HOWEVER, I suspect that you have a Dana 35 (D35) for a rear axle. This axle is JUNK and not worth spending a penny on. Since you are doing lift and SYE, you might want to add a 8.8 swap to your list. The desireable 8.8 is from a 1996 or newer Ford Explorer. Not only will you get a better axle, you will get rear disc brakes which you will enjoy with those bigger tires and while pulling the BBQ. 8.8 swap isn't a big deal for a YJ because it is leaf sprung to leaf sprung vehicle. TJ guys have to convert the 8.8 to coil springs.

I agree whole heartedly with the axle swap. As someone who a year ago had never done any of this, I was intimidated by this but it is honestly no more work to get a vastly superior axle. You can find the 8.8 in any junkyard. Pull a Part wants about $150 for a complete axle. Ford Explorers are fairly common.



The #1 requirement for my build was it had to remain a Daily-Driver. I routinely drive mine 65-70 MPH on the freeway and do not have any problems. Granted, it doesn't exactly ride like my Saab, but pretty nice manners all in all. I am on 35's, and I imagine 33's would feel that much more comfortable.If you chose to re-gear, 4.10 or so would be about right. I am 4.88 and it feels perfect to me.

I appreciate everyone helping the new guy:smokin:


Looks like i'm set to go, after spending an hour on the phone with a number of junk yards I was able to track down a rear out of a 96 with discs for 200$ delivered (I.E the put it in my truck) and a Dana 44 from an 81 narrowtrack Cherokee for 300$


Gonna go grab the 8.8 today and the D44 next Saturday ( the D44 is a bit of a drive 2+-Hrs and their hours suck)

I appreciate everyone helping the new guy:smokin:


Looks like i'm set to go, after spending an hour on the phone with a number of junk yards I was able to track down a rear out of a 96 with discs for 200$ delivered (I.E the put it in my truck) and a Dana 44 from an 81 narrowtrack Cherokee for 300$


Gonna go grab the 8.8 today and the D44 next Saturday ( the D44 is a bit of a drive 2+-Hrs and their hours suck)

I think you will be pleased with the performance of the rig you are building. Just keep in mind that normally the skills of the driver go hand in hand with the abilities of the rig as mods are normally done over a slower period of time and the driver wheels his/her rig as a stocker and then both the driver and rig advance from there. In your case, the rig is being built almost over night, yet the driver skills haven't changed. Nothing to worry about too much, just be aware of this and let your skills as a driver advance before you go out on the trails and really try to test the abilities of your rig.

I think you will be pleased with the performance of the rig you are building. Just keep in mind that normally the skills of the driver go hand in hand with the abilities of the rig as mods are normally done over a slower period of time and the driver wheels his/her rig as a stocker and then both the driver and rig advance from there. In your case, the rig is being built almost over night, yet the driver skills haven't changed. Nothing to worry about too much, just be aware of this and let your skills as a driver advance before you go out on the trails and really try to test the abilities of your rig.

Yup, I know exactly what your talking about. When I first started going off road, heck just driving the jeep in general, I found my self shifting fast and hard as if it was my cutty (This actually has to do more with that fact that I'm driving stick with only 1 hand) So I been "watching" myself very closely on trails with an on board camera, trying spot spot any no no's i'm doing with out knowing it.


My peddle work needs some improvement on very steep inclines and I have a tendency to over work a given peddle as I'm being tossed around (Tho I suspect that this will improve *somewhat* when the new seats get here with the 5 point harnesses )


-Mike

I'm a YJ guy.

First off, welcome to the sickness. :laughing:

Secondly decide RIGHT NOW how large a tire you want to run. If you want to run anything larger then a 35" tire then you WILL need larger axles. I would stay away from full axles like the ones you were talking about buying.

4.5" SUA kits are too stiff and unneccessary. Escecially for a 33" tire. Going high on lift is old school thinking, its stuff the largest tire with the least amount of lift now. Theres a guy that just did 37" tires on 2" of lift in another thread here.

For 33" you want to run a 2.5-3.5" lift (preferably 2.5) it will be cheaper then the 4.5 lift, easier to install, you won't need a SYE or CV driveshaft, new brake lines etc etc. The 2.5 will flex better, drive better on the road, and with a 100 dollar set of TJ flares you will clear 33"s without rubbing all day long. Then pick yourself up a nice junkyard 8.8. Get a couple Aussie lockers for 200 bucks each for both your axles and you have the start of one nice, capable trail rig.

Hey just read your post and have to say been there done that it sucks. If you are EVER going to drive this thing ten hours even one time I'd highly recommend not getting a big lift at all. I have a 92 exactly like yours and it was extremely nice to drive. I then did a 4.5" rubicon express extreme duty lift and an 8.8 rear with 4.10s and 33s. It was as fast or faster than stock, but it was so annoying to drive and sloppy I just couldn't handle it. Let me tell you right now, if you put anything bigger than a 2 inch lift on you are going to hate your life and your super nice jeep is going to steer and brake like shit. If you don't plan on doing any kind of ridiculous driving I would look into highlining the fenders and running 33s with no lift or 35s with a 2 inch lift like the old man emu. If you have not seen this check this out YouTube - AEV Web Promo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXmDsnxk-M0) these jeeps are on 37's with three inches of lift because they are highlined. People are doing this to yj's now too and they look to be a lot more capable than my jeep was!

Just my 2cents because you seem to enjoy your jeep on the road too. Lifts are old news these days eventually we will all be moving to lower safer jeeps that are just as crazy off road but that we can actually enjoy without the white nuckle experiences you will most likely have with a 4-5 inch SUA lift.

Hey just read your post and have to say been there done that it sucks. If you are EVER going to drive this thing ten hours even one time I'd highly recommend not getting a big lift at all. I have a 92 exactly like yours and it was extremely nice to drive. I then did a 4.5" rubicon express extreme duty lift and an 8.8 rear with 4.10s and 33s. It was as fast or faster than stock, but it was so annoying to drive and sloppy I just couldn't handle it. Let me tell you right now, if you put anything bigger than a 2 inch lift on you are going to hate your life and your super nice jeep is going to steer and brake like shit. If you don't plan on doing any kind of ridiculous driving I would look into highlining the fenders and running 33s with no lift or 35s with a 2 inch lift like the old man emu. If you have not seen this check this out YouTube - AEV Web Promo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXmDsnxk-M0) these jeeps are on 37's with three inches of lift because they are highlined. People are doing this to yj's now too and they look to be a lot more capable than my jeep was!

Just my 2cents because you seem to enjoy your jeep on the road too. Lifts are old news these days eventually we will all be moving to lower safer jeeps that are just as crazy off road but that we can actually enjoy without the white nuckle experiences you will most likely have with a 4-5 inch SUA lift.

While my current setup is 3.5" BDS SUA on my YJ I find it handles quite well, even with the 35's. Even going 75mph down the highway the steering and braking are fine. While I do agree with the 'keep it low and slow' mentality, I don't agree that you will necessarily 'hate your life' because you have a lift 2" or bigger. Mine was my DD for the past 6 years and 5 of them were since it was lifted. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

Take it for what it's worth but if I could start over again I would cut as much as possible, test fit tires and then choose how much of a lift I would need to clear the tires. Good luck with your build!

Hey just read your post and have to say been there done that it sucks. If you are EVER going to drive this thing ten hours even one time I'd highly recommend not getting a big lift at all. I have a 92 exactly like yours and it was extremely nice to drive. I then did a 4.5" rubicon express extreme duty lift and an 8.8 rear with 4.10s and 33s. It was as fast or faster than stock, but it was so annoying to drive and sloppy I just couldn't handle it. Let me tell you right now, if you put anything bigger than a 2 inch lift on you are going to hate your life and your super nice jeep is going to steer and brake like shit. If you don't plan on doing any kind of ridiculous driving I would look into highlining the fenders and running 33s with no lift or 35s with a 2 inch lift like the old man emu. If you have not seen this check this out YouTube - AEV Web Promo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXmDsnxk-M0) these jeeps are on 37's with three inches of lift because they are highlined. People are doing this to yj's now too and they look to be a lot more capable than my jeep was!

Just my 2cents because you seem to enjoy your jeep on the road too. Lifts are old news these days eventually we will all be moving to lower safer jeeps that are just as crazy off road but that we can actually enjoy without the white nuckle experiences you will most likely have with a 4-5 inch SUA lift.

Maybe you should check your Steering stabilizer and or your joints up front mine is Just fine with a Rubicon Express 4.5 Extreme Duty lift. Mine is fine I also got Old man Emu shocks for it. I drive mine on the Hi way every single day. What did you torque your Shackle bolts to?

Got 8.8, changed up all the brakes, got the new m.o.r.e spring and shock mounts welded in place and added a truss.


I've been pondering going with the BDS 2.5 kit instead of the 3.5 and just doing a bit more trimming on the rear fenders to fit the 33 x 12.5's in (installed tube fenders on the front), I'll just install/comp corners with guards.

Question being, with a 2.5 lift I can still retain to stock drive shafts, (means I can upgrade a little later than immediately) BUT would I need to do so any ways because of the 8.8? or with the spicer yoke adapter, will everything work okay ?



I.E do I spend the 1k now to replace my seats (which is needed badly get the SYE and new shafts next month or so) or do I still drop it on the SYE and shafts now?


-Mike

You should be fine running the 2.5" lift and some MORE 5/8" boomerang shackles and stuff the 33's in there that way. Plenty of guys have done this.

I used my front stock shaft with my 3.5" lift so I'm sure you will be ok for now with the front. As far as the rear goes, I would just get the SYE and driveshaft done up now and just get that out of the way. While a SYE isn't needed with a 2.5" lift it makes the rear driveline happier. Plus if you kept your rear shaft and didn't do the SYE, you would probably need to shorten the rear shaft anyways. With that in mind, I would just do the SYE and rear shaft off the bat that way you have it and it's done right. Then you won't be wasting money on shortening your current rear shaft when you will just turn around and buy a better driveshaft a few months from now.

As far as the seats go, if you can only get the drivers seat, just get that one for now and get the passenger seat later on if money's really tight. As far as what brand of seats to go with, I like PRP's but also Twisted Stitch deserves a look. I know PRP makes anything from a daily driver seat to a full out comp seat. If you don't see it there, give them a call and they will hook you up!

You should be fine running the 2.5" lift and some MORE 5/8" boomerang shackles and stuff the 33's in there that way. Plenty of guys have done this.

I used my front stock shaft with my 3.5" lift so I'm sure you will be ok for now with the front. As far as the rear goes, I would just get the SYE and driveshaft done up now and just get that out of the way. While a SYE isn't needed with a 2.5" lift it makes the rear driveline happier. Plus if you kept your rear shaft and didn't do the SYE, you would probably need to shorten the rear shaft anyways. With that in mind, I would just do the SYE and rear shaft off the bat that way you have it and it's done right. Then you won't be wasting money on shortening your current rear shaft when you will just turn around and buy a better driveshaft a few months from now.

As far as the seats go, if you can only get the drivers seat, just get that one for now and get the passenger seat later on if money's really tight. As far as what brand of seats to go with, I like PRP's but also Twisted Stitch deserves a look. I know PRP makes anything from a daily driver seat to a full out comp seat. If you don't see it there, give them a call and they will hook you up!

I agree for the most part. I would only like the differ on one point and thats the SYE. Granted it is good advice to upgrade this, you can do it later on down the road, I wouldn't tie your jeep up just for the SYE. Your stock shafts should work reguardless. Also CJ style lap belts are cheap and plentiful and easy to install. If anything just to keep you legal when the Popo try to write you up for a 100 dollar seatbelt ticket (fines have gone up)

I agree. I just didn't want to see him waste money modifying his current rear shaft if only 6 months later he will replace it when he does the SYE. Kind of wasting money in the long run if you will. That was the only reason I was mentioning to go with the SYE but I agree with The Black Sheep, don't let that be the only thing to hold you up.

I had a friend with a YJ who did a 4" SUA lift, hated it, and traded it to a guy for his stock springs and enough cash to buy the brackets to go SOA. He greatly preferred it. Stock springs so he kept the stock ride for the most part, and they were flatter and softer so he had good flex too.

If anything just to keep you legal when the Popo try to write you up for a 100 dollar seatbelt ticket (fines have gone up)



Thanks for the help guys and they cant write me up for a ticket for seat belts or at least...they haven't been able to....I'm missing my right arm (forearm) and when driving a standard, a seat belt impedes my ability to operate the vehicle safely. Haven t had to pay a single ticket yet (No one has dared to question it....tho I don't really mind:grinpimp: )


Milk it if ya got it:flipoff2::evil:

Thanks for the help guys and they cant write me up for a ticket for seat belts or at least...they haven't been able to....I'm missing my right arm (forearm) and when driving a standard, a seat belt impedes my ability to operate the vehicle safely. Haven t had to pay a single ticket yet (No one has dared to question it....tho I don't really mind:grinpimp: )


Milk it if ya got it:flipoff2::evil:

Well that fucking sucks :laughing:. A lap belt will keep you inside the vehicle at least incase you lose control for whatever reason? Better to be safe then sorry. Hey props to you for finding a way to keep wheeling....god damn. :beer:

Well that fucking sucks :laughing:. A lap belt will keep you inside the vehicle at least incase you lose control for whatever reason? Better to be safe then sorry. Hey props to you for finding a way to keep wheeling....god damn. :beer:

Shit you kidding? Having this thing is the best thing since sliced bread.......1 less body part to keep track of:grinpimp: And....if your interested.....its an easy conversion:eek::D

That is fucking awesome you don't let anything stop you!!! Cheers to you my friend! :beer:

I had them torqued to around 100. Stabalizer was brand new. I had a 2004 tj with coil suspension and 20k miles with a RE 4.5 and its steering sucked too. I'm not saying it was dangerous but it was FAR from comfortable on the highway and 79 between Morgantown WV and Pittsburgh PA is very windy, which the big lift did not help with either I am sure.

I'm not saying you can't have a great steering lifted jeep, just letting you know that a lift brings out anything in a 92 steering that is sub par.

A kit like the 1 ton steering would probably fix all this for $300 but I just decided to go the home brew highline route because of the simplicity, safety, and comfort a lower, less modified suspension offers.

I had them torqued to around 100. Stabalizer was brand new. I had a 2004 tj with coil suspension and 20k miles with a RE 4.5 and its steering sucked too. I'm not saying it was dangerous but it was FAR from comfortable on the highway and 79 between Morgantown WV and Pittsburgh PA is very windy, which the big lift did not help with either I am sure.

I'm not saying you can't have a great steering lifted jeep, just letting you know that a lift brings out anything in a 92 steering that is sub par.

A kit like the 1 ton steering would probably fix all this for $300 but I just decided to go the home brew highline route because of the simplicity, safety, and comfort a lower, less modified suspension offers.

You're telling me that you had your shackle bolts torqued to 100 ft/lbs?!:eek: No wonder it handled like crap! My MORE's are only torqued to 30 ft/lbs for the end bolts and 55 ft/lbs for the center bolt. Loosen those babies up!!!

I've had my rig up to 80 mph comfortably and didn't feel unsafe one bit.

You're telling me that you had your shackle bolts torqued to 100 ft/lbs?!:eek: No wonder it handled like crap! My MORE's are only torqued to 30 ft/lbs for the end bolts and 55 ft/lbs for the center bolt. Loosen those babies up!!!

I've had my rig up to 80 mph comfortably and didn't feel unsafe one bit.

I just grease the bolts, take two wrenches and torque them down until It take some good effort to turn the bolt freely with just one wrench. 100 ft lbs is crazy. and probably why it rode like shit LOL.

I'm probably gonna burn in hell for this, but how the fuck did you (blakis84) torque a nut and bolt down to 100 ft lbs with one hand/arm????? I mean unless you look like this.....:flipoff2: God damn. I'm impressed and humbled.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/7153/notrightz.jpg (http://img12.imageshack.us/my.php?image=notrightz.jpg)

I had them torqued to around 100. Stabalizer was brand new. I had a 2004 tj with coil suspension and 20k miles with a RE 4.5 and its steering sucked too. I'm not saying it was dangerous but it was FAR from comfortable on the highway and 79 between Morgantown WV and Pittsburgh PA is very windy, which the big lift did not help with either I am sure.

I'm not saying you can't have a great steering lifted jeep, just letting you know that a lift brings out anything in a 92 steering that is sub par.

A kit like the 1 ton steering would probably fix all this for $300 but I just decided to go the home brew highline route because of the simplicity, safety, and comfort a lower, less modified suspension offers.


Torque the shackle bolts on a Rubicon express to 65 ft pounds no more and Black sheep wrong guy, BUT 100 ft pounds ain't shit to torque.
I'd let the wrench rest against something and torque it.

Try torquing the final drive mounting bolts for a D8N they are 465 foot pounds 48 times.
If I lost an arm I may have to pus out and install an Automatic transmission.:D

Well being the official 1 armed guy in the thread:homer: 100lbs is a walk in the park....but wayyyyyy to much, I just looked over the RE install kit torque specs and I don't see anything that high

Torque the shackle bolts on a Rubicon express to 65 ft pounds no more and Black sheep wrong guy, BUT 100 ft pounds ain't shit to torque.
I'd let the wrench rest against something and torque it.

Try torquing the final drive mounting bolts for a D8N they are 465 foot pounds 48 times.
If I lost an arm I may have to pus out and install an Automatic transmission.:D

I bet the way I described on how to do it brings you really really close to spec. You don't think a shop pulls out a torque wrench to torque those bolts down do you? As long as the bolts are snug, sucking up all side movement allowable by the shackles on the bushing an still being able to move when the suspension cycles then its good. I only have to check my shackles once a year doing it this way. Takes two 3/4" wrenches, and best part is if you lose a shackle bolt to a rock on the trail you can always get it back to safe working condition.

I know 100 ft/lbs isn't a lot of torque but for a shackle that is for damn sure!

Hey just read your post and have to say been there done that it sucks. If you are EVER going to drive this thing ten hours even one time I'd highly recommend not getting a big lift at all. I have a 92 exactly like yours and it was extremely nice to drive. I then did a 4.5" rubicon express extreme duty lift and an 8.8 rear with 4.10s and 33s. It was as fast or faster than stock, but it was so annoying to drive and sloppy I just couldn't handle it. Let me tell you right now, if you put anything bigger than a 2 inch lift on you are going to hate your life and your super nice jeep is going to steer and brake like shit. If you don't plan on doing any kind of ridiculous driving I would look into highlining the fenders and running 33s with no lift or 35s with a 2 inch lift like the old man emu.

Just my 2cents because you seem to enjoy your jeep on the road too. Lifts are old news these days eventually we will all be moving to lower safer jeeps that are just as crazy off road but that we can actually enjoy without the white nuckle experiences you will most likely have with a 4-5 inch SUA lift.

Obviously less lift and more cutting makes for more stability (see the JP article where they are putting 40's on a stock suspension for an extreme example).

However, I routinely highway drive my YJ and drive on windy Tennessee back roads as well. I drove 100 miles from Knoxville to Sparta this weekend, wheeled all day, and drove back home that night. I was doing 75 with the flow of traffic and not white knuckling at all. The full high-steer and the Waggy brakes work perfectly to turn and stop my 35's. The only change I plan on making to improve street driving is to swap an ARB into my rear diff in place of the Aussie lunchbox I have now. I am running a RE 4.5 kit with Rugged Ridge boomerangs, it doesn't knock my teeth out on potholes on the road and it flexes just fine on the trail. I didn't have much time in a lifted Jeep (but I did have 10+ years in a stock YJ), and I was really nervous about how it would handle on the road when I was done building. I shouldn't have wasted all of that time fretting, as I have been thrilled with my rig's streetability.

I _do_ agree that you don't need a 4"+ lift for 33s. You will be just fine on 33's with a medium lift and a little selective body work. I did need to monkey with driveshafts though. My front is the stock shaft, which we shortened and butt-welded. My rear is actually a Bronco CV shaft that I had professionally cut down, welded and balanced. I am also running an AA SYE kit.